Wanting to increase weight of buds

foxfarmdude

foxfarmdude

New Member
Soil: Fox Farm Ocean Mix
Pots: 3 Gal smart
Veg Time: 48 days from seed
water: store bought spring water/ distilled
strain: pineapple chunk/ liberty haze
3 x 3 tent
400 hps

I'm on day 50 of flower and it's doing it's thing I'm only feeding it molasses. My question is I want to increase the weight of the buds so will the molasses do the job and I'm hoping they will be done by day 60 the pistals on the haze are already turning red the chunk on the other hand is slower and I still have pistals that are straight. Any thoughts?
 
Ringsixty

Ringsixty

Well-Known Member
Normally these strains will fatten up during the last 2 weeks of flower. Post a Pic so we can see what your talking about.
 
Twitch

Twitch

Well-Known Member
i use molasses in my flush, other then that you need to do things from the start like co2 bigger pots maybe something to hold the plants up, these are all speculations i havent seen a pic

do you know how many moles it takes to get a table spoon of molasses?
 
Jack Harer

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
Bud size is MOSTLY determined by genetics dude. You're gonna get what you get. For the biggest buds, use 1K lights. CFLs will work, but NOTHING beats the sheer power of a 1K. They're BEASTS!!! And the amount of light plays a huge role in bud development. Any additives that claim to "fatten buds" is pure snake oil.
 
foxfarmdude

foxfarmdude

New Member
I use a 400 watt MH/HPS and can control my heat pretty good I couldn't imagine using a 1000 watt in my little 3 x 3 tent ....O use tomato cages and I have been feeding them ca-mag and alittle bud booster....it looks good I just want that extra mmmth not sure how safe it is uploading pics to this site im new and never know
 
Twitch

Twitch

Well-Known Member
Jack Harer said:
Bud size is MOSTLY determined by genetics dude. You're gonna get what you get. For the biggest buds, use 1K lights. CFLs will work, but NOTHING beats the sheer power of a 1K. They're BEASTS!!! And the amount of light plays a huge role in bud development. Any additives that claim to "fatten buds" is pure snake oil.
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yea i should have said that i have 1000's the light is the food
 
Jack Harer

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
Watch the CalMag guy. Especially at this point. One can easily over do Mg. I wouldnt worry about calmag until you flip them to flower. Many Sat or Sat doms gobble cal mag in flower, but even then only every few waterings. If you use tap water you shouldn't have to worry about CalMag. Tap has many essential minerals. Don't believe the hype about not using it. The fastest way to a mineral deficiency is to use either distilled or RO water.
 
foxfarmdude

foxfarmdude

New Member
Jack Harer said:
Watch the CalMag guy. Especially at this point. One can easily over do Mg. I wouldnt worry about calmag until you flip them to flower. Many Sat or Sat doms gobble cal mag in flower, but even then only every few waterings. If you use tap water you shouldn't have to worry about CalMag. Tap has many essential minerals. Don't believe the hype about not using it. The fastest way to a mineral deficiency is to use either distilled or RO water.
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Hey Guy, they been flowering for the last 7 weeks lol. and I put all the facts about my grow in the original post....I've have read a couple books on the subject this is my second run...just looking for some tips to increase the weight ( i'm on day 51 now) the haze I thinks gonna be done first it didnt look as good as the chunk but the pistals are turning amber and it looks tasty Soil: Fox Farm Ocean Mix
Pots: 3 Gal smart
Veg Time: 48 days from seed
water: store bought spring water/ distilled
strain: pineapple chunk/ liberty haze
3 x 3 tent
400 hps
 
AlGore

AlGore

Well-Known Member
FYI.... From everything I've read about molasses and botany in general... molasses does not "directly" effect the buds or trics, etc.

The point of putting sugar and carbs into the soil is for the soil, more accurately for the organisms that live in the soil, which in turn makes the other nutes more avail to the plant.

PS> I'm useing FFOF on one of my girls in a 3 gal air pot and she started showing nute def around week 3-4 of veg. I now feed it liquid nutes like my others and it's doing way better.

PPS> I use store bought too, although its artisan well, not spring or distilled. You def don't want distilled unless your treating it as suggested previously btw...
 
foxfarmdude

foxfarmdude

New Member
AlGore said:
FYI.... From everything I've read about molasses and botany in general... molasses does not "directly" effect the buds or trics, etc.

The point of putting sugar and carbs into the soil is for the soil, more accurately for the organisms that live in the soil, which in turn makes the other nutes more avail to the plant.

PS> I'm useing FFOF on one of my girls in a 3 gal air pot and she started showing nute def around week 3-4 of veg. I now feed it liquid nutes like my others and it's doing way better.

