Water Temps=important Summer=warm

I have read that hygrozyme and sub culture are good for ridding of rot after you get it...somehow. Either way you should probably just start over if your cropage is roted.

There are actually some mycoparasites that have been found to be useful in preventing root rot. If these mycoparasites are in the water, the second that there is any Pythium, these parasites would remove it. It is called parasitism. I believe that SubCulture has these parasites in it, and that is why it helps prevent root rot.

If something helps to get rid of root rot why would it not also prevent it? If we are to follow your logic, than these statements would be true. "If your air filter in your car is clogged, you lose power. If you change your dirty air filter, your power comes back. But if you change your air filter before it becomes clogged, you will not prevent the lose of power." Obviously, this is false.

This is the same thing that is going on with the root rot. It is brought on by a parasite (or fungi as its commonly considered) in the water. If, when this fungi is in full swing, SubCulture will help to get rid of the parasites in the water when they are in high numbers, why wouldn't it get rid of them in smaller numbers as well? It seems as though it would be easier for the colony of "good" stuff in the water to kill a small number of "bad" parasites than it would be to kill a larger number once the rot has taken hold.

my water temo is 73 is that high enough to cause probllems if so how much is a chiller i just spent my last 300 on my ppm meter and cant afford mroe supplies till harvest or till i find a job

bongrippinbob said:

There are actually some mycoparasites that have been found to be useful in preventing root rot. If these mycoparasites are in the water, the second that there is any Pythium, these parasites would remove it. It is called parasitism. I believe that SubCulture has these parasites in it, and that is why it helps prevent root rot.

If something helps to get rid of root rot why would it not also prevent it? If we are to follow your logic, than these statements would be true. "If your air filter in your car is clogged, you lose power. If you change your dirty air filter, your power comes back. But if you change your air filter before it becomes clogged, you will not prevent the lose of power." Obviously, this is false.

This is the same thing that is going on with the root rot. It is brought on by a parasite (or fungi as its commonly considered) in the water. If, when this fungi is in full swing, SubCulture will help to get rid of the parasites in the water when they are in high numbers, why wouldn't it get rid of them in smaller numbers as well? It seems as though it would be easier for the colony of "good" stuff in the water to kill a small number of "bad" parasites than it would be to kill a larger number once the rot has taken hold.

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You, my friend, are totally correct! At least your logic is anyways.

lol word bong buddies....tell someone else about your flawless logic. you sound like data from star trek rofl. just kidding. I use hygrozyme and have used florashield and all this bs.

Al B Fuct would classify this as a "magic sauce" and I am begining to believe him.

Big Tit- You might not have a problem, but ideal res water temp is 68. Cheap way to cool would be to get a AC window unit from W-mart. Buy a chiller later if you can. $200-2000 depending on res size

gvega187 said:

lol word bong buddies...

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hehe...That's funny...I didn't realize that we're both bongers.

an even cheaper way, put a small fan blowing on your res. it can lower your res temp as much as 5 or 10 degrees. just keep an eye on your water level every day.

lorenzo08 said:

an even cheaper way, put a small fan blowing on your res. it can lower your res temp as much as 5 or 10 degrees. just keep an eye on your water level every day.

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That was mentioned in the very first post.

I was trying to let everyone know there are products out there that will help to prevent root rot even if your temps are a little high, or real high like mine are.

While using a fan on your res, not only do you have to keep an eye on your water level, but also your ppm's and your pH as they will change drastically if the fan is evaporating a bunch of water.

bongrippinbob said:

your ppm's and your pH will change drastically if the fan is evaporating a bunch of water.

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This will happen when your plants are drinking a lot also.

Rapid growth and VPD will affect water consumption also.
(vapor pressure deficit)

Diligent monitoring of fast growing plants is a must.

I figure when your plants are using a lot of water, there is no reason to add to the evaporation process. Your plants will be creating enough work for you, you don't need to make more for yourself.

