Ventilation questions

Spiralarchitect

Active Member
How many times per minute do I need to change the air?
I was planning on having a system capable of changing it 3 times per minute. Is this practical / realistic? I've heard conflicting reports on this. One friend says 1 time every 3 minutes is fine, another friend (whose plants look really, really good) said he does up to SIX times per minute, but he's also dealing with a much smaller space than I am.

(My growspace is roughly 1300 cubic feet.)

So if I wanted to ventilate it

I plan on using aircooled HID lights. (7,000 watts.)
I would like to do CO2.
My climate can get fairly hot. Mid-Southern California.


I plan to use carbon scrubbers on both air coming in and air going out. (If there's a better way to filter air coming in for fine particles such as dust, seeds, insects/eggs, pollutants, etc., I would love to know.)
How will this affect the following:
-Size of intake/outtake
-Should I be using active intake & exhaust or just exhaust?
-CFM requirements?
- How should the fans be positioned relative to the carbon filters? Should I be sucking air through the carbon or blowing air through it?

Axial vs Centrifugal.
Been looking at axial fans to meet my CFM needs. It seems that it's much easier to get an axial fan with a high CFM rating.
What occurred to me though is that...centrifugal fans move air at much higher pressures, right?
If I'm trying to create an environment with a lower pressure than it is outside (as if I were in the mountains) would this be a factor? Please forgive my ignorance.

Other questions:
What kind of ducting should I be using?
I've heard that rigid ducting is more efficient and less noisy.

2. What CFM rating should I have on the fans connected to the lights? Should I have both an intake and an exhaust fan or just exhaust? (with a large intake hole)


Other, Other questions =P:
I've seen a lot of hype about such and such a bulb being so much more efficient, producing more lumens and more PAR light, etc. Is it really worth it to buy one of these bulbs or is it just hype? Howabout ballasts? Magnetic vs Electronic? Are cheap ballasts bad?

What are your guys' opinions on cool tubes?

The voltage in my area is 220. Should I be using equipment rated at 240v?



Thanks for answering all these questions, gentlemen. If I've missed an important sticky or post I apologize and would appreciate it if you point me in the right direction.
 

email468

Well-Known Member
i've always heard three times a minute is great. but i suppose the more fresh air the better provided you compensate by adding more intake holes. hard to argue with someone who grows awesome bud!
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
How many times per minute do I need to change the air?
I was planning on having a system capable of changing it 3 times per minute. Is this practical / realistic? I've heard conflicting reports on this. One friend says 1 time every 3 minutes is fine, another friend (whose plants look really, really good) said he does up to SIX times per minute, but he's also dealing with a much smaller space than I am.
every 3-5 minutes is adequate for replacing stale co2 depleted air. 6 times a minute would be a 'wind tunnel test'.

(My growspace is roughly 1300 cubic feet.)
what are the room dimensions please, I am having trouble visulizing this.

So if I wanted to ventilate it
well...you do want to ventilate and you will have to ventilate it.

I plan on using aircooled HID lights. (7,000 watts.)
Wow, yes you will want them to be air cooled. and for that number you will probably need at least two maybe three fans.
I would like to do CO2.
You will need a few thousand dollars of controls to make good use of co2. You will only want it for the flowering plants, maybe thats all of them?

My climate can get fairly hot. Mid-Southern California.
then I'm guessing I state the obvious when I say you will want to insulate the hell out of your growing area and install an air conditioner/ dehumidifier for the summer.

I plan to use carbon scrubbers on both air coming in and air going out. (If there's a better way to filter air coming in for fine particles such as dust, seeds, insects/eggs, pollutants, etc., I would love to know.)
How will this affect the following:
-Size of intake/outtake
-Should I be using active intake & exhaust or just exhaust?
-CFM requirements?
- How should the fans be positioned relative to the carbon filters? Should I be sucking air through the carbon or blowing air through it?
you have two choices, active and passive. If the incoming system and out going system are the same. Passive intake needs to have twice the capacity of the exhaust and of course costs less. There are filters that you can buy, sold for hepa type air cleaners that can be used.

Axial vs Centrifugal.
Been looking at axial fans to meet my CFM needs. It seems that it's much easier to get an axial fan with a high CFM rating.
What occurred to me though is that...centrifugal fans move air at much higher pressures, right?

If you look at the two fans you talk about sid by side you will see a radial fan is made by enclosing an axial fan in a larger housing. This makes it more effective at building air pressure so you can use smaller ducting. YOu could accomplish the same thing with an axial fan by buying the next size bigger fan and the using reducers on both ends. As an example 6" ducting to an 8" fan to a 6" duct.
I just use the larger size of ducting. I'm not interested in building pressure, I'm interested in moving the air. I use a 500cfm in-line axial fan in an 8" duct. Almost all of the line is the insulated flexible duct. This cuts down on the noise as well.

If I'm trying to create an environment with a lower pressure than it is outside (as if I were in the mountains) would this be a factor? Please forgive my ignorance.

why would you try to do this? This would be the exact opposite of what your plants need?

Other questions:
What kind of ducting should I be using?
I've heard that rigid ducting is more efficient and less noisy.
The best is the insulated flexible ducting, I think they must have been talking about the cheap flexible alumiminum ducting. Around $25.00 for 25' of R-6 8" duct. You will want a couple of 'collars' (crimped on both sides) for connecting the duct to the fan and back, allows for gradual bends instead of 90 degree turn. That is were the rigid loses its efficiency. Any time you connect two small ducts into larger ones use a 'Y' not a 'T'.

2. What CFM rating should I have on the fans connected to the lights? Should I have both an intake and an exhaust fan or just exhaust? (with a large intake hole)
Someone else will have to weigh in on this, you have the same passive and active choices, I just don't have any ideas about the cfm necessary to cool the 1000 watt furnaces. I think they are a waste of energy and won't use them.


Other, Other questions =P:
I've seen a lot of hype about such and such a bulb being so much more efficient, producing more lumens and more PAR light, etc. Is it really worth it to buy one of these bulbs or is it just hype? Howabout ballasts? Magnetic vs Electronic? Are cheap ballasts bad?
Again some one else will have to weigh in here. I have some discussion of lights in my journal.

What are your guys' opinions on cool tubes?
You will need to have them or glass shields if you intend to introduce co2.

The voltage in my area is 220. Should I be using equipment rated at 240v?
Doesn't matter. Same electric costs in the US. Some say the equipment is better quality.

Thanks for answering all these questions, gentlemen. If I've missed an important sticky or post I apologize and would appreciate it if you point me in the right direction.
I'm sure by now you are wondering if you really wanted me to answer. You are trying to do the right thing by researching your questions. You will want to look at some of the journals, widowmakers comes to mind, and also view the grow room design posted by rollit-up. VV
 

fiona

Active Member
If using an aircooled 600watt light in a 3x3x6 space is it ok to attach a Y splitter on the ducting and attach one fan to both the light and the filter? Are the other ends of aircooled lights closed? Also, what would be an appropriate fan for such a move?
Thanks everyone.
 

email468

Well-Known Member
If using an aircooled 600watt light in a 3x3x6 space is it ok to attach a Y splitter on the ducting and attach one fan to both the light and the filter? Are the other ends of aircooled lights closed? Also, what would be an appropriate fan for such a move?
Thanks everyone.
a few things - first you really should start a new thread i think (rather than hijack someone elses)

you're looking at 48 cubic feet (w x l x h) so in order to vent the room 3 times a minute your fan should be rated at around 150 CFM. i like the vortex-style fans but in my experience, they are loud. i recommend using different fans for light cooling and exhaust.
 
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