what pump for eco plus 1/10hp waterchiller

well im going to be ordering a chiller but i dont know what pump to get . it says minium 132gph, i dont want the minium . i want what everyone else uses, the right one.do i need a mag drive or in line pump . my res is 80gal. any help would be great im looking to order asap

Dependson where your putting the chiller. You want to put the chiller somewhere will they temp will always be above about 60 degrees, but where its heat out put will not be a bother. IE unless you want to heat up the room do not put u it in that room. Put it in a basement or garge or room that can toerate its heat output. If it is on the same floor and near cby then any pump putting out between about 150 and 180 gallon will be abuout right. If putting it a long distance awy then use an Iwaki pressure rated pump. Even the small one can be handle the chiller being on a floor below or above the oumps and it will work fine. The smallest Iwaki RZT pump is the MD-20RZT rated at 174 gallons. It is a pressure rared pump so it will not lose much flow or volume do to kust a floor distance in height or 30 or 40 ft of pipe. A common small low pressure pump would not even pump 8 foot high or if it could pump that high it would only pump about 5% to 15% of its volume rating most likely. Second best choice is the Iwaki MD-30RZT rated at 270 gallons per hour. With this pump you could put the chiller 50 feet away or 2 floors below or above from the reservoir and still get great flow. There are some brand new ones on sell on eBay for $109. There regular retail price is about $300. Compare that to the 250 gph Danner pump used by namany growers. It will not pump water higher than 7 feet. And even at zero feet of pumping height and straight from the pumps discharge (no pumbing) the pressure delivered is 1/5 of that of the the Iwaki MD-30RZT. But it only cost about $65

fatman7574 said:

Dependson where your putting the chiller. You want to put the chiller somewhere will they temp will always be above about 60 degrees, but where its heat out put will not be a bother. IE unless you want to heat up the room do not put u it in that room. Put it in a basement or garge or room that can toerate its heat output. If it is on the same floor and near cby then any pump putting out between about 150 and 180 gallon will be abuout right. If putting it a long distance awy then use an Iwaki pressure rated pump. Even the small one can be handle the chiller being on a floor below or above the oumps and it will work fine. The smallest Iwaki RZT pump is the MD-20RZT rated at 174 gallons. It is a pressure rared pump so it will not lose much flow or volume do to kust a floor distance in height or 30 or 40 ft of pipe. A common small low pressure pump would not even pump 8 foot high or if it could pump that high it would only pump about 5% to 15% of its volume rating most likely. Second best choice is the Iwaki MD-30RZT rated at 270 gallons per hour. With this pump you could put the chiller 50 feet away or 2 floors below or above from the reservoir and still get great flow. There are some brand new ones on sell on eBay for $109. There regular retail price is about $300. Compare that to the 250 gph Danner pump used by namany growers. It will not pump water higher than 7 feet. And even at zero feet of pumping height and straight from the pumps discharge (no pumbing) the pressure delivered is 1/5 of that of the the Iwaki MD-30RZT. But it only cost about $65

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thanks fatman. what your saying sounds great , i didt factor in the heat off the chiller , my grow is in the basement already , in the summer i can keep the temps at 80f and under without a/c. this summer may be different . so are you saying i should try and put the chiller ina different room then ? what about the other end of my basement or something?i could put it above in my living room and run the plumbing threw the heating ducts or drill a hole . im looking into those pumps on ebay later today

You just want to have the chiller in a place where its heat out put will not be a problem. Ie in the winter out it in a place that needs heat. In the summer setit in a place that it will not over heat. IE such as in the garage or outdoors ibehind the bushs etc.

fatman7574 said:

You just want to have the chiller in a place where its heat out put will not be a problem. Ie in the winter out it in a place that needs heat. In the summer setit in a place that it will not over heat. IE such as in the garage or outdoors ibehind the bushs etc.

