What am i doing wrong?! pics!
- Thread starter aram
- Start date
piratesmoker
Active Member
They look really thirsty to me, but i could be completly wrong, good luck man!
HKTactical
Active Member
Looks like you need better ventalation or an fan in there.
bubbastickyfingers
Active Member
those arn't marijuana plants are they?
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
are you sure those are marijuana plants? cuz im 99.9 percent sure they are not.alot of those leaves are all the wrong shape and only 1 fingered
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
aha, i see! I came upon this post in the newest posts feature, i didnt realize its in the gardening section till you said something.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
ps. I guess some other people did the same thing, lol, thanks reaver
strain stalker
New Member
your flood'n them too much, overwatered as a couple has stated, good luck! 
aram
Member
true. i didnt want my first hydroponic grow to be a failure (and waste precious seeds) so i planted peppers and cherry tomatoes instead.
i also have jolokias and habaneros in there
captain insaneo
Well-Known Member
http://www.gthydro.com/vegetables.html
for starters
peppers and tomatoes need different nute loads and and what not
for starters
peppers and tomatoes need different nute loads and and what not
Barron
Well-Known Member
How often to flood (flood frequency) is determined by three factors.
1.How long it takes for the plants to show drooping or wilting between floods.
2.How large the planter of rocks is (wether or not the roots are drying out too much).
3.The dryness of the root mat in the tray outside of the planters must also be considered, you cannot allow it to get too dried out between floods.
A good rule of thumb, with expanded clay in planters is to begin with floods every four hours while the lights are on and watch the plants for any signs of wilting just before the next flood. If 4 hours between floods causes the plants to droop, than shorten the time between floods by a half hour to 3-1/2.
As the plants grow larger, a mat of roots will grow out of the planters, onto the tray between the planters. The floods should be often enough to keep this root mat from becoming too dried out between floods, including the long dry spell overnight during the 12/12 flowering stage. You should monitor the condition of the root mat to make sure the roots stay semi-moist.
A good way to check this is to have the first flood start a few minutes after the lights come on, if the roots are dry before the first flood, you will need to have one fast flood at night. Otherwise the drying can cause stunted growth and reduced yield.
Keeping the tray covered with plastic wrap will help keep the root mat moist and help to slow down evaporation, thus preventing the need for a night flood and helping to keep the rooms relative humidity controlled.
A better solution is to build a cover plate for the tray which holds the planters slightly suspended above the tray to encourage a thick and healthy root mat growing in the tray, which will also cure the problem of roots getting too dry overnight. click here for more details
Remember to check the trays drains often to make sure they're not getting clogged by roots or loose medium (small grow rocks).
I did not write this but thought it might help. https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/4148-ebb-flow-question-flood-frequency.html
1.How long it takes for the plants to show drooping or wilting between floods.
2.How large the planter of rocks is (wether or not the roots are drying out too much).
3.The dryness of the root mat in the tray outside of the planters must also be considered, you cannot allow it to get too dried out between floods.
A good rule of thumb, with expanded clay in planters is to begin with floods every four hours while the lights are on and watch the plants for any signs of wilting just before the next flood. If 4 hours between floods causes the plants to droop, than shorten the time between floods by a half hour to 3-1/2.
As the plants grow larger, a mat of roots will grow out of the planters, onto the tray between the planters. The floods should be often enough to keep this root mat from becoming too dried out between floods, including the long dry spell overnight during the 12/12 flowering stage. You should monitor the condition of the root mat to make sure the roots stay semi-moist.
A good way to check this is to have the first flood start a few minutes after the lights come on, if the roots are dry before the first flood, you will need to have one fast flood at night. Otherwise the drying can cause stunted growth and reduced yield.
Keeping the tray covered with plastic wrap will help keep the root mat moist and help to slow down evaporation, thus preventing the need for a night flood and helping to keep the rooms relative humidity controlled.
A better solution is to build a cover plate for the tray which holds the planters slightly suspended above the tray to encourage a thick and healthy root mat growing in the tray, which will also cure the problem of roots getting too dry overnight. click here for more details
Remember to check the trays drains often to make sure they're not getting clogged by roots or loose medium (small grow rocks).
I did not write this but thought it might help. https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/4148-ebb-flow-question-flood-frequency.html
captain insaneo
Well-Known Member
LOOK, YOU CANT FUCKING OVER WATER WITH A HYDRO SYSTEM*, I dont care if you go 15 on 15 off. If you could over water in a hydro DCW would not exist. You are over nuting them pure and simple. I have hydro tomatoes and that is what they look like when the water level gets low and the salt concentration gets too high. If you do hydro, you NEED a ph AND a TDS meters you can not rely on the directions on the bottle.
*The only result of over watering in a hydro system is reduced o2 to the roots which can be fixed by an air stone in the res, and algae on the medium. Both are minor.
*The only result of over watering in a hydro system is reduced o2 to the roots which can be fixed by an air stone in the res, and algae on the medium. Both are minor.
aram
Member
great! thanks. i actually have a pH meter coming in the mail this week, and an EC meter on it's way from Hong Kong (should take another 3 weeks). I was planning on bringing down the nute concentration to around 1 EC but had so far been following the instructions on the label.
i was also a little surprised when i was told that i'm over watering them. i had been told by my hydro supply guy that it's almost impossible to overwater in a hydro system. I have a bucket DCW running behind this set up that seems to be doing much better though it's a little light starved. I was going to move my tomato to a DCW as soon as my HPS comes in the mail, which might be today *figners crosses*.
anyway, i'll bring the watering cycle back to 3-4 times a day (my tray floor is usually always filled with water, not very good drainage) and cut down the nutes by half and add a few more CFLs and we'll see how they like it.
thanks for the help! i'll post some more pictures soon
i do have an air stone in my reservoir along with peroxide. so i'm pretty sure lack of O2 is not the issue.
i was also a little surprised when i was told that i'm over watering them. i had been told by my hydro supply guy that it's almost impossible to overwater in a hydro system. I have a bucket DCW running behind this set up that seems to be doing much better though it's a little light starved. I was going to move my tomato to a DCW as soon as my HPS comes in the mail, which might be today *figners crosses*.
anyway, i'll bring the watering cycle back to 3-4 times a day (my tray floor is usually always filled with water, not very good drainage) and cut down the nutes by half and add a few more CFLs and we'll see how they like it.
thanks for the help! i'll post some more pictures soon
i do have an air stone in my reservoir along with peroxide. so i'm pretty sure lack of O2 is not the issue.
captain insaneo
Well-Known Member
then it is nute burn
Hoochy
Well-Known Member
Guys they are not over watered, they look more under watered, but otherwise there is nothing wrong with them. They look perfect! One thing you may want to consider doing is raising those lights though, These plants don't need excessive light, and you'll just burn the fine leaves of these plants.
Pepper plants have heavy leaves and light stems. I have about 14 Chilli/Pepper varieties and in an ideal climate of humidity and temp the leaves will droop a little.
None the less, stress less, and enjoy the fruits
Pepper plants have heavy leaves and light stems. I have about 14 Chilli/Pepper varieties and in an ideal climate of humidity and temp the leaves will droop a little.
None the less, stress less, and enjoy the fruits