Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

jjfoo said:

hotwired,

I guess we would have to know how much radiant heat the glass and fixture absorb to know how much heat is being removed.

with vert you can still opt for cool tubes...

I am basically ducting because I am assuming it is optimal based on the fact that many people do it. I have seen photos of large scale indoor hydro farms that use no ducted lights. The keep them up higher but they have so many lights they overlap and get great coverage. I know things are different in a bedroom.



dave,

isn't radiant heat IR (invisible) you see light in the visible range (after all you are seeing it)
I'm not sure this is right thought, because a laser that is %100 green can will be able to be hot

I'd like to discuss this with some of my physics friends.

Click to expand...

Did you read the wiki page? It answers your question..at least I think you had a question. Im not quite sure.

dave,

sorry just skimmed it the first time

I read that as heat goes up color changes. I've known about this (blackbody radiation). But like the link says even at white hot 99% of the energy is IR (infrared) which we can not see. That is my point. This IR will not be stopped by fans. However, some of the IR will be absorbed by the glass, dirt on the glass, fixture/reflector and this *wil*l heat the air in the hood and yes the fan will remove the heat via hot air. I'm just thinking that that same heat would other wise end up heating the whole room and could be vented via room ventilation.

I'm thinking maybe there is a sweet spot. I'm thinking the larger the hood the better, but this still wouldn't stop the radiant heat that is not absorbed by the glass and reflector. I know it is not practical to have a giant hood anyways. I mean if you had your room diveded in two by a giant piece of glass and ran a super cold ac in the top part (with the lights) the bottom would still get hot and need to be vented. I'm just considering doing it all with the room air. Until I am able to accurately measure this I'm just thinking out loud...

jjfoo said:

dave,

sorry just skimmed it the first time

I read that as heat goes up color changes. I've known about this (blackbody radiation). But like the link says even at white hot 99% of the energy is IR (infrared) which we can not see. That is my point. This IR will not be stopped by fans. However, some of the IR will be absorbed by the glass, dirt on the glass, fixture/reflector and this *wil*l heat the air in the hood and yes the fan will remove the heat via hot air. I'm just thinking that that same heat would other wise end up heating the whole room and could be vented via room ventilation.

I'm thinking maybe there is a sweet spot. I'm thinking the larger the hood the better, but this still wouldn't stop the radiant heat that is not absorbed by the glass and reflector. I know it is not practical to have a giant hood anyways. I mean if you had your room diveded in two by a giant piece of glass and ran a super cold ac in the top part (with the lights) the bottom would still get hot and need to be vented. I'm just considering doing it all with the room air. Until I am able to accurately measure this I'm just thinking out loud...

Click to expand...

I think you are overthinking it. You've got two options. A powerful exhaust fan with no air cooled hoods, or air cooled hoods & ducting with a less powerful exhaust fan.

i understand completely-
my new room is 8x10 and i'm running batwings, i'm hoping an air conditioner will be enough to run a sealed environment, but i'm having doubts
so even if i do have to vent, it will be the whole room, as i don't have the cash for sealed hoods, if neither of these techniques work i may consider building a custom, multi bulb sealed hood

UB,

First, you have been probably THE MOST helpful poster on RUI and I am grateful for all of your great information on the importance of N throughout flowering. I have a few grows under my belt that always resulted in heavy leaf loss into flowering using to many high PK ferts (Tiger Bloom mainly).

For this most recent grow, I read every page of your "how to get 4 colas" thread. I vegged for three weeks in FFOF soil with no nutes and have now been giving two tsps. of grow big (per gallon) for every watering. My results have been very impressive, and she is showing no signs of nut burn or defeciency. She looks very green and healthy, lopping up water sometimes daily.

I know you mentioned that a thirsty plant is a good sign and I am considering just keeping with my current feeding routine. If I have not experienced any ill effects thus far, do you think I can just stick with the 6-4-4 ratio every watering? I know "if it ain't broke don't fix it" may reside here, but wanted your professional opinion.

