SpicySativa
Well-Known Member
Short answer: Nothing
Long(er) answer: Your soil microbes will decompose (eat) the dead worms and return the nutrients to your soil.
Vermicomposters Unite! Official Worm Farmers Thread
- Thread starter Rising Moon
- Start date
Long(er) answer: Your soil microbes will decompose (eat) the dead worms and return the nutrients to your soil.
kindgarden
New Member
Great thread!! I am new to this forum, but have been reading posts and am very thankful to everyone for their sharing of knowledge.
I've had some very positive results over the last 7 months with vermicomposting using littlfe effort, so thought I'd share. I used books "Worms Eat My Garbage", Teaming with Microbes, and Steve Solomon's advice.
I agree with basically all the advice I've seen given on this thread, except for worrying about bugs. Since no crop is being grown, there is little risk to damage from pests.
I've always seen it balance out (lots of knats, then lots of mites, then nothing for a while, etc.). I personally wouldn't go out of my way to treat worm bin pests other than covering them up with some bedding or cardboard.
![20140205_084459[1].jpg](/data/attachments/2100/2100041-a90e1e07d3a22f81f6d583706239e1c3.jpg)
![20140205_084508[1].jpg](/data/attachments/2100/2100032-8af8c1713a758b8aab3e0abb0a1df0e4.jpg)
![20140205_084819[1].jpg](/data/attachments/2100/2100043-61e2ed2ad74ab372bd21cc5048cbaafb.jpg)
(you can't see them because they hide from light and they are covered in dirt, but there are tons, of all different sizes, much more than when I started over 7 months ago.
1. I created a rectangular frame with legs out of 2x4's and attached wheels on the bottom for convenience
2. I purchased a roll of geotextile material (same as smartpot) on amazon, and stapled it around my frame
3. I used moistened peat moss as the medium, but also added random stuff - alfalfa hay, newspaper shreddings, etc.
3.a. I used about 6 inches of peat moss. I have found it useful to have a thick layer, in case of too much heat or dry weather, worms can flock to the center until you find time to remoisturize.
4. Added 1 lb. of Uncle Jim's red wigglers purchased via Amazon.com (this was mailed to me during 90+ degree weather in July and turned out fine)
5. Cover bin with various choices - I've used cannabis leaves, moist bedding, moist cardboard. If it seems to get aneorobic, use a more pourous cover. If too dry, do the opposite.
6. Keep the bin moist periodically via spraying, or pouring water just until it drips out the bottom. Just like a plant - but its not as important to take care of. I've gone weeks without paying attention. Its more important during hot weather
7. I keep a 2 gallon plastic bucket under my sink, and fill it with coffee grounds, egg shells, veggie scraps, etc.
8. I empty the bucket in the bin and cover with bedding whenever I feel like it
9. If I feel I am adding too much of something (too much bread/coffee grounds/citrus) I will put some in my outside compost bin instead.
10. When weather is cool enough, I transport some worms to my outside compost bins
11. Tip: Sometimes I add some bran , hay, or oats, etc. to the top of the worm bin and spray down. Soon after, you see fungi mycelia all over. My understanding is this is great worm food and a good addition to the diversity. I have never heard of doing this in worm bins, but it makes sense to me.
Happy Vermicomposting!!
I've had some very positive results over the last 7 months with vermicomposting using littlfe effort, so thought I'd share. I used books "Worms Eat My Garbage", Teaming with Microbes, and Steve Solomon's advice.
I agree with basically all the advice I've seen given on this thread, except for worrying about bugs. Since no crop is being grown, there is little risk to damage from pests.
I've always seen it balance out (lots of knats, then lots of mites, then nothing for a while, etc.). I personally wouldn't go out of my way to treat worm bin pests other than covering them up with some bedding or cardboard.
(you can't see them because they hide from light and they are covered in dirt, but there are tons, of all different sizes, much more than when I started over 7 months ago.
1. I created a rectangular frame with legs out of 2x4's and attached wheels on the bottom for convenience
2. I purchased a roll of geotextile material (same as smartpot) on amazon, and stapled it around my frame
3. I used moistened peat moss as the medium, but also added random stuff - alfalfa hay, newspaper shreddings, etc.
3.a. I used about 6 inches of peat moss. I have found it useful to have a thick layer, in case of too much heat or dry weather, worms can flock to the center until you find time to remoisturize.
4. Added 1 lb. of Uncle Jim's red wigglers purchased via Amazon.com (this was mailed to me during 90+ degree weather in July and turned out fine)
5. Cover bin with various choices - I've used cannabis leaves, moist bedding, moist cardboard. If it seems to get aneorobic, use a more pourous cover. If too dry, do the opposite.
6. Keep the bin moist periodically via spraying, or pouring water just until it drips out the bottom. Just like a plant - but its not as important to take care of. I've gone weeks without paying attention. Its more important during hot weather
7. I keep a 2 gallon plastic bucket under my sink, and fill it with coffee grounds, egg shells, veggie scraps, etc.
8. I empty the bucket in the bin and cover with bedding whenever I feel like it
9. If I feel I am adding too much of something (too much bread/coffee grounds/citrus) I will put some in my outside compost bin instead.
10. When weather is cool enough, I transport some worms to my outside compost bins
11. Tip: Sometimes I add some bran , hay, or oats, etc. to the top of the worm bin and spray down. Soon after, you see fungi mycelia all over. My understanding is this is great worm food and a good addition to the diversity. I have never heard of doing this in worm bins, but it makes sense to me.
Happy Vermicomposting!!
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
I'm just starting up a worm bin, only about a pound of worms so far.
Has anyone tried using coco peat solely as the bedding material?
