The Greatest Show On Earth Presents The 16oz Party Cup Grow Off

Tiflis

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
Tifflis what you got?
Click to expand...
I used this for the competition
Screenshot_20181221-081100.jpg
I just got the 135 watt HLG kit
IMG_20190428_100021436.jpg
Hlg is much much brighter , hope it doesn't dim down overtime. Roleadro started out very bright and died down in about 2 weeks, but i will still have managed about 2oz dry from 4 small plants . That thing has already paid for itself multiple times over.

To answer your question, I probably had one of the worst lights, but with the addition of hlg kit, maybe I'm not in such a bad shape anymore.
 
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SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
I used this for the competition
View attachment 4326361
I just got the 135 watt HLG kit
View attachment 4326366
Hlg is much much brighter , hiph it doesn't dim down overtime. Roleadro started out very bright and died down in about 2 weeks, but i will still have managed about 2oz sry from 4 small plants . That thing has already paid for itself multiple times over
Click to expand...
Grab a welders mask, you probably lost 1/2 the leds on one chip if not at least a couple of the series strips. You Can Either Wire The Other Chip IN Parallel Off One Driver Instead Of 2 Like It Is Now OR You Can Bite Like A Dawg AND Win Some Votes. Love it when the phone goes into Dawg mode.
 
Thegermling

Thegermling

Well-Known Member
ith
Randomblame said:
But ey, 60g out of such a small bowl looks really hard to believe.
I've almost 3 times the volume of that in your bowl and it's already below 60g total. And you still have the lower half which adds up another 30g or so. So it get's even harder to believe.
Click to expand...
Im telling you man once you master coco you will see big weight numbers. Its not just that I even participated in telling you guys how the rockwool trick works.
I remember you saying you watered you coco mix (with hydroton?) 5 times a day. That was good advice BUT the more you treat coco like soil you get soil results. I watered my party cup every hour. If the root system is not big enough to handle that amount of water, you will stunt or drown your plant. Heres another trick though. You need to alternate full strength with half strength each time. The half strength acts like a leaching agent and pulling all other salts in the coco. I was feeding over 1000+ppm (700scale) and flushing with 300-500ppm on the same scale.
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
I used this for the competition
View attachment 4326361
I just got the 135 watt HLG kit
View attachment 4326366
Hlg is much much brighter , hope it doesn't dim down overtime. Roleadro started out very bright and died down in about 2 weeks, but i will still have managed about 2oz dry from 4 small plants . That thing has already paid for itself multiple times over.

To answer your question, I probably had one of the worst lights, but with the addition of hlg kit, maybe I'm not in such a bad shape anymore.
Click to expand...
Definitely not... That 288 is awesome!!!
 
Tiflis

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
Grab a welders mask, you probably lost 1/2 the leds on one chip if not at least a couple of the series strips. You Can Either Wire The Other Chip IN Parallel Off One Driver Instead Of 2 Like It Is Now OR You Can Bite Like A Dawg AND Win Some Votes. Love it when the phone goes into Dawg mode.
Click to expand...
Someone on here, can't remember who, suggested I replace those cobs with legit cobs, I remember he said it would be relatively easy, since the wiring can be used . I will definitely look into doing that at some point, that would give me another decent fixture. That and the hlg would rock my small tent which is like 2 by 3 or 1.5 by 3 ish
As always , you get what you pay for. I paid under 80$ for that Roleadro
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
Someone on here, can't remember who, suggested I replace those cobs with legit cobs, I remember he said it would be relatively easy, since the wiring can be used . I will definitely look into doing that at some point, that would give me another decent fixture. That and the hlg would rock my small tent which is like 2 by 3 or 1.5 by 3 ish
As always , you get what you pay for. I paid under 80$ for that Roleadro
Click to expand...

Hmm! 300w means what? 120w ar the wall?
There are probably two 50w COB's installed each running at 1,5A or so. You need to open the backside an show me what's inside. Its really pretty easy.
You could use any 36v COB like Vero18 or 29d, Cree CXB3070 or 3590's or Citizen 1212 or 1216. All this COB's should run with the build in driver solution.
Most of the time there is some data mentioned on the drivers at least voltage and current. Top brand COB's can handle the heat much better like those generic chips und they should last a few years without getting damaged. At least not if there is any kind of heat sink inside.
You could also use an HLG-driver if it fit's inside the housing to make it fully dimmable. You should get almost as much light like from the new board if you for instance use an HLG-120 or 150H-36B and run the two COB's in parallel.

If you have the needed parts together the whole job is done in an hour. You could also use exsisting switches and all that or we integrate a Sonoff wifi timer to control the light with an app on your smartphone.

