Things You found Out on your own

Swiftowl11

Active Member
I learned dont listen to everything everyone says. Take what they say as a precursor, for your tests. You have to try and then form your own opinion.
 

missnu

Well-Known Member
Small light leaks can indeed cause some plants to hermie....lol. I was like nahhh...and i have one strain that doesn't seem to mind...just blissfully flowers away...but then I came across another strain that uhhhh does mind...so I put the plant that doesn't care in front of the vent I suspect to be causing the issue til I can figure out how to block it...lol
 

ck420

Member
I learned that if u bend the branches down not to break them but to just tear away enough plant tissue you will get an extra branch there kinda cool with out cuting it or tieing it down worked for me but might stressful enough to hermie
 

dannyboy602

Well-Known Member
Had my soil tested at a lab. My own mix. Way high levels of P and K. But because I used actual ground minerals and not salt based fertilizers NOTHING burned. I don't feed. The mix lasts the whole grow. I just water. Soooo much easier.
 

crazyhazey

Well-Known Member
Had my soil tested at a lab. My own mix. Way high levels of P and K. But because I used actual ground minerals and not salt based fertilizers NOTHING burned. I don't feed. The mix lasts the whole grow. I just water. Soooo much easier.
thats the way to go, i still use a bit of p and k in my compost teas but thats mostly for microbes
 

JASON79

Active Member
90% of the information you read is misinformation
this is true
I do not understand most of what i read its just not needed
nutes for soil, grow/bloom that it
(root mass) start in small pots let the soil dry out, leave 1 to 2 days more when soil cums away from plant pot (gap all the way round ), then water
do not feed just ph water, when you have good root mass report in bigger pot and same again
i did this and within 6 weeks from cutting big root mass in 35 ltrs container, with just 6.7 pH water
i use 20% grow 80% bloom though flower but just ph water 3 weeks after repoting
using ec pen helps keep it at 1.2-1.3 ec level
large oscillating fans away from plants or it drys leafs out and stress plant
there should be no guide lines for light to plant distance footprint it has to be based on the strain: northern lights 5 x haze or super lemon haze 600w needs to be 12-14"
3x3 footprint but it would not do big bud any good it needs to be 16"-20" 4x4 footprint
i get good results with basic set up
it is a weed at the end of the day, it do not need much just the correct and consistent temperature, humidity, light cycle, nutes, airflow
keep it basic and you will get top yield/quality bud
 

longroot

Well-Known Member
90% of the information you read is misinformation
this is true
I do not understand most of what i read its just not needed
nutes for soil, grow/bloom that it
(root mass) start in small pots let the soil dry out, leave 1 to 2 days more when soil cums away from plant pot (gap all the way round ), then water
do not feed just ph water, when you have good root mass report in bigger pot and same again
i did this and within 6 weeks from cutting big root mass in 35 ltrs container, with just 6.7 pH water
i use 20% grow 80% bloom though flower but just ph water 3 weeks after repoting
using ec pen helps keep it at 1.2-1.3 ec level
large oscillating fans away from plants or it drys leafs out and stress plant
there should be no guide lines for light to plant distance footprint it has to be based on the strain: northern lights 5 x haze or super lemon haze 600w needs to be 12-14"
3x3 footprint but it would not do big bud any good it needs to be 16"-20" 4x4 footprint
i get good results with basic set up
it is a weed at the end of the day, it do not need much just the correct and consistent temperature, humidity, light cycle, nutes, airflow
keep it basic and you will get top yield/quality bud
Very, very true.
 

bibbles

Active Member
Have enough money on hand to lose your crop, and keep living, if you're trying to make it a source of income.
Realize that DIY is situational - tea brewer? Hydro? Game on! Lights? Fuck off, you're not an electrician, and even then... R&D was put into those high end lights which you cannot accomplish on your own.
Keep a journal, I had an initial grow room idea, and adapted it a bunch of times, now I'm back where I started. If I had followed that, I would have spent much less.
LEDs are bullshit, anyone who tells you otherwise has too much disposable income for it to be relevant advice to the average grower.

>No, don't reply, those awesome gains in efficiency come at a severe loss of square footage covered - if you want to wait a couple years to save on electricity, you probably own a hybrid, and are ignorantly creating significantly more pollution than a normal car, and ignorantly believing you are saving the planet. Get fucked. By a baseball bat. Covered in sand paper.
>But seriously, hybrids? You can drive a new Civic for 12 years before it pollutes as much as a hybrid Civic. You have to drive a hybrid for ~6 years before you start saving on gas (higher initial cost), but you have to replace the batteries after ~5 years (catch 22).
>Fuck you ignorant wannabe hippies with your smug looks of ignorance~!!!

