Using Milk to get rid of Powedery Mildew during Flower?

I have recently been having some issues with powdery mildew. It first showed up on some clones that I picked up from a dispensary, and now it has gotten to my flower room Its not too bad, just some spotting here and there on the leaves.

The clones have been getting a good spray down every two days with a neem oil concentrate and water mix (1 tsp to 1/2 gal water). I sprayed the Flowering plants about a week ago with neem oil as well. But I would rather not hit them with neem again as they are like 2 weeks (Im guessing, they have been flowering for 6 weeks) away from harvest.

I have read that a 1-9
(Fat Free)Milk/water mix will kill powdery mildew and is also good for the plants, so I have sprayed them with it twice now. I couldnt really find any info about using Milk/water on cannabis and on flowering plants in particular. Is there any downside to doing this?

Also, as soon as I spray them I have been turning the fan on full speed and raising the lights up as to not burn the plants. After they are dry the fans all go off (dont want to spread the mold) Any tips on fighting this powdery mildew?

Thanks RIU

i know baking soda can be used it raises the ph of the plants surface. p.mildew cant live if ph is too high. milk has a ph of 7 so it probably works the same way. peace.

I am using a modified "Cornell Formula" (originally 1T hort. oil, 1T soap (not detergent!) 1T baking soda/1Gal water) I use hemp seed oil (you could use veg/canola/light olive etc) and Dr. Bronners Hemp-peppermint soap for plants in flower. Mix into a paste and add water, shake periodically while applying. I use the hort oil now in veg as it is easier to mix. Bugs do not like it either.

Also I cannot remmember the name, but homedepot has an OMRI certified organic premixed which uses seseme oil (I think) fungicide. I think this is good for up to day of harvest...but we don't wash out buds.

I would eat or smoke my modified cornell. works good but needs to reapply ~every 2-3 weeks or it will creep back.

i use a product called serenade its a species of bacteria(bacillis subtilis) that kills p.mildew safe for people and pets.

bicycle racer said:

i use a product called serenade its a species of bacteria(bacillis subtilis) that kills p.mildew safe for people and pets.

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I'm going to look into that serenade, I read on a few sites that you can use the stuff right up until the day of harvest. Have you ever tried this? Did it effect taste or anything else? Thanks for the help by the way.

I have seen the product and heard good things. I shied away from it because I did not want the bacillus in my butter.

This is the product I could not remember the name of. I think I am going to get it and save the hort oil for ornamentals.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100607913&N=10000003+90012+500493+4294926306

Hayduke said:

I have seen the product and heard good things. I shied away from it because I did not want the bacillus in my butter.

This is the product I could not remember the name of. I think I am going to get it and save the hort oil for ornamentals.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100607913&N=10000003+90012+500493+4294926306

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I get this:
"The product you are trying to view is not currently available."
when i go to that link, whats the name of the stuff?

wowzerz said:

I get this:
"The product you are trying to view is not currently available."
when i go to that link, whats the name of the stuff?

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It is called Organocide it is $15USD here is what it says:

Organocide is an effective and earth-friendly option for control of insect and disease pests in the lawn and garden. Organocide is an OMRI (Organic Material Review Institute) listed pesticide effective on small, soft-bodied insects, scale insects, mites, and certain fungal diseases such as black spot on roses and powdery mildew. It is comprised of 100% food grade materials, has no re-entry time, and can be used with confidence around the home and even on edible crops. Organocide has multiple modes of action for increased effectiveness and, when used properly, has a greatly reduced risk of leaf burn than other similar products. Organocide makes a great choice for the health and environmentally conscious consumer who does not want to sacrifice performance when "going green".

• Organocide provides an effective insect and disease control option for those who demand performance without using harsh chemical pesticides. Organocide is proven in university trials and, more importantly, in the real world to get results.
• As an insecticide, Organocide works primarily by suffocation, without the use of toxic poisons. It is generally soft on beneficial insects & also provides repellency to egg-laying females. Organocide provides quick knockdown of labeled insects pests.
• As an organic product, Organocide is very safe for use around people, pets, & for the environment. Organocide also has a high degree of plant safety; there is a greatly reduced risk of leaf burn than other products in this category, even in hot weather.
• Organocide's dual insect & disease label makes it a very useful and versatile pest control tool. In addition to insects, it provides excellent curative & preventative disease control of common foliar diseases such as powdery mildew & black spot on roses.

does it kill the worst of all cannabis problem causers the mighty brown thrip?

bicycle racer said:

does it kill the worst of all cannabis problem causers the mighty brown thrip?

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I believe so. But not the larval stage when they live in the soil. These f@ckers keep coming back for me also. I am using predatory nematodes for this, but so far I do not notice a difference. 1T/gal of the Dr. Bronners kills them. I forgot to adjust the pH and nearly killed a couple, but I could see the larvae dead on the bottom of the pots after they crawled out. The peppermint oil does it. I am torn between dosing again with nematodes or using the soap and probably kill the nematodes also. This works for fungus gnats, but they come back fairly quick, but I am sick of these little bastards. My ladybugs seem to be eating thrips as they are actively patrolling top and bottoms of leaves and I can not find any little crawlers (they are there, I know).

