The Ideal spectrum.

SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
TEKNIK said:
I know what UV light is, you want UVB and even if I had UVB leds I could not sell the product with a decent warranty as it will destroy all the other leds

Let's say I came up with a UVB module and it was $50, it lasted only 5 months and destroyed your plants and tent. You would get pretty pissed with me when that happened and would give me a very bad reputation, it's not worth the risk for a manufacturer to do it right now. I will try and work out a practical solution but it's not going to happen this year and probably not next year either.
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Didn't you read the part about a separate puck?
I'm lucky to get 6mos. out of a set of windshied wipers. The tent is a disposable item. Sounds like you want to go far beyond what natural sunlight is, or even what curent cdm ot 10k mh lamps do?

I stand by my cop out statement. You're a manufacturer? Im pushing you. I want acceptable UV in an led.

Feel free to quote me when you make it happen, otherwise I see no need for you to quote me directly, you can still participate in the conversation, no need to quote me.
 
nachooo

nachooo

Well-Known Member
TEKNIK said:
I know what UV light is, you want UVB and even if I had UVB leds I could not sell the product with a decent warranty as it will destroy all the other leds

Let's say I came up with a UVB module and it was $50, it lasted only 5 months and destroyed your plants and tent. You would get pretty pissed with me when that happened and would give me a very bad reputation, it's not worth the risk for a manufacturer to do it right now. I will try and work out a practical solution but it's not going to happen this year and probably not next year either.
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I have added 25 watts of chinese UVA 360-370nm … in a 3x3 ..I have used them since veg time until flowering...and I have notice a Little shortening in flowering times..and much more terp production.. comparing similar genetics and similar White light base
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
I've been trying to sort out a good solution to this for over a year, so far there isn't one, the other issue I have is a can't test it at the moment so I have no idea how powerful it will be. There is alot to take into consideration when making a product, it's not as easy as slapping some leds on a pcb as some of you think it is
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
nachooo said:
I have added 25 watts of chinese UVA 360-370nm … in a 3x3 ..I have used them since veg time until flowering...and I have notice a Little shortening in flowering times..and much more terp production.. comparing similar genetics and similar White light base
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UVA is much easier to do than UVB, after July there will be a entire new range of UVA chips, I still need to do more tests on a protected solution but bare chips is easy
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Ive known about the problem for 30 years, been working on the "solution" for 5, if it were easy I wouldn't be bitching.
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
Randomblame seems to have it sorted with the reptile bulb. I know it's not ideal but if it works then it's good. I don't believe LED's are the solution to everything although they do work good for most applications.
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
Ok back to the ideal spectrum, high cri 4000k seems to be what people have found works along with some UVA and 730nm. Has anyone had any other observations regarding spectrum that they like or dislike?
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Tomato, tomato.
Radiation is spectrum, IR needs included. Potential to tweak with drive curent and thermal managment.
Tek brings to light the difference between diy and reality. UV resistant or outdoor rated wire comes to mind. I use a 105c ptfe coated wire, not sure on uv resistance but specially in a retail light would rely on knowledge and interpretation of appliance wiring material ratings.
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
Warpedpassage said:
Many thanks for the feedback. How many watts are you supplementing with that 70watts?
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Set-up is 9 Sammy's Gen3's strips @ 3k ran by an HLG 240H-24B with 2 sets of supplemental with 7 stars per strip and 3 strips per set which each set driven by a APC or LPC 35-700. Total wattage pull from the wall that fixture is 338 watts but the Sammy's get turn down so that the actual wattage pull from the wall is 270 watts to match the 268 wall watts of 3.5 and 4k strips of the all Sammy light ran the same with 9 strips per HLG 240H-24B.

Comparison of the light at full power compared to what I run it in flower.
DSCN0925.JPG DSCN0928.JPG

That run with the supplemental gave me 18 ounces in a 3x4 area pulling 270 watts from the wall or 1.9 GPW.
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
Set-up is 9 Sammy's Gen3's strips @ 3k ran by an HLG 240H-24B with 2 sets of supplemental with 7 stars per strip and 3 strips per set which each set driven by a APC or LPC 35-700. Total wattage pull from the wall that fixture is 338 watts but the Sammy's get turn down so that the actual wattage pull from the wall is 270 watts to match the 268 wall watts of 3.5 and 4k strips of the all Sammy light ran the same with 9 strips per HLG 240H-24B.

