Vermicomposting - a thing to consider

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sheerinterest

Member
Ohsogreen said:
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Sheerinterest.... Sorry, I missed this one. I use compost from my own compost barrel / piles (recyled grow soil, bunny poop, yard wastes & kitchen waste), peat moss or well rinsed coco fiber and perlite.
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My basic soil mix is 50 percent well aged compost (bagged from Lowes or Home Depot will work), 30 percent sphagnum peat moss or well rinsed coco fiber, 10 percent perlite (the plain - not enriched type) and 10 percent worm castings.
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You can do up to 20 percent worm castings with no worries, but over that is not good. Since, worm castings are very heavy / dense for their size. Too much and roots will have a harder time pushing through / past them. (wasted energy).
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic....
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Thanks Osogreen. Don't worry about taking a bit to get back. I just now learned how to locate my posts. Your knowledge is appreciated.
 
Don't Bogart

Don't Bogart

Well-Known Member
I read through this post and unless I missed it I thought I saw a mention of using pressure treated wood in a box construction. Isn't that bad doesn't it contain mercury?
On a side note. I was listening to NPR and a reporter did a spot on worm farming. This is how some place in (Kentucky?) collects worms for bait and what else. They drive a metal rod about two feet into the ground and "draw" a board across the top. Somehow the vibrations it creates scares the worms to the top. The reporter tried it and got it to work but didn't have the knack to get the #s the farmers could.
I found this. So if you want to go get big numbers of worms for your projects.........
http://wormdirt.wordpress.com/2009/04/18/worm-grunting-anyone/
 
avid.toke

avid.toke

Well-Known Member
Just finished getting through the post and I have a couple questions for anyone experienced in vermiculture..
I have read that getting exact NPK values for vermicompost and teas made with it is anything but consistent as the values vary from worm bin to worm bin. I feel like this is because the diets are varied; different foods would lead to different levels of nutrients in their excrement. Would it be possible to to feed the worms food that is specifically high in something like nitrogen so the end product (the castings) would also be high in that specific nutrient? I ask because I feel like having teas high in nitrogen would be beneficial for earlier stages of growth vs a different concentration for later stages.
I have read that alf alfa pellets are a good source of nitrogen but i feel like organic alf alfa pellets might be difficult to come by. I was also thinking banana peels for potassium, but yeah I appreciate anything anyone has to offer, this is a great thread!
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
avid.toke said:
Just finished getting through the post and I have a couple questions for anyone experienced in vermiculture..
I have read that getting exact NPK values for vermicompost and teas made with it is anything but consistent as the values vary from worm bin to worm bin. I feel like this is because the diets are varied; different foods would lead to different levels of nutrients in their excrement. Would it be possible to to feed the worms food that is specifically high in something like nitrogen so the end product (the castings) would also be high in that specific nutrient? I ask because I feel like having teas high in nitrogen would be beneficial for earlier stages of growth vs a different concentration for later stages.
I have read that alf alfa pellets are a good source of nitrogen but i feel like organic alf alfa pellets might be difficult to come by. I was also thinking banana peels for potassium, but yeah I appreciate anything anyone has to offer, this is a great thread!
Click to expand...
Worms love coffee grounds and that is high in N. I think my worms like my Mr. Coffee better than I do.

Alfalfa pellets are easy to find and cheap. Also called rabbit food.

Laying Mash for chickens is also good (wet first), and cheap ~$7/25lb bag.

Wet
 
P

PhatColas

Member
It's pretty varible. Good stuff in, good stuff out.
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Provide more vegetable matter, you'll promote worm castings with more bacteria in them.
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Provide more carbon (paper, cardboard, saw dust from untreated wood) you'll promote worm castings with more fungi.
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I have two bins, and feed each differently. I use the fungi dominant bin worm castings for starting seeds and rooting clones.
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I use the bacteria dominant bin for feeding / maintenance on established plants.
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Here's a link to a kick ass site: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/worms/
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Worm casting on their own, aren't rich enough in NPK to be used as a fertilizer, but they are the worlds best soil improver, along with seaweed extract & compost tea.
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C

camy

Member
well, the vermicomposting worms sold online are the ones you need for vermicomposting. Red Wigglers and Nightcrawlers are two of the most effective in this area - they can produce more castings than other worms. Red Wigglers are the ones you might want when you vermicomposting indoors since they can survive small and secluded spaces unlike other types of worms that need a lot of space for burying into and living 5-6 feet in the dirt.
 
