TheAngryLiberal
Active Member
are you supposed to use them right away or wait until they have a set of full leaves or something?
I am using mighty crobes if that matters.
I am using mighty crobes if that matters.
When can I use microbes?
- Thread starter TheAngryLiberal
- Start date
TheAngryLiberal
Active Member
bump anyone?
TheAngryLiberal
Active Member
holy crap doesn't anyone use beneficial bacteria?
I do, and I don't get your question.
The beneficial becateria is living in my soil, how can i choose when to USE them?
To grow using the soil food web system you need the beneficial (and less beneficial as well) fungi and bacteria along with the rest of the soil food web parts in your medium in healthy numbers.
From start to finish.
If you'r using any kind of specific product that introduce "beneficial bacteria" to the medium you might wanna tell us what it is.
The beneficial becateria is living in my soil, how can i choose when to USE them?
To grow using the soil food web system you need the beneficial (and less beneficial as well) fungi and bacteria along with the rest of the soil food web parts in your medium in healthy numbers.
From start to finish.
If you'r using any kind of specific product that introduce "beneficial bacteria" to the medium you might wanna tell us what it is.
stickybob
Active Member
Mighty Crobes
Request Price Quote
Ask a question about this product
Overview:
***This is not a fertilizer. 100% Organic. For use in indoor or our outdoor gardens and crops.
This concentrated solution is one of the most highly diverse microbial products on the market. It is produced by extracting beneficial microbes from composted materials that are aged for a long period of time. This patented aging process allows the microbes to achieve a rich diversity of aerobic, anaerobic and facultative organisms (Mycorrhizae fungi, beneficial Nematodes, beneficial bacteria etc.). Mighty Crobes has been filtered to approximately 100 microns and can be used in hydroponic systems and indoor g
ardens to mimic the biological activity in native soil. This proprietary solution contains soluble humus and a broad spectrum of microbial metabolites to mimic humus and the microbial community in undisturbed native soil. Please see the advantages of using this product below:
Benefits of Use:
When Mighty Crobes is part of the growing medium, plants grow stronger and have higher yields. Mighty Crobes adds not only organic material to the soil but it adds macro, micro and trace nutrients as well. Trace elements such as iron, manganese, copper, zinc and boron which are required for plant growth. The microorganisms produce hormones that help plants grow. Contains P.G.P.R.'s (Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria).
-A natural fortress defense system
-Accelerated plant and root growth (PGPR's)
-Maximizes yields
-Amazing structural transformation of the soil via excretions of microbial polysaccharides.
-Nitrogen fixing bacteria
-Long shelf life
Reduced rate of nutrient release & nutrient recycling
The microorganisms contained in Mighty Crobes utilize the nutrients in the soil when needed. This ensures that the nutrients are available over a longer period of time. The microbes also bind fertilizers with the soil which helps prevent fertilizers from running off to surface water during rain. This product also adds chelated micronutrients for easy plant absorption and mineralizes plant available nutrients such as calcium, iron, potassium, phosphorus, etc. - Nutrient Recycling.
Improved soil porosity
Microbial activity is essential for fertile soil. Microorganisms break down organic materials making the nutrients in these materials available to plants. Compacted soil does not allow the water and air required by soil microorganisms to penetrate below the soil surface. Due to the diversity and microbial activity Mighty Crobes is able to change the porous structure of the soil and which helps to increase soil porosity.
Improved water holding capacity
The improved quality of the soil and the quantity of microorganisms increases the soil's water-holding capacity. This means the plants are able retain and use the water between watering times.
Improved biological activity
Improved soil biology provides a competitive environment for overall plant health. Including inhibiting the chronic soil limitations, competition for space around roots themselves, and proving a safe zone of biology in the rhizosphere. Increased soil diversity creates an optimum environment for increased plant health and overall vigor.
