water only

Woyaboy

Well-Known Member
whats the big deal on up potting?,,, small plants in little containers, like seedlings and clones, move them to 1 gallons and after that into final containers,, i dont see the big deal?
I'm not saying it's any kind of a "deal" I don't mind repotting, I just like knowing how this whole thing works...so in that regard, I can't understand why FFOF needs repotting where as these other mixes that seem much lighter can get you all the way to flower. I'm teaching myself amendments and what to add, all that jazz, and looking at OF it looks like a Super Soil so I guess I am just confused WHY does OF need to be ropotted, it's not like I actually care though. Does this make a little more sense on what I am trying to figure out?
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
i only know one guy who uses ffof and does not repot, and goes water only the whole way, but he also only grows seat of green style, so the veg is really short, and he grows in 1 gallon containes the whole way,, but it does make it, and his buds smoke great, , i have not tried the whole ride without up potting on my own, but next time my clones are going into the sip and will go the whole ride,, so after that grow I will be able to say first hand how it does,, otherwise i cant speculate as to "why" the other guys on here i chat with that goe all the way with soil , they make thier own mixes, with living shit, and worms and more, its like an art form in itself,,
 

Stonironi

Well-Known Member
Do any of you use the 2.1 master mix from the Rev ?? I am trying to build this soil and it's like 40 amendments? Seems a little much !!
 

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
Do a site search for "teaming with nutrients". From the same author. There are a few links to the free PDF floating around in a few threads here.
There was a bunch of pdfs posted a few pages back including teaming with nutrients.
I'm not saying it's any kind of a "deal" I don't mind repotting, I just like knowing how this whole thing works...so in that regard, I can't understand why FFOF needs repotting where as these other mixes that seem much lighter can get you all the way to flower. I'm teaching myself amendments and what to add, all that jazz, and looking at OF it looks like a Super Soil so I guess I am just confused WHY does OF need to be ropotted, it's not like I actually care though. Does this make a little more sense on what I am trying to figure out?
It depends on the veg time. If the pot gets full of roots you'll end up rootbound before its finished. I would pot up, wait about two weeks for the roots to grow a little then flower it.
 

Woyaboy

Well-Known Member
Do any of you use the 2.1 master mix from the Rev ?? I am trying to build this soil and it's like 40 amendments? Seems a little much !!
There gets to be a point when you got to stop listening to gimmicks, 40 amendments sounds like wayyyy to fuckin' much, I even think Sub-Cool's soil is overkill and Sub-Cool himself doesn't even seem to understand WHY he does what he does, he just has a "everything INCLUDING the kitchen sink", mentality. I'm not saying he's wrong, but I AM saying he's right but he doesn't know WHY he's right. The things he says are half factual, half dredged in hippy bull-shit. No disrespect, without his mix there would be no dialogue, he paved the way to this for a wider audience, but again, way too much crap. It's like when you see those shoes that pump up and they're "guaranteed" to make you jump higher or run faster...horse shit. You can make a pretty damn decent soil using Peat Moss+ Aeration of your choise + EWC or good compost/ 4 cups TOTAL PER CUPIC FT of amendments of Kelp and alfalfa, 1 to 2 cups of Dolomite lime and 4 cups of Azomite and you have a soil that beats the pants off most the crap you can buy in a store homie. Just let that shit marinate in a closed tarp or garbage can for 4 weeks whilst keeping it damp.
 

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
There gets to be a point when you got to stop listening to gimmicks, 40 amendments sounds like wayyyy to fuckin' much, I even think Sub-Cool's soil is overkill and Sub-Cool himself doesn't even seem to understand WHY he does what he does, he just has a "everything INCLUDING the kitchen sink", mentality. I'm not saying he's wrong, but I AM saying he's right but he doesn't know WHY he's right. The things he says are half factual, half dredged in hippy bull-shit. No disrespect, without his mix there would be no dialogue, he paved the way to this for a wider audience, but again, way too much crap. It's like when you see those shoes that pump up and they're "guaranteed" to make you jump higher or run faster...horse shit. You can make a pretty damn decent soil using Peat Moss+ Aeration of your choise + EWC or good compost/ 4 cups TOTAL PER CUPIC FT of amendments of Kelp and alfalfa, 1 to 2 cups of Dolomite lime and 4 cups of Azomite and you have a soil that beats the pants off most the crap you can buy in a store homie. Just let that shit marinate in a closed tarp or garbage can for 4 weeks whilst keeping it damp.
Lots of things can be added to soil that you might not think is necessary but they still have a function. Take crab meal for example. Crabshell is made out of chitin and a fungus gnat larva's mouth is also made out of chitin so when they go munching away through your plant they bite that crabshell and break off their mouth parts. Green sand is another one, low npk but it conditions the soil. Neem seed meal, bugs hate it. Earthworm castings are great for soil but I would't count on just that to take you all the way through flower. This is cow manure and some of that other unimportant stuff you're talking about. grow pics 102.jpg grow pics 023.jpg grow pics 095.jpg
 

