Week 4 yellow leaves (pics) Gathering advice

Happy Leaf

Well-Known Member
Hello all. I've learned pretty much everything I can about ph, nutrients, deficiencies, pests etc. But I am seekimg advice for this problem as I'm at a loss and scared to mess them up. This is my first indoor grow so I've been learning an insane amount of new things. At the moment I am attempting to rid myself of fungus gnats with mosquito dunks crushed in water, yellow sticky cards, a hot shot pest strip, and perlite which is somewhat working. I mention this because I'm curious if fungus gnat larvae are the cause. I have not messed with the ph on this grow but I have the gear coming in so I will be able to soon. I never took ph into much consideration before but I really want to do everything right.

I am using roots organic soil and their nutrients. I use cal mag as well. I could have one of many defiencies from the research I've done, but I know it could be PH related even if my cheap soil meter curently reads at 6.5. The plants affected are two grape infernos and a white widow. My Brian berry cough seems to be just fine which adds to my confusion. I'm not sure if I should feed more and a higher dose of food as I've already fed them the last two waterings. Or is everything going ok for the most part?

Thank you for any input!

Edit: One of the buds is suffering light stress so it looks like nanners but I assure you they are little yellow leaves as I inspected it. That Brian berry stretches a lot I have to stake it down!
 

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im4satori

Well-Known Member
what type light and how close to the canopy?

are the lower fan leaves yellow or dark green?

are the plants further from the light not showing any issues?
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
im not familiar with your nutes
but I see A LOT of bottles and stuff there

sometimes when you've got to many things going in its hard to figure

but despite your issue they look nice and plump for week 4
 

Happy Leaf

Well-Known Member
what type light and how close to the canopy?

are the lower fan leaves yellow or dark green?

are the plants further from the light not showing any issues?
I am using a 600 watt hps and it is currently 16 inches away from the nearest bud, I can move it up 1 or 2 more inches. The lower fan leaves are dark green. I noticed that the plants are yellowing in spots that aren't receiving direct light so I don't believe light is an issue, the Brian berry cough is the only one that it as green as can be though.
 

Happy Leaf

Well-Known Member
yeah that does seem like an awful lot of stuff to be putting in your plant...
Do you think that is causing the yellowing? I am using 10 ml of big buddah grow, 10 of big buddah bloom, 15 ml of trinity, 5 ml of extreme serene, 15 ml of ancient amber, 10 ml of hp2, and 5 ml of cal mag. I have used mycorrhizae every now and then.

Now that I list everything it does seem like too much. Would you know how I should reduce my current nutrients if overfeeding is the issue? Thank you for your time and response
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i think you just need to feed them a little more, they look pretty healthy, don't see tip burn or clawing, don't see cal or mag spots. bump it up a little and see if it helps
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Do you think that is causing the yellowing? I am using 10 ml of big buddah grow, 10 of big buddah bloom, 15 ml of trinity, 5 ml of extreme serene, 15 ml of ancient amber, 10 ml of hp2, and 5 ml of cal mag. I have used mycorrhizae every now and then.

Now that I list everything it does seem like too much. Would you know how I should reduce my current nutrients if overfeeding is the issue? Thank you for your time and response
for me to determine what you've got going on id need to get the % info for each of the bottles your using and what the ingredient are derived from
the easiest way is for you to post pics of the bottles

its normal of N def to show as yellowing on lower leaves first and then work its way up

but that's not what you've described nor is it what the pictures seem to show

it almost looks like your yellowing from the top down which could be something a bit more complicated to identify

the first thing is to make sure its not bleaching from the light being too close
youd need to take a look at your garden and determine if the plants closest to the bulb are showing more of the issue then those further from the bulb

other than that we need to look at your nutrients to see if theres something out of balance after we
exclude light bleaching and excluding over or under fertilization which is still to be determined and excluding PH issues

my next guess would be to look at your iron content and sulfur content to see if theyre lacking in either

is/was this meant to be a strictly organic grow?
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
also
on another note

I find gnatrol to be the best way to get rid of gnat larvae

along with the other stuff your doing to slow down the adults...

ive also heard sand works but haven't tried it
but they lay a bed of sand over top of the container and the larvae cant escape
 

