Total Noob using teas and I am a believer

VTMi'kmaq said:

I couldn't do it mang I WALKED lmao to the city market in town (trooper for my ladies) 5 miles walk with no meniscus in my right knee(yeah fun fun) View attachment 2809281View attachment 2809282

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Well at least you can find the stuff!!! It is not available to me on the commercial market at all. Out here, molasses is a sticky kind of dry plant matter, you can smell the sugar in it and all as it is a raw material for making sugar. We use it to mix into horse-feeds when their carbohydrate needs start going through the roof, and I have used it as a mulch before too, in little bits of course. I have made other plans to fuel my microbes' breeding, though, which is basically what the sugar is for, it is microbe-food. So instead of molasses I rely on 'bio-foods' which involves me fermenting some fruit to break the sugars down into the most basic, and adding that bio-food to my compost tea. Thanks to the fermentation, I need to bubble a lot longer to make sure all anaerobic bacteria are nicely out-competed by my bennies. Took a while to suss it out properly. But yeah I replace the molasses with fermented bio-foods. Busy making one out of bananas and squash, high potassium content that will turn my general 'veg' tea into quite a nice flowering tea. It's all about feeding the microbes!

Alexander Kush. 3 weeks old. I have a few of these running. They have had my eye since I popped them. They may be the most beautiful plants I have grown. I can't believe this is just over 3 weeks old. Fastest budsets I have ever seen. All phenos very, very close.



Alexander Kush

DAMNNNNN GINA!! gandalf what may i ask are the genetics that make up that beast?

nevermind took my lazy ass to google. sorry

"Alexander Kush"....Cabin Fever Seed Breeders......The Freak:

I was harvesting these seeds the day I got news of our son's death, I know that is a harsh beginning to a description, but that is how this hybrid got it's name, It just felt right and sounded memorable.
This is an excellent pairing, It starts with my best looking male Blue Geez, he was number #7. I used him to dust a couple beautiful, strong, and one of my personal favorites, The Larry cut of OG, I had picked up a few of these at Harborside from Dark Heart Nurseries, DHN does great selection for their clone mothers.
These plants are frost monsters, in fact, that's what I was going to name it first. They show strong trichome production very early into flower, just after 3 weeks or so, the flowers & smaller leaves begin to become encrusted, and it just keeps getting better as flowering progresses, They are hearty and easy to grow, very vigorous in veg, and a very decent yield of AAA+ medicine after about 63 days, let go longer for a more narcotic effect. The odor is very earthy, you can definitely smell the kush/fuel smell and a bit of cheesy sweetness. It's very tasty & smooth when grown organically and after a good cure.
Medical benefits, Chronic joint/muscle/bone Pain, Anxiety, Insomnia or general Relaxation, good Munchie/Appetite inducer.



I just read this over on the mag. I give all credit to JNugg back in 2007 and the Rev for this info. Just a good quick read.


Welcome brothers & sisters.In this installation of Living Organics,we're going to learn about the glory of organic compost teas.But I'm not talking about the Celestial
Seasonings sitting on your grocer's shelf.If you're growing in soil and want to learn how to come closer to maximizing the potential of your genetics,read on.You'll learn how to create,administer,and benefit from a largely underutilized technique that has produced some stellar results for me over the years.


You may recall from some of my past articles the nutritional benefits of soil microlife for cannabis plants in fully organic environments.To get a better idea of the advantages of teas,note that a teaspoon of compost contains about one billion beneficial microscopic organisms.However,a teaspoon of organic tea is populated by about four billion microbeasties.Another advantage is that pot plants benefit immediately from teas.Think of teas as organic steroids for your plants.


Not Just For Roots

Teas are not only beneficial for your plant roots,but also for leaves.I like to spray a bit on the leaves in a topical application.The benefit comes from the "coating" of microbes that you create on the leaf when you spray it.This basically muscles out any bad microbes.Be sure to cover atleast 70% of the leaf surface with the tea-spray,ensuring that you get both the tops and bottoms.


Fungus vs. Bacteria

Most teas are bacteria-dominant.However,in flowering,fungus is a tremendous benefit to your plants.I wouldn't stress this if I hadn't seen for myself what a difference the fungi make.Organic plants are all about fungi when flowering.If the fungi aren't present,there's just no way to push your plants to the limits of yield and quality.In fact,fungi-dominant teas are so good that they're the trick to achieving yields that border on those produced in finely tuned hydroponic environments.

