hammer21
Well-Known Member
Here is a link for the controller i use plug and play and has not missed a beat. built very well http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270852870522
True HP Aero For 2011
- Thread starter Trichy Bastard
- Start date
Yes, if your timer and solenoids are the same voltage you can use the same power supply but you still have to wire it correctly. He was expecting the timer power to be available at the output contacts.
I'm liking that timer! Debating on dropping the $$ on it cause I do need 1 more timer for on of my flowering tents
foresakenlion
Active Member
The Arduino is powerful, but the C+ knowledge and electrical knowledge is daunting to the layman, there are ways to source code for money on the internet, so perhaps we could have something built as a group or individuals.
If it costs more than the SESTOS with the OMRON relays for 25 get one of those, wire it to a 12V battery as John Guest initially suggested, he was very wise, you can get a Renaissance Charger and overcharge your deep cycle to better than brand new, and use that as your backup power solution.
That is not to say you shouldn't get an Arduino but it lacks the software right now for our uses, though it will have major implications for greenhouses. Maybe someone can change that, by building a function library available for a nominal fee to non-programmers, then anyone could make use of the hardware.
They do have some sample code available and I haven't researched the community yet, thanks again for posting about it, everyone should give him a plus for that, those things are a gardeners best friend.
And it occurs to me if you could code a 1 sec on 1 minute through 3 sec on 3 minutes off range and mode into a timer program, you could make a lot of money my friend, simply being the guy there with the code.
If it costs more than the SESTOS with the OMRON relays for 25 get one of those, wire it to a 12V battery as John Guest initially suggested, he was very wise, you can get a Renaissance Charger and overcharge your deep cycle to better than brand new, and use that as your backup power solution.
That is not to say you shouldn't get an Arduino but it lacks the software right now for our uses, though it will have major implications for greenhouses. Maybe someone can change that, by building a function library available for a nominal fee to non-programmers, then anyone could make use of the hardware.
They do have some sample code available and I haven't researched the community yet, thanks again for posting about it, everyone should give him a plus for that, those things are a gardeners best friend.
And it occurs to me if you could code a 1 sec on 1 minute through 3 sec on 3 minutes off range and mode into a timer program, you could make a lot of money my friend, simply being the guy there with the code.
I have a few setups all self controlled by "arduinos", one has been running for around a year now with no major hardware failures which is suprising the "Beta" condition it is in
I already have a ton of code which can be used however people want, it needs some tweaking and a few hours work to package the classes for a library but its really nothing too hard. I also designed some widgets that are geared for our needs, you can run the code below for your timer
on them without a problem and more too!(First one is a pH probe interface with an atmega328 oboard - the Arduino Uno uC, 2nd is a smart relay controller with the same chip onboard, both break out pins for extra usage(I2C,Serial,AIO,DIO,etc...))
then just load some code on and off you go!
Code:
#include <Time.h>
#include <TimeAlarms.h>
#define lightControlPin 1
#define pumpControlPin 2
void setup()
{
pinMode(lightControlPin,OUTPUT);
pinMode(pumpControlPin,OUTPUT);
Alarm.alarmRepeat(onHr,OnMinute,onSec,LightOn());
Alarm.alarmRepeat(offHr,OffMinute,offSec,LightOff());
Alarm.timerOnce(cycleOffTime, PumpOn());
}
void loop()
{
Alarm.delay(1000); //wait for a sec but let alarm have control
}
void LightOn()
{
digitalWrite(lightControlPin,HIGH);
}
void LightOff()
{
digitalWrite(lightControlPin,LOW);
}
void PumpOn()
{
digitalWrite(pumpControlPin,High)
Alarm.timerOnce(cycleOnTime, PumpOff());
}
void PumpOff()
{
digitalWrite(pumpControlPin,LOW)
Alarm.timerOnce(cycleOffTime, PumpOn());
}foresakenlion
Active Member
Those are awesome pieces, thank you for the code you're a gentleman among men.
You should all rep him plus he just saved you potentially thousands of dollars. I think having seen how generous you were I would seriously consider getting one for this, I just can't beat that timer price, this is reuseable though, I'd say either way or both are still a good thing.
How much did it cost to get the pH probe model made? regardless if I use the platform for a timer that has some serious uses, I'm using a nutridip trimeter, EC/PH/TEMP, seems to me you could configure your own multi meter and add a salinity meter, I also have a ReptiTherm Humidity Meter that run a dual relay for two 15 amp devices that could be replaced by an Arduino.
I had an idea for titanium dioxide tube enclosed air scrubber, it needed some automation, this would lend well again. Could you rig a photometer to get a lux reading? Those are really expensive to buy, and IR data again, super expensive. I digress, thank you again though.
You should all rep him plus he just saved you potentially thousands of dollars. I think having seen how generous you were I would seriously consider getting one for this, I just can't beat that timer price, this is reuseable though, I'd say either way or both are still a good thing.
How much did it cost to get the pH probe model made? regardless if I use the platform for a timer that has some serious uses, I'm using a nutridip trimeter, EC/PH/TEMP, seems to me you could configure your own multi meter and add a salinity meter, I also have a ReptiTherm Humidity Meter that run a dual relay for two 15 amp devices that could be replaced by an Arduino.
I had an idea for titanium dioxide tube enclosed air scrubber, it needed some automation, this would lend well again. Could you rig a photometer to get a lux reading? Those are really expensive to buy, and IR data again, super expensive. I digress, thank you again though.
