vegetable glycerin tincture for tank system e-cig?

Grow Goddess · Feb 8, 2014

Decarboxyla said:
just a quick reply about bho, my main concern is the possibilité of polymerization, and is why i haven't really experimented with this kind of extraction, and yes pro tanks are not so good !! the nautilus however is another world, the i clear not a bad vape apart from the tank cracking with certain juices !

Please show some proof. I have read on many forums and even comments that the original innokin products made with plastic are some of the only products that do not crack or melt when using certain e-juice. Like cinnamon. I really don't recommend the iClear 30 for e-ciggs. The extra metal with the rotatable tip absorbs teh sweet flavorings. Sometimes it can give off a sour hit, but that is only the 30 top fed unit. I have only heard that their units do not crack or melt. Unless it is an imitation. They are out there.

Grow Goddess · Feb 8, 2014

Decarboxyla said:
the temperature of your e cig is no higher than 250°F propylene glycol evapoates at 210°F wich will carry thca as the temperature is no way high enough to transform thca to thc you can argue with scientiffic facts if you want, the Decarboxylation (and yes that is the true name) will occur in the e cig atomizer at about 5% of its poential strength !!! there are many ways many stories abot how to get hi with an e cig the decarb shown above has been done in high level scientific labs and has proved to be the most successful way !

This did concern me, so I only made a small amount of QWISO, with no heat. I added my PG USP and vaped it like decarbed RSO. It offered a very potent buzz. One hit and I fel t it.
Yes, you are probably right scientifically, but there is something missing from the equation. So that would be false information.

Let's go to the correct information. PG USP must lower the required temperature to convert THCa into THC (decarbing). Did they take PG USP into account when the stucy was done?

This is not to you personally, this goes out to the science community: Wisdom far outweighs science. Science can be used as a tool in many ways. To hide the truth, lie, and to deceive. Maybe not in this case, but just about everything else in our lives.

Grow Goddess · Feb 8, 2014

Decarboxyla said:
Get into science !! Easy Steps to Decarboxylation

Consumer grade ovens are not always exact so I decided to shoot for a decarboxylation temperature of around 240° Fahrenheit. This should produce quick results without losing any medicinal potency. 30 minutes seemed like a nice round number for a first test and should give the kief and trim plenty of time to come up to temperature.
Kief has a tendency to ball up in the bag which could lead to uneven temperatures and possibly uneven decarboxylation. Before I put it in the oven, I loosened up the clumps with a fork. While most of the trim was already fairly broken up from its time in the kief tumbler, there were still some budlets in the trim that I wanted to break apart.
A few minutes in the Cuisinart works great for breaking up trim and also works well on buds if you have a bunch of joints to roll. The static from the plastic separated out some low grade kief which loosely clung to the lid of the Cuisinart. I brushed this back into the trim.
I placed a pizza stone on the middle rack of the oven and set the oven dial to bake at as close to 240° Fahrenheit as possible. Ovens lose a lot of heat when the door is opened and sometimes the temperature spikes with little explanation. The pizza stone absorbs the heat and helps maintain a constant temperature. In order to track my temperature accurately I used a thermometer with a heat resistant cord. I placed the thermometer on the pizza stone and the digital readout on the counter next to the oven where it could be monitored.
Once the temperature reached about 240° and did not appear to be increasing I placed a small Pyrex bowl of kief and another of the trim on the pizza stone. I set my timer for 30 minutes and continued to monitor the temperature. A Pyrex lasagna dish would be perfect for larger quantities. As expected, the temperature fell a few degrees from opening the door and then came back up to temperature. Throughout the half hour the temperature rose and fell several times for no apparent reason but stayed between 229° and 245° Fahrenheit.
After 30 minutes I removed both Pyrex containers with an oven mit and placed them on the counter to cool. Both the kief and the trim had noticeably fluffed up and gave off a slightly roasted scent. I took a few grams of each and packaged them for lab testing.
I returned the Pyrex dishes to the oven and set the timer for another half hour. I was pretty sure that 30 minutes had been enough to mostly decarboxylate the kief and trim, but just in case I wanted a backup test at a full hour. Either way I had to be patient and wait a few days for the test results to come back.
Results of Decarboxylation Experiment