mikegreenethumb

mikegreenethumb

Active Member
brendon420 said:
worms are expensive man its like 30 bucks for a pound of worms apparently thats around 1000 worms but man, 30 bucks, ill go dig in the backyard instead.
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you need a certain type of worm either red wiggler or african night crawlers you also need damn near a pound for a decent bin or itll be a year or more before you havest your first castings
 
mikegreenethumb

mikegreenethumb

Active Member
Wetdog said:
I'd be interested also.:leaf:

For large scale vermicomposters, there are mechanical separators, but big $$$$$.

Seems like back in this thread a screen was mentioned, but my eyes are already crossed from so much reading, I'm not going to go back and look for it.

Wet
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if you put all the food on one side or use upward migration you wont have to seperate they go where the food is
 
mikegreenethumb

mikegreenethumb

Active Member
Forest of Cheem said:
No, miracle grow contains harsh chemical fertilizers that would be harmful to your worms. Also Miracle Grow does not constitute an "organic" grow even in the loosest definition of the word.

First off, like Wetdog said, I would advise you read the thread from the beginning. I know it's long, but well worth the read. Very useful information. Do what I did when I first discovered this thread, smoke a bowl, grab something to drink/eat and just read it.

But to just answer your question quickly, start with a layer of lightly wet newspaper or other "brown material" (cardboard, straw, etc.).

Here's a couple links to outside material that may be helpful. But seriously, this thread, and OhSo in particular, contain a vast amount of information. If you want to grow organic, read this and every other thread started by OhSo.

Just let us know if you have any other questions. We're always glad to help one another.

http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/Vermicompost107.shtml
http://www.nyworms.com/vermicomposting.htm
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bro look up vermicomposting or worm composting on youtube get all the info in 5 min and way less work than reading long thread pick a good show thou
 
mikegreenethumb

mikegreenethumb

Active Member
camy said:
well, the vermicomposting worms sold online are the ones you need for vermicomposting. Red Wigglers and Nightcrawlers are two of the most effective in this area - they can produce more castings than other worms. Red Wigglers are the ones you might want when you vermicomposting indoors since they can survive small and secluded spaces unlike other types of worms that need a lot of space for burying into and living 5-6 feet in the dirt.
Click to expand...
they live great close i have prob 5 pounds now maybe more in four tray worm factory 360 http://1054house.com/assets/images/worm_factory_360.jpg
 
mikegreenethumb

mikegreenethumb

Active Member
PhatColas said:
It's pretty varible. Good stuff in, good stuff out.
.
Provide more vegetable matter, you'll promote worm castings with more bacteria in them.
.
Provide more carbon (paper, cardboard, saw dust from untreated wood) you'll promote worm castings with more fungi.
.
I have two bins, and feed each differently. I use the fungi dominant bin worm castings for starting seeds and rooting clones.
.
I use the bacteria dominant bin for feeding / maintenance on established plants.
.
Here's a link to a kick ass site: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/worms/
.
Worm casting on their own, aren't rich enough in NPK to be used as a fertilizer, but they are the worlds best soil improver, along with seaweed extract & compost tea.
.
Click to expand...
depends on casting go from barley readable to respectable the best ferts (organic) are bat quano eel and then worm it is strong enough on its own if you use a tea
 
mikegreenethumb

mikegreenethumb

Active Member
PhatColas said:
It's pretty varible. Good stuff in, good stuff out.
.
Provide more vegetable matter, you'll promote worm castings with more bacteria in them.
.
Provide more carbon (paper, cardboard, saw dust from untreated wood) you'll promote worm castings with more fungi.
.
I have two bins, and feed each differently. I use the fungi dominant bin worm castings for starting seeds and rooting clones.
.
I use the bacteria dominant bin for feeding / maintenance on established plants.
.
Here's a link to a kick ass site: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/worms/
.
Worm casting on their own, aren't rich enough in NPK to be used as a fertilizer, but they are the worlds best soil improver, along with seaweed extract & compost tea.
.
Click to expand...
ideal is 50/50 for consistant and balanced ferts
 
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