2x Citizen 1216gen6 =38$ or less
1x Meanwell HLG-150H-36B = 45$
1x Sonoff single channel = 5$
1x Dimmer knob, either the 6$ rapidled dimmer or just a cheap B100k potentiometer(5pcs 3$).
(with 108k in the best case but no less than 100k, check that with a multimeter. In the worst case add a 10k resistor to the center pin. With the rapidled dimmer that's not needed cuz it works with 0/1-10v.)
You only need a screw driver, some thermal grease and a soldering iron to get the job done.
With new more powerful driver that still less the hundred bucks, without driver around 50$.
If you only change the COB's you get maybe 10w more because of the slightly higher COB voltage. These generic COB's have strings of 10 diodes, Citizen aso. use 12 chips in series.

If you need further help feel free to start a conversation. Pretty sure we can upgrade it easily and double its current output.


Thegermling said:
ith
Im telling you man once you master coco you will see big weight numbers. Its not just that I even participated in telling you guys how the rockwool trick works.
I remember you saying you watered you coco mix (with hydroton?) 5 times a day. That was good advice BUT the more you treat coco like soil you get soil results. I watered my party cup every hour. If the root system is not big enough to handle that amount of water, you will stunt or drown your plant. Heres another trick though. You need to alternate full strength with half strength each time. The half strength acts like a leaching agent and pulling all other salts in the coco. I was feeding over 1000+ppm (700scale) and flushing with 300-500ppm on the same scale.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know what you can get with hydro style that's the reason why I'm switching to coco. You can treat it like a hydro medium and get hydro results but you can still add organic stuff like kelp, humin acids, myco's aso. which helps to keep the root zone healthy. Many plants are grown in even smaller net pots and they reach huge dimensions.
And I'll not use perlite or clay granules in the future. Coco holds only 60% water compared to standard peat based potting soil(90%) and the clay granules has only caused issues. Even if coco is completely wet there is still enough air so I'll not use perlite anymore. If I need better drainage I'll just add coco fibers.
I usually use a wet - dry, wet - dry style and flush at least two to five times. Same wet-dry method I've used here just with the difference that I've created a certain amount of runoff each time. I really like how fast coco dries out. This allows more feedings. I believe from week 3 I've started to feed her more often and from end of the stretch the cup needed ~3h to dry out enough(upper half).
Thanks for the full strength - half strength tipp. Will try is for sure.
I've flushed her each 2 weeks with ~300ppm kelp, humidic acids, amino's, enzymes and MycorrMax to flush out excessive nutes and avoid salt build up while adding useful organic stuff. When I've flushed her I've waited with the next feeding until the cup was almost dried out. But not too dry .. I've added living fungji and bacteria and need them alive.
Only the 1st 2 weeks I had to fight with a too high PH(+7,1) because it was a cheap unbufferd coco brick and those clay granules were pre-fertilized which I have overseen completely. I've buffered the coco myself using calcium and magnesium oxyd, kelp and humidic acids but the ph run out of control and increased from 5 to above 7.. Probably too much organic stuff. The start could have been much better without these early issues.
So only pure pre-buffered good quality coco next round..
I know there is still a lot room for improvements but it was my first coco run ever and I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
I'm pretty sure I'll find out how to get the best results. We have a few interesting coco threads and with peeps like you I'll pretty fast know the secrets about coco. Have already a good quality pre-buffered and pre-innoculated 70l(20gal.) coco brick made from all 3 types of coco. So I only need to create (or win) a new pair of new lights..
 
Last edited:
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
Someone on here, can't remember who, suggested I replace those cobs with legit cobs, I remember he said it would be relatively easy, since the wiring can be used . I will definitely look into doing that at some point, that would give me another decent fixture. That and the hlg would rock my small tent which is like 2 by 3 or 1.5 by 3 ish
As always , you get what you pay for. I paid under 80$ for that Roleadro
Click to expand...
Probable me, I have one.
Cree cxb 3070 and ideal holders fit nicely or you could just epoxy.
Randomblame said:
Hmm! 300w means what? 120w ar the wall?
There are probably two 50w COB's installed each running at 1,5A or so. You need to open the backside an show me what's inside. Its really pretty easy.
You could use any 36v COB like Vero18 or 29d, Cree CXB3070 or 3590's or Citizen 1212 or 1216. All this COB's should run with the build in driver solution.
Most of the time there is some data mentioned on the drivers at least voltage and current. Top brand COB's can handle the heat much better like those generic chips und they should last a few years without getting damaged. At least not if there is any kind of heat sink inside.
You could also use an HLG-driver if it fit's inside the housing to make it fully dimmable. You should get almost as much light like from the new board if you for instance use an HLG-120 or 150H-36B and run the two COB's in parallel.

