Looks good Speero. Yes, Dyna-Gro can be used in soil.
High P will lock out the micros, also N. Vigoro makes an All Purpose Food, 24-5-18, that will help. Get it at Casa dePot. A foliar citrus spray containing micros of Fe, Mg, Cu, Zn..... can help too.I just read all 51 pages and I must say wow, I did understand all of it, including the technical descriptions as I do have a scientific background. I do a lot of reading here but not so much questions as I usually think the answer is there if you search for it but after 51 pages I do have a question. How/can you correct an overdose of P in organic/soil? by organic I mean I don't use liquid nutes, I use a soilmix and I just use plain water on it, I use Vics super soil mix and started to see the yellowing and necrosis after about 3 weeks into flowering. I got sucked into the forum paradigm and believed that plants needed high P for flowering so when I switched them over to flower I top dressed with some high P bat guano 0-15-1. So is it possible to fix this or do I just have to ride it out for this harvest? I know I can't remove the guano and I am not sure if I should hit it with some N or anything to help it or if that might just make it worse, Ive been riding it out so far for a couple weeks and not sure what path is best to take, if you are reading this UB any advice is greatly appreciated.
I wrote this years ago and thought I'd share it here.
The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is - "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P ferts.
I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.
Uncle Ben
i hit them with Foxfarm open sesamie, foxfarm beasty bloom and now foxfarm cha ching.. i thik i hit them too hard cause im getting loss of leaves, growth stoped, for both bud production and leafs, lots of yellow leafs, that are burning and curling, my bucket is root bound.. help me.. what can i do to get my last 2 weeks left to get them to produce a lil more..
With such limited info, it's anybody's guess. Leaf spots is just an indication of impending leaf necrosis. It's a symptom.Ok so I have been reading threw this and I definitely have a nute deficiency but my question is, What are all these black spots I am getting? I have 3 in flower all with the same nute cycle but only 1 has these black spots. My light was a little close to the plants but I backed it off a bit today. Dont think thats the problem though as I am using leds and they dont get too hot in there. What im thinking from reading threw this is a mag deficiency or maybe mold?. I also noticed that on top of one of my colas i have a bit of really bright red. Only one 1 cola out the 3 plants in flower has the red in it. Thought that was a bit odd? Any addvice would be greatly appreciated.
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so wait.. your saying its ok to use (N) during Flowering even at 7 weeks in?Nothing, the damage has been done. Just try to keep as many healthy leaves as possible until harvest. IOW, shit can the bloom foods!
Again.........
Do not use bloom foods, any food low in N, for any extended period of time. I (and others who are following my example) are using a high N food from start to finish and their yields and the health of their plants have greatly improved.
UB
It's not only OK, it's what you should be doing to support green healthy leaves. If you search out my posts you'll see references to me using a slow release 18-4-9 until harvest and a reference to Homebrewers recent test using 6 clones testing a low P food, Foliage Pro 9-3-6 against DG's Grow food. The yield of the high N food was 10% higher than the high P food. It's at another forum with a short version here. Here are a few pix which I C/P - https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/267989-uncle-bens-gardening-tweeks-pointers-76.htmlso wait.. your saying its ok to use (N) during Flowering even at 7 weeks in?
With such limited info, it's anybody's guess. Leaf spots is just an indication of impending leaf necrosis. It's a symptom.
What foods have you been using?
With those nutes, your plants are toast.I am in week 3 of flowering. All I am using is humboldt nutrients bloom natural 0-10-0 and has 10% cal nothing else. I have been doing half dosage untill now. I was going to switch over to age old bloom wich is 5-10-5. Im sure that will help with the yellowing of the leafs but i want to get rid of the black spots. None of my growth has slowed down its just the discoloration that i am worried about.