Guaranteed Analysis:
Total Nitrogen (N)............................0.001%
0.00025% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
0.00025% Nitrate Nitrogen
0.00050% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Available Phosphoric Acid (P2O5 ).......0.0001%
Soluble Potash................................0.0001%
Application Rates:
When to apply: Begin applying at the first sign of root growth and continue until the early stages of flowering. (Cloning, Early growth, Vegetative and Flower)
Soil: Mix up to 1-2 ounces of Mighty Crobes per gallon of non-chlorinated water and shake vigorously. If using tap water, let the water air out for 30 minutes for the chlorine to dissipate. Apply approximately every three weeks until the plant is in its early flowering stage.
Hydroponic: Mix 1-2 ounces of Mighty Crobes per gallon of non-chlorinated water and shake vigorously. If using tap water, let it stand for 30 minutes to dissipate the chlorine. Apply approximately every three weeks until the plant is in its early flowering stage. Using an aerator in the reservoir, or airstone, increases biological activity.
***Do not use Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) or Chlorinated tap water with this product. Mix Mighty Crobes separately from nutrients.
Request Price Quote
Ask a question about this product
Overview:
***This is not a fertilizer. 100% Organic. For use in indoor or our outdoor gardens and crops.
This concentrated solution is one of the most highly diverse microbial products on the market. It is produced by extracting beneficial microbes from composted materials that are aged for a long period of time. This patented aging process allows the microbes to achieve a rich diversity of aerobic, anaerobic and facultative organisms (Mycorrhizae fungi, beneficial Nematodes, beneficial bacteria etc.). Mighty Crobes has been filtered to approximately 100 microns and can be used in hydroponic systems and indoor g
ardens to mimic the biological activity in native soil. This proprietary solution contains soluble humus and a broad spectrum of microbial metabolites to mimic humus and the microbial community in undisturbed native soil. Please see the advantages of using this product below:
Benefits of Use:
When Mighty Crobes is part of the growing medium, plants grow stronger and have higher yields. Mighty Crobes adds not only organic material to the soil but it adds macro, micro and trace nutrients as well. Trace elements such as iron, manganese, copper, zinc and boron which are required for plant growth. The microorganisms produce hormones that help plants grow. Contains P.G.P.R.'s (Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria).
-A natural fortress defense system
-Accelerated plant and root growth (PGPR's)
-Maximizes yields
-Amazing structural transformation of the soil via excretions of microbial polysaccharides.
-Nitrogen fixing bacteria
-Long shelf life
Reduced rate of nutrient release & nutrient recycling
The microorganisms contained in Mighty Crobes utilize the nutrients in the soil when needed. This ensures that the nutrients are available over a longer period of time. The microbes also bind fertilizers with the soil which helps prevent fertilizers from running off to surface water during rain. This product also adds chelated micronutrients for easy plant absorption and mineralizes plant available nutrients such as calcium, iron, potassium, phosphorus, etc. - Nutrient Recycling.
Improved soil porosity
Microbial activity is essential for fertile soil. Microorganisms break down organic materials making the nutrients in these materials available to plants. Compacted soil does not allow the water and air required by soil microorganisms to penetrate below the soil surface. Due to the diversity and microbial activity Mighty Crobes is able to change the porous structure of the soil and which helps to increase soil porosity.
Improved water holding capacity
The improved quality of the soil and the quantity of microorganisms increases the soil's water-holding capacity. This means the plants are able retain and use the water between watering times.
Improved biological activity
Improved soil biology provides a competitive environment for overall plant health. Including inhibiting the chronic soil limitations, competition for space around roots themselves, and proving a safe zone of biology in the rhizosphere. Increased soil diversity creates an optimum environment for increased plant health and overall vigor.
Guaranteed Analysis:
Total Nitrogen (N)............................0.001%
0.00025% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
0.00025% Nitrate Nitrogen
0.00050% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Available Phosphoric Acid (P2O5 ).......0.0001%
Soluble Potash................................0.0001%
Application Rates:
When to apply: Begin applying at the first sign of root growth and continue until the early stages of flowering. (Cloning, Early growth, Vegetative and Flower)
Soil: Mix up to 1-2 ounces of Mighty Crobes per gallon of non-chlorinated water and shake vigorously. If using tap water, let the water air out for 30 minutes for the chlorine to dissipate. Apply approximately every three weeks until the plant is in its early flowering stage.