I design and build them myself, kinda a hobby I have been working on for about 6 years now. I have quite a few designs already done and a lot coming down the pipe. soon I will have the eC, and CO2 portions finalized like the 2 you see above. the pH intereface is like 20bucks and the dual relay is about 40 so they really arent too bad on the price. Its all open source hardware too! I have a little energy monitoring unit similar to openenergymon, and some battery controllers for off-road type vehicles.
Well it's been 13 days and I have a working unit running. I settled on an 80 gallon deck box similar but smaller than your's TB. It has 4 net pots in it and 4 nozzles although I'm equally unimpressed with the bio nozzles. Which nozzles are decent I think I read the red ones, anyone have any input on them?
I am currently doing a equipment burn in to work out any problems and to gauge how things will operate.
Hope you're doing well amigo and you got the temp issue worked out. It's 25 here this evening and I'm currently jealous of your location!
go with the dig nozzles .08 they're cheaper and have a better mist! and maintenance is easy. and the JG tubing goes right into them no need for bulk head fittings. just my .02Well it's been 13 days and I have a working unit running. I settled on an 80 gallon deck box similar but smaller than your's TB. It has 4 net pots in it and 4 nozzles although I'm equally unimpressed with the bio nozzles. Which nozzles are decent I think I read the red ones, anyone have any input on them?
I am currently doing a equipment burn in to work out any problems and to gauge how things will operate.
Hope you're doing well amigo and you got the temp issue worked out. It's 25 here this evening and I'm currently jealous of your location!
if you want a sight to order, let me know
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
I read that trichy uses 3-5 drops per gallon. I, never using bleach or h202, went a little light & have been doing 10 drops for every 5 gallons. I am in the learning stage myself, and thought that would be a good place to start.
Mountain High7
Active Member
I believe fatman stated in tree farmers thread to use 1ml household bleach per 10 gal initially (1-2 PPM), then 0.25ml per 10 gal every 24hrs to keep .5 PPM residual. This is for D2W.
Mountain High7
Active Member
Hey Petflora, Where do you get those swivel pieces for your misters? I like the idea of easily being able to redirect mist in the middle of a grow if the circumstances call for it. You use the red tefen nozzles right? Do you go: nozzles, then 1/8" female threaded x 1/4" JG adapter, then swivel piece, then 1/4" JG tubing?
Dickhead- Is it possible to get those DIG's with check valves? Have you also used the red tefen nozzles or just the bio and DIG? I like how the DIG's are cheaper but I think the check valves are important, especially if you are running long lines of tubing after the solenoid. Maintenance shouldn't be an issue if your have a 5 micron filter or smaller and are running a sterile nutrient solution. Just run some bleach through in between crops or remove the nozzles and soak them after every harvest. Salt build up shouldn't be an issue either at such low nutrient PPMs.
Dickhead- Is it possible to get those DIG's with check valves? Have you also used the red tefen nozzles or just the bio and DIG? I like how the DIG's are cheaper but I think the check valves are important, especially if you are running long lines of tubing after the solenoid. Maintenance shouldn't be an issue if your have a 5 micron filter or smaller and are running a sterile nutrient solution. Just run some bleach through in between crops or remove the nozzles and soak them after every harvest. Salt build up shouldn't be an issue either at such low nutrient PPMs.
sounds like a good starting point. what if im recirculating in my veg chamber? hopefully pet will chime in cause my veg tent is similar...
Ill consider this for my flowering chamber. and when do you remove it from your nutrient solution? thank you for that
if your running D2W Id run the solenoid as close as possible to each site, and reduce the amount of line you have to run. in my veg tent im recirculating the nutrients back to reservoir so Im not concerned about back siphon. the tefens that originally came with my set up were the tefens .08 not sure if they have check valves? but the digs perform better so ill save them for back up. and run the solenoids close to each site when flowering. or install JG check valves?...
foresakenlion
Active Member
KDN thanks for the kid gloves too, I'm admittedly stupid when it comes to programming, it's C or C++, not C+ or there's C#, to correct myself.
I am quite excited by the open platform not to take away from the thread, but perhaps you should start your own Arduino thread, it certainly is an interesting topic with a lot more depth than should be fairly inserted into this other topics thread, with due respect.
If you would be so kind as to msg me links to where those two boards can be acquired I am quite interested. Or post here either way.
I am quite excited by the open platform not to take away from the thread, but perhaps you should start your own Arduino thread, it certainly is an interesting topic with a lot more depth than should be fairly inserted into this other topics thread, with due respect.
If you would be so kind as to msg me links to where those two boards can be acquired I am quite interested. Or post here either way.
yeah like has been mentioned 1-3 ppm is good and coincidentally that's the same range for swimming pools so the test strips work well for maintenance levels. just be careful what bleach you use because a lot of them have additives that can harm plants. i mix up a gallon of solution from pool shock, which is calcium hypochlorite then just add what i need for 1-3 ppm. i read cannabis can handle chlorine in the 140ppm range, wow right, so no reason to worry about burning them, but the equipment will corrode if you go much higher.
my system is working well and i have 1 basil and 3 tomato cuttings doing well on their 3rd day.
i ordered 3 different nozzles to see if i like them, since they were relatively cheap. i might order some of those also DH, thanks for the heads up man.
you might be thinking of the JG 1/4 tube to 1/8 fmpt but then again just about any JG fitting will swivel right.