Woyaboy

Well-Known Member
Lots of things can be added to soil that you might not think is necessary but they still have a function. Take crab meal for example. Crabshell is made out of chitin and a fungus gnat larva's mouth is also made out of chitin so when they go munching away through your plant they bite that crabshell and break off their mouth parts. Green sand is another one, low npk but it conditions the soil. Neem seed meal, bugs hate it. Earthworm castings are great for soil but I would't count on just that to take you all the way through flower. This is cow manure and some of that other unimportant stuff you're talking about. View attachment 3708998 View attachment 3709000 View attachment 3709001
Very nice looking buds. My argument was that you can get those same looking buds and not have to use 40 fucking amendments! I didn't say it was unimportant, I am saying adding 40 sum odd ingredients is overkill, no? The mix I gave I don't use personally, I was just showing an easy AF mix a few friends do that gets them all the way to flower and it doesn't have even a quarter of 40 differ amendments like Rev's does.

I like Kelp and Alfalfa and Neem with Dolomite+Azomite. I didn't say Earth worm castings was the end all thing that was important I said EWC OR a good compost, such as your cow manure. Please don't misinterpret what I am saying. I never said it was useless, I am saying there gets to be a point where there is enough and adding every last amendment available seem a lot like wearing 2 condoms where one would suffice.
 

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
Not 40 amendments dude a couple things are listed twice. more like 20 ammendments, I had 15 in mine except for the cow manure grow. I don't understand why he thinks tap water is bad though I have good water.
Recipe: The Rev's 2.1 Soil I Made
REV'S TRUE LIVING ORGANICS SUPER SOIL MIX

BASE MIX
2 gal Quality Organic Soil-mix (or good organic recycled soil mix)
2 gal Thoroughly Rinsed Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gal Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gal Earthworm Castings (fresh earthworm castings, and/or fresh compost works too)
AMENDMENTS
1½ cup Grow or Bloom ‘Pure’ by Organicare (or 1 cup 5-5-5)
½ cup Greensand
¾ cup Ground Oyster Shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)
1½ cup Crushed Oyster Shells (optional)
½ cup Dolomite Lime (powdered)
1 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast Acting Dolomite Lime
¼ cup Blood Meal (and/or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 N-P-K if flowering 1/8 cup of each)
¼ cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup un-steamed (granular) Bone Meal (like Whitney Farms brand)
½ cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 as one good N-P-K example)
¼ cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
½ cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
½ cup Kelp Meal
4 cups (heaping) Composted Steer Manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized bacteria and primo organic matter)
½ cup Azomite granular (add an additional ¼ cup greensand if no Azomite)
1 cup Humic Acid Ore granular (like from Down to Earth brand)
1 cup Alfalfa Meal (or 2 cups pellets – make sure pellets are all organic no additives)
½ cup Rock Phosphate Granular (optional)
1 cup (heaping) organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil-mix)
This mix should be moistened (Do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine free water, and turned over every few days, for about 15 days before use. This is what I call “cooking” your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before use, is fine. The nutrients don’t evaporate or anything, so no worries there, per storage over time. If this soil-mix turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demands.
I find cooking mine for about 30 days works the best for me, but I have often used it sooner, like at 2 weeks, and just remember the warmer it is outside wherever the soil-mix is at, the faster the cooking processes will happen. You can use a pH meter (soil pH meter) to tell when it is done cooking too. I wait until it is in the 6.2 – 6.8 range, which normally takes about 2 weeks, because as it kicks off cooking the pH will often be very low, like around 4.9 isn’t uncommon when it first starts to cook.
ONLY FOR USE WITH PURE WATER SOURCES, LIKE REVERSE OSMOSIS, RAIN, OR DISTILLED WATER. DO NOT USE WELL, TAP, OR SPRING WATER WITH THIS RECIPE.
This soil-mix is meant to be used along with the spike and layer TLO dynamic, and while it is quite capable of standing alone, it works supernaturally when you add the spike and layering dynamics.
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
Not 40 amendments dude a couple things are listed twice. more like 20 ammendments, I had 15 in mine except for the cow manure grow. I don't understand why he thinks tap water is bad though I have good water.
Recipe: The Rev's 2.1 Soil I Made
REV'S TRUE LIVING ORGANICS SUPER SOIL MIX