PPS> I use store bought too, although its artisan well, not spring or distilled. You def don't want distilled unless your treating it as suggested previously btw...
Click to expand...

Right on I read that to aboutthe molasses but I went and bought a jar of GrandMas All Natural Molasses (Unsulphured) from walmart and on back it says it contains 110mg of potassium per serving/ cacium and magnsium/
 
AlGore

AlGore

Well-Known Member
Good point, and I've read great things about molasses.

Although if I were concerned with extra potash, cal, mg - I'd prefer to use something that tells you the soluble nutes, etc. (btw, floranectar is gh's answer to molasses and I'm gonna try some on one of mine starting this week actually).

I'm also not sure I understand "flushing" with it the last two weeks, seems the thought of most people is the molasses goes into the buds and makes em grow more trics somehow. Or that the molasses is somehow feeding the plants instead of the liquid nutes they were giving them previously. Seems to me, for molasses to help it needs to be used from early on in flowering so it can "feed the micro-herd" and in-turn help feed the plants what is still avail in the soil.
 
foxfarmdude

foxfarmdude

New Member
AlGore said:
Good point, and I've read great things about molasses.

Although if I were concerned with extra potash, cal, mg - I'd prefer to use something that tells you the soluble nutes, etc. (btw, floranectar is gh's answer to molasses and I'm gonna try some on one of mine starting this week actually).

I'm also not sure I understand "flushing" with it the last two weeks, seems the thought of most people is the molasses goes into the buds and makes em grow more trics somehow. Or that the molasses is somehow feeding the plants instead of the liquid nutes they were giving them previously. Seems to me, for molasses to help it needs to be used from early on in flowering so it can "feed the micro-herd" and in-turn help feed the plants what is still avail in the soil.
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al I recommend running some pineapple chunk buddy ...it's nice...really nice ones alittle too big (3ft) but man it's lovely...I tend to like anything crossed with skunk #1
 
foxfarmdude

foxfarmdude

New Member
I'm on day 64 and the chunk isn't finished and the haze could go even longer...I turned my light back 30 mins and at this point I want it to finish....the alot of hairs on the haze are straight and it needs to fill in....anyone know have any thoughts ...I really want them done I have some bubba kush and green crack i wanna run next..should I turn the timer back more? Im think either way im gonna chop them on day 67?
 
S

Subu

Well-Known Member
AlGore said:
FYI.... From everything I've read about molasses and botany in general... molasses does not "directly" effect the buds or trics, etc.

The point of putting sugar and carbs into the soil is for the soil, more accurately for the organisms that live in the soil, which in turn makes the other nutes more avail to the plant.

PS> I'm useing FFOF on one of my girls in a 3 gal air pot and she started showing nute def around week 3-4 of veg. I now feed it liquid nutes like my others and it's doing way better.

PPS> I use store bought too, although its artisan well, not spring or distilled. You def don't want distilled unless your treating it as suggested previously btw...
Click to expand...
Everyone knows this, it's what the micro-organisms do with the molasses which helps.
 
foxfarmdude

foxfarmdude

New Member
Subu said:
Everyone knows this, it's what the micro-organisms do with the molasses which helps.
Click to expand...
subu? should I turn my timer back even more to get my hairs to turn? or ride the wave ? I bet both these strains could go 12 weeks if I let them...which i dont wont too
 
Caspernode

Caspernode

Member
id wait a bit longer, but i know how hard that can be, but yeah set the timer back a bit and youll prolly increase your overall yeild.
 
foxfarmdude

foxfarmdude

New Member
casper if the pistils are somewhat white and straight will the smoke still be ok to chop and dry and smoke the tricoms are cloudy/clear as far as i can tell...i spent a dollar at the dollar store and got a mag-glass
 
HDPursuit

HDPursuit

Well-Known Member
Hey FF Dude, what do you mean by turning back your lights? More dark or more light? I haven't heard that one. Have heard of 24-28 dark before harvest, have only been able to try that one once, new grow and room really doesn't allow me to do it again. IMO you need to watch the trichs, not the pitils. Trichs are the true test for harvest time, different strains, different enviroments will make the pitils be different each time. ex. colder temps bring out colors. Good luck with yer harvest, I'm waiting on some Trainwreck to finish off, checking those trichs daily now. For me it takes at least a 60x to see anything. Patience is a virtue...and it sucks
 
bunnyface

bunnyface

Well-Known Member
I think they are referring to shortening the days to affect the ripening. I havn't tried it but shortening the days to 10 hrs makes them slow down the ripping...Could be way off.
 
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