If you have the needed parts together the whole job is done in an hour. You could also use exsisting switches and all that or we integrate a Sonoff wifi timer to control the light with an app on your smartphone.

2x Citizen 1216gen6 =38$ or less
1x Meanwell HLG-150H-36B = 45$
1x Sonoff single channel = 5$
1x Dimmer knob, either the 6$ rapidled dimmer or just a cheap B100k potentiometer(5pcs 3$).
(with 108k in the best case but no less than 100k, check that with a multimeter. In the worst case add a 10k resistor to the center pin. With the rapidled dimmer that's not needed cuz it works with 0/1-10v.
You only need a screw driver, some thermal grease and a soldering iron to get the job done.
With new more powerful driver that still less the hundred bucks, without driver around 50$.
If you only change the COB's you get maybe 10w more because of the slightly higher COB voltage. These generic COB's have strings of 10 diodes, Citizen aso. use 12 chips in series.

If you need further help feel free to start a conversation. Pretty sure we can upgrade it easily and double its current output.




Yeah, I know what you can get with hydro style that's the reason why I'm switching to coco. You can treat it like a hydro medium and get hydro results but you can still add organic stuff like kelp, humin acids, myco's aso. which helps to keep the root zone healthy. Many plants are grown in even smaller net pots and they reach huge dimensions.
And I'll not use perlite or clay granules in the future. Coco holds only 60% water compared to standard peat based potting soil(90%) and the clay granules has only caused issues. Even if coco is completely wet there is still enough air so I'll not use perlite anymore. If I need better drainage I'll just add coco fibers.
I usually use a wet - dry, wet - dry style and flush at least two to five times. Same wet-dry method I've used here just with the difference that I've created a certain amount of runoff each time. I really like how fast coco dries out. This allows more feedings. I believe from week 3 I've started to feed her more often and from end of the stretch the cup needed ~3h to dry out enough(upper half).
Thanks for the full strength - half strength tipp. Will try is for sure.
I've flushed her each 2 weeks with ~300ppm kelp, humidic acids, amino's, enzymes and MycorrMax to flush out excessive nutes and avoid salt build up while adding useful organic stuff. When I've flushed her I've waited with the next feeding until the cup was almost dried out. But not too dry .. I've added living fungji and bacteria and need them alive.
Only the 1st 2 weeks I had to fight with a too high PH(+7,1) because it was a cheap unbufferd coco brick and those clay granules were pre-fertilized which I have overseen completely. I've buffered the coco myself using calcium and magnesium oxyd, kelp and humidic acids but the ph run out of control and increased from 5 to above 7.. Probably too much organic stuff. The start could have been much better without these early issues.
So only pure pre-buffered good quality coco next round..
I know there is still a lot room for improvements but it was my first coco run ever and I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
I'm pretty sure I'll find out how to get the best results. We have a few interesting coco threads and with peeps like you I'll pretty fast know the secrets about coco. Have already a good quality pre-buffered and pre-innoculated 70l(20gal.) coco brick made from all 3 types of coco. So I only need to create (or win) a new pair of new lights..
Click to expand...
IIRC it is 200, mine was sold as a 400W tho, same basic light from wha tree I have seen.

Continuing....for tiff
Get 4 cobs 1 for each power supply, you will need 2 more heatsinks, Id go passive for those.
 