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excellent thanks . do you use this pump yourself ? i found the MD-30 for 109.99, im going to buy it , standard 110v i hope ? also would you know the correct hose size i need or if i need any adapters to fit the hoses ?, just so i can order all together , if not i will wait till i get it , just throwing that out there . Now the heat from the chiller would it compare to the heat off a 1000watt hps ballast? (Magnetic) thanks for the help on this one

I use many of them on reef pumps plus I still use them for pumping chilled water through water cooled lights. I used to use them on many medium pressure large tube aero systems but I am converting them to air atomized systems. I have MD-20RZT, MD-30RZT and MD-70RZT pumps in use now. Also a stack of used 30's and 70's. They run for two to 3 years 24/7 before needing new bearings and seals. The pumps are sold in both 110 and 220. The 220 volt usually sell for less as they are less in demand.

The inlet and the outlet are 3/4" diameter pipe thread. That means the inside of the pipe is approx 3/4'" and the outside diamter is approx 1". That means for efficiency you use "nterior diameter hose. IE typically 1" vinyl hose. Preferably you cover that with foam pipe insulation. Ifyou use smaller tubing, say 3/4" the barbs tubing fitting outside diameter will be 3/4" but the inside of the fittings will just be 1/2". This greatly lowers pumping efficiency. If you use barb fittings for 1" hose then the inside diameters will be 3/4" so no lowered pumping efficiency. The 1" tubing is not that much more expensive then 3/4inch. If you want to go top of the line use 3/4" or 1" flex PVC pipe (often called Spa Pipe). It does not kink, deform or collapse like vinyl hose but it does cost more. It uses standard PVC pipe fittings and solvent (cement/glue) so the fittings go around the pout size of the flexible pipe rather than going inside the pipe. This means 3/4" Spa pipe will fuction efficiency wise as well as 1" vinyl tubing.

alrighty thanks fatman everything is ordered. another expert answer toot toot

well ive got it now . all im waiting for is the iwaki pump . the chiller is going to be in another room thats vented , where should i place the pump ? also the manual says well stresses that i need a filter bag, but thats for summericable pumps . what should i do, iwakis are inline right ?

Iwakis are external in-line. The RZT pumps are high pressure, high lift pumps. I use standard full size particulate filters as used with an RO filer for prefiltering. They can be bought at Wilmar for less than $20. They pump is usually is placed at the lowest part of the system, meaning by the chiller. I would use an over sized pipe or tubing to feed the pump by gravity from the reservoir. IE use at least one side larger, if it is a 3/4" inlet then use 1" pipe or tubing. Put the filter right after the pumps discharge and follow that by the chiller. To relay improve the system use a venturi valve on the return line to the reservoir. You can actually put it right in the reservoir. It will assure maximum dissolved oxygen (DO) in your reservoir water. http://www.petstore.com/Kent_Marine_Black_Turbo_Venturi_3_4_inch_Protein_Skimmers-Kent_Marine-KM2851-AQSWPS-vi.html

ok i will do thanks for the link . hmmm i was planning on putting the chiller 1 room above (spare bathroom)my res is in the basement , is this still doable ?

In that case I would put the pump next to the reservoir and the filter right after the pump. Run the feed from the filter to the chiller. Put the venturi on the exit d from the chiller. Use larger pipefrom the venturi to the resrvir. to the reservoir. The venturi size should be thesame as the chiller outlet. with a small chiller you may have to drop down to a 1/2" venturi valve. http://www.aquariumguys.com/turboventuri1.html Most stores surprising charge more for the 1/2" valve than the 3/4" valve.

does that valve just allow air in to the line ? like putting a straw ina a bottle to make it drain faster. so have the filter in the res then threw the pump, to chiller and back threw venturi to the res? , hope im not confusing . im ordering hose , filter and venturi within the next 24 hrs, thanks agian for the help. everything is coming together

The venturi pressuredifference from one side of the venturi to the other actually causes air to be sucked into the valve and therefore into the water stream. You simply attach a small tube to the venturi's side inlet and have the tube end above the water height in the chiller. If you want less air drawn in you attach an aquarium air valve etc to limit the air drawn in.