Fungus takes longer to grow than bacteria.In the population race,bacteria always outgrows fungi by a large margin.Thus,when making a fungi-dominant tea,you have to give the fungi a head start.

Fungus plays a special role during flowering,delivering things such as phosphorous to the plants roots.They also breakdown secondary mineral nutrients and ammonium nitrogen available to the roots.Bacteria then convert the ammonium nitrogen to nitric nitrogen.Both varieties of nitrogen,ammonium and nitric,can be used by a cannabis plant and help it grow vigorously.

Nitric Nitrogen:Makes the plants grow shorter & wider,with closer node spacing.

Ammonium Nitrogen:Causes some stretch in the plant.




Nutrient Flexible

Teas can provide your plants with more than good bacteria.If your plant are lacking food or you encounter a problem that you need to correct,teas are an excellent vehicle for infusing your soil with nutrients.

Personally,I utilize teas mostly to provide my plants with fungi.How many nutrients you should add to you tea depends on what you already have in your particular soil (and needs of your plants).I pack my soil with tons of long-term nitrogen,phosphorous,and potassium,so I don't have to worry about the tea playing the role of nutrient provider.



Aerobic vs. Anaerobic Bacteria

The only real gotcha with organic teas is aeration.You must continually aerate your organic teas.Why?There are two types of bacteria that can develop in you tea : Aerobic and Anaerobic.Anaerobic doesn't need oxygen and is nasty stuff.If you ever smell your tea and it stinks of sewer,don't use it!It means that there's anaerobic activity.A good tea that's rich in aerobic activity will smell like very rich soil (the kind that's teaming with earthworms).Anaerobic teas are bad for more reasons than the fact that they literally smell like shit.They can also manifest E. Coli and introduce things like alcohols,which can kill your plants fast.Good aeration isn't just to supply oxygen to your plant roots.It's also a catalyst that teases the microbes and protozoa out of the compost-or earthworm castings,in the case of vermicompost-without killing them.After the continuous bubbling pushes them out,they consume the nutrients and simple sugars in your tea and multiply in a big way (creating the microlife boom that will,in turn,produce a bust,wherein large numbers of microbes will die their carcasses will nourish your plants' roots).


Thou Shalt Not

There are certain varieties of compost and brewing conditions that should be avoided when brewing a batch of organic tea.

Chlorine:I've said it before and I'll say it again:Never use chlorinated water on organic soil!This obviously includes teas.But if your only source of water is chlorinated,don't freak out.Simply drop an airstone in an uncovered container of the water for 24 hours.Your chlorine problems will be gone.

Compost Leachates:This is just compost squeezed and pressed.It's not very nutrient rich.But it'slack of nutrients isn't the problem (remember,using teas as a vehicle for transporting nutrients to your plants is a supplemental benefit).The problem is anaerobic activity,which can spell death for your plants.

Compost Extracts:While these provide more nutrient value than compost leachates,they still contain anaerobic activity (the big "I'm a dumbass" move in the world of organic teas).

Violent Aeration:Aeration is your friend and the key to a potent tea that's teaming with good bacteria.But too much aeration on the scale that provides an excessive amount of agitation and turbulence to the tea-is a bad thing becuase it will actually beat the microbeasties to death!Be gentle with the teas;remember that they're teaming with microbes!

Ultraviolet/HID/Sunlight:Avoid any high intensity lights or sunlight.Instead,use "normal" house lighting,such as florescent or tungsten.However,avoid any light source near your tea brewer.Regular room lighting is fine,but-as a rule of thumb-dimmer is better.




Mother Mary's Tea Recipes

*The measurments below are for a one gallon tea bubbler.When making teas in smaller containers,simply adjust the recipe or dilute the final tea with water.

*In these recipes,brew the tea with an airstone in a one gallon container for 24 to 48 hours.When you're done brewing,strain it through a nylon stocking (for topical/sprayer applications) or a standard strainer (for normal watering applications) and cut it 50/50 using dechlorinated water.

*Fungi-dominant tea compost should be mixed together and kept very wet for three to seven days prior to brewing.Store it high in a room,near the ceiling and in the dark.The microlife and fungi populations will really bloom if you place a heating pad-set to low-below the container (shoot for 68-75 degrees fahrenheit;20-24 degrees celsius).After three days,it will be visibly booming with fungus (what I call "Santa's Beard").Put this in your tea brewer and bubble it (in place of regular compost).

