jahman2222
Well-Known Member
now if you mix then bunny guano in with your soil do you still water your plants with the tea or do you just water it with normal water
The Three - Amazing Shits....
- Thread starter Ohsogreen
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now if you mix then bunny guano in with your soil do you still water your plants with the tea or do you just water it with normal water
thenismoketwomore
Active Member
I live on a horse farm and i'm wondering if I can use horse shit for Organic Nutrients
Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
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Yes you can, because "Road Apples" - Rock. It can be done several ways.
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You can let it sit for at least three weeks, then mix (1) cup per gallon of soil.
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You can compost it, with grass clipping, leaves, (non-meat or non-dairy) food scraps for about a month; which makes it a little better.
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Or you can mix (2) cups of fresh horse manure to a gallon of chlorine free water. Pouring it from one container (jug or bucket) to another twice a day for two days - this adds adequate oxygen to promote feeding activity by the good microorganisms already in it. Or you can bubble it (oxygenate it), using a cheap aquarium air pump / air stone - for a day or so. Let the end product settle - then water it in - at the rate of one quart per gallon of soil. Put the left over crud in your compost pile. Your Horse Tea can be used weekly - thru out veggie growth period. Since, it is so mild.
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The NPK value of horse manure is .7-.3-.6 by itself. If you compost it with other things - the NPK goes up a little.
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real....Organic..
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thenismoketwomore
Active Member
Thats awesome thanks man. Now I'm definitely going all organic Now I dont have to buy fertilizer
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smppro
Well-Known Member
I was wondering if you just use guano or do you add any secondary nutrients to your teas(which i guess are contained in different types of guanos, sea weed extract, fish emulsion, molasses) I dont mind spending the money on all of those since its really cheap. Would you recommend mixing a couple different nitrogens for veg and a couple different phosphorus for flower so its more well rounded or keep it simple. I know i cant force feed them nutrients just want a healthy mix.
one more question, if im brewing my tea with a airstone in a bucket out side for a couple days how long does the tea last? Can i store it or just let it keep brewing for a couple weeks. Thanks
one more question, if im brewing my tea with a airstone in a bucket out side for a couple days how long does the tea last? Can i store it or just let it keep brewing for a couple weeks. Thanks
Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
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If you mix your bunny manure in the soil - Use only plain unchlorinated water, to water with, until the next feeding cycle.
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I like to fertilize every two weeks, and use plain water (and/or Super Plant Tonic) in between feedings. This prevents overfeeding which is one of the two most common grow problems, the other one is overwatering.
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After your intial mixing in of the bunny manure, I'd use bunny manure tea, for each feeding cycle after that. I prevents your soil from getting to heavy/compacted - which occurs if you keep adding organic matter to your container.
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If growing in soil, outdoors, you can just top dress the bunny manure each feeding cycle. Scratch the surface lightly with a screwdriver or stick - before putting down the bunny manure. Plus add a light later of mulch, like fresh grass clippings or dried leaves. Just enough to cover the bunny manure. If you add too much mulch, you'll be inviting pests & rodents to set up shop.
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...
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Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
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I mix & match... It requires only very basic math skills. I use very dilute seaweed at weeks 6 & 9 only... OK, I already know what your thinking....6 & 9...LOL
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NPK values of common organic amendments / fertilizers - when making teas - use only unchlorinated water. If you only have tap water, leave it sitting in an open container for two days - 99 % of the chlorine will evaporate.
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Rabbit Manure (fresh, source: your pet) NPK 2.4-1.4-.6 - use one cup per gallon of water.
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Bat Guano (fresh, source: Ebay, Hydro Shops, A Cave) NPK averages around 10-4-1.5 - use two to four tablespoons per gallon of water. (I'd use only two tablespoons the first time). Aged - NPK averages 0-4-0 up to 0-12-0. I like 0-7-0 (aka - Budswell) myself; because the P number represented is the soluble (immediately available measurement only). High P Bat Guano averages two or three times that number in total P. The other just breaks down slowly over time. Mix it the same way as fresh - start low & build up slowly.
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Chicken Manure - composted only - don't use fresh (Ebay, Hydro Shops, Garden Centers, your pet) average NPK 3.5-5-3.5 varies by diet & composting method, some as high as 6-8-6 or as low as 2-1-2 - use one cup per gallon of water.