The following charts show the results of the 30 minute and 60 minute decarboxylation experiments. Also included are the lab results from testing done prior to any artificial decarboxylation to establish a starting point. Note that because of the age of both the kief and the trim, decarboxylation had begun to take place to some degree naturally. This may not be your starting point, but should not affect the results of the experiment much.
Kief

Compound Before Decarb 30 Min Decarb 60 Min Decarb
THCA 24.5% 2.6% .1%
THC 3.8% 25.4% 25.5%
CBDA .6% .3% .3%
CBD 0% 1% .1%
CBN .4% 1% 1.4%
Moisture 0% 0% 0%
Total Cannabanoids 29.3% 30.3% 27.4%

Cannabis Trim

Compound Before Decarb 30 Min Decarb 60 Min Decarb
THCA 6.5% 2.9% .2%
THC .6% 4.8% 6.9%
CBDA .2% .2% .1%
CBD 0% 0% .1%
CBN 0% 0% 0%
Moisture 3.4% 4.5% 0%
Total Cannabanoids 7.3% 7.9% 7.3%

Testing provided by SC Labs
As you can see from the two charts, 30 minutes was not quite enough to completely decarboxylate either the kief or the trim. At 30 minutes the kief was about 90% decarboxylated but the trim was only about 60% decarboxylated. This difference is likely because the trim had a higher starting moisture content. After 60 minutes however, both keif and trim samples were close enough to 100% decarboxylation for my satisfaction.
So there you have it. 240° F for 60 minutes should be enough to decarboxylate any cannabis with a reasonably low moisture content. For material with higher moisture content, the time can be extended but the temperature should not be increased. If you are concerned about losing organic compounds, lower heat can be used but the time should be extended to compensate

Not intending to pick on you, and I do like the chart you have provided by SC Labs. It is a great opportunity to provide the truth. Even a dang lab test and I must defend the truth. I don't believe the lab intended to provide false information nor do I believe the poster intended any false information.

Let us look at the THC. It shows before decarb .6% okay, 30 min decarb then 4.8%. That is when it should have been stopped. That is when damage to the product started to take place. Now it would be the same if you were making oil. Actually I am more referring to oil and this chart is a good example.

At the 60 minute decarb the material has been tarnished, and damaged. The proof is right there on the chart. The total cannabanoids from the 30 min decarb is 7.9% but at the 60min decarb, raising the THC to 6.9% the total cannabanoids is only 7.3%. From what I recall, THC is a cannabanoid. How can this be? I know how, the material has been damaged at 60 minutes. At the 30 minutes the product needed to be preserved and allowed to naturally decarb from that point. I am sure it is much quicker with buds vs. oil placed into a sealed container. If this product would have been allowed to achieve its fullest potential, I am confident that the THC would have exceeded 7% and the CBDs would have exceeded 8%. I know this to be true, at least when it comes to oil.

So here you have a lab result that shows you how to damage your product. It provides 100% correct information, which is very misleading because it does not provide any experience in actually making and consuming the product. How I made my discovery is with my oil. I never got into cooking cannabis. It has been over three years now and it has been nothing but oil for me. I have learned that if I gently purge my oil and allow it to cure for 6 weeks in a cool dark place, the potency can nearly double.

Just an example of how lab results can be very misleading.

I hope I am making sense. Sometimes it is not easy to really say what you are trying to say in typed responses.

Edit: as you can see the results I spoke of are the same with the kief and trim charts. Decarbing at its highest potential is a little bit more complex than just applying heat.

