Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

budman111

Well-Known Member
yeah sorry I just meant the appearance of a deficiency... basically the lower foliage is showing necrosis and it's moving up. I can post pictures in a few hours... but will not doing the "water until 20% run off" cause nutrient build up and these problems? My guess is I'm not watering enough and need to start watering till I get the 20% run off so that excess nutrients are getting flushed out...
Dude, try and get some experience, he cant hold your hand all the way lol
 

simisimis

Well-Known Member
UB is not a Robot who can answer same questions again and again. He's here to share, he puts lots of effort and time to it. But people do not want to do their homework and keep asking the questions. If you would start from page 1 and read all of comments till page 197 you would not be asking this again cause by the time you would reach page 20 you would probably know the answer.

C'MON guys, asking without reading is an insult to all his knowledge UB took time to put here over years.
 

Nitegazer

Well-Known Member
The search function is your friend, but there are literally thousands of posts to UB's threads-- it's easy to get frustrated and re-ask questions.

Too bad UB doesn't have a book. It would be a boon to the world outside of RIU. Most books regurgitate the same info, much of it flawed, IMO.

Potential title for UB's book: 'Don't Believe the Hype: It's Just an Annual'
 

Imaulle

Well-Known Member
well I read the first 30 pages of this thread and didn't really find anything to do with my issue... I'm keeping the soil moist at all times... I'm just unsure if I need to do the 20% run off literally every time I water and just how important that is, and are my issues because I'm not doing the 20% run off thing...
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
The search function is your friend, but there are literally thousands of posts to UB's threads-- it's easy to get frustrated and re-ask questions.

Too bad UB doesn't have a book. It would be a boon to the world outside of RIU. Most books regurgitate the same info, much of it flawed, IMO.

Potential title for UB's book: 'Don't Believe the Hype: It's Just an Annual'
Yep.

I'll repeat myself for the 20th time, buy Mel Frank's "MJ Insider Growers Guide". If I was to write a book it would be a carbon copy of his. Why? Because it's based on normal, commercially acceptable, tried-n-true gardening principles - not forum hype.

Necrosis can spell a lot of things - insect or disease pressure, poor root mass, low N..... You can and should keep the soil moist at all times, BUT, if your plant does not have sufficient root and leaf mass to wick off excess moisture, you'll end up with root rot and a dead plant. Photos help.

What's the NPK values of the foods you've been giving it?

Post edit - I looked at your plants posted in a 2010 journal and they look great. What's changed?
 

Imaulle

Well-Known Member
I'm using Foliage Pro at 5 ml / gallon in Pro Mix. I stopped using Jacks because I want a complete nutrient and not have to worry about the micros / Ca / Mg etc. For the last few cycles the plants look perfect up to about 2-3 weeks into flower and that is when everything just starts going to shit... My best guess is I'm getting nutrient build up and it's causing lots of nutrient antagonism or w/e.. Here are 2 pic


IMG_0887.jpgIMG_0888.jpg
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
That is correct.
Something's missing. Your plants look like they are deficient in N but we know FP has plenty of it. I'd go back to the Jack's 30-10-10 and see what happens. Also, I rarely give a plant 5 ml/gallon, usually 2.5 ml

FWIW, like clockwork, most problems such as yours begin around week 3 of flowering and usually it's because folks have been hitting them with bloom foods, which creates a N deficiency with symptoms starting at the bottom and working it's way up.
 

Imaulle

Well-Known Member
hmmm okay. I think I'm gonna try the watering till 20% run off first though so that excess nutrients are getting flushed out. The way I was watering was I'd give about 2 quarts of water for 4 gallons of soil, and there would never be any water coming out of the bottom of the pot so I'm thinking that was really bad and the elements not being absorbed were just piling up eventually causing toxic levels. I have some younger plants that I've been doing that on and they seem to be doing really well with it. and if that doesn't work, then I'll go back to jacks and see how that goes. thanks UB!!
 

mickfanning

Active Member
Uncle Ben, I have seedlings that are about 2 weeks old from sprout and I have DynaGro Foliar Pro and also Jacks Classic 20-20-20; How much should I feed the seedlings if I'm in 100% Coco coir and of which plant food? Some of the seedlings are less green than others.