I imagine it would work really well.
I wonder if it breaks down completely into humus or remains fibrous.
Also you can add rock powders directly to the bin I have read.
Are there any other amendments that you would normally add into a soil mix that may be better utilized if first processed through the worms?
Or maybe a better question is: are there any soil amendments that you should not add to a worm bin? Would adding guano for instance burn and kill your worms?
Has anyone tried using coco peat solely as the bedding material?
I imagine it would work really well.
I wonder if it breaks down completely into humus or remains fibrous.
Also you can add rock powders directly to the bin I have read.
Are there any other amendments that you would normally add into a soil mix that may be better utilized if first processed through the worms?
Or maybe a better question is: are there any soil amendments that you should not add to a worm bin? Would adding guano for instance burn and kill your worms?
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
DankSwag-
That looks like it's coming along really nicely. How much worms did you start off with? How long did it take you to get to this phase? I don't see any identifiable bedding material in there; what are you using as bedding?
That looks like it's coming along really nicely. How much worms did you start off with? How long did it take you to get to this phase? I don't see any identifiable bedding material in there; what are you using as bedding?
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Hello dill,
Ya this just didn't happen over night. In fact I received my worms (UJ's) in December and the mail person delivered them to my mailbox and did not bring them to our door, thought the package said "Live" and Perishable. When I got home from work I found my two pounds of worms in my frozen mailbox. They obviously don't pay postman to read the labels on packages and make prudent decisions, they are only trained to read the mail they take home with them and the only prudent decisions they make is too safely move through traffic and barely that. Sorry for my mail rant. But damn I came home to frozen meal for a freaking crow!
So I took evasive action hoping to rescue any possible survivors to put them to work in my worm camp!
So i placed the shipping box they arrived in about 4 feet away from my wall heater where the warm air blowing on them hoping to revive any comatose worms. I left them for a few hours to accumulate to room temperature. Before introducing them to their new abode. The journey was rough but they found their Zion and they are doing what they do best, eating, shitting and mutiplying!
So as I was awaiting their fateful arrival I was in the process of building their new work camp!
The beginning - A bin was selected for it's wide shallow displacement and it was cheep too! Thanks Lowes!
Drainage holes - Who wants to lay in their pee it's bad enough to crawl through their own shit!
Obviously if worm pee allowed to sit not healthy for worms nor compost if bad bacteria where no air gets to starts to build
Air holes for needed oxygen- These I placed just under the rim so no light shines through but air will flow.
Furnishings for my worm labor camp. Want them to be comfortable while eating, shitting and multiplying! Only the best for my worms, besides it will be my plants soil too.
I think I have a country worm is that straw I see?
Enrichment - Treating the furnishings to a nice soak in alfalfa and kelp.
Layering - After a good soak over night I drained excess water and begin to build ecosystem to support them
I mixed a cup fish compost and of Black Gold organic potting soil to provide a thin ground cover over their furnishings.
Also prior to adding food for worms I sprinkled rock dust, basalt, green sand, oyster shell and added alfalfa, crab meal, kelp
and neem cake to stave of fungus gnats. Once I applied food I sprayed it with my home made BAM to give er a kick start in breaking down that food.
Please note the pics here and above are of the second bin which I begin building a month ago Jan 9th.
The picture with the nice white web, that was 6 days later.
Here are recent pictures of the second bin
Here are some pics of my first bin. I am having to use shredded paper collect excess moisture from soil to keep.
When I was in first responder mode trying to revive frozen worms I grab a bin I had yet to drill drainage holes for.
My first bin started with 2k until I made my second bin and split the worms.
This soil is very rich I am about to let the worms finish here and will not add more food.
They have had a balance diet of greens, cannabis leaf, whole grain bread, bananas, avocado, plums and some coffee grounds,
got to keep those worms awake and working you know!
I want to pass along this link very helpful....
http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/Redwormsedit.htm
Hope that answered all your questions...
DankSwag
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
Yea that's awesome. There are a lot of indoor worm composters on the net but you usually don't see anyone adding all of these amendments directly into the bin. It seems to me that it makes the most sense, especially if you are planning to add them eventually. Why not let all those ingredients break down as much as possible; sort of like the idea of "cooking" your soil.
You are going to have some awesome soil!
You are going to have some awesome soil!
frizzlegooch
Well-Known Member
That looks great but doesnt it leak onto your floor?
foreverflyhi
Well-Known Member
A thread about poop, love it
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Hey Everyone... i have these wiggly worm-like thingz in my compost bin...anyone know what they are....?
I heard DDT works great - forever!
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Check these worm castings I just harvested...
BLACK GOLD Cannabis Food!
Here I have removed the castings from the first bin and replaced with new bedding
a top layer of mild potting soil with a little homemade super soil and mineral amendments.
Then I moved existing food from right side to left side for worms to migrate over to the other side
Then I will have castings to collect on the right side. This is only bin 1. In 4 weeks bin 2 right side will be ready for harvest.
The bin 1 above replacement bedding, soil, admendments, then food moved to left side.
This is bin 2 below not much longer and I will be getting some sweet castings from this bin too.
DankSwag
Cedrus
New Member
Three tokes for worm farming! Don't know what I would do without them. I have 2 big bins that I harvest each once or twice a year and a smaller bin that has 3 sections which I can harvest regularly. Two families worth of food scraps and all my egg cartons and brown shopping bags keep them well fed. I soak the bags and cartons so that they decompose a little faster.
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
Kronicool-
They look like earth worms
They look like earth worms
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Yeah maybe...i just think they are way to worm-like to be worms though...
supertiger
Well-Known Member
How odoriferous are worm bins? Suitable indoors or not at all?