Decarboxyla · Feb 9, 2014

hi, i have used and still have the i clear 30 s and personally have not had any problems, but being a polycarbonate tank, it's susceptible to certain juices, such as hot cinnamon (health alerts on that one), i don't use such concentrates, do you ? but i am quite fond of flavour arts cinnamon ceylon, in all forums you kinda see good sides bad sides, and hear reportes about all kinds of crap, what i said about the i clear cracking was not personal experience just reading experience, whilst still on the tank topic the pro leak tank, i find quite good for thicker tintures and juices vg base ! i totally recomend the nautilus, nothing comes near it (for tanks) imo of 5 years of vaping !!
So lets get down to this chart, and i truly appreciate your comments, i posted this chart as i and friends (we) have tried many variantes, from no decarb, to 2 hour lower temperatures !! using Spirytus 96.5% vodka, tried chlorofil with quite good results, glycerin (no comment), and even acetone and ripped out every molecule there was, with the uncarbed tintures there was a quite recognisable difference in terms of hit, taste wise i found it easier and softer for me the sign of less thc, the 2 hour low temperature decarb was to much ! burned taste with little effect, you are quite right on your assumption of 30 mins, exactly my beleifs, but the chart indeed shows correct information and as my experence goes the one hour decarb seems to work the best, as to why, well science is not everything, i agree on a purge and have noticed a fine difference !!
Here in europe i have not come accross BHO or QWISO i am sure they are there but to be honest i am a light smoker ! turned to the e cig to reduse as many toxins as possible, i grow organic, the idea of using butane no thanks i don't have access to ultra high purity butane and that does not come in tins at the local store or on ebay!! However if i was to do BHO etc and pay for the higher grade butane i would also invest in the Tamisium Essential Oil Extraction method maybe a little expencive but more the way to do things ! oh and as for the temperature yes pg 80 vg 20 usp, it was recorded with a thermal image at 150°C 3.7v 2ohms, i have done the same test with a probe at 2 ohms 3.2 to 5v pg vg mix and got results from 110 to 180°C not that the probe is very accurate!
As for the mixing problems we have encountered i think it must be a problem with the oils we used, not very reliable sources !! and for that i must apologize! however the fact that thc is not soluble in glycerines due to there polar molecular structure is right, the fact you mix bho with pg shows the signs of clathrates, if anyone can inform me it would be appreciated. For the time being i will stay with the decarb alcohol freeze method, with a little homogeneous mixing to finish, it works and its clean free from terpenes , the Tamisium is however getting very tempting !!!!!

Grow Goddess · Feb 10, 2014

I must agree about the VG not mixing with cannabis concentrates. Honestly, I can only think of one possible reason why somebody would want to use VG. That would be to dilute their concentrate so it is not as potent? Otherwise, I cannot think of any reason what so ever beyond that. When it comes to e-ciggs, the only purpose of the VG is as a base. When it comes to cannabis oils, that is the base product, and in a way it replaces the VG. Forget about nicotine, you can order it all without nicotine, VG is necessary for e-ciggs, that is why I consider it to be the main base product. What the hell would I want that diluted into my concentrate for! Using the correct equipment with high quality extracts, you won't taste any PG USP what so ever. I know I have not. Excluding plastic and glass, especially glass. When you go to metal, it hides all of the sweetness of the PG USP. The thicker the metal, the better. For some reason, with my strains, the metal in the iClear 30 and 30b does not absorb or mask the nice sweet flavor of my concentrate. Don't get me wrong, I do like some of the plastic clearomizers. Most of my oil I put into an iClear16 (not all). It has a really nice candy peach flavor. A lot of that I believe is from using Strawberry Cough. Like you, I have not tried BHO, at least I have not made any, I did try a sample and was not impressed. I have tried samples of oil made like mine and I was also not impressed. So, I can't blame BHO, but the cost to make it properly, well, at least in my opinion, is to use the 99% pure industrial tank butane not to mention the other items required, now that can take you into the thousands of dollars. I have not seen any BHO product that exceeds what I can do with alcohol and a freezer. Now a cryo freezer would be awesome. Now that is an investment I may consider! It is amazing what you can do with a little dry ice, but you must be careful, dry ice can be dangerous. Hey man, let's just get this straight, I am rambling here, and I am totally baked! LOL I just watched a video last night and it showed how to make a cross joint, I never saw that before so I had to hurry up and make one myself. I quit smoking, but I gotta try a cross joint so I can say that I did. It was pretty cool man and the roach today was killer. The main stem was TGA Qush, short heavy indica phenotype and my own personal 4-G, very old bag seed strain was the horizontal cross. That sucker is down to a little stump now! :grin:

It was pretty good.