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Worm Castings (fresh, source: Garden Centers, Ebay, Commerical Worm Farm, in your own vermicomposting bin) average NPK 1-0-0 - add four tablespoons per gallon of water. More is not necessary only .1 % N is soluble, the other .9 % breaks down slowly over time. That is a very weak source of N. The reason WC's are so good, they add trace minerals & good microorganisms. That's their real appeal.
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Seaweed - (fresh, dried or composted - source Garden Centers, Ebay, Hydro Shops, the beach) NPK varies with source (use very dilute) half of their recommended dose - at weeks 6 & 9. Yes, LOL...again...
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Unsulphured Molasses - (fresh, source: Grocery Store) average NPK 5-1-3
use one ounce to one gallon of water. I like Brer Rabbit Brand.
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Fish Emulsion - (processed, source Garden Center, Wal-mart, Ebay, Hydro Shops) average NPK 5-1-1 Use as per label's instructions - usually one tablespoon to one gallon of water.
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To mix up a very useable, soil growing tea - shoot for a NPK of no higher than 10-5-5, because of the nature of Organics (slow released). Overuse/feeding with toxify soil just like over use of chemical fertilizers. Only use one quart of your final tea mix, to each gallon of soil, when you feed. I recommend only feeding every two weeks. & just water in between (and/or use Super Plant Tonic).
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At flowering time, shoot for a NPK no higher than 2-8-4. Keeping the N below 2 helps stop veggie growth & directs more of the plants energy to flowering. Higher P & K numbers are OK, but I try to stay at or under the P-K I have recommended 8-4. With Organics more is not better, because you want to feed low, slow & steady for best results.
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Once I brew tea, I try to use it within (3) days. After that, the good microorganisms start to slowly die & the non-oxygen loving microorganisms (the bad guys) may but not always, start to take over.
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It is possible to bubble indefinitely, if you add a small amount of N to the mix each week to feed the good microorganisms. The N content will continue to decline slightly / slowly & the P & K usually go up just slightly.
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If you introduce, beneficial microorganisms to your tea mix (like mychorizzal fungi) when you start brewing it, it makes it even better. They out compete for the food source (N) reproduce, kill off the bad microorganisms, excrete natural antibotics & make everything in the tea mix HIGHLY Soluble.
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Sources for these good fungi & bacteria (Hydro Shops - a product called Sub-Culture or Myco Magic, Ebay - a product called Super Plant Tonic, or talk to a agri-student at your local college - let them culture you some for a few bucks - kids in college always need money & they keep dry cultures of these things on hand.)
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Ok, now just get out a pen & a piece of paper - mix & match - stay within the provided limits & you'll be brewing a great tea in no time.
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Hope this helps.
Keep it Real....as always Organic...
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Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
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Yes.. I should - great suggestion. Thanks Seamaiden for adding a positive idea to this thread. I tried to +rep ya, but it told me I had to spread it around.
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TreeDweller79
Well-Known Member
Awesome info, this may be my new favorite thread. OhSoGreen, Do you have any thoughts on the earthworms living in the containers with the plants. Great organic info. Much thanks
Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
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Yes...click on the hotlink below for my thoughts on earthworms shacking up with Mary....
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https://www.rollitup.org/1018044-post13.html
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Hope this helps....
Seamaiden
Well-Known Member
Vermiculture thread, mayhaps? I want to start a small home vermi set-up, using something like Martha Stewart's design, maybe. Depends on how difficult it is to get at the castings. Oh! I forgot to check the mail, last track it went out of Sact'o.
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superskunkxnl
Well-Known Member
sorry ohso cant must spread rep around before giving to you again but thanx +rep once it lets me again peace
Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
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Thanks for trying. I appreciate the thought. Glad I could help with a few questions...
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Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by DryGrain 
I went to the bait shop last week and got 200 redworms to add to my outdoor. I also threw a few into my compost pile. It cost about $1.50 for a container of 50 redworms.
Does anyone know if nightcrawlers, earthworms, or redworms are more or less beneficial than each other?
Seamaiden... all worms will vermicompost. They will each eat half their body weight (daily) in food & poop out castings. Except for size & where they live, they are all pretty much the same.
