WENDY420_TGAsubcool/Paradise/DNA/Caliconnection grow + My own breeding projects.

wendyc420 said:

thanks cann!
the reason I flush is, even with organic nutrients you get salts, sugars and basically plant food being delivered to your leaves and buds. whist they probably aren't as bad as chemical nutes, they still don't taste that great, Would you smoke your nutes if you dried them?. the other reason is you want to starve your plants for the last couple of weeks, timing it just before peak potency.

Click to expand...

Hmm...I think we have a different definition of flush. When most growers "flush" they put about 3x the pot size volume of water, and let it all run through. What you seem to be describing is just starving your plants a little bit at the end...feeding plain water the last week or two with only a little bit of carbs and trace minerals, yes? I agree 100% with that...a nice natural fade is what I am going for as well (a bit too early this harvest lol). What I wouldn't agree with is the concept of "washing out" any organic nutrients. If you are using true organics you shouldn't have any noticeable salt buildup...and since most of the nutrients will be "locked away" in cation bonds etc (assuming your soil has a high humus content), there is nothing really to flush out. You are only rinsing out the buildup of what you put in, so if you didn't put any nasty synthetic ferts in you should be fine....just my 2 cents. Flushing seems to be one of the oldest myths of growing...stemming from the use of gnarly synthetic fertilizers (where it is appropriate to flush) but now everyone and their momma thinks that flushing is necessary for every style of growing. I beg to differ. Flushing is notneeded in organics. period. Feeding plain water at the end is perfect, but do not over water them for any reason....

Also, ace of spades is the shit. Cant get enough. She has earned a permanent spot in my garden, I think all 3 phenos I got might be keepers...

Cann said:

Hmm...I think we have a different definition of flush. When most growers "flush" they put about 3x the pot size volume of water, and let it all run through. What you seem to be describing is just starving your plants a little bit at the end...feeding plain water the last week or two with only a little bit of carbs and trace minerals, yes? I agree 100% with that...a nice natural fade is what I am going for as well (a bit too early this harvest lol). What I wouldn't agree with is the concept of "washing out" any organic nutrients. If you are using true organics you shouldn't have any noticeable salt buildup...and since most of the nutrients will be "locked away" in cation bonds etc (assuming your soil has a high humus content), there is nothing really to flush out. You are only rinsing out the buildup of what you put in, so if you didn't put any nasty synthetic ferts in you should be fine....just my 2 cents. Flushing seems to be one of the oldest myths of growing...stemming from the use of gnarly synthetic fertilizers (where it is appropriate to flush) but now everyone and their momma thinks that flushing is necessary for every style of growing. I beg to differ. Flushing is notneeded in organics. period. Feeding plain water at the end is perfect, but do not over water them for any reason....

Also, ace of spades is the shit. Cant get enough. She has earned a permanent spot in my garden, I think all 3 phenos I got might be keepers...

Click to expand...

yeah I totally agree with you on every point, Im pretty sure my definition is wrong, but I dont know what else to call it. I guess im just so used to calling a plain watering a flush from habit, but yes, you're right, with soil there isnt much to flush out. im glad you get the natural fade, its what all these hydro growers are missing out on with neon green foliage all the way till harvest. any presence of nitrogen will ruin you're cure. what about drying the plant out for 5 days, I was talking about? i've noticed I can get calyxes to swell by doing this. in a way that hydro growers get by force feeding, I like my buds to go all dready if the strain can. have you heard about this? i think it just speeds up ripening? its a very under rated technique. I think people attribute plant swelling or getting big to more feeding, they forget most of the plant material in stems and buds and leaves is carbon from the air, not nutrients of materials from the soil. pretty basic stuff really, but it seems pretty obvious to me from the beginning that less if better than more.

thanks for the reply!

Wendy

Glad to see we are on the same page in regards to "flushing" or whatever it shall be called

Not sure what you mean exactly about the drying out. Do you mean you go 5 days without watering? Or do you let them get dry, and then go for 5 days? At what point(s) do you do this in the cycle? Sorry lol I just don't want to respond to something thats I misinterpret.