Thanks!
 

Imaulle

Well-Known Member
You'll need to use Foliage Pro in coco since it's a hydroponic medium meaning you need a "complete" nutrient. I've never used FP with seeds so I'm not sure the exact dose but I would guess very little, like less than 1 ml per gallon. Also keep in mind the cotyledon will provide nutrients for a while before needing to feed them yourself.


Another thing to keep in mind about coco is that it's known to hoard Ca / Mg from the plant so if you get some deficiencies that may be the first thing to check out
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben, I have seedlings that are about 2 weeks old from sprout and I have DynaGro Foliar Pro and also Jacks Classic 20-20-20; How much should I feed the seedlings if I'm in 100% Coco coir and of which plant food? Some of the seedlings are less green than others.

Thanks!
Try 1/2 tsp/gallon of DG and see what happens. At that stage of development they shouldn't need much nutrition.
 

ButchyBoy

Well-Known Member
UB...

I seem to have the same issue every grow. Around day 20 or so of flower I get this happening.
20131119_084146.jpg

Soil is a mixture of Sphagnum peat, steer manure, forest compost, perlite and garden lime. I have fed half strength (22ml per 1.5 gallons) with canna terre vega 2-1-3 every 3rd watering during veg and have switched to (30ml per 1.5 gallons) terra flores 2-2-4 three waterings ago. This started 4 waterings ago so 9 days ago.

I am leaning towards nute burn but am lost at this point.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
UB...

I seem to have the same issue every grow. Around day 20 or so of flower I get this happening.
View attachment 2906261

Soil is a mixture of Sphagnum peat, steer manure, forest compost, perlite and garden lime. I have fed half strength (22ml per 1.5 gallons) with canna terre vega 2-1-3 every 3rd watering during veg and have switched to (30ml per 1.5 gallons) terra flores 2-2-4 three waterings ago. This started 4 waterings ago so 9 days ago.

I am leaning towards nute burn but am lost at this point.
Most likely nutritional. Probably don't need any salts considering the organics, but, it's anyone's guess. 30 ml/1.5 gals. of any food is enough to burn them.

I don't like canna either not that I've used their products. Ever since they started pushing CO2 tabs for soil it left me with a bad impression and then there's the same old bullshit ads and claims that comes with all cannabis products. And, they always get their NPK values ass backwards.
 

ButchyBoy

Well-Known Member
Most likely nutritional. Probably don't need any salts considering the organics, but, it's anyone's guess. 30 ml/1.5 gals. of any food is enough to burn them.

I don't like canna either not that I've used their products. Ever since they started pushing CO2 tabs for soil it left me with a bad impression and then there's the same old bullshit ads and claims that comes with all cannabis products. And, they always get their NPK values ass backwards.
Thanks for the info! I used to grow in water and had the Canna stuff laying around so I thought I could use it up. I will discontinue use and use clear water from now on and see if it helps. :peace:
 

Dboi87

Well-Known Member
Man, that's a tough question. I'm a niche farmer and I'm hear to advise that farmers really don't make money, not unless they're doing huge acreage. Mother nature is brutal and will kick your ass every which way but Sunday. Even nursery ops are tough. An old RIU member's family lost their large nursery biz because of the poor state of the economy. Guess what I'm saying is "don't do it". Get you a well paying job, make some money, buy some land and hobby grow. That's what I do in addition to my niche farming. I grow outdoors and using a greenhouse. Regarding my ag farming, I'm ready to throw in the towel and will do so in a couple of years - I've taken enough of mother nature's beatings and when it comes to the cost of my inputs (fuel, chemicals, capital outlays, equipment, labor, etc.) there's no profit left.

Some of the farm advisors make good money but the jobs are few and far between. Grape growing in Texas can be profitable as there is not near enough grapes to begin to fill the Texas winery demand, but again, mother nature is brutal. For example, the Lubbock area and high plains area of west Texas has thousands of acres of grapevines but no grapes this year due to 3 hard freezes this spring. About a week ago our area got a nasty hailstorm. A friend just lost 5,000 newly planted grapevines....beat down to a pulp.

UB
Man, UB I love when you get a question you actually are interested in. You give some really insightful insider answers.
 
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