well, I already tossed the runts of the litter. 2 out of the three I have left are thriving. The third is a damn beast. I'm sure they'll be fine whether I flip em tomorrow or next month, so let me rephrase the question.Beats the hell outta me. This is your call based on the plant's vigor.
If you put a black bag on a plant directly in the Florida evening sun you'll cook the girl. You may get by with covering in the morning, but it doesn't take long for the sun there to become intense. Notice all the nurseries are shaded for the most part.Also, off topic I know, but what would be the best way to force them to flower outside even though the days will still be long.
We we're thinking of just using a large black trashbag with ventilation holes to cover it up a few hours a day. Would that work?
OK, you seem to need someone to tell you what to do. Upcan, wait a week and then flower. How's that?According to your experience over the years, after transplanting healthy, vigorous plants to larger containers, does it make a shit bit of difference whether you flower right away or wait for the roots to grow into their new larger space?
Black is beautiful, but not in the sun. Opaque mah man, opaque.If you put a black bag on a plant directly in the Florida evening sun you'll cook the girl. You may get by with covering in the morning, but it doesn't take long for the sun there to become intense. Notice all the nurseries are shaded for the most part.
lmao..... Nah, your first response made total sense. I was no longer asking "What should I do?" It was more like "As far as you know, does it make any difference?" Now it's more along the lines of "Do you give a damn?"OK, you seem to need someone to tell you what to do. Upcan, wait a week and then flower. How's that?
UB
If you dont know what a node is then use google. I had to do the same thing when I first read this thread.Your tutorial would make perfect sense if A. I knew what nodes were B. I knew what perfect nodes were, and C if i knew any other the other 1337 6r0x3rz terms you pro's use. I know, i should be in the n00b forum but someone directed me here for pruning/topping methods.
This should clear up any confusion you may have.Thanks, I kind of skipped around the 205 pages of this thread, i could have easily missed key information.
Jesus Christ Rzza. How about you read three posts above mine, and then click on the link in my post.uncle ben please help me understand the definition of TRUE NODE. im under the impression that true node means the first leafset with 3 or 5 fingers. also what is the leaf called thats above the cotyledons? it grows big branches but i dont believe its the first true node. attached is a pic of a w widow that i pinched a week ago. please take a look and tell me which true node i cut above? i believe its the second true node.
Why should I be friendly when you cant find the answers you seek, when its staring you right in the face. We get this same question every day in here because people are either too stupid or too lazy to read. You should be happy someone even replied. UB would have just ignored your question because its been asked one million times already in this thread.
If you only had a few posts, I may have been more cordial with you, but there is no excuse for someone with over 500 posts. If you dont like how I replied then feel free to take the info learned and leave the thread.
listen i know this is gonna frustrate people but im still confused, this picture on top shows cotys then two true nodes. my plants all have cotys then a node where the leaves are single fingered just like a coty.Cotyledons don't have petioles nor are there any dormant buds located at their junction (I don't think). I'll get off dead center and stick some seeds into some dirt and do the experiment I said I was gonna do - start 4 seedlings, let them grow a bit, top 2 above the cotyledons and top the other 2 above the 2nd node. I did this once before but forgot the results. I'm 99% sure nothing happened above the cotyledons. We'll see.
You can play games with auxins all you want, this one is just easiest for me as I don't have the patience to deal with the maintenance of LST or SCROG. All of these training drills is a matter of redistributing auxins. Auxins are hormones that direct cell division and elongation in the terminal leader (apical dominance) while inducing some degree of dormancy in the lateral branches.
I don't think I ever posted these before, but this is an oldie (page one of the 4 Main Cola topping thread) that clearly shows the cotyledons, 1st and 2nd node topped for 4 main colas.
top view:
side view:
Hope this finally ends the confusion.
Tio
what is your question?listen i know this is gonna frustrate people but im still confused, this picture on top shows cotys then two true nodes. my plants all have cotys then a node where the leaves are single fingered just like a coty.
because that's how they grew. it's nature it happens. mine often do the same thing. nothing unusual or to worry over.how come the first node on my plants dont have a regular 3 fingered leaf? they are single fingered, and they have cotyledons also.