What's up with this?
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Jussblaz3420
Well-Known Member
Turn up
H R Puff N Stuff
Well-Known Member
looks like heat damage. get a temp gauge that reads the hotest and coldest temp of the day as well as current temp. after 90 deg.your plant will stress
ayr0n
Well-Known Member
Turn down for what?? Well..maybe for excessive heat
cann.i.bliss
Well-Known Member
That sucks dude I feel ya pain, if your positive you over fertilized and it was pretty bad usually foliage won't recover unless it was just minor burn but it looks like a little bit of heat stress to which being stressed already would be pretty easy to do if your not gona keep slushing I would try a weak seaweed tonic just to help with the stress
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Some are quite correct,,,HEAT was the problem.....Your temps are and were, way to high!
85F should be the upper limit.
I'll also bet that the canopy level "felt" heat was well over 95!
At around 85F your plant begins to shift from putting it's strength from growing, into attempting to stay cool to protect it's self.
It tries to do this by increasing transpiration. This robs the plant of energy it would otherwise use to continue growth.
At 90F the plant is pretty much dormant as far as any growth goes.
One way to detect this is increased water demand...Not the best way, but if you see this. You can increase to keep up with plant demands and that helps. The things to do are to increase space between the canopy and the the light (Put your hand out flat at canopy level,,,feel hot?) Move light up and add air flow across the plants if you have none. Add air conditioning to the room. This is by far the best solution for the long term.
Another sign of heat stress is something that I have seen called a Mg problem here....It is not and in reality does not resemble a Mg problem at all......"Limp, dying leaf edges" , and I do mean limp.....are the wake up call of advanced heat stress that IS going to turn into leaf damage , as these areas are going to turn brown and crispy....This will advance into the leaf, depending on the amount of heat exposure.
This browned leaf problem is now commonly mistaken for nutrient burn......
Some of the best FIRST signs of heat stress to look for are "canoeing"(The side "points" of the leaves are turning "up") and "cupping"(The whole leaf begins to curl "up" from the sides in) of leaves......as canoeing turns to cupping you are getting to the point where the above listed damage can happen....Canoeing point is the best time to adjust whats going on to prevent the forth coming problems if left untreated.
They can still finish out...But Jim is right....they will have a greatly reduced quality yield.
There is always a next time as you learn.....do not give up on those....you will get something to help you get to the end of your next grow.
85F should be the upper limit.
I'll also bet that the canopy level "felt" heat was well over 95!
At around 85F your plant begins to shift from putting it's strength from growing, into attempting to stay cool to protect it's self.
It tries to do this by increasing transpiration. This robs the plant of energy it would otherwise use to continue growth.
At 90F the plant is pretty much dormant as far as any growth goes.
One way to detect this is increased water demand...Not the best way, but if you see this. You can increase to keep up with plant demands and that helps. The things to do are to increase space between the canopy and the the light (Put your hand out flat at canopy level,,,feel hot?) Move light up and add air flow across the plants if you have none. Add air conditioning to the room. This is by far the best solution for the long term.
Another sign of heat stress is something that I have seen called a Mg problem here....It is not and in reality does not resemble a Mg problem at all......"Limp, dying leaf edges" , and I do mean limp.....are the wake up call of advanced heat stress that IS going to turn into leaf damage , as these areas are going to turn brown and crispy....This will advance into the leaf, depending on the amount of heat exposure.
This browned leaf problem is now commonly mistaken for nutrient burn......
Some of the best FIRST signs of heat stress to look for are "canoeing"(The side "points" of the leaves are turning "up") and "cupping"(The whole leaf begins to curl "up" from the sides in) of leaves......as canoeing turns to cupping you are getting to the point where the above listed damage can happen....Canoeing point is the best time to adjust whats going on to prevent the forth coming problems if left untreated.
They can still finish out...But Jim is right....they will have a greatly reduced quality yield.
There is always a next time as you learn.....do not give up on those....you will get something to help you get to the end of your next grow.
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some old pic when all started
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But guys i have other 2 and they look way better...is just that i have a slow grow with all of them the other 2 i have them since the begining of february... and i don't know what to do if i put nutrient they will burn and if i don't i have a slow grow...either way i have a slow grow...i've waited too much... i think i'm gonna toss them...
thx a lot dr.! What do you suggest? SHould i wait for this plant? if I harvest now what's gonna happen? Or when can i harvest?
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
The early pics say more.....Yes heat was a major problem......nothing to do now but run them out,,,except,,,,,I also see some other telling facts....Like in the second set , second pic. To much P to early and running the nutrients a bit hot.
Drop the high P nute or supplement and simply run them out with the base nutrient....
Run your veg or base nutrient to week 4 of bloom and then add a small amount of a higher P bloom nutrient if you have to (you don't). I bump the P up very little at week 4 and give it a "spike" of P at week 6 and then only once....in synthetic grows.....I like Hesi nutrients my self.....but in no way do I follow their schedule.
Want something simple and effective for nutrition? Run DynaGro....water, feed, water, feed.....simple, single package and you might only want to run some silica with it, if you want to...After a cpl of good grows,,,begin to experiment with small adjustments in bloom.....Dyna foliage pro works well too!
Good luck
Drop the high P nute or supplement and simply run them out with the base nutrient....
Run your veg or base nutrient to week 4 of bloom and then add a small amount of a higher P bloom nutrient if you have to (you don't). I bump the P up very little at week 4 and give it a "spike" of P at week 6 and then only once....in synthetic grows.....I like Hesi nutrients my self.....but in no way do I follow their schedule.
Want something simple and effective for nutrition? Run DynaGro....water, feed, water, feed.....simple, single package and you might only want to run some silica with it, if you want to...After a cpl of good grows,,,begin to experiment with small adjustments in bloom.....Dyna foliage pro works well too!
Good luck
Guys i really have some issues...I've found seeds in my female skunk(the plant in the pictures above and below)
I don't know what to do...i don't know where the polen came from or if it's because the light stress... I really need help!!!!
Those are some really bad photos, I know but i took them with an S3 and I can't do anything more clear...fucking focuse automatic shit....
PLEASE HELP! I HAVE 2 OTHER PLANTS AND I DON'T WANT TO THROW THEM ALL...
I don't know what to do...i don't know where the polen came from or if it's because the light stress... I really need help!!!!
Those are some really bad photos, I know but i took them with an S3 and I can't do anything more clear...fucking focuse automatic shit....
PLEASE HELP! I HAVE 2 OTHER PLANTS AND I DON'T WANT TO THROW THEM ALL...
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This is auto and i left it with the light on 3 days when i was gone...could this be the cause too?