The most efficient use of an venturi with reservoirs is to attach the venturi to the inlet side of the pump. Then the air drawn in tothe pump is chopped up into very tiny bubbles by the pump impeller. however in your case that would mean sending all those bubbles through the chiller and this would lower the chillers efficiency as the air is an insultor so heat exchange would be slower.

fatman7574 said:

I use many of them on reef pumps plus I still use them for pumping chilled water through water cooled lights. I used to use them on many medium pressure large tube aero systems but I am converting them to air atomized systems. I have MD-20RZT, MD-30RZT and MD-70RZT pumps in use now. Also a stack of used 30's and 70's. They run for two to 3 years 24/7 before needing new bearings and seals. The pumps are sold in both 110 and 220. The 220 volt usually sell for less as they are less in demand.

The inlet and the outlet are 3/4" diameter pipe thread. That means the inside of the pipe is approx 3/4'" and the outside diamter is approx 1". That means for efficiency you use "nterior diameter hose. IE typically 1" vinyl hose. Preferably you cover that with foam pipe insulation. Ifyou use smaller tubing, say 3/4" the barbs tubing fitting outside diameter will be 3/4" but the inside of the fittings will just be 1/2". This greatly lowers pumping efficiency. If you use barb fittings for 1" hose then the inside diameters will be 3/4" so no lowered pumping efficiency. The 1" tubing is not that much more expensive then 3/4inch. If you want to go top of the line use 3/4" or 1" flex PVC pipe (often called Spa Pipe). It does not kink, deform or collapse like vinyl hose but it does cost more. It uses standard PVC pipe fittings and solvent (cement/glue) so the fittings go around the pout size of the flexible pipe rather than going inside the pipe. This means 3/4" Spa pipe will fuction efficiency wise as well as 1" vinyl tubing.

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ok im glad your helping on this, i got the iwaki, it came today , ive got a small sample of 1 inch hose , it wont fit so i either need adapters or bigger hose . the problem gets worse as my chiller needs 3/4 inch hos so bigger hose wont work . the venturi valve is going to have to wait im gonna order one soon . i just wanna get the basics set up. im thinking of going to the home depot and looking around , i know nothing about plumbing

Your pump should have both the inlet and outlet as 3/4" male threads. Yes that is larger than 3/4" for an outside diameter. It is around 7/8" The inside diameter is 3/4" approx. What you need if it is threaded on both the inlet and outlets is what is called barbed hose fittings/adapters. One end fits overthe threaded pipe anfd the tubing fits over the other barbed end. You need t ones that are 3/4" female to what ever theinsidediamter is of your tubing. Usually I recommend that people use a 3/$ female threaded to 1" tubing barb fitting. that means the insidediameter of the tubing should be1" diameter. You likely have tubing that has a 1" outside diameter. The trick to vinyl tubing is to heat a cup of water up to almost boilinfg and stick the end of the tubing in the water for a minute or so. the tubing will be soft and will easily stretch to fit over larger pipe. It will be so tight once it cools that to remove it yu will need to cut it off. For the chiller put a piece of tubing over it that must be heated to go on. Then heat your larger tubing and push it on over the smaller tubing. Installed in a manner where it has to be heated to install it is so tight once cool that hose clamps are really not even needed to hold the hose on the pump etc. It is however a good idea to use them anyway.

fatman7574 said:

Your pump should have both the inlet and outlet as 3/4" male threads. Yes that is larger than 3/4" for an outside diameter. It is around 7/8" The inside diameter is 3/4" approx. What you need if it is threaded on both the inlet and outlets is what is called barbed hose fittings/adapters. One end fits overthe threaded pipe anfd the tubing fits over the other barbed end. You need t ones that are 3/4" female to what ever theinsidediamter is of your tubing. Usually I recommend that people use a 3/$ female threaded to 1" tubing barb fitting. that means the insidediameter of the tubing should be1" diameter. You likely have tubing that has a 1" outside diameter. The trick to vinyl tubing is to heat a cup of water up to almost boilinfg and stick the end of the tubing in the water for a minute or so. the tubing will be soft and will easily stretch to fit over larger pipe. It will be so tight once it cools that to remove it yu will need to cut it off. For the chiller put a piece of tubing over it that must be heated to go on. Then heat your larger tubing and push it on over the smaller tubing. Installed in a manner where it has to be heated to install it is so tight once cool that hose clamps are really not even needed to hold the hose on the pump etc. It is however a good idea to use them anyway.

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excellent Bud i think im good to go