The video is on facebook so I don't know if this link will work, but here you go. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=138073306385842&set=vb.136940799832426&type=2&theater

First try and S U C C E S S !
It was just something different and kind of cool. I don't see myself going out of my way to do it all the time.

Oops! went a little off topic here!

:bigjoint:

Edit: Cool, I guess the link does work. Just watched the video again, and it seems I left out one part, I suppose I would have anyway and that was the piece of cardboard at the end. To each their own.

XRE · Feb 11, 2014

Grow Goddess said:
Please show some proof. I have read on many forums and even comments that the original innokin products made with plastic are some of the only products that do not crack or melt when using certain e-juice. Like cinnamon. I really don't recommend the iClear 30 for e-ciggs. The extra metal with the rotatable tip absorbs teh sweet flavorings. Sometimes it can give off a sour hit, but that is only the 30 top fed unit. I have only heard that their units do not crack or melt. Unless it is an imitation. They are out there.

All innokin plastic tanks will crack with certain juices. Natural citrus, hot cinnamon, anise flavorings, etc. The type of plastic tanks that don't crack will have a frosted cloudy look to them, although there aren't that many around these days since most manufacturers are finally switching to glass for everything.

For people looking for the best performance using concentrates out of an ecig style device, looking into rebuildable atomizers is the way to go.

All the tanks people are using for concentrate vaping are cheap chinese tanks, with little coils and wicks which don't perform that great, and gunk up quickly. They have come along way since when clearos first came out (clearos being the name for that category of atomizer)

The power levels most people are vaping their concentrates is aroud 8 watts of power. All my ecigs are currently running around 30-50 watts of power. Those I use for nicotine not concentrates, but my concentrate rig is running at around 20 watts of power, and delivers hits that are absolutely mind blowing.

Look into rebuildable dripping atomizers, called an "RDA" in the ecig world. There are a million different models available, but many that are good quality and easy to work with can be had under $20. With these you actually wrap the coils yourself, which gives you the ability to improve performance past any commercially available product.

It takes a bit of investment in time getting the hang of it, but there are many tutorials on youtube that make it easy for new people.

To achieve the high power levels I talked about earlier you need a mechanical mod, which has no wiring or boards, and just supplies straight power from the battery. You also need a battery rated for high-amp draw, I use Sony VTC4s that can handle 30 amps, and have a rated capacity of 2000mAh.

If you don't want that hassle, you can still use rebuildables on APVs (like the itaste SVD shown earlier) for power levels of 12-20 watts depending on the model and configuration.

This was an easy transition for me since I've been heavily involved with ecigs for several years, and I already had the skills and knowledge required to get a high-performance device. Once I figured out the easy mix of PG, PGA (alcohol) and BHO everything came together.

Not my video, but it shows the type of vapor production the higher-end stuff can give you. Imagine that vapor laced with BHO instead of Nicotine and you start getting the idea. His clouds are towards the end, no need to watch the whole video (although it does show the process of rebuilding, albeit more complex than it needs to be)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1orqmjjgMMA

