The far red thread

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Nope, you get 100% far-red in the moment you switch the lights on. They need no warm up phase like T5 bulbs or far-red radiators. Indeed its a bit less when they getting warmer, at 55°C its around 6% less and at 85°C around 14% compared to 25°C when switched on. With 105°C Tc. you would get only around 80%!
Its the same like with all LEDs, 100% output within a few milliseconds and only 80-95% output depending on stabilized case temps.
Far reds must be diff startup than lm301bs, cuz i get measurable warmup effect on them...
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Far reds must be diff startup than lm301bs, cuz i get measurable warmup effect on them...

Strange..!? How long? Sure its not the meter that needs some time? In theory as soon as there is current flow and the semiconductor lits up it can only create the wavelength he's made for. If there was something like a warm-up and the radiation was slowly rising you would have to be able to see that in terms of power consumption. When you turn it on does consumption increase slowly or does it show full power immediately?

Try the following. Turn on all the light, including far-red, but cover the sensor with your hand, hold it under the lamp and take the hand away. I think it will take a while before you get stable measurements. If so, it's just a sensor latency.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Strange..!? How long? Sure its not the meter that needs some time? In theory as soon as there is current flow and the semiconductor lits up it can only create the wavelength he's made for. If there was something like a warm-up and the radiation was slowly rising you would have to be able to see that in terms of power consumption. When you turn it on does consumption increase slowly or does it show full power immediately?

Try the following. Turn on all the light, including far-red, but cover the sensor with your hand, hold it under the lamp and take the hand away. I think it will take a while before you get stable measurements. If so, it's just a sensor latency.
Thanks, always appreciate your comments...

It may be in my light controller or driver or something else, but ppfd on 288s goes higher after warmup. I’ll try to give some data on 288s and i’ll check the reds too when i get some time... got alot of balls in air right now, next items growwise are uva-b for current grow and lots of work on qb96s, which arrived today:
515A0C44-A2F8-4C43-8D60-5BA2FC4BED8F.jpeg

But, bottomline for me, 15mins at begin of lightsout has no visible stretch effect, so gonna give them that much...
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Thanks, always appreciate your comments...

It may be in my light controller or driver or something else, but ppfd on 288s goes higher after warmup. I’ll try to give some data on 288s and i’ll check the reds too when i get some time... got alot of balls in air right now, next items growwise are uva-b for current grow and lots of work on qb96s, which arrived today:
View attachment 4218021

But, bottomline for me, 15mins at begin if lightsout has no visible stretch effect, so gonna give them that much...
Nice little boards..
I'm always excited like a little kid when packages come with new LEDs ...
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4218230

View attachment 4218231

Holographic growing, get it too close and you waste the photons lighting up the bottom of your leaves
Ahh, now I see them finally..
These white diodes are like micro COBs like Osrams Duris S10. Some of Budmasters God fixtures use similar boards from Osram (white+deepred) but less watts and 8 or 9 boards per 400w fixture.
Plants seem to love the new light and look happy and healthy.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Nice little far-red boards but how can I set the driver board to lets say exact two minutes?
Do I have to measure the time with the stopwatch and play with the potentiometer until I get the on times I want or can I connect a display somewhere? Or has the poti something like feelable "positions"? And is a lil' case available? Something with clear acrylic lid should work.
The length of the far-red treatment is important and one need accurate timing to control stretch.
A timer poti without scale seems a bit awkward to me .. Maybe with a few dip switches(like used on LCM40) and exact 1-15 minute settings it would be a little easier to setup and costs would probably stay the same.
But for sure a nice little toy!
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Nice little far-red boards but how can I set the driver board to lets say exact two minutes?
Do I have to measure the time with the stopwatch and play with the potentiometer until I get the on times I want or can I connect a display somewhere? Or has the poti something like feelable "positions"? And is a lil' case available? Something with clear acrylic lid should work.
The length of the far-red treatment is important and one need accurate timing to control stretch.
A timer poti without scale seems a bit awkward to me .. Maybe with a few dip switches(like used on LCM40) and exact 1-15 minute settings it would be a little easier to setup and costs would probably stay the same.
But for sure a nice little toy!
But a strange number of diodes...
 
