They're not doing so great... first time grower, long time listener.

H

hefflm

Active Member
dwood8165 said:
They do look a little sickly...lol. But all salvageable. Never give up on your plants. It will just make you better, I would do the last transplant. Buy a saucers for each plant.
I believe the mix of dirt you are using is ph'd balance.(please read the bags) But i do know HAppy frog has dolomite lime. which helps balance ph
1. transplant with the same mix adding different types of bacteria to the root ball
2. add some happy frog fruit and tomato. you can use about 30ml per gallon. this is a easy amendment to the soil. it will probably satisfy all of your nutrient needs, except for the calmg. it has alot of bacteria
3 Add epsom salt and crab shell to your mix, about a cup of each for every pot (calmg)
4. remove the dead or dying leaves
5. watch but do not touch
6. bottom feed ergo the saucers. This will allow the soil to become moist and not wet. you do have leaf curl if the soil is moist enough it will not absorb the water. If it is dry enough the water will be gone in a matter of a hour. Then you can gage the weight of the pot by lifting it.
Also stop phing your water, let the dolomite and bacteria do the work
Another reason I say this is because if the dolomite is in the Happy Frog you are fighting against it. Feed the bacteria. They will balance everything for you
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That may be tough to do right now with all the gardening stores on lockdown, but I'll definitely look into it. Is it FF Tomato and Fruit or Tomato and Veggie?

Amazon.com : Fox Farm Happy Frog Tomato and Vegetable 5-7-3, 4-Pound Bag : Soil And Soil Amendments : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Fox Farm Happy Frog Tomato and Vegetable 5-7-3, 4-Pound Bag : Soil And Soil Amendments : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com


That is what I found.

I emailed Fox Farm and they told me to pH the water. I was also told earlier in this thread that it is best for me to get these girls healthy before I transplant or put them into flower. Do you disagree with this assessment? Doesn't transplanting "shock" them more?

I'm going to post update pictures today. Since my original pictures they've received a 1/4-1/3 feeding of Grow Big and Big Bloom and the next day a foliar feed of epsom salt water. All water pH'd to 6-6.2.
 
SnidleyBluntash

SnidleyBluntash

Well-Known Member
You do want to make sure the plants are 100% healthy and everything is fixed before you go into flower. There is no turning back from flower. The plant won’t produce any new leaves, so what you have is all you got. And any issues will cause them to take longer and less yield. When the plants are nice lush green then consider flowering.

Transplant shock sometimes is only as bad as the gardeners shaky hands. If you mangle the root ball you will get shock. If you are very gentle the plant might not even notice.

When was the last time you transplanted? I thought it was not that long ago. To check you could lift one out of the container and see what the roots are up to.

Maybe it’s time to experiment and have 2-3 test groups, give one only plain tap water, the other pHed, and see which ones perk up.
 
H

hefflm

Active Member
Thanks man.

Yeah, it wasn't long ago I moved them into 3 gallon pots. It didn't seem to bother them too much, but who knows with all of the issues I've had. It is difficult to pinpoint when things went wrong. If I had to guess, right from the beginning! haha

I'm intrigued by the light burn theory. I read a couple of research papers yesterday on the NIH database about growing cannabis (we live in interesting times.) I'm not a biologist, botanist, or physicist (obviously haha), but I didn't catch anything about burn in that paper. I'm sure it exists, but I don't understand the process well enough to really be able to tease that apart.



Good call on the test groups. I'm a bit timid on changing too much at once. I think I'm going to do 1 week of (pH'd) feeding 1/3-/12 strength FF nutes and foliar feeding epsom salt. I believe I'll feed every other watering, but foliar feed epsom every watering. It seems like it is a lot harder to hurt your plants with magnesium than with NPK.

After this week, I'll start experimenting with water. I can use tap, pH'd tap, RO, and pH'd RO. I am worried about leaving them in 16/8 for too long. Don't they stretch like 2x once flowering? My tent ceiling is 7 feet and that carbon filter is probably taking up a good 1' at the top of the tent. I think my lights will only be 6' off the ground max. I may throw up a trellis to start training them, if/when I fix this nutrient/water/light burn nonsense. I was scared to break their feeble stems and LST when they were babies. I topped twice though to try to keep them bushy, due to my light constraints. That process didn't seem to bother the plants one bit.

Lots of variables. It is like an interesting little adaptive puzzle. Good thing for this forum...
 
H

hefflm

Active Member
Question for dwood; you said a cup of each to every pot when I transplant. Just pour 1 cup of salt and 1 cup of Crab Shell meal each into the soil then mix it around? The FF Tomato and Vegetable looks like a solid fertilizer. You said add 30ml. I'm not sure I follow that?