BASE MIX
2 gal Quality Organic Soil-mix (or good organic recycled soil mix)
2 gal Thoroughly Rinsed Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gal Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gal Earthworm Castings (fresh earthworm castings, and/or fresh compost works too)
AMENDMENTS
1½ cup Grow or Bloom ‘Pure’ by Organicare (or 1 cup 5-5-5)
½ cup Greensand
¾ cup Ground Oyster Shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)
1½ cup Crushed Oyster Shells (optional)
½ cup Dolomite Lime (powdered)
1 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast Acting Dolomite Lime
¼ cup Blood Meal (and/or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 N-P-K if flowering 1/8 cup of each)
¼ cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup un-steamed (granular) Bone Meal (like Whitney Farms brand)
½ cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 as one good N-P-K example)
¼ cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
½ cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
½ cup Kelp Meal
4 cups (heaping) Composted Steer Manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized bacteria and primo organic matter)
½ cup Azomite granular (add an additional ¼ cup greensand if no Azomite)
1 cup Humic Acid Ore granular (like from Down to Earth brand)
1 cup Alfalfa Meal (or 2 cups pellets – make sure pellets are all organic no additives)
½ cup Rock Phosphate Granular (optional)
1 cup (heaping) organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil-mix)
This mix should be moistened (Do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine free water, and turned over every few days, for about 15 days before use. This is what I call “cooking” your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before use, is fine. The nutrients don’t evaporate or anything, so no worries there, per storage over time. If this soil-mix turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demands.
I find cooking mine for about 30 days works the best for me, but I have often used it sooner, like at 2 weeks, and just remember the warmer it is outside wherever the soil-mix is at, the faster the cooking processes will happen. You can use a pH meter (soil pH meter) to tell when it is done cooking too. I wait until it is in the 6.2 – 6.8 range, which normally takes about 2 weeks, because as it kicks off cooking the pH will often be very low, like around 4.9 isn’t uncommon when it first starts to cook.
ONLY FOR USE WITH PURE WATER SOURCES, LIKE REVERSE OSMOSIS, RAIN, OR DISTILLED WATER. DO NOT USE WELL, TAP, OR SPRING WATER WITH THIS RECIPE.
This soil-mix is meant to be used along with the spike and layer TLO dynamic, and while it is quite capable of standing alone, it works supernaturally when you add the spike and layering dynamics.
looks like rocket fuel,, lol
 

bravedave

Well-Known Member
Do a site search for "teaming with nutrients". From the same author. There are a few links to the free PDF floating around in a few threads here.
Actually had an email discussion with the author about a year ago...was working on "Teaming with Fungi". Told me that as little as 80 ppm of P will disrupt "myco" productivity...which is why I switched to a minimalists use of Jack's Citrus. 20/10/20 from the 20/20/20. (Sorry, only close to water only) Did "seem" to help root creation and yield for that matter. I add MykosExtreme over and above what ProMix sticks in.
 

Stonironi

Well-Known Member
So then everyone agrees that the mix is a good one even if it is a little overkill ? I only ask because that 2.1 mix is in my garage right now cooking ! Lol I sure hope it is a good one ! I was thinking of adding some neem seed meal to it as I have it laying around ?? What do you think of cooking in some neem to this mix ??
 

Stonironi

Well-Known Member
Not 40 amendments dude a couple things are listed twice. more like 20 ammendments, I had 15 in mine except for the cow manure grow. I don't understand why he thinks tap water is bad though I have good water.
Recipe: The Rev's 2.1 Soil I Made
REV'S TRUE LIVING ORGANICS SUPER SOIL MIX

BASE MIX
2 gal Quality Organic Soil-mix (or good organic recycled soil mix)
2 gal Thoroughly Rinsed Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gal Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gal Earthworm Castings (fresh earthworm castings, and/or fresh compost works too)
AMENDMENTS
1½ cup Grow or Bloom ‘Pure’ by Organicare (or 1 cup 5-5-5)
½ cup Greensand
¾ cup Ground Oyster Shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)
1½ cup Crushed Oyster Shells (optional)
½ cup Dolomite Lime (powdered)
1 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast Acting Dolomite Lime
¼ cup Blood Meal (and/or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 N-P-K if flowering 1/8 cup of each)
¼ cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup un-steamed (granular) Bone Meal (like Whitney Farms brand)
½ cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 as one good N-P-K example)
¼ cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
½ cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
½ cup Kelp Meal
4 cups (heaping) Composted Steer Manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized bacteria and primo organic matter)
½ cup Azomite granular (add an additional ¼ cup greensand if no Azomite)
1 cup Humic Acid Ore granular (like from Down to Earth brand)
1 cup Alfalfa Meal (or 2 cups pellets – make sure pellets are all organic no additives)
½ cup Rock Phosphate Granular (optional)
1 cup (heaping) organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil-mix)
This mix should be moistened (Do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine free water, and turned over every few days, for about 15 days before use. This is what I call “cooking” your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before use, is fine. The nutrients don’t evaporate or anything, so no worries there, per storage over time. If this soil-mix turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demands.
I find cooking mine for about 30 days works the best for me, but I have often used it sooner, like at 2 weeks, and just remember the warmer it is outside wherever the soil-mix is at, the faster the cooking processes will happen. You can use a pH meter (soil pH meter) to tell when it is done cooking too. I wait until it is in the 6.2 – 6.8 range, which normally takes about 2 weeks, because as it kicks off cooking the pH will often be very low, like around 4.9 isn’t uncommon when it first starts to cook.
ONLY FOR USE WITH PURE WATER SOURCES, LIKE REVERSE OSMOSIS, RAIN, OR DISTILLED WATER. DO NOT USE WELL, TAP, OR SPRING WATER WITH THIS RECIPE.
This soil-mix is meant to be used along with the spike and layer TLO dynamic, and while it is quite capable of standing alone, it works supernaturally when you add the spike and layering dynamics.
Do you know if the pellets that he is talking about for the alfalfa meal, is the pellets for horses ?? Like from tractor supply ?? It is much cheaper than buying alfalfa meal .?
 
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