Hydroponic: Mix 1-2 ounces of Mighty Crobes per gallon of non-chlorinated water and shake vigorously. If using tap water, let it stand for 30 minutes to dissipate the chlorine. Apply approximately every three weeks until the plant is in its early flowering stage. Using an aerator in the reservoir, or airstone, increases biological activity.
***Do not use Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) or Chlorinated tap water with this product. Mix Mighty Crobes separately from nutrients.
I'm sorry for being rude, but it looks like a piece of bullshit.
"...This patented aging process allows the microbes to achieve a rich diversity of aerobic, anaerobic and facultative organisms (Mycorrhizae fungi, beneficial Nematodes, beneficial bacteria etc.). ..."
If its bottled for more than a week I don't know many aerobic microbes that will survive as oxygen will run out.
I use something that this product claims to be pretty similar to, only I spend less than a dollar per application.
Its called AACT - actively aerated compost tea.
Basicly its putting dechlorinated (or RO, mineral or any water without chlorine) in a bucket, put some well made and matured compost, some molasses or natural sugar (the dark brown sticky one thats full of molasses) and use an air pump with an air stone to bubble it for 24 hours.
Then you dilute it 1:4 and water with it.
There are lots of things to add \ change and you can learn more on the subject if you'll google "compost tea".
If you need anything specific I might be able to help.
That way you get the aerobic microbes mainly, which are usually the ones you want anyway.
"...This patented aging process allows the microbes to achieve a rich diversity of aerobic, anaerobic and facultative organisms (Mycorrhizae fungi, beneficial Nematodes, beneficial bacteria etc.). ..."
If its bottled for more than a week I don't know many aerobic microbes that will survive as oxygen will run out.
I use something that this product claims to be pretty similar to, only I spend less than a dollar per application.
Its called AACT - actively aerated compost tea.
Basicly its putting dechlorinated (or RO, mineral or any water without chlorine) in a bucket, put some well made and matured compost, some molasses or natural sugar (the dark brown sticky one thats full of molasses) and use an air pump with an air stone to bubble it for 24 hours.
Then you dilute it 1:4 and water with it.
There are lots of things to add \ change and you can learn more on the subject if you'll google "compost tea".
If you need anything specific I might be able to help.
That way you get the aerobic microbes mainly, which are usually the ones you want anyway.
TheAngryLiberal
Active Member
fonz, not rude at all i like the advice but that sounds like a bit much for a beginner, ill try that next time, I dont even have a compost pile. i guess i should use the crobes now because they have roots and are drying out too fast from the peat pots and that says it'll help with that too.
and quick question about molasses; i have grandmas molasses but it isn't blackstrap (they didn't have any). will this work or should i look for the black stuff?
and quick question about molasses; i have grandmas molasses but it isn't blackstrap (they didn't have any). will this work or should i look for the black stuff?
GuerrillaGreenery
Active Member
bene's are good to use right from the start.
Its as simple as getting a bag of compost from the store, put a nice handfull in a gallon of dechlorinated water, and a teaspoon of molasses and bubble it for 24 hours.
If it doesn't smell very bad its good to use.
I don't think thats much for a beginner.
An even better start would be with high quality earth worm castings instead of compost. However, its more expensive.
As long as your molasses is not sulfured you'r fine.
TheAngryLiberal
Active Member
I have earthworm castings its called blackcasting i think but i don't have an air pump
TheAngryLiberal
Active Member
so just mix it in with a jug of water and shake a few times a day? do i need to leave the cap off?
a 6$ pump would do the trick. I think bottled nutes cost more.
I ran 5 plants with pretty much just AACT and some good organic mix I made and you can see the results in my journal.
Previously I was using BioBizz and Hesi (and some others) and it always ended up costing WAY more.
I always let my tea "breathe" but I don't place it in direct sunlight.