Every other grow at this point was suffering early leaf loss. Now, not only do I have four colas growing, but not one yellowing leaf at one full month in. (1 week into flower). I only use a small container (maybe a gallon). Should I decrease my feeding or keep up the same one? She seems to like what I am doing so I figure I am good maintaing this regiment? You stated on one of the posts about feeding a high N food the whole time and had a ton of buds.

Thank you for your time and in responding to me

Nightwulf

Nightwulf,

Just my two cents. I used to use the FF nutrients as well, but after reading some of UB's posts i gave dyna grow and jacks classic a try, and haven't had any of the problems the FF nutes used to cause. The dyna grow formula I use is a 7-9-6 that i find is really good for the last few days of veg and the first few weeks of flowering when you want to elevate your P levels, but don't want to push things too much. The Jacks classic come in 2 flavors (well, at least the ones I use). The first is the all purpose 20-20-20 which is a good nute by itself for vegging, and is an imporant supplement during flowering. The second is the bloom booster, which is a 10-30-20 that I start mixing in with the othes around week 3 of flowering. The nice thing about them is that you can pick up all three for about $20 total, and they will last you quite a while.

ed,

you up your P before you flower? Why? I usually wait till the plants start to flower before giving more P. I mean I usually give veg nutes all through veg and the first part (1-2 weeks) of the flower cycle.

this a beginning sign of too much fertilizer right? im using an 8-7-10 with a little n boost to bring it to about 10 7-10. They're @ 5 weeks flower. Ive been giving about 700-900 ppm every watering (w/ runoff). I will back off a little i guess. Here is the affected one's pic and one of my other big mommas who is looking good.

Jiffo,

I do, but not the way you're thinking. My plants only get nutes twice during veg, and the one that includes the slightly elevated P levels is done about 2 days before they move to flowering. Basically all I'm doing is giving it to them a couple days early so that they have time to start absorbing it before i flip the lights. It's a 7-9-6 formula, so all it is really there to do is give them a little bit of a jump start.

Hey there Uncle Ben I have a couple questions about you chemical root pruning technique that was published in Jorge Cervantes grow bible. I recently had the pleasure of meeting Jorge in colo.springs at a sit down descusion he did and it was a topic brought up and my brother and had already been kicking the idea around a little, Jorges enthusiasm when discusing it kinda sealed the deal for us on trying it. My question is this, first where can i find the copper hydroxide and second at what ratio do you suggest mixing it with a latex (i assume is the best) paint? Thanx for your time

Nukulhedd said:

Hey there Uncle Ben I have a couple questions about you chemical root pruning technique that was published in Jorge Cervantes grow bible. I recently had the pleasure of meeting Jorge in colo.springs at a sit down descusion he did and it was a topic brought up and my brother and had already been kicking the idea around a little, Jorges enthusiasm when discusing it kinda sealed the deal for us on trying it. My question is this, first where can i find the copper hydroxide and second at what ratio do you suggest mixing it with a latex (i assume is the best) paint? Thanx for your time

Click to expand...

make it yourself...

Copper(II) hydroxide can be produced by adding a small amount of sodium hydroxide to a dilute solution of copper(II) sulfate (CuSO4 · 5H2O). The precipitate produced in this manner, however, often contains water molecules and an appreciable amount of sodium hydroxide impurity. A purer product can be attained if ammonium chloride is added to the solution beforehand. Nevertheless, it is impossible to obtain a pure product; processes for eliminating impurities lead to the destruction of the hydroxide, giving rise to the more stable oxide, CuO.[5] Alternatively, copper hydroxide is readily made by electrolysis of water (containing a little electrolyte such as sodium bicarbonate). A copper anode is used, often made from scrap copper.

Click to expand...

What about 'jacks classic ferts?

Jacks classic is not organic but will work right? What about ending taste?