DKskater has had success with incesticidal soap for thrips. Pyrethrum works for above soil level, then you have to repeat the application in 3-5 days to catch the next batch. This stuff smells like a powerful insecticide and I do not like to use it...but it will leave your garden devoid of any non-plant life. It is from crysanthemums, but I believe it is a sythesized molecule. You are not supposed to enter the room for a certain amount of time, cover all skin and hold breath or use mask. It breaks down to a totally harmless molecule in 2 weeks, but I live with my plants.

Spinosad (another bacillus) works for all but in soil. Some have luck with bacillus thuregensis (sp?) for larvae of gnats at least, but it did not do shit for me...I think they are now immune to many remmedies as the guy at the hydro shop told me if I wanted to get rid of fungus gnats for good, to use some super pesticide in a 15# bag with all sorts of warnings...but it works...no thanks.

I am going to try the organicide for the PM and use it every 3 weeks even in flower if needed.

cool thanks. fungus gnats i have had but that grow yielded very well so i dont think they do that much damage compared to mites or some species of thrips let your soil dry out consistently between waterings that helps for gnats. i personally feel thrips are the worst easily and by far in rate of damage and quickness of infestation. i have sprayed with pyrethrum and neem but they were back quick. i did a bunch of research and it seems spinosad as you mentioned is the best approach and most effective. i have been spraying with a spinosad product(green light) for 2 days and already there is a noticeable improvement i find living thrips but they are near death and dont run or fly when im near. i have heard you can soil drench with spinosad as well to kill larvae of the deadly thrips. on a side note the bacteria in the spinosad products were found in a rum distillery in the bahamas by a vacationing scientist in the 80's it has been found no where else in nature and was subsequently named a new species interesting i think.

The thrips came back from 1 shot of pyrethrum, then the spinosad. they have comeback but have not done much damage. I see a few silvery tracks, but not big piles of shit. The grow that got the thrips 1st yielded normal with some loss of foliage from the spray, but I caught it fairly early.

I let my pots get pretty dry, but coco is so airy it allows them to live deeper. I actually have more in the bottom than the top. They seem to be worse in coco than soil. Plants don't seem to mind much.

yeah i wish i had gnats instead. i have dealt with mites always caught them early and eliminated with full coverage neem or pyrethrum sprays. this western species of thrips though is just so quick to do damage and im attentive to my plants and have good vision 48 hours is all it takes. by the way currently im outdoor which makes things more difficult to control. one thing i have noticed is that my hempy grows in full flower have a touch of mites but no thrips odd. i have heard thrips prefer fresh new growth so that could be the reason only my soil veggers are attacked or maybe the larvae cant live in perlite and vermiculite who knows irritating. some sprouts are damaged to the point that i may cull them.

bicycle racer said:

i have heard thrips prefer fresh new growth so that could be the reason only my soil veggers are attacked or maybe the larvae cant live in perlite and vermiculite who knows irritating. some sprouts are damaged to the point that i may cull them.

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They sure as hell do not like my 400W. There was much more damage on lower leaves when I had my big problem. I thought the black spots were fungus, so they got a head start. I saw one in veg the other day and sprayed half-assed with spinosad...I can not find any amd the ladybugs are very active. I did some yard work today and there was PM and some black mildew/mold in the bushes I trimmed...hope I did not bring in anything.

I wish I could do an outdoor...BAD!

Just put some fresh porn in the last page of my journal

yeah one cool thing with spinosad is that it is species specific and does not kill all beneficial insects. yeah bringing in fungus would suck if your humidity is under control i would not worry to much.

for fucksakes... yet ANOTHER post where a question is posed and a bunch of people get on here and tell you what worked for them, even though it has nothing to do with the original question. come on man. Maybe the poster and the readers want to know about the MILK MIX, not serenade and all that other shit everyone already knows about. I mean, Milk is nothing new, especially 4 years after the last post in this thread. But its shit like this that has fucked up the fucking message board scene especially on Rollitup... PLEASE REFRAIN FROM SIDETRACKING THE POST! I know this message is sidetracking, but you idiots deserve it. I am about to spray milk and water on my plants. No thanks to the wank that made this thread for never telling anyone how it worked out and fuck off to all the trolls and advertisers that answered with advice on other products/methods. You are all whack.

milk is a natural fungicide, it will keep the p.m away for about a week, just like all the other products mentioned here. you need something systemic to cure the plant, and then remedy the environment which is causing it in the first place.
the reason for using non-fat or 1% is to keep the dried milk from smelling up your room.

milk an soil dont go together thats all i can say