My incandescent lights and indirect sunlight I consider OK.
NEVER brew your tea without giving it air to exchange.
I ran 5 plants with pretty much just AACT and some good organic mix I made and you can see the results in my journal.
Previously I was using BioBizz and Hesi (and some others) and it always ended up costing WAY more.
I always let my tea "breathe" but I don't place it in direct sunlight.
My incandescent lights and indirect sunlight I consider OK.
NEVER brew your tea without giving it air to exchange.
woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
OK you have 2 types of armies working in the soil. The Fungi Army and the Microbe Army.
Microbe Army
These guys are easy to breed on your own or buy in a bottle. Great to use but you need some roots because they have a relationship with them, they convert food for the plant to eat. The easy way is bottle like you have or any of the products on the market, most big hydro guys have it in some form or other. Making an AACT tea is a shure fire way of getting them. Now as for AAct Tea's I do not recommend putting any type of manure in your tea. It is not safe and could produce pathogens and other nasty things. If you make tea use the following ingredients only. Worm castings, molasses @ 1/2 table spoon per gallon, Fulvic and Humic acid. You must use an air pump to get the best results. Air is very important in the production of Microbes and not using air allows the mix to go anaerobic which is very bad.
Compost teas have not been suitably characterized, nor have their purported benefits been validated scientifically
If your going to sound off post the research proof! To assume that “natural” means “safe” is erroneous and environmentally irresponsible. There is no “silver bullet” for plant health problems caused by poor soil health and improper plant selection and management.
your using the right molasses.
Fungi Army
These guys are hard to grow and are even harder to grow in any teas. You got to have these guys. The best way is to by them. Here is a good place to get them and learn more.
By the way when I feel I need to fiddle with my grow (99% organic) I make a tea for my plants. I use it just no scientific proof that it works.
Microbe Army
These guys are easy to breed on your own or buy in a bottle. Great to use but you need some roots because they have a relationship with them, they convert food for the plant to eat. The easy way is bottle like you have or any of the products on the market, most big hydro guys have it in some form or other. Making an AACT tea is a shure fire way of getting them. Now as for AAct Tea's I do not recommend putting any type of manure in your tea. It is not safe and could produce pathogens and other nasty things. If you make tea use the following ingredients only. Worm castings, molasses @ 1/2 table spoon per gallon, Fulvic and Humic acid. You must use an air pump to get the best results. Air is very important in the production of Microbes and not using air allows the mix to go anaerobic which is very bad.
Compost teas have not been suitably characterized, nor have their purported benefits been validated scientifically
If your going to sound off post the research proof! To assume that “natural” means “safe” is erroneous and environmentally irresponsible. There is no “silver bullet” for plant health problems caused by poor soil health and improper plant selection and management.
your using the right molasses.
Fungi Army
These guys are hard to grow and are even harder to grow in any teas. You got to have these guys. The best way is to by them. Here is a good place to get them and learn more.
By the way when I feel I need to fiddle with my grow (99% organic) I make a tea for my plants. I use it just no scientific proof that it works.
I use manure compost and homemade compost in my teas all the time and as long as its well made its good as gravey.
I also use other forms of sugars, seaweed extract, guanos, crushed oats and quite a few more things. There's a lot to explore with AACTs, but the basic components are compost (or EWC), molasses and kelp\humic acids.
Its really not hard to breed fungi.
You just need a fungi-dominant compost to begin with (mushroom compost, leaf compost, etc.), store it in a humid place (with some air exchange) for 3 days until fungi becomes visible and use it in your tea for 48 hours.
You go light on the sugars (half dose), use kelp or other food for the fungi and something they can breed on, like oats or other substracts.
Earthworm Castings (EWC) is bacterialy dominated so breeding a fungi dominant tea with EWC as a base is pretty hard.
In veg and the beginning of flowering marijuana likes slightly bacterial dominant medium. In late flowering it likes more to the fungi side, but still pretty even.