Er... take it bitch, it's free advice.

there should be no guide lines for light to plant distance footprint it has to be based on the strain: northern lights 5 x haze or super lemon haze 600w needs to be 12-14"
3x3 footprint but it would not do big bud any good it needs to be 16"-20" 4x4 footprint
Alrighty, you were too high to make this post, as it makes no god damn sense.


Light footprint is determined by your source/reflector, not your plants.
Distance is determined by heat, some strains can take more, some can take less, but some light sources produce more heat, and some less. And for HID lighting, you have a bevy of options for cooling, which skew things even further...
Things you learned on your own? Looks like you have more to learn, or... should post less high.
>Hoping less high.
 

bibbles

Active Member
If you have a glass on glass slide, if you turn the cashed bowl upside down and suck the ashes into the water, they will prevent resin build up. It will require you change water more often, but will taint the taste less than normal old water, despite being black.grey, which is kind of cool.
 

Jogro

Well-Known Member
What I learned from actual experience? I'll start with stuff that I think is NOT common knowledge now. Remember, 20 years ago, there was no legal medical marijuana, or "rollitup.com" and good indoor growing info was hard to get. The first thing I'd say is that there is an unbelievable amount of BS out there with respect to the cultivation of cannabis, and lots of posters on this board are full of hot air.

Contrary to internet mythology:

a. Miracle gro actually works great as a fertilizer, so long as you pick the right type and use it correctly. Miracle gro soil isn't so great, though.

b. Short exposure to dim light will not cause otherwise stable plants to go hermaphrodite.

c. Aluminum foil does not create "hot spots" that can damage plants. Instead its actually is an excellent reflector, though it does have significant drawbacks of electrical conductivity and fragility, that can make other alternatives better.

d. Plants grown from seeds found in cheap Mexican "schwagg" actually can be quite good.

e. Its perfectly fine to germinate seeds by dropping them in dirt and adding water!



Other things I've learned? Again, these things are probably common knowledge now, but not so much years ago:

-Training and topping actually can increase yields indoors. I think pretty much everyone accepts this now, but there was quite a debate about this two+ decades ago, with some authorities claiming that topping plants just created two colas of half the bud mass each and slowed down their growth to boot.

-Never take outdoor plants indoors; that's a guaranteed way to introduce pests into your garden.

-Landrace sativa strains are a PITA to grow indoors, and don't do well in small setups.
 

JASON79

Active Member
Have enough money on hand to lose your crop, and keep living, if you're trying to make it a source of income.
Realize that DIY is situational - tea brewer? Hydro? Game on! Lights? Fuck off, you're not an electrician, and even then... R&D was put into those high end lights which you cannot accomplish on your own.
Keep a journal, I had an initial grow room idea, and adapted it a bunch of times, now I'm back where I started. If I had followed that, I would have spent much less.
LEDs are bullshit, anyone who tells you otherwise has too much disposable income for it to be relevant advice to the average grower.

>No, don't reply, those awesome gains in efficiency come at a severe loss of square footage covered - if you want to wait a couple years to save on electricity, you probably own a hybrid, and are ignorantly creating significantly more pollution than a normal car, and ignorantly believing you are saving the planet. Get fucked. By a baseball bat. Covered in sand paper.
>But seriously, hybrids? You can drive a new Civic for 12 years before it pollutes as much as a hybrid Civic. You have to drive a hybrid for ~6 years before you start saving on gas (higher initial cost), but you have to replace the batteries after ~5 years (catch 22).
>Fuck you ignorant wannabe hippies with your smug looks of ignorance~!!!

Er... take it bitch, it's free advice.


Alrighty, you were too high to make this post, as it makes no god damn sense.


Light footprint is determined by your source/reflector, not your plants.
Distance is determined by heat, some strains can take more, some can take less, but some light sources produce more heat, and some less. And for HID lighting, you have a bevy of options for cooling, which skew things even further...
Things you learned on your own? Looks like you have more to learn, or... should post less high.
>Hoping less high.
i have air-cooled lights with 6" fan on, none of the leafs cured up at the edges (heat stress) only 27 c canopy level max temp but have bleach leafs at 14" inches (light from plants)
 

bibbles

Active Member
i have air-cooled lights with 6" fan on, none of the leafs cured up at the edges (heat stress) only 27 c canopy level max temp but have bleach leafs at 14" inches (light from plants)
When I was using HPS, I had cool tubes with a 4" fan, and plants never burned/bleached aside from when they grew into the tubes and had direct contact. Like I said, there are more factors. I currently have Super Lemon Haze about 2" from my lights, however they are now induction lights... and one is going to get super cropped today, otherwise it will end up IN the light, I think.

I'm basically agreeing with you, just saying that defining light distance by strain is a little too simple - the type of light, the phenotype, ventilation, growing medium, etc... these all play rolls as well. You can get your light closer to short crop in dirt than you can in hydro/aero depending on where your reservoir is - if it's directly below your plants, you don't want to be heating your reservoir as well.
 
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