Decarboxyla · Feb 11, 2014

i went through a few years of wrapping coils with a fogger most of the time using Kanthal wire, fun cheap, easy to do low ohms, keeping in mind that standard e go type batteries won't work under 1.5 ohms so a better mod is required ! I stopped about a year ago as my nicotine craving was no longer there, i started at 36mg working my way down to 5mg in the space of 3 years, i was a 2 PAD smoker for 30 years, you can imagine ! i used a vamo mod and went for the evic not so long ago, works good although some silly gimmicks, puff counter ???
The more vg the more vapor but less taste, some people create allergies mainly to pg, personally no probs, i mix depending on my juice, normally around 70 30, my favourite juices are still tobacco "tribeca clones", i use pure tobacco absolute in nearly all my recipes, but sometimes go for irish coffee ect and fruit juices...
Funny i never thought i would ever stop smoking joints i have a passion for growing, 100% organic ! and living in the south of france a good climate for outdoor growing, i started getting into tintures when i stopped smoking and finally stopped the joints a few years ago ! health wise its done wonders, and with the hit i get from my extracts even if it isn't quite the same i am happy with that, at 50 years old i feel fitter than when i was 20 !!!!!
When making a thc juice i evaporate all the alcohol , leaving a thick dark oil, the oil i then mix with ethyl maltol crystals, quarter tsp per 2g oil and mix that with 2ml pg at low heat ! then homogenize, i find 2 or three drops of this solution per 5 ml juice fine for an all day vape, the evenings well depends on the day, but the skys the limit "lol" my juices do seperate after time but in general i make very small quantities and if need be a remix works..
you talked about batteries for me the panasonic or the sanyo 18650 being a so called 3400mha gives me everything i need and again the Nautilus is a dream imo the best tank on the market !

Decarboxyla · Feb 11, 2014

propylene glycol (C3H8O2) boils at 188°C it will decompose around 250°C
Now what is the idea behind the e cig ? for me and millions of others to kick the killer, tobacco ! looking on youtube you can see those huge quantities of vapor (mainly vg), WHY ?? i suppose it's like most things everyone wants better, or what they think is better, kinda kidish, look how much vapor i can make, or you can use the variable voltages, watts, ohms to concerve battery life and improve taste, to heat the coils at temperatures over 250°C can create toxins (acrolein is one major concern), as well as those huge clouds, not only that it will destroy the taste and kill your battery, why ?? Same story with everything, cars that exceed the speed limit 3 fold not good for the enviroment pocket or health ! The mods are great but not to showoff, clouds of vapor doesn't mean good...

Grow Goddess · Feb 11, 2014

@XRE:
I watched half of the video, no need to see the rest.

One reason is I see no purpose for a giant vapor cloud, actually it is kind of obnoxious. I realize many are in to that, and it could somewhat be considered a sport (competition). I am perfectly content with a simple iClear 16 and a eGo C Twist VV battery. Actually, I prefer the iClear 16 from Hong Kong, those are crystal clear, unlike the American version. Again, I see no proof that the American version cracks. The American version is smoked compared to the Honk Kong ones. I have heard people that use the cinnamon e-cigg oils state that the plastic on the iClear tanks have not cracked like all the others have. Even with the other oils that commonly crack plastic. I cannot say whether or not that is true, I don't use flavored e-cigg oils that commonly crack the plastic. I would be afraid to.

Back on topic, somewhat, The unit in the video is completely unacceptable for e-cannabis, period. Why? All of that wicking. The point of switching to the iClear 30b (bottom coil with pretty much no wick) is so I don't waste half of my concentrate. Using the unit in the video, you would waste 3/4 of your concentrate because it will get trapped in the wicks. Either way, you have to clean your wicks, unless you want your vape to taste like crap.

Dude, you need to try a regular MOD like an SVD with your concentrate converted to e-cannabis oil. Preferably top shelf oil that has been winterized. Then you will understand where I am coming from.

I have to agree with Decarboxyla for the most part. I think mechanical vapes have a lot of potential. I may even design and build my own.

When it comes to e-cannabis, I prefer very minimal to zero vapor exhale. At least with my concentrates and my equipment. That is when it tastes the best and provides me with my most preferred buzz.

Thanks for sharing the video, it was interesting.

XRE · Feb 11, 2014

Totally understandable position, different strokes for different folks and all that

Before getting into rebuildables I used VV/VW APV with commercial attys, but for my nicotine vaping purposes it did not suffice and the performance I got from RDAs finally allowed me to quit cigarettes.

The beauty of rebuildables is that you can configure it any way you like. I actually have built some totally wickless coils for the sole purposes of solid concentrate vaping, vaped great but you run into issues with the conentrate running off the coil once it becomes liquid due to the heat. I had some ceramic cups that I pulled from old CE2 clearos, built a coil inside, and it catches all the run-off and vapes it up.