Comparison of the light at full power compared to what I run it in flower.
View attachment 4309162 View attachment 4309163

That run with the supplemental gave me 18 ounces in a 3x4 area pulling 270 watts from the wall or 1.9 GPW.
Click to expand...
1.9 GPW.. ..?
You need to upgrade to the Mars hydro mate.
Mars SP-250 LED Full Spectrum Hydroponic LED Grow Light

2'X4' Max Yield: 2.5g/watt

PPFD: 448-550 µmol/m²sReplace HID/MH: 400wDraw Power:
232W + - 5%@AC120V 242W + - 5%@AC240V

Lol
 
Warpedpassage

Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
Set-up is 9 Sammy's Gen3's strips @ 3k ran by an HLG 240H-24B with 2 sets of supplemental with 7 stars per strip and 3 strips per set which each set driven by a APC or LPC 35-700. Total wattage pull from the wall that fixture is 338 watts but the Sammy's get turn down so that the actual wattage pull from the wall is 270 watts to match the 268 wall watts of 3.5 and 4k strips of the all Sammy light ran the same with 9 strips per HLG 240H-24B.

Comparison of the light at full power compared to what I run it in flower.
View attachment 4309162 View attachment 4309163

That run with the supplemental gave me 18 ounces in a 3x4 area pulling 270 watts from the wall or 1.9 GPW.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed reaponse.

Hats off to the great growing skills. Great stuff! With such low w/sq.ft at that!!
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
Moflow said:
1.9 GPW.. ..?
You need to upgrade to the Mars hydro mate.
Mars SP-250 LED Full Spectrum Hydroponic LED Grow Light

2'X4' Max Yield: 2.5g/watt

PPFD: 448-550 µmol/m²sReplace HID/MH: 400wDraw Power:
232W + - 5%@AC120V 242W + - 5%@AC240V

Lol
Click to expand...
If that's what your getting from a Mars Hydro. Congrats
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
HA! Saying LED is not a viable UVB solution is BS.

Fluoros destroy the boards just the same. I'm convinced that people are directed away from certain avenues of design because the big players haven't gotten there yet.

Fluoros have half-life's too. You can use a metal reflector to keep the UV off the board and you don't have to put a million chips in a module. Agromax isn't worried when people torch their plants, the excuses are just that. BABA sells higher than UVC, they have a 310nm that extends to 290 that I'll be using. I haven't decided if ill make them screw in replaceable or like the back of a TV remote battery holder, but small modules are a definite benefit and super easy to make. Its my opinion that they haven't figured a way to drive a 1w module and thus the feet dragging. I'm designing Wi-Fi dimmers that have channels with selectable V or I so you can use your existing drivers and buy extra strips (or UV pucks) and power them without buying extra drivers. It would allow for small wattage supplementals like UV.

Btw, my board will go from 310 - 850, including a green channel... Go ahead tell me how stupid I am lol

And for the last little bit of my rant lol.. if I was reading that right, a 25w white to 15w red seems super heavy red? ROYGBIV = 7 colors. An ideal flat SPD would have close to 1/7 red, right? So 25w ÷ 7 = 3.6w red plus 15w of straight red, maybe the ÷ by 7 isn't a good way to glance at it??
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
HA! Saying LED is not a viable UVB solution is BS.

Fluoros destroy the boards just the same. I'm convinced that people are directed away from certain avenues of design because the big players haven't gotten there yet.

Fluoros have half-life's too. You can use a metal reflector to keep the UV off the board and you don't have to put a million chips in a module. Agromax isn't worried when people torch their plants, the excuses are just that. BABA sells higher than UVC, they have a 310nm that extends to 290 that I'll be using. I haven't decided if ill make them screw in replaceable or like the back of a TV remote battery holder, but small modules are a definite benefit and super easy to make. Its my opinion that they haven't figured a way to drive a 1w module and thus the feet dragging. I'm designing Wi-Fi dimmers that have channels with selectable V or I so you can use your existing drivers and buy extra strips (or UV pucks) and power them without buying extra drivers. It would allow for small wattage supplementals like UV.

Btw, my board will go from 310 - 850, including a green channel... Go ahead tell me how stupid I am lol

And for the last little bit of my rant lol.. if I was reading that right, a 25w white to 15w red seems super heavy red? ROYGBIV = 7 colors. An ideal flat SPD would have close to 1/7 red, right? So 25w ÷ 7 = 3.6w red plus 15w of straight red, maybe the ÷ by 7 isn't a good way to glance at it??
Click to expand...
OK so we need to see what your problems if any occur with your light. I personally won't sell something like that if I can't test it, I found the Seoul semi has UVB, let's see how your light goes and I will see if I can get my spectrometer to be able to see UVB then we may have something sooner rather than later.
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
I don't believe that plants need to be blasted with light for the entire time the lights are on, I think they need light but it needs to be in steps. This is one way to reduce overall wattage used to grow.
I think light can start of low in the heavy red spectrum, mid light cycle needs to be very strong heavy full spectrum light, then back down to the heavier red spectrum again. The reason I say this is because I do not think the chemicals in the plants can react fast enough to full light being blasted at them when the lights are initially turned on, I also think it will help having a heavier red before lights out as that is the way nature is, of course we know that 730nm after lights out for a few minutes also has an effect.
 
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