Nice little far-red boards but how can I set the driver board to lets say exact two minutes?
Do I have to measure the time with the stopwatch and play with the potentiometer until I get the on times I want or can I connect a display somewhere? Or has the poti something like feelable "positions"? And is a lil' case available? Something with clear acrylic lid should work.
The length of the far-red treatment is important and one need accurate timing to control stretch.
A timer poti without scale seems a bit awkward to me .. Maybe with a few dip switches(like used on LCM40) and exact 1-15 minute settings it would be a little easier to setup and costs would probably stay the same.
But for sure a nice little toy!
I have my flower initiator puck plugged onto a wemo!
great way to control these far red lights. I give them exactly 13 minutes when lights go off and have noticed zero stretch (I'm on week 5 of flower)
I also keep the Far red puck on while the lights are on for 12 hs for that Emerson effect.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
But a strange number of diodes...
Yeah, but at least they are mounted in a row and without useless lenses. One would probably need 6 or 8 of them for a 4x 4' area and use another driver + timer and not such a board. The light sensor thing is nice but they need a better way to set up on/off timings.

I have my flower initiator puck plugged onto a wemo!
great way to control these far red lights. I give them exactly 13 minutes when lights go off and have noticed zero stretch (I'm on week 5 of flower)
I also keep the Far red puck on while the lights are on for 12 hs for that Emerson effect.
Yeah, only a little far-red has already positive effects without getting unwanted stretch. Its a bit more like without but plants still look natural and in the end its only a few inches. When they get 30mins from lights off you would see much more stretch.
I once had a timer failure and the far-red trigger stays on for 5 or 6 days "and" nights...
SAS at the finest, lol.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Yeah, but at least they are mounted in a row and without useless lenses. One would probably need 6 or 8 of them for a 4x 4' area and use another driver + timer and not such a board. The light sensor thing is nice but they need a better way to set up on/off timings.



Yeah, only a little far-red has already positive effects without getting unwanted stretch. Its a bit more like without but plants still look natural and in the end its only a few inches. When they get 30mins from lights off you would see much more stretch.
I once had a timer failure and the far-red trigger stays on for 5 or 6 days "and" nights...
SAS at the finest, lol.
Yeah, the puck is definitely wrong diode layout!
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Hey guys

Last night, i installed reds on the frame
8 Osram square 660nm / 2 oslon ssl 150 730nm per 50cm strip drive by an hlg60h24a
Plants are 15 days from 12/12
I have not used them yet 8-)


Get those mothers goin...nice lookin fixture, man
 

Belko

Well-Known Member
Are you running both "color" LED at the same time? I thought, the 660nm was for wakeup and the 730 for sleep initiation.
There are a few things I would like to mention.

@420masterofdon
These 700mA far-red puks should have ~14-15μMol/s/m²(calculated with 40% efficiency). Thats ~40μMol/s in a 0,36m² tent(2x 2'). One need ~2000-4000μMol(not per s/m², just μMol) to put the girls into sleep mode so you need to run it only for 50-100 seconds to give them the amount of far-red they need. It works with the dose princip just like UV..

If you use far-red you'll ALWAYS get more stretch! Thats normal behavior! It depends on how much they get.
I usually use 2000μMol EoD treatment at the beginning(12/12h) and increase slowly to 4000-5000μMol until finish. When the stretch is done I also use it over the day for other beneficial effects(increased leaf temps, compensation between PS-I and PS-II, emerson effect). This way the additional stretch is pretty small and the plants finish only ~2-4' taller in the end.

White light already contains red and deepred wavelength so you should profit from emerson effect even without additional red/deepred diodes. For this reason many user have switched to CRI90+ because it has much more red and deep-red and twice as much far-red compared to CRI80. Even though CRI80 is more electrically efficient the better spectrum compensates for this and depending on the strain you are using you can get even better yields in less time if you use CRI90.
But remember, the emerson effect gets weaker with increased brightness. With 1500μMol/s/m² there is no improvement anymore. With only 400-500μMol/s/m² you'll see huge improvements.
This is how mother nature has created a way how plants get along well with less light.
But when you add more red/deepred wavelength you make your whole light more efficient and depending on the brightness level it also increase the emerson effect.
I've added a few science papers about red and far-red and a link to an interview with doc hernandez. I know, its a lot to read and the interview starts with UVB light but it's still worth watching it completely.

i will try EOD when i will be a little more experimented with LEDs

PPFD is already ~ 1000 in my 4x4 at 40cm without reds, effects should be less
I did not expect so much light ^^ I may have been with the UV first.
if the quality of the spectrum can improve the organoleptic qualities then I am already happy
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
i will try EOD when i will be a little more experimented with LEDs

PPFD is already ~ 1000 in my 4x4 at 40cm without reds, effects should be less
I did not expect so much light ^^ I may have been with the UV first.
if the quality of the spectrum can improve the organoleptic qualities then I am already happy
Yeah, good decision, bro! With LED its already a learning curve cuz you need different enviromental settings to keep VPD and temps in an optimal and healthy range. And you can grow huge trichome loaded plants even without UV and far-red. Its a kind of fine tuning and its better to know what you can expect without UV/FR before you start it.
 
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