*Prepare for the container to foam up and bubble over.You should place a tray under your tea bubbler and avoid any electrical or other items that may be damaged or unsafe around the bubbling water.



Vegetattive Stage Recipe

* One Gallon Water *: R/O water,rain water,distilled etc. etc.

* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured)1-0-5)*:
Be sure to use only the unsulfured variety.This is because sulfur kills microlife,especially fungus (unless it's elemental sulfur in small ratios).

* One Teaspoon liquid Alaskan Fish Fertilizer (5-1-1)*:
Fungus and bacteria both love fish ferts and go nuts reproducing when it's included.

* One Cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or good outdoor compost*:
Vermicompost provides humates,enzymes,protozoa,nemat odes,bacteria,fungus,trace elements,secondary and primary nutrients.

* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).






Flowering Stage Recipes

* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured) (1-0-5) *:
An excellent source of potassium during flowering;bacteria prefer these simple sugars,whereas the fungus prefer more complex sugars derived from various organic matter.

* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).

* One Teaspoon High Phosphorous Bat Guano (0-4-0) *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.

* One cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or regular compost *:
Good balance of nutrient (trace and secondary).Also a source for microbes and beneficial elements.

* One teaspoon Maxicrop liquid or 1/2 teaspoon water soluble Maxicrop or kelp/seaweed extract (dry) *:
A fungal favorite,this is a key tea ingredient that produces a good ratio of happy fungus.It's also booming with trace elements,some nitrogen,and some potassium.

* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source for phosphorous,magnesium & sulfur.




Fungus Dominant (halfway through flowering) Recipes

* 1/2 cup Earthworm Castings *:
See above.

* 1/2 cup Mushroom Compost *:
This is fungus waiting to happen.A rich source of fungal spores and dense organic matter that fungi like to eat.

* Two tablespoons Powdered,100% Natural rolled oats *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.

* Two teaspoons Kelp Meal *:
I use kelp meal for several reasons.It's organic matter that fungi like to attach themselves to.Fungi love kelp extracts as a primary food source and the rich traceelements and potassium it introduces.

* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source of phosphorous,magnesium and sulfur.


The earthworm castings,mushroom compost,oatmeal,and kelp meal are first mixed together and made very wet.After fungus has grown on this blend,place it in your tea bubbler for 24 hours with some additional liquid (or water soluble) kelp/seaweed extract and Micronized (soft) rock phosphate.
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Sun Maiden phenotypes:

P1:







P2







P3





I am finding out right now which are stomper dom.

Really amazing looking plants mate. Gorgeous deep green, I really dig it a LOT. It is a sad story though... What a day it must've been for the poor fella

Funny thing, I read a seminar by a Filipino guy, he laughs at our 'organic teas' and carries on to explain how in Korea and Japan, only fermented compost extracts are used. Some even to induce flowering. He uses it along with massive doses of Lacto B and indigenous forset microbes... I must find the link and post it here. My point is that both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria exist in nature, and I have a feeling the key lies in balance.

Personally I am playing it safe, but my investigations into it will continue for a long time. I have a lot of tomato plants that are going to stand as test subjects this summer. Not TESTING on my reefer, gods no. But I am going to try all organic methods and see how they work

I agree with you Hamish. I want to read as much as I can from reputable sources and see what everyone has to say. I know for fact that there are a plethora of ways to grow great meds. There are as many ways as there are growers. I think that being able to discern between the good stuff and the bullshit is the key. I know that a huge key is having great support around you which we do. I know that reading Rrog's thread kicked my ass. It made things click for me just as it did for you. That man has the best way to get his point across. Smooth as hell. I love learning as much as I can about this shit. Organics bonds me to the plants and the bugs. I love it.

https://www.rollitup.org/michigan-patients/583341-so-who-here-growing-true.html

My point is that both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria exist in nature, and I have a feeling the key lies in balance.
Couldn't have said it better myself. Obviously this man is paying attention! I totally agree with both of you, while I ADORE reading about previous thinkers finds in the realm of tea's I also try experimenting on my own. I have an instinct like Hamish has where I can lead myself to good shit if I pay attention enough lol!

