What is up with these leaves ????????

Is this over watering?

Yeah, over watering is my cursory diagnosis. You've been over watering, haven't you, Clint?

You know what happens when you over water a person? Hyponatremia. Yeah

Sure does look like it.

I havn't watered for 2 days pots are drying out but leaf curl is getting worse and 1 of my other plants is starting to do the same.
Could it be something apart from overwatering ?

Heat stress.............

Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.

1. Too much marijuana fertilizer
   The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigor and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
   A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
2. High Heat
   The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf dessication or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. Too much light
   Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
4. Over Watering
   For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.
5. Not Enough Water
   Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.

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Thanks sxlstew
very informative info there
you might be right heat stress
temp usally floats around 25c - 30c
i thought these were in the right area temp wise
unless it's heat stress from light , i run a 400w hps around 2foot ubove plants , i can keep back of my hand under it and its not to hot ?

get a fan blowing in there

Ditto this, agree 100 %

Unfortunately - it is pretty common for a problem to get worse before it gets better. The problem can already be fixed - but things will still have to run their course - this can mean leaves continuing to get worse for a few days after before they start to bounce back.

Looks like over watering to me. Let the soil dry out. Water when the pots feel light and when the top inch or two of soil is dry. This will take a lot of close attention on your part to see exactly when the plants need to be watered. With a little experience, you will be able to fine tune waterings and read your plants needs.

Don't worry, she will bounce back. Make sure your pots and soil drain well also.

i would give em a nestle bottled water witch has around 250ppm when you're Bone DRY !

not to much ... i learned that if you give small amount multiple times is better then a lot and not have to worry about it ... thats for when the root system isint fully established ones it is and you know what youre doing you should water them every 2-3 days max


seeing the size of you;re pot vs size of you're plant and where its wet i can see a problem as well where you could eventuly have root rot witch already happend to me +those small white bugs crawling over to eat the death roots ect ( witch is a good thing if it happends, they keep working at cleaning the mess you did like little a little army

i would give 250ml +- of water everytime i need to water it and make sure to not put to much water on the outer diameter of the center of the pot , in other words as close of the stem as possibe and graduly adding more and more water and going more and more twards the edge of the pot , that way you will progress you're feeding at the same time as you're root system , did this trick last 2 crops when im about to put my home made clones in the flowering room and turned out amaaaazing results

btw im doing clones in a styrofoam cup filled with coco in a closet after having them in my ez-cloner and there at a constant 29-31c and there amazing , i gave them 60ml of bottled water (250ppm) when the coco is FULL dry and they crave everytime ! no nutes yet , the minerals in the bottled water is high enough at that stage,

so thats 2 weeks in the ez-cloner , 2 weeks in the styrofoam cups filled with coco ( i make as many hole on the bottom of the cup for drainage ) , then in the flowering room for some serious wipping and there already so tuff and big that they crave for more .. !


for the clones ones in the styrofoam cup and filled with cooc i have to feed when i get up , and before i sleep , example one of em is going to be dry in the morning , and at night a other one will be dry but the first one is going to be perfecly dry by next morning , more further i let em in there more i have to feed per day , at the end of 10-14 days i would be feeding almost every 4 hours or so & the cup is now 100% full of roots .. at the point of not seeing the coco anymore ! just a ball of roots !! then take them to the flowering room and directly give em 600ppm and + the first week there in there already asking for more

hope this helps , my plants use to look 100% like yours ....now im on a other ball game

btw go with coco next time ... so much easier + more roots .

CO2 said:

btw go with coco next time ... so much easier + more roots .

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Thanks for all the info co2 i will start watering small amounts more often , I am growing in coco perlite mix
The roots have already hit bottom of pots , they are poking out of holes in bottom of pot ,they are a nice white color
So i think they have already filled my 4 and 3 gal pots full with roots
my plants are around 16 days old now

you gotta have an emergency system in place! haha make a little tent with some potato bag mesh and some squewers cover the plant fromd irtect light and let that dry out and keep it that way for 2 days after its dried then water again

wil try buddy

I think you should wait another day or two and then have a look..may be you will see some improvement.

Roterneylastergen said:

I think you should wait another day or two and then have a look..may be you will see some improvement.

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I think your right , there is a little improvment today when i cheacked on them