I put frozen two liter bottles in my res now to keep it cool, had to find that out the hard way

I'm in southern cali... and it's god damn hot. res temps are always a big issue. I've been pricing chillers, and looking for bargains and as I was grabbing a beer from my little fridge today, I had an epiphane.

my little fridge/freezer, can chill my reservoires! we have the god damn technology. So, I went to home depot, spent 40 dollars, and I think I have enough shit to cool 3 rez's.

chillers are ridiculously expensive, and I had some extra pumps laying around anyway (who in this ballgame doesnt?)

so here are some pictures of the shit I have to work with...
I put the hose into a gallon container wrapped in coils. I filled the container most of the way up with water. (last picture), and I'm going to freeze it. Once it is frozen, I am going to put it into the freezer of my small little fridge, drill holes to run the intake/exit hoses to go to rez 1. and then I will monitor the temps to see what type of temp difference I get.

The fridge cost me 100 dollars, and it's pretty cheap to run, it'll cool my res's AND keep my beers frosty and delicious.

I should hopefully be able to post the results by the end of the weekend.

p.s. you can see in one of the pictures a 100 dollar "Ice probe" that I got off of ebay, it really doesnt make much of a difference of temp in that res... maybe 2 to 4 degrees? probably closer to two degress. The res that it's in is a 27 gallon container, but with the two 4" tubes, it holds about 15 gallons of water. I really hope that the small fridge does significantly better than the ice probe. time will tell.

Wow that is good thinking on the fly, I will be interested to see what happens

thanks man... I'm interested as well. When in home de'POT there was flexible copper coils that sold for 40 dollars for 20' of the stuff... more expensive, and I'd have had to have 20' per res... for the temperature transfer, it may have been a better idea, but I decided to try the cheap route first. (this always proves to be a mistake) The tubing I got was 1/2 inch stuff, with an inside diameter of 3/8ths of an inch, the pump I have is a fountain pump, I can take pictures or put a link to it later if all this actually makes any difference.

I'm deadset on trying to make my litte fridge/freezer work though, if I have to, I will buy copper at 40 bucks a pop. To me, this is energy money I'm spending anyway, and I may as well make the most of it.

As far as chillers go, yes, I know a commercial 1/4 horsepower one would probably be way better, but you cant get them for less than 300 dollars... and I cant afford that, because I have 3 reserviors... that's a lot of chicken scratch. fuck that.

Anyone who lives in a hot climate... seriously, you only usually need to drop the temps about 10 degrees right? cross your fingers for me please, because I'm hoping that this works, I want happy stable plants cooled cheaply in a chilly res. (oh yeah, and my beer too)

I think that the copper in the res is a bad idea. I am not positive, but I believe that is like the one material you are suppose to stay away from in your res.

bongrippinbob said:

I think that the copper in the res is a bad idea. I am not positive, but I believe that is like the one material you are suppose to stay away from in your res.

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the copper would only be in the freezer, I would solder hose barbs on the end of the tubes coming out of the side of the fridge to connect the plastic tubing to, or maybe just get 3/8ths outside diameter copper, and get black rubber hose with a 3/8ths inside diameter and use hose clamps.

Nutrients cannot flow through copper
or come into contact with any copper,
or it will be a disaster.

The high salt content and low pH
will quickly leach the copper
and cause toxicity.

All plastic or titanium
are your only choices.
.

Earl... thanks for that information, I had not considered what the nutrient solution would do to the copper, the plastic seems to be working okay so far, it's been running all day today and it dropped the temp of the rez 10 degrees, but the block of ice that I froze around the tubing melted after a bout two hours with the pump running, I'm hoping that it freezes again overnight. time will tell.

copper, and titanium are out, I wonder if I can find a good stainless steel radiator coil to throw in the freezer? hmm....

Earl said:

Nutrients cannot flow through copper
or come into contact with any copper,
or it will be a disaster.

The high salt content and low pH
will quickly leach the copper
and cause toxicity.

All plastic or titanium
are your only choices.
.

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I knew there was something that was bad about copper. I just coudn't remember.

Titanium is ok
Most chillers are made of titanium
thats why they cost so much