Also, in regards to subcools supersoil, what ingredients are you having issues sourcing? Because there are a lot of different recipes for "hot mixes" and some of them might have ingredients that you can source locally.

Hey thanks for posting Wendy
Hopefully I'll be able to learn something from you while you're around, and get some advice from you around the last couple weeks of flowering?!
Looks like you understand what you're doing, just as much as it sounds like it!
Thanks again and good luck with the op

Nice work pal. you got it down. Cant say anything about your habits. Green till chop and a normal water at the end for a lets say semi flush normal water. tag along for the ride and hope to learn somthing along the way. Gotta say the starving water trick is a new one to me. all hears onit...

wendyc420 said:

yeah I totally agree with you on every point, Im pretty sure my definition is wrong, but I dont know what else to call it. I guess im just so used to calling a plain watering a flush from habit, but yes, you're right, with soil there isnt much to flush out. im glad you get the natural fade, its what all these hydro growers are missing out on with neon green foliage all the way till harvest. any presence of nitrogen will ruin you're cure. what about drying the plant out for 5 days, I was talking about? i've noticed I can get calyxes to swell by doing this. in a way that hydro growers get by force feeding, I like my buds to go all dready if the strain can. have you heard about this? i think it just speeds up ripening? its a very under rated technique. I think people attribute plant swelling or getting big to more feeding, they forget most of the plant material in stems and buds and leaves is carbon from the air, not nutrients of materials from the soil. pretty basic stuff really, but it seems pretty obvious to me from the beginning that less if better than more.

thanks for the reply!

Wendy

Click to expand...

Up doing a little reading and came across this page in one of my books.
The title of of the book is in the screenshot. I'll see what else I can find on it tho because I'm really interested I'm getting the best out of those last four weeks.

Sincerely420 said:

View attachment 2475590View attachment 2475589



Up doing a little reading and came across this page in one of my books.
The title of of the book is in the screenshot. I'll see what else I can find on it though because I'm really interested I'm getting the best out of those last four weeks.

Click to expand...

thanks for the info, soma has pretty much the same feeding regime as me. or rather the other way round. he is one hell of a breeder, love the look of his sativas, and he loooooves the organic. im running his 'amnesia' atm, and will be trying out his 'somango' in the future.

I think the trick is not trying to shove too much down your plants throats during the last 4 weeks, some people try to push feeding to the max, thinking they are fattening up their ladies. plenty sugars and carbs are fine, but more important than anything you can feed your plant to fatten her up, is oxygen. the reason I starve for 5 days regularly and make sure the medium is pretty clean before starving is to dry the plants root system out completely. after five days of drying, the first signs wilting will just about start to show, the plants cells will no longer be turgid(full of water) and the leaves will go limp. but its ok! because during this time the roots will get a huge dose of oxygen, so when they next get a large feeding of sugars, after being starved, the leaves will have ample oxygen to respire the large amount of sugars with. oxygen is just as important as co2 for a plant. even though we always think they convert co2 to o2. that's why I also aerate my tea/feed. I think the plants like this because it encourages growth, plants grow harder in tougher climates, but in this case everything is still available to the plant, so they have no choice but to thrive.
on a side note, it is advisable to turn down the fans that point directly at plants around day 4-5 of drying them out. as plants are susceptible to wind damage when they are all limp.
try it and let me know what you think! if anything you'll save money by not feeding as much. but you will notice a lot more swollen calyxes early on in the flowering cycle. instead of the last 2 weeks after peak potency.