I am going to measure my fabric pots so I can buy some saucers. Probably will help contain the mess as well!
 
dwood8165

dwood8165

Well-Known Member
hefflm said:
Question for dwood; you said a cup of each to every pot when I transplant. Just pour 1 cup of salt and 1 cup of Crab Shell meal each into the soil then mix it around? The FF Tomato and Vegetable looks like a solid fertilizer. You said add 30ml. I'm not sure I follow that?

I am going to measure my fabric pots so I can buy some saucers. Probably will help contain the mess as well!
Click to expand...
I was not suggesting to go into flower after the transplant. It was to give your plant roots the ability to stretch out and find the new food sources on there own ( my Bad).
Its Happy frog Fruit and tomato and that was 30ml per gallon. For a 5 gallon container that would be 150ml. Yes, it is a solid fertilizer. The reason to mix it into the dirt when you transplant. One cup (epsom salt and crabshell) of each mixed into your soil will probably last the entire grow.. OR you can use 15ml per gallon. The crab shell is calcium and it is a slow moving nutrient. The epsom salt will dissolve fast and the plants uptake is quicker and it helps boost the plant metabolism
For the transplant issue it really depends on you. Actually it all depends on you....smile. but I have transplanted unhealthy plants and have them bounced back better the than the ones that was healthy. but if you want to give them time, that's cool. because I have done that as well. I just named some stuff that makes life a little easier
the ph'ing is your call. I only ph consistently when I do not us dolomite. When I use dolomite, I ph the first week maybe. Everything else is straight water dechlorinated
 
dwood8165

dwood8165

Well-Known Member
hefflm said:
That may be tough to do right now with all the gardening stores on lockdown, but I'll definitely look into it. Is it FF Tomato and Fruit or Tomato and Veggie?

Amazon.com : Fox Farm Happy Frog Tomato and Vegetable 5-7-3, 4-Pound Bag : Soil And Soil Amendments : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Fox Farm Happy Frog Tomato and Vegetable 5-7-3, 4-Pound Bag : Soil And Soil Amendments : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com


That is what I found.

I emailed Fox Farm and they told me to pH the water. I was also told earlier in this thread that it is best for me to get these girls healthy before I transplant or put them into flower. Do you disagree with this assessment? Doesn't transplanting "shock" them more?

I'm going to post update pictures today. Since my original pictures they've received a 1/4-1/3 feeding of Grow Big and Big Bloom and the next day a foliar feed of epsom salt water. All water pH'd to 6-6.2.
Click to expand...
your amazon link shows the right stuff. After adding that to my soil I stopped using alot of primary nutrient liquids Stuff like the grow big will not not be needed. read the label. I still use big bloom thats my shit. I use big bloom and molasses or earth juice catalyst to brew my bacteria teas. you can also use earth juice catalyst as a ph down
 
H

hefflm

Active Member
Alright cool. I'm going to give it a whirl. Here are some updated pictures (2 posts)

I think they look better! However, still ain't great. The leaves aren't as droopy. Still look burnt and crispy, especially on 2-3 of them...
 

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H

hefflm

Active Member
Any benefit/problem with removing those dead leaves? I imagine they aren't coming back. The new growth on the bottom actually looks decent?
 
dwood8165

dwood8165

Well-Known Member
Remove those dead leaves. Also remove the leaves that are close to the soil. It will not hurt to defoliate if possible. they need p badly. what size pots? rule of my thumb 15ml per gallon. Work with those plants. you have come to far to give up. They just need some care and time. Some extra P and fruit and tomato, bacteria, plus pruning and those girls will look totally different

Give Them Time To React!!!!!
 
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M

MRMIH10

New Member
hefflm said:
I'm cross-posting, as the "Have A Plant Problem? Check Here First" thread seems dead.

Grow setup:640w PCL PhotoBoost based on lm301bs and 660nm Crees
5x5 gorilla tent, ac infinity intake and exhaust fans
two mini clip fans (I have hurricanes but i need to reconfigure to mount)
~77 F and 55% RH

Q.C.S. Feminized OG Kush Seeds from Montreal Cannabis Seeds

Started in Fox Farms Light Warrior for about a week.
3" JiffyPots - Just fed un-pH'd tap water. Seemed to do ok.
Transplanted to a 1 Gallon VivoSun fabric pots.
Fox Farms Ocean Forest/Happy Frog/Light Warrior in a 2:2:1 mix

Started pHing water when I saw leaves turning downwards
I thought I was overwatering (in an air pot, I know I know..)
I was actually underwatering them I believe.
Almost killed them all by pulling back on the water (derp)
Started watering more when I read about sticking your finger in the dirt (something I'm really good at) and gauging moisture up to 1"
They seemed to be coming back to life, but were definitely yellowing and crisping up
then I transplanted to 3 Gallon, kept the watering to about once every 2 days or so
Some of them continued to grow normally
Some of them did not.
Here is all of them for comparison.
I felt as though I had Nitrogen, calcium, potassium and possibly phosphorus deficiency?