Bottled bacteria and fungi don't hold all the needed bacteria and fungi - they don't have the aerobic ones (as there's no oxygen left in the bottle) and your enviroment probably have some different ones.
There are scientific proofs that AACT works in some aspects, like light fertilizing and adding to the numbers of the soil food web microbes, but nothing really proper about the whole way it reacts.
by the way, microbes reffers to all the stuff in the soil.
I also use other forms of sugars, seaweed extract, guanos, crushed oats and quite a few more things. There's a lot to explore with AACTs, but the basic components are compost (or EWC), molasses and kelp\humic acids.
Its really not hard to breed fungi.
You just need a fungi-dominant compost to begin with (mushroom compost, leaf compost, etc.), store it in a humid place (with some air exchange) for 3 days until fungi becomes visible and use it in your tea for 48 hours.
You go light on the sugars (half dose), use kelp or other food for the fungi and something they can breed on, like oats or other substracts.
Earthworm Castings (EWC) is bacterialy dominated so breeding a fungi dominant tea with EWC as a base is pretty hard.
In veg and the beginning of flowering marijuana likes slightly bacterial dominant medium. In late flowering it likes more to the fungi side, but still pretty even.
Bottled bacteria and fungi don't hold all the needed bacteria and fungi - they don't have the aerobic ones (as there's no oxygen left in the bottle) and your enviroment probably have some different ones.
There are scientific proofs that AACT works in some aspects, like light fertilizing and adding to the numbers of the soil food web microbes, but nothing really proper about the whole way it reacts.
by the way, microbes reffers to all the stuff in the soil.
woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
Yes they are all microbes, I try to keep things simple when I try to explain as more people can use the info that way. If you found proof that AACT teas increase growth I would love to see it. As I said I use it but that does not mean it works or not, grand ma used it so must be Ok, I need more convincing than that. I am always ready to lear and be corrected so if you got research I would like to see it. Thanks.
fungi are very hard to get growing in purchased soils and all but imposable to grow in teas, they take to long to grow and get damaged in the process as they are very fragile. If you have all the army's working for you you will have a better yield. Most additaves don't have Fungi in them so most people don't even have fungi in their soil, and that's a shame as it makes a big difference. Something is better than nothing so all I'm saying is if your getting down under your dirt into the microbe level you need to look at fungi, after all it's not one thing that makes them grow it's lots of things and as we get wiser we get better.
fungi are very hard to get growing in purchased soils and all but imposable to grow in teas, they take to long to grow and get damaged in the process as they are very fragile. If you have all the army's working for you you will have a better yield. Most additaves don't have Fungi in them so most people don't even have fungi in their soil, and that's a shame as it makes a big difference. Something is better than nothing so all I'm saying is if your getting down under your dirt into the microbe level you need to look at fungi, after all it's not one thing that makes them grow it's lots of things and as we get wiser we get better.
some AACTs contain hormones that are charged for growth. thats proven.
How much of those and if they really make a difference I don't know if proven already.
They do increase the biological activity in the soil drasticly over a period of 2-3 days. Proven as well.
There's fungi everywhere.
The spores get everywhere, unless its sterile. Just put something in a plastic box, close it and it will get covered in fungi. Unless your enviroment is somehow sterile.
Fungi are very hardy. Their hypha is fregile.
You can breed fungi in AACT if they have a substract to grow on, and if your using bubbles big enough not to cut through the hyphas (not using an air stone, just placing the line on the bottom).
If you please I'll link you to some more scientific sources. You can also google it up, fungal AACT is what recomended for trees and quite a few people use it.
How much of those and if they really make a difference I don't know if proven already.
They do increase the biological activity in the soil drasticly over a period of 2-3 days. Proven as well.
There's fungi everywhere.
The spores get everywhere, unless its sterile. Just put something in a plastic box, close it and it will get covered in fungi. Unless your enviroment is somehow sterile.
Fungi are very hardy. Their hypha is fregile.
You can breed fungi in AACT if they have a substract to grow on, and if your using bubbles big enough not to cut through the hyphas