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Earthworms (aka Nightcrawlers) prefer living deeper in the soil - like in your lawn, garden or a large compost pile. They will live in a bin, but will start jumping ship - once things start getting crowded.
Redworms (aka - manure worms) are content living under a pile of cow manure. So, they are the least picky & tolerate higher tempertures easier. They are most commonly sold as Trout or Pan Fish Worms. They are smaller in size, but make up for it in numbers. They don't care how many neighbors they have. They are the most common worm sold for vermicomposting..
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I went to the bait shop last week and got 200 redworms to add to my outdoor. I also threw a few into my compost pile. It cost about $1.50 for a container of 50 redworms.
Does anyone know if nightcrawlers, earthworms, or redworms are more or less beneficial than each other?
Seamaiden... all worms will vermicompost. They will each eat half their body weight (daily) in food & poop out castings. Except for size & where they live, they are all pretty much the same.
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Earthworms (aka Nightcrawlers) prefer living deeper in the soil - like in your lawn, garden or a large compost pile. They will live in a bin, but will start jumping ship - once things start getting crowded.
Redworms (aka - manure worms) are content living under a pile of cow manure. So, they are the least picky & tolerate higher tempertures easier. They are most commonly sold as Trout or Pan Fish Worms. They are smaller in size, but make up for it in numbers. They don't care how many neighbors they have. They are the most common worm sold for vermicomposting..
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Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
.wow thanks OhSoGreenI just picked up some free samples of Mycorhhizal (sp?) fungi at the grow shop, and am bubbling it with some earthworm castings and molasses for tommorrow's watering.
Your welcome... Mycho Fungi - Rock..... Your plants will absolutely love the stuff. It makes them hard as nails. Bubbling it with the WC's & Molasses is the way too go. They will multiple, kill off any (not so nice) micro-beaties and bioconvert (eat & shit it out) all the other stuff until it's so small your plants roots can suck it right up.
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Word to the Wise... Once you use the Myco Fungi...cut back on your fertilizer for a while. Your roots will get super efficent at drawing what's in you medium in. Plus the Myco's break down everything present...so go light ....
thenismoketwomore
Active Member
I,ve read that Human urine is a good source of Nitrogen. What do you all think about using it to feed plants?
thenismoketwomore
Active Member
ok so I had already kinda tries using horse manure before stumbling across this wonderful site and I definitely used way too much, any suggestions on how to fix this, I shoulda been more straight forward before, just trying not to sound like an idiot. I pretty much just mixed a bunch of fresh and old horse shit with a bunch of dirt and some dead plants in a hole and used that as my soil
Ohsogreen
Well-Known Member
thenismoketwomore, I really don't like the ideal of using straight urine. So, I just don't. I know it contains allot of N. The Dutch even have built in Urine Recovery Systems in their towns. Yes, they have seperate piping in their sewer systems which recover urine, which they process / recover for fertilizer.
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Since, you don't know exactly how much N is in each (we'll call it a run) Run, you can end up over or under fertilizing your plants. The end product at a Dutch Sewage Processing Plant is of a known value.
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Now, adding it to compost, would be OK. Some will evaporate, some will be used up in the process of biocoversion and actually aid the compost in breaking down. With compost, things tend to level out better, more so, than using each amendment seperately in the raw.
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I'd compost the horse manure & urine, with some old hay, well rotted saw dust, straw, oak leaves, grass clipping from the lawn, and food scraps (non-meat & non-dairy).
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When growing, you have to start out with decent soil, or you're just wasting you time. Which you already figured out. No, big deal, we've all had plants fall over dead.
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Since, you don't know exactly how much N is in each (we'll call it a run) Run, you can end up over or under fertilizing your plants. The end product at a Dutch Sewage Processing Plant is of a known value.
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Now, adding it to compost, would be OK. Some will evaporate, some will be used up in the process of biocoversion and actually aid the compost in breaking down. With compost, things tend to level out better, more so, than using each amendment seperately in the raw.
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I'd compost the horse manure & urine, with some old hay, well rotted saw dust, straw, oak leaves, grass clipping from the lawn, and food scraps (non-meat & non-dairy).
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When growing, you have to start out with decent soil, or you're just wasting you time. Which you already figured out. No, big deal, we've all had plants fall over dead.
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