Fed for the first-time using Fox Farms Grow Big and Big Bloom (10 ml of each in a 4 gallon watering bucket, less than half the recommended dose) and pH'd to 6.5

Should I just kill off the nastiest looking plants? I was planning on one last transplant to 7 gallon fabric pots (2 weeks before flipping to 12/12) and don't want to waste photons. If they can be better spent on some of the "healthier plants." Although, they all look kinda shitty. I can post more pictures if necessary.

I planned on feeding 4 weeks after 7 gallon transplant (2 weeks into flower), since the FF soil is already nutrient dense. I also read that there is a 2 week recovery period from the transplant. I want them to be healthy before I even attempting to transplant.


Obviously I'm new to this and a complete fuck up. Hahaha. I'm just trying to piece together info as I go. Open to any and all suggestions, criticism, and eventually praise.
Click to expand...
UnPH Tap water first mistake
 
H

hefflm

Active Member
Yeah, lots of mistakes were made lol. More to come, I'm sure.

I ordered some crab shell meal and FF tomato fert. Also removed dead leaves. They've had two foliar feedings with epsom salt and 1 feeding with 1/3 strength FF nutes.

The pots are drying out as rapidly as before. They look a bit better, but should I be worried about that? Here is an updated picture after removing the dead leaves.
 

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iriemartin1974

iriemartin1974

Well-Known Member
hefflm said:
Also, I didn't think I could overwater in fabric pots! :cry: I have been drowning these ladies every other day. Ugh. I read that optimally you'll want to water 1 quart/liter per gallon. Is this the same in fabric pots as well? I don't believe I've been giving them much more than that, but there is definitely runoff.
Click to expand...
Total droop under watered. Just fan leafs stems erect but green part droops. Over watered.. just something i read.
 
H

hefflm

Active Member
I think things are starting to look better, but hard to tell. I also think that epsom salt foliar feed left some residue. It does look like there is some slight burn on the tips of new growth, but I could be mistaken.
 

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C

CannaCountry

Well-Known Member
hefflm said:
I think things are starting to look better, but hard to tell. I also think that epsom salt foliar feed left some residue. It does look like there is some slight burn on the tips of new growth, but I could be mistaken.
Click to expand...
They do look a little better. Figure out how to incorporate the Epsom into your feed...the foliar spray is only a band aid. Keep at it; good luck.
 
H

hefflm

Active Member
A quick update and a question.

Things are going a lot better now. I'll post another response with some pictures. I completed the final transplant and flipped these guys to flower last week. I also swapped up lights, as I had some issues with my DIY setup (it wasn't even the light, it was a power issue, but it is ironed out now). I now have two SF4000s (900w total) in the tent. I incorporated the crab shell meal and FF Tomato and Vegetable. I also now regularly use RO water w/ CalMag (1tsp/gal) pH'd to 6.0-6.5. Things are for sure going smoother.

However, when I went into my tent an hour before "sunrise" to swap my lights, I noticed the humidity was hovering near 90%. Now I'm not doctor, but that seems like a bad thing. I started running a large whole house dehumidifier, but it is only taking me down 3-5%. I plan on throwing a smaller dehumidifier directly in the tent this week. It is on order. Is there anything else I can be doing here? The temp dropped from ~80F to ~60F with lights off. I suppose I could also throw a small spacer heater in there for evenings. But the temp, from what I've read, is reasonable for "night time."

Thoughts? I'm a week into flowering, so there aren't large buds/surface area to attract/grow mold, but I'm sure this will be a problem if I'm not proactive.


Edit: I have a 6" Raxial AC Infinity (265CFM) intake fan and a 6" AC Infinity CloudLine S6 (402CFM) exhaust fan attached to a carbon filter. They're on 24/7l. There is negative pressure in the tent. I also have two mini clip fans installed running 24/7. I may try to get the hurricane setup in the tent. I tried not too long ago and failed due to the nature of my light frame. With the SF4000s, it should be a bit easier now.
 
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