Wendy

420

Thank ya mam, for the great response.
I'll def. take all that you've said into consideration!
Good stuff Wendy

Cannabinoids, their boiling points, and properties:

Δ-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC)
Boiling point:157*C / 314.6 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Euphoriant, Analgesic, Antiinflammatory, Antioxidant, Antiemetic

cannabidiol (CBD)
Boiling point: 160-180*C / 320-356 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Anxiolytic, Analgesic, Antipsychotic, Antiinflammatory, Antioxidant, Antispasmodic

Cannabinol (CBN)
Boiling point: 185*C / 365 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: (Oxidation breakdown product) Sedative, Antibiotic

cannabichromene (CBC)
Boiling point: 220*C / 428 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Antiinflammatory, Antibiotic, Antifungal

Δ-8-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ-8-THC)
Boiling point: 175-178*C / 347-352.4 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Resembles Δ-9-THC, Less psychoactive, More stable Antiemetic

tetrahydrocannabivarin (THCV)
Boiling point: < 220*C / <428 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Analgesic, Euphoriant


Terpenoid essential oils, their boiling points, and properties

&#946;-myrcene
Boiling point: 166-168*C / 330.8-334.4 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Analgesic. Antiinflammatory, Antibiotic, Antimutagenic

&#946;-caryophyllene
Boiling point: 119*C / 246.2 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Antiinflammatory, Cytoprotective (gastric mucosa), Antimalarial

d-limonene
Boiling point: 177*C / 350.6 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Cannabinoid agonist?, Immune potentiator, Antidepressant, Antimutagenic

linalool
Boiling point: 198*C / 388.4 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Sedative, Antidepressant, Anxiolytic, Immune potentiator

pulegone
Boiling point: 224*C / 435.2 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Memory booster?, AChE inhibitor, Sedative, Antipyretic

1,8-cineole (eucalyptol)
Boiling point: 176*C / 348.8 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: AChE inhibitor, Increases cerebral, blood flow, Stimulant, Antibiotic, Antiviral, Antiinflammatory, Antinociceptive

&#945;-pinene
Boiling point: 156*C / 312.8 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Antiinflammatory, Bronchodilator, Stimulant, Antibiotic, Antineoplastic, AChE inhibitor

&#945;-terpineol
Boiling point: 217-218*C / 422.6-424.4 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Sedative, Antibiotic, AChE inhibitor, Antioxidant, Antimalarial

terpineol-4-ol
Boiling point: 209*C / 408.2 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: AChE inhibitor. Antibiotic

p-cymene
Boiling point: 177*C / 350.6 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Antibiotic, Anticandidal, AChE inhibitor

borneol
Boiling point: 210*C / 410 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Antibiotic, &#916;-3-carene 0.004% 168 Antiinflammatory

&#916;-3-carene
Boiling point: 168*C / 334.4 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Antiinflammatory

Flavonoid and phytosterol components, their boiling points, and properties

apigenin
Boiling point: 178*C / 352.4 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Anxiolytic, Antiinflammatory, Estrogenic

quercetin
Boiling point: 250*C / 482 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Antioxidant, Antimutagenic, Antiviral, Antineoplastic

cannflavin A
Boiling point: 182*C / 359.6 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: COX inhibitor, LO inhibitor

&#946;-sitosterol
Boiling point: 134*C / 273.2 degree Fahrenheit
Properties: Antiinflammatory, 5-&#945;-reductase, inhibit

thanks for the info

here's my harvest. troll looked very good. headband wasn't nearly as nice. never seen great results with these new kush plants. better off with a classic afghan to be honest! if that's what you are into. think i'm sticking to more sativa hybrids from now on.

also some shots of my grow room. had to fish out 3 males, not very lucky at all! still, vortex and apollo looking good! amnesia at the back right smells divine!

Wendy

420

couple more shots, new borns and the apollo bx. isnt she pretty!

[FONT=.HelveticaNeueUI]Looks&#8203;[/FONT] awesome Wendy! Thanks for sharing! How big is the room? Mad props also for going "off the grid"

Also a quick question, or two, what size are your airpots and where did you procure them? Thanks in advance!

Loving this thread! I'm a newb so, some things are a little hard for me to understand. But trying to gain as much info before my babes get here. Thanks to all! Wendy, you were able to experience ice cream? I too will be trying her out. Any suggestions? Thanks