When I made concentrate liquids I first dissolve it in ethanol, and then mix the ethanol in with PG. Perhaps this step more completely dissolves the concentrate instead of simply keeping it in suspension, which allows it to bypass the wicks better, not sure, but I haven't had any issues with severe gunking or anything. It gunks up quicker than my nicotine juice but that's to be expected.

There is also a new product in the ecig world called vapin donuts. They are tiny donut shaped ceramic heating elements. These seem to be the best option yet for concentrates- no (exposed) metal, and non-conductive.. I haven't tried them yet, they are extremely new and the initial sample run is sold out, and it's going to be months before the full scale production hits and these become widely available. Seems to hold promise though.

I use a dripper for my concentrate fluid, and I have very stubby silica wicks that barely go past the coil, so it's very similar to the coil head in your clearo, just more powerful. I don't use mine as a way to stealth-consume bho or anything, just a different high and different vape experience, so this setup wouldn't be good for people that take their bhojuice out in public. I mean it would work, but be more suspicious looking than a normal ecig.

The main advantage to me is I can get massive hits from my ecigs, instantly. No heating a nail, no preparing a dab. Just drip some juice a press a button, and still get super powerful vapes. It's basically just my electronic oil rig for when I want to grab a quick pick-me up, not meant to be a portable of stealth rig.

I knew it wouldn't be for everybody, but I figured I'd put the info up in case someone is interested in a new setup

Grow Goddess · Feb 11, 2014

Don't get me wrong. i do appreciate you showing that. It is another piece of the pie so to speak. I am interested in all options. I have not used a mechanical vape yet, but going by what I have seen in various videos, I think I like the Kraken the best only for rebuilding your own coils. Basically the same as what you showed, but with a tank.

This is like the video you showed, but this unit has a tank. You can have single or double coil, you build it yourself with whatever gauge wire. This unit does interest me more so for an APV when it comes to e-cannabis. I could say more, but I will keep that to myself for now. As for glass, when it comes to e-cannabis, well, I have made my investments and glass in my opinion does not go well with e-cannabis (concentrate mixed with PG USP). Two big reasons why, taste, the glass brings out much of the PG USP taste, metal is the opposite, it hides/masks the PG USP taste. The second reason I don't care for glass with e-cannabis is it burns the crap out of my throat. At first it doesn't seem that way, but over time, it does. I must admit, the Kraken does look tempting to me. Mechanical vapes look tempting to me too, but I need to design something to go with the mechanical vape for it to be acceptable to me. I would love to be able to work with that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVkIY_gNQ_0

Here is what first clued me in with the glass. I had this custom made. Luckily it accepts the 510 drip tips. I have one that was also custom blown glass. I can use the glass drip tip on other devices, such as the ProTank 3 and others. That made me realize that the glass really aids in the burning effect on the throat. For e-cigarettes, I prefer plastic or poly... and for e-cannabis I prefer a lot of metal.

iClear 30 top coil

iClear 30b bottom coil

I have tried many clearomizers, glass, plastic, and metal. I have gone through many ounces of pure oil doing the testing. My two favorites are the iClear 30 and the iClear 30b. The iClear 30 top fed for tasting the strains and the iClear 30b bottom fed for more of a gaseous vape like nitrous oxide at the dentist and more continuous hits also longer lasting coil.

XRE · Feb 11, 2014

Hard to tell but the glass one posted above that you noted as tasting off looks to be a carto-tank. There is a center steel tube with threads on the bottom that can be slid in and out of the tank, right? If so your problem probably lies with using a cartomizer, they have a cotton batting around the coil, which works great for eliquid, but for hash oils and other things can cause problems.

Where as the other tanks you mention having good luck with use the clearo coil-head type sysem with sillica wick. I suspect that is the cause of the difference, as the tank material (especially if it's glass) shouldn't have an effect on anything. The actual vaporizaion takes place on the coil which is insulated from the tank, so I'd bet your problems are elsewhere.