Sassafras¥

Well-Known Member
and not to knock your nutes, but i have a bag of calcium nitrate, a bag of jack's 20-20-20 for veg, a bag of jack's 10-30-20 for flower, and a bag of epsom salts for both.
thats it, the whole kit. and get thisView attachment 3950172 View attachment 3950173
Hell yeah.. so do you mix the calcium nitrate into your soil? Doesn't that Jack the N up even more? Damn with a nute like 20 20 20 + CN seems like that'd be to much N. But they sure do look bomb bro!!
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
its all in the ratios, you're supposed to weigh stuff, but i weighed it, saw that it was in 1/4 tsp increments, and just scoop it now. its 1/4 tsp. cal.N, 1/4tsp epsom salts, and 1/2 tsp of jacks per gallon. thats veg. i use a product called sul-po-mag for flower, but its just epsom salts with K added. i sprinkle 1/4 tsp on top of my pots every other watering after the stretch is over. i also drop the calcium nitrate after the first two waterings after the flip to 12/12, and just use 2 scoops of jacks 10-30-20. so one watering it'll get 10-30-20, the next, with the sul-po-mag, it'll get something close to 10-30-40.
oh, by the way, i use the calium in my water. i add it first, and make sure its dissolved good, then add epsom salts if im using them. you have to get the calcium dissolved good in the water first or the sulfur in the epsom salts will bond with it and both will precipitate out into powder in the bottom of your pot.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
its all in the ratios, you're supposed to weigh stuff, but i weighed it, saw that it was in 1/4 tsp increments, and just scoop it now. its 1/4 tsp. cal.N, 1/4tsp epsom salts, and 1/2 tsp of jacks per gallon. thats veg. i use a product called sul-po-mag for flower, but its just epsom salts with K added. i sprinkle 1/4 tsp on top of my pots every other watering after the stretch is over. i also drop the calcium nitrate after the first two waterings after the flip to 12/12, and just use 2 scoops of jacks 10-30-20. so one watering it'll get 10-30-20, the next, with the sul-po-mag, it'll get something close to 10-30-40.
oh, by the way, i use the calium in my water. i add it first, and make sure its dissolved good, then add epsom salts if im using them. you have to get the calcium dissolved good in the water first or the sulfur in the epsom salts will bond with it and both will precipitate out into powder in the bottom of your pot.
that all sounds about right

ive not run the numbers but at a glance it sounds good to me for a soil grow

I don't use the sul-po I have potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate separate but in the end the same thing

the potassium sulfate (or maybe sul-po-mag) would be the only thing id weigh and not just use the 1/4 tsp
only cuz in the case of potassium sulfate its 52% K so even a little tiny bit makes a big difference so for that id want to be more accurate and weigh it
but that's just me and my control issues lol
 

Happy Leaf

Well-Known Member
for me to determine what you've got going on id need to get the % info for each of the bottles your using and what the ingredient are derived from
the easiest way is for you to post pics of the bottles

its normal of N def to show as yellowing on lower leaves first and then work its way up

but that's not what you've described nor is it what the pictures seem to show

it almost looks like your yellowing from the top down which could be something a bit more complicated to identify

the first thing is to make sure its not bleaching from the light being too close
youd need to take a look at your garden and determine if the plants closest to the bulb are showing more of the issue then those further from the bulb

other than that we need to look at your nutrients to see if theres something out of balance after we
exclude light bleaching and excluding over or under fertilization which is still to be determined and excluding PH issues

my next guess would be to look at your iron content and sulfur content to see if theyre lacking in either

is/was this meant to be a strictly organic grow?
The bottles were too cylindrical to capture all the info so I took photos of the manual descriptions you may have to zoom in a little. I'm currently using 10 ml of buddah grow, 10 ml of buddah bloom, 15 ml of trinity, 5 ml of extreme serene, 10 ml of HP2, 15 ml of ancient amber, 5-10 ml of cal mag amd I've habitually used the mycorhizzae root growth enhancer. When the plants were in veg I was giving them 15 ml of buddah grow, 15 ml of trinity, 5ml of extreme serene, 10-15 ml of ancient amber, and I was using roots organic elemental (cal-mag) but the powder took 24 hours to mostly dissolve which was a hassle. I'm not using any of the powder nutrients. I'm pretty much following the manual I received with the nutrients, but I have been making minor adjustments over the grow so far.

Thank you for your help
 

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Happy Leaf

Well-Known Member
I tried to edit my post as I had quoted you twice and I ended up making it seem like you typed in my response (im4satori). So my response is in your quote!!! My bad lol. Also I did check if my light was causing the issue but I found no problem with it and any of plants leaves, there's just one bud smack dab in the center of the light that is getting a little bleaching.
 
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Happy Leaf

Well-Known Member
and not to knock your nutes, but i have a bag of calcium nitrate, a bag of jack's 20-20-20 for veg, a bag of jack's 10-30-20 for flower, and a bag of epsom salts for both.
thats it, the whole kit. and get thisView attachment 3950172 View attachment 3950173
No problem thank you for posting your nutes and photos of those ladies they look amazing. I love the simplicity of your program. I will podsibly feed them a little more tonight
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
so I started to look at your pics but im unable to see the letters its blurred
after some thought
your growing in organic soil yes
and using organic nutes

possibly an organic grow...so my calculating the nutrient blend isn't going to give us as much info

if its meant to be an organic grow you might focus on biology to get the most from whatever organic matter is in the soil and not currently available

based on your grow style you might be better off getting advise from those whom have more organic experience than I do
 

Happy Leaf

Well-Known Member
so I started to look at your pics but im unable to see the letters its blurred
after some thought
your growing in organic soil yes
and using organic nutes

possibly an organic grow...so my calculating the nutrient blend isn't going to give us as much info

if its meant to be an organic grow you might focus on biology to get the most from whatever organic matter is in the soil and not currently available

based on your grow style you might be better off getting advise from those whom have more organic experience than I do
No problem thank you for your time!
 
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