Nukulhedd said:

Hey there Uncle Ben I have a couple questions about you chemical root pruning technique that was published in Jorge Cervantes grow bible. I recently had the pleasure of meeting Jorge in colo.springs at a sit down descusion he did and it was a topic brought up and my brother and had already been kicking the idea around a little, Jorges enthusiasm when discusing it kinda sealed the deal for us on trying it. My question is this, first where can i find the copper hydroxide and second at what ratio do you suggest mixing it with a latex (i assume is the best) paint? Thanx for your time

Click to expand...

I've seen it two ways: One as a product called 'spinout', which is pre mixed and very expensive, and
one as Cupro, which is a 53% copper hydroxide powder: Pretty common on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270326336379&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=WXF?&GUID=71a957be1250a02668e773d7ffb1b104&itemid=270326336379&ff4=263602_263622

cupric carbonate:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200437424144&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=WXF?&GUID=71a957be1250a02668e773d7ffb1b104&itemid=200437424144&ff4=263602_263622

More:

Cupric carbonate (CuCO3) mixed in white acrylic paint at 100g/liter of paint and applied to a solid wall or sheet is effective in controlling roots. Higher rates of 500g/liter were damaging to the whole plant, not just the root tips (2)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270326336379&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=WXF%3F&GUID=71a957be1250a02668e773d7ffb1b104&itemid=270326336379&ff4=263602_263622http://warnell.forestry.uga.edu/service/library/index.php3?docID=156&docHistory[]=2&docHistory[]=22

thanks for the 70 pages of knowledge, I learned ALOT.
here is something we use in our sealed rooms for temp/humidity control
http://www.acwholesalers.com/Ductless-Mini-Splits-Wall-Mounted-Single-Zone-s/86.htm

they don't exhaust air, simply recirculates and cools the air in the room. this way it doesn't suck out the c02
they are super high effiecent and quiet. you can also use the drain water as it is pure water that was condensed from water that evaporated in the room. I run a 24,000 btu for 3, 1000 watt bulbs and it works awesome.
I have a more expensive model in my room,cause I am in the a/c business. But you can get a 9000 btu one off ebay with all the parts needed and shipping for under $500
If anyone has any a/c questions, I would be glad to help, After all the knowledge I gained from you guys,It's the least I could do.
thanks UB

Has anyone here tried making their own "Spinout" using the cupric carbonate? I'm going to give it a shot. Great advice everyone!

I bought a bunch of spinout pots; they seem to work great. I got the 1 gal size which is pretty small. Also, the material is pretty flimsy so if you handle them after watering you have to be fairly careful.

I'd use a proven company product like Griffin's Spin-Out or not at all.

Uncle Ben said:

I'd use a proven company product like Griffin's Spin-Out or not at all.

Click to expand...

Very interesting response coming from you UB, From all the posts of yours I've read you seem to be a do it yourself kinda guy and that you are unwilling to mix this yourself is a brain scratcher for me. After reading the msds on cupric carbonate I'm having second thoughts of trying this myself, it will only save $30-$50 by mixing yourself and no telling what side effects could appear if not done correctly either.

On a side note your avatar pic could have been taken in my living room, we have the same colored door and white trim with dark walls, I had to do a double take first time I saw it.

Thanks for all your guidance and patience on this forum!

Rust1d said:

Very interesting response coming from you UB, From all the posts of yours I've read you seem to be a do it yourself kinda guy and that you are unwilling to mix this yourself is a brain scratcher for me. After reading the msds on cupric carbonate I'm having second thoughts of trying this myself, it will only save $30-$50 by mixing yourself and no telling what side effects could appear if not done correctly either.

On a side note your avatar pic could have been taken in my living room, we have the same colored door and white trim with dark walls, I had to do a double take first time I saw it.

Thanks for all your guidance and patience on this forum!

Click to expand...

Life's too short to experimenting with such mixtures whereby too much is toxic, not enough is worthless, carrier doesn't adhere, etc.

Perhaps you and me rented the same house, hah!