The kraken is a great atty, if might be tricky with concentrate stuff because it's designed as a genesis atty, which uses rolled up stainless steel mesh (very similar to stainless screen people use on their BHO tubes) as the wicking material. I haven't tried concentrates with ss mesh yet, but I would worry about flavor suffering. Genesis devices are also very difficult to setup for people not used to rebuilding, as you have problems with the coil shorting out against the wick. When this happens you get an awful metallic taste, and using concentrates might make this more likely. Worth a shot, although it might be a gamble if you are risking the money for concentrate use only.

You can wick genesis devices with silica, to get it more similar to how the iclears work, but genesis devices usually have wicking issues when using silica since they are designed for a wick with different properties.

If you want a rebuildable tank that uses silica like your iclears, you should look into the Kayfun style atties. They are becoming quite popular because they are one of the few non-mesh rebuildable tanks out there. They work great with silica or cotton, but for concentrate purposes again I'd stick to silica.

You can still use these with the variable wattage/voltage APVs, you just have to make sure your resistance levels are at least 1.4 ohms or so depending on the device.

If you ever plan to give it a shot feel free to PM me with any questions you have and I'll do my best to point you in the right direction.

Grow Goddess · Feb 12, 2014

I am positive it is not the cartomizer. I will prove it with a picture.

KangerTech Pro Tank 3 Dual Bottom Coil with Glass Drip Tip 1-3-14 IMG_1048.jpg

This is a Kanger Tech ProTank3. I took the metal drip tip off (510) and put the custom glass 510 drip tip. It made the burning worse with the glass drip tip, very noticeable. The glass tip did add flavor, but increased the burning effect. Thick metal is my preference with e-cannabis.

You seem to be quite familiar with the mechanical vapes. What is your opinion of the wicking that is used for the Kracken? Do you know if you can replace that type of wick with the silica wick? I do not own a Kracken.

Are you familiar with mechanical vapes that can be fully variable wattage and voltage? I think I am going to get me a mechanical vape. What is your opinion on the magnetic power buttons instead of the spring loaded ones?

I would like to know your thoughts and opinions.

Thank you

XRE · Feb 13, 2014

Grow Goddess said:
I am positive it is not the cartomizer. I will prove it with a picture.

View attachment 2992723

This is a Kanger Tech ProTank3. I took the metal drip tip off (510) and put the custom glass 510 drip tip. It made the burning worse with the glass drip tip, very noticeable. The glass tip did add flavor, but increased the burning effect. Thick metal is my preference with e-cannabis.

You seem to be quite familiar with the mechanical vapes. What is your opinion of the wicking that is used for the Kracken? Do you know if you can replace that type of wick with the silica wick? I do not own a Kracken.

Are you familiar with mechanical vapes that can be fully variable wattage and voltage? I think I am going to get me a mechanical vape. What is your opinion on the magnetic power buttons instead of the spring loaded ones?

I would like to know your thoughts and opinions.

Thank you

Oh yeah that's a protank, I was talking about that other one (in that picture it's the bottom left tank, sitting next to your mod) I was mistaken and thought you were talking about that one when it was in a picture earlier.

The stainless mesh wicks for the kraken work great for nicotine liquid, but I haven't tried them with concentrate liquid. I suspect it wouldn't work well, but you never know. Silica work generally doesn't work well with genesis devices (like the Kraken) but some people have had limited success. But if you are new to rebuilding it's going to be lot of work and there is no promise it will wick properly.

Mechanical mods by nature aren't vv or vw, but you can get a kick module which is what I'm assuming you have seen. It's basically a small chip that you simply add on top of your battery in a mechanical mod, to turn it into a variable wattage device. These are limited to 12 watts I believe so high power is desired they aren't the best choice, but if you are OK with those power levels they work great because you get regulated constant vaping voltage.

Grow Goddess · Feb 13, 2014

Very good, you definitely know your e-cigg devices. If I were going to choose a kick it would be the kick 2. Not for higher power, but for the higher precision of the lower power settings. Kick 2 has pretty good ratings, the kick 1, well, not so good. That is just one option. There are others. More so in the marijuana world. That really helps that the wicking works with the kracken for e-ciggs. It may work wonders for e-cannabis, I wish I knew.