Hey guys. Just thought I'd pop in and share what I'm working on right now....

My organic runs have been going great, but the one thing I'm noticing is a bit of an early fade. I suspect that this is due to a lot of my organic inputs being leached out of the soil when I water. I think that's the case anyway. To combat this, I have been looking in to something Rrog has turned me on to. Biochar.

In layman's terms, biochar acts and as nutrient storage device of sorts. Due to it's high porosity, it is able to store organic nutrients (that won't be leached out of the soil), and in the presence of microbes in the soil becomes bio available to the plant at various stages of it's development.

Making your own biochar looks to be a daunting task, so in lieu of being that handy (which I am not), you can pick up a bag of *all natural* charcoal such as Cowboy brand. You want to break this up in to small pieces (around 1/2 inch in diameter) and then activate the biochar. This is a crucial step. If you don't activate it, it can have the opposite effect in your soil by stealing the organic nutrients out of your soil and depriving the plant. There are several ways to activate the biochar which include a bokashi method, or by adding it to a compost pile. I chose a third, quicker option. I have taken some alfalfa meal, kelp meal, and some Espoma Garden tone (in large part because it includes beneficial microbes) and bubble this mix in a few gallons of water for 24 hours. Over the course of a couple days you will soak the biochar in this nutrient solution, allowing it to completely absorb this organic, nutrient rich liquid.

At this point your biochar is now charged, and ready to be added to your soil mix. I e-mailed Rrog, and am waiting to hear back from him on how much of this activated biochar is to be added per cf of soil ..... and if the soil should be left to further inoculate before placing a cutting in it.

I feel pretty confident that this will address my early fade issue, and give my ladies everything they need throughout their life cycle. I will update this post once Rrog gets back to me.

edit: Per Rrog, 3-4 cups of charged biochar is added per cubic feet of soil.

Thanks to you gandalf, just got sone tea making equipment and a diy dwc system, just put a blueberry seed in it , going to veg until it looks healthy then slam it in flowering, it is the runt so far.

May11th said:

Thanks to you gandalf, just got sone tea making equipment and a diy dwc system, just put a blueberry seed in it , going to veg until it looks healthy then slam it in flowering, it is the runt so far. View attachment 2809971View attachment 2809972

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• You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to May11th again.
  

I need to get some biochar into my next mix for sure. Nice post Hamish.

god damn those are healthy mine started to get some yellow leaves 3 weeks in

beterthanjeff said:

god damn those are healthy mine started to get some yellow leaves 3 weeks in

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Welcome to The Green Factory, hang out here for a while and yours will start looking just as good. Trust me that's what happened to my girls

Mad Hamish said:

Welcome to The Green Factory, hang out here for a while and yours will start looking just as good. Trust me that's what happened to my girls

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I like that. The Green Factory. I just heard back from some of the guys over at Gage. I have 2 keeper phenos of the Sun Maiden. Possibly 3. Here are a few pictures of the male I am using for F2's. He has the same leaf characterics, internode distance, stem rings, etc. I have him stuffed in a corner for a few weeks until its the right time for him. I have clones of him too.

Some random stuff. I had a fun day messing around. So gandalf do you know anything about co2? Im doing some reading but id like info from trustworthy sources, I have so many experiments going, wish list would be a aeroponic setup to try. Goodnight all, smoking some of my blueberry and im feeling like a log.

So what are your current feeding recipes? My leafs die off from week 5 usually well yellow then die, I heard its just irganic fade, I bareky use nitrogen in flowering.

remineralize.org/ good place for organic heads like us!

May11th said:

So what are your current feeding recipes? My leafs die off from week 5 usually well yellow then die, I heard its just irganic fade, I bareky use nitrogen in flowering.

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I think this is a huge point. Why does early fade happen? Is it normal? Are the plants that stay green up to harvest as desirable or even more so to smoke? I have been wondering this myself. I have been thinking, without any science to back this up, that a full on green plant at harvest must contain an excessive amount of nutes still within the plants. Taste may be of lower quality. What do you guys think?

Whether to let the nutrients deplete in the soil I think is a holdover from hydro. "Flushing" is a goal with hydro and this seems to be an extension of this. It's debated and I have no real opinion other than that's not what happens in nature and not suitable for No-Till / ROLS type of growing strategy.

The plant will naturally enter a degree of senescence on its own, given that it's an annual grass