What Light is better for veg only from led or induction?
- Thread starter augusto1
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AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
LEDs are brighter than the sun... I compared the two and my eyes hurt more after looking directly into my COB rather than the Sun itself.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Induction is basically a fancy fluoro. Efficiency is about 25% initially. It heavily depends on a reflector because the light is emitted in every direction, so much of the efficiency is penalized from the bouncing and many photons will be scattered laterally and miss the canopy. To some extent to bulb itself blocks its own light. With all due respect to those that have invested in Induction, my genuine question is what advantage does induction have over 32W T8 fluoro tubes which are 100lm/W and cost so much less?
So vegging is something that LEDs are very good at. It allows you to spread light evenly across the canopy using very little vertical height and it does not require any reflector because it emits all of its output in a cone shape. You can use plain old 5K 70 CRi and get great results. You can achieve 42.5% efficiency very affordably using $4.50 Vero 10 5000K COBs and driving 5 of them at 280mA with these cheap drivers and cheap heatsinks. Passive cooling, no moving parts, silent. Their output will never fade, even over the years, decades?. You can build them in large sizes or tiny sizes using just a few watts to light cloning boxes, mother boxes, seedling boxes or tiny stealth grows and still maintain those very high levels of efficiency. LED is awesome for veg there is really nothing like it
So vegging is something that LEDs are very good at. It allows you to spread light evenly across the canopy using very little vertical height and it does not require any reflector because it emits all of its output in a cone shape. You can use plain old 5K 70 CRi and get great results. You can achieve 42.5% efficiency very affordably using $4.50 Vero 10 5000K COBs and driving 5 of them at 280mA with these cheap drivers and cheap heatsinks. Passive cooling, no moving parts, silent. Their output will never fade, even over the years, decades?. You can build them in large sizes or tiny sizes using just a few watts to light cloning boxes, mother boxes, seedling boxes or tiny stealth grows and still maintain those very high levels of efficiency. LED is awesome for veg there is really nothing like it
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hyroot
Well-Known Member
growth is about the same. But you only need 1/3 less watts with led. Supra a t8 can't penetrate past 2 inches. Induction can penetrate about 4 feet. T8 bulbs last about 3 months. Induction bulbs last 10 years. T8's have endcaps. Inductions don't. They use magnets to excite gases. T8's don't. how does a bulb block itself? Induction has a cri of 95. Imo cri trumps over par. I've seen first hand Inda gro kick the shit out of 2013 a51's with inda gro having less par and higher cri. It was 460w of ig vs 465w of a51. Oh and the only t8's with a decent spectrum are hagens. They run about $40 a bulb for 4 foot. Cree led t8's are cheaper.
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Fease
Well-Known Member
Lol your gonna burn your corneas outta your head. I did stare at the sun quite a bit as a kid though. It turns red, trippy. But don't do it!!!! lol
Thank you all of you for your respond, I was searching on the net and found this led " Diamond Series EX-Veg - 5W CREE XT-E LEDs ", they have two models 200watts and 300 watts I am going to start reading the led diy as I am going to use a 14'x14' room for vegging only and if I am not mistaken at least 9 of those are needed to cover the hole area.
Thanks again and in advance for your helps.
Thanks again and in advance for your helps.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
I am not convinced that high CRI has any special mojo. When I switched from red/white/blue LED to all white LED, there was no miraculous gains even though the CRI improved dramatically. So why would increasing CRI from 70 to 90 allow a low efficiency light like induction to surpass a decent efficiency LED like A51? (I cannot vouch for how well the A51 cools the LEDs, I have never taken one apart and it is critical to keep reds cool).
Fluoro bulbs are so large relative to their output that many of photons emitted upwards bounce off the reflector and then hit the bulb., absorbing bouncing and scattering. Every bounce taxes and scatters the output.
According to this data, a 24000 hour rated T8 maintains over 95% of its output after 9600 hours (533 days of 18/6 vegging). They are not talking about fancy T8, they are $2.50 each if you buy a case.