Are you not familiar with the magnetic power buttons? I can't say that I have tried one, but supposedly they last a lifetime compared to a spring.

Mechanical mods can be great for e-ciggs, but there must be some form of power adjustment in order to accommodate e-cannabis in my opinion. At least for now, until we learn how to do a pure extraction of 100% THC. I may send some PM's, you seem quite informed about this stuff. Mechanical mods is the only portable vaporizer equipment that I have not tried yet. I think I may go for it.

Thanks, I appreciate the insight and feedback.

nommosan · Feb 17, 2014

Very interested in this thread, it's why I joined... Recently quit smoking with the help of ecigs (kanger protank mini 2) and of course as a UK smoker of tobacco spliffs for 20 + years, I needed to separate the two. I use a volcano but I'm very interested in experimenting with some tank mods to be able to add some kind of concentrate tincture...that would be very handy

ak420grw · Feb 23, 2014

Someone's probably going to tell me that I'm an absolute moron for doing this but I've had good results mixing 1/3 grain alcohol tincture and 2/3 e-cig juice. Doesn't get you super high but it does give you a nice light vape buzz. The e-cig juice I use lists grain alcohol as an ingredient anyway so I figure it's fairly safe, but I could be wrong.

charface · Feb 23, 2014

ak420grw said:
Someone's probably going to tell me that I'm an absolute moron for doing this but I've had good results mixing 1/3 grain alcohol tincture and 2/3 e-cig juice. Doesn't get you super high but it does give you a nice light vape buzz. The e-cig juice I use lists grain alcohol as an ingredient anyway so I figure it's fairly safe, but I could be wrong.

Not gonna call ya an idiot but are they listing trace amounts.
I can see using the alcohol to extract then
cooking off the alcohol once it is infused
with tincture
or even before but not into yourself.

I have witnessed unpurged iso hash smoked and it was scary.
Like cant breath for a long time and puking.

Wait,,,,,
Are you fukin wit me? :screwy:

krakajax · Mar 3, 2014

first time poster, so are you vaping straight rso?

BusBlast · Mar 12, 2014

Hey guys, Lurker here.. decided to register because it seems you guys were touching on what I'm doing and it got me a little excited.

Currently, I'm simply heating bho and PG, then mixing them together. Usually use a ratio of 1g:1ml Very simple, works well, pretty potent. Nothing's lasted longer than a few days, but I've yet to see any separation.

Now, I also use Mechanical Mods and RDA's. Currently, I'm just dripping 1-2 drops onto a cotton wicked subohm coil.. works very well. I am very, very versed in the "E-Cig" world... I don't even call them E-Cigs, I'm more of a hobby-level enthusiast that is only into Mechanical Mods. That being said, I probably wouldn't suggest a tank RBA (like Kraken) to be used in this fashion. I actually had a Kraken and didn't care for it.. I am 100% into dripping atomizers, which I find to be perfect cuz I like my "e-cannabis" to be potent for 1-2 drops to be effective. Long story short.. I love Mechs and Drippers and steering to the extreme side of the hobby. I also believe these devices should be powerful enough to do what I've been doing (and seem to handle it just fine)

Some posts here have made me curious, however.

Some say that the device's coils will not get hot enough for the THC? I find myself getting pretty ripped off 1-2 drops.. so I'm a bit confused. Perhaps since I run subohms, my coils heat up quicker and hotter? I'm talking like.. .25 ohms here.. Like the other guy said.. my wattage/amperage/resistance gets pretty insane sometimes... Pretty much blows a ego/spinner/vv/vw out of the water

Also, I have no idea what decarbing does, or if it's relevant to what I'm doing... should this be something I should look into?

Compound	Before Decarb	30 Min Decarb	60 Min Decarb
THCA	24.5%	2.6%	.1%
THC	3.8%	25.4%	25.5%
CBDA	.6%	.3%	.3%
CBD	0%	1%	.1%
CBN	.4%	1%	1.4%
Moisture	0%	0%	0%
Total Cannabanoids	29.3%	30.3%	27.4%

vegetable glycerin tincture for tank system e-cig?

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