Thegermling

Thegermling

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, I know what you can get with hydro style that's the reason why I'm switching to coco. You can treat it like a hydro medium and get hydro results but you can still add organic stuff like kelp, humin acids, myco's aso. which helps to keep the root zone healthy. Many plants are grown in even smaller net pots and they reach huge dimensions.
And I'll not use perlite or clay granules in the future. Coco holds only 60% water compared to standard peat based potting soil(90%) and the clay granules has only caused issues. Even if coco is completely wet there is still enough air so I'll not use perlite anymore. If I need better drainage I'll just add coco fibers.
I usually use a wet - dry, wet - dry style and flush at least two to five times. Same wet-dry method I've used here just with the difference that I've created a certain amount of runoff each time. I really like how fast coco dries out. This allows more feedings. I believe from week 3 I've started to feed her more often and from end of the stretch the cup needed ~3h to dry out enough(upper half).
Thanks for the full strength - half strength tipp. Will try is for sure.
I've flushed her each 2 weeks with ~300ppm kelp, humidic acids, amino's, enzymes and MycorrMax to flush out excessive nutes and avoid salt build up while adding useful organic stuff. When I've flushed her I've waited with the next feeding until the cup was almost dried out. But not too dry .. I've added living fungji and bacteria and need them alive.
Only the 1st 2 weeks I had to fight with a too high PH(+7,1) because it was a cheap unbufferd coco brick and those clay granules were pre-fertilized which I have overseen completely. I've buffered the coco myself using calcium and magnesium oxyd, kelp and humidic acids but the ph run out of control and increased from 5 to above 7.. Probably too much organic stuff. The start could have been much better without these early issues.
So only pure pre-buffered good quality coco next round..
I know there is still a lot room for improvements but it was my first coco run ever and I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
I'm pretty sure I'll find out how to get the best results. We have a few interesting coco threads and with peeps like you I'll pretty fast know the secrets about coco. Have already a good quality pre-buffered and pre-innoculated 70l(20gal.) coco brick made from all 3 types of coco. So I only need to create (or win) a new pair of new lights..
Click to expand...
When you use pure coco you have a media with an exceptional buffering capability. I would recommend when you try pure coco to only worry about ph going in and not about the ph coming out. Same with runoff. Be careful with the numbers because most of the time the numbers arent the correct representation of whats going on in the rootzone.
Contrary to popular belief coco does not need mag and cal buffering, read this article here https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=307683
and I recommend reading DJMs thread here too https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=300255
they are very good reads and should help you with coco growing.
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Thegermling said:
When you use pure coco you have a media with an exceptional buffering capability. I would recommend when you try pure coco to only worry about ph going in and not about the ph coming out. Same with runoff. Be careful with the numbers because most of the time the numbers arent the correct representation of whats going on in the rootzone.
Contrary to popular belief coco does not need mag and cal buffering, read this article here https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=307683
and I recommend reading DJMs thread here too https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=300255
they are very good reads and should help you with coco growing.
Click to expand...
I use something called tupar... It's coco mixed with perlite and vermiculite... It looks like soil,but it's not... Works really well.. I also use megacrop... Anyone ever heard of tupar before?
 
OneHitDone

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty said:
I use something called tupar... It's coco mixed with perlite and vermiculite... It looks like soil,but it's not... Works really well.. I also use megacrop... Anyone ever heard of tupar before?
Click to expand...
TUPUR also has "forest product"
It is an engineered product that works very well and is a great value.
@ttystikk was onto something when he started using it :hump:
Anyone looking for a quality coco based ready to use mix out of the bag should be checking it out
 
Thegermling

Thegermling

Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty said:
I use something called tupar... It's coco mixed with perlite and vermiculite... It looks like soil,but it's not... Works really well.. I also use megacrop... Anyone ever heard of tupar before?
Click to expand...
yeah ive heard of it. I havent tried it though. Im looking into using another product called Char Coir. I know a canna coco grower switched onto them because its cleaner than canna.
 
Tiflis

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Hmm! 300w means what? 120w ar the wall?
Click to expand...
From what I remember, it said 135 actual watt back when I first looked at it. Wouldn't be surprised if that number is BS as well lol it's Chinese, they do whatever fuq they want
I really appreciate the offer to help with the project, I'll hit you guys up when I'm ready, will be awhile thou , life is about to get busier
 
Big Green Thumb

Big Green Thumb

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
From what I remember, it said 135 actual watt back when I first looked at it. Wouldn't be surprised if that number is BS as well lol it's Chinese, they do whatever fuq they want
I really appreciate the offer to help with the project, I'll hit you guys up when I'm ready, will be awhile thou , life is about to get busier
Click to expand...
You should have just sprung for the "800W". Rated 400 watts. Actual draw ~200 +/- 5%. What pieces of crap all of those falsely advertised lights are! Sheesh. Glad I never bought one. Well, except the Viparspectra! LOL. Everybody falls for the bullshit until they see the (real) LIGHT!

I'm pretty sure those all grow plants about as efficiently as flames do. Hey, I have some old carbide miners lights around here. Time to build some more side lighting! HAHAHAHA

Edit: I just found a pic of an old carbide lamp from Ebay, and holy crap I am sitting on some dough! These got kind of valuable.
s-l1600.jpg
hqdefault (1).jpg
 
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Tiflis

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
Big Green Thumb said:
You should have just sprung for the "800W". Rated 400 watts. Actual draw ~200 +/- 5%. What pieces of crap all of those falsely advertised lights are! Sheesh. Glad I never bought one. Well, except the Viparspectra! LOL. Everybody falls for the bullshit until they see the (real) LIGHT!

I'm pretty sure those all grow plants about as efficiently as flames do. Hey, I have some old carbide miners lights around here. Time to build some more side lighting! HAHAHAHA

Edit: I just found a pic of an old carbide lamp from Ebay, and holy crap I am sitting on some dough! These got kind of valuable.
View attachment 4326611
View attachment 4326620
Click to expand...
That shit looks antic lol
I actually didn't fall for anything, I knew what I was getting into and had lowered my expectations accordingly . I wasn't planning on growing anything this winter, but then I came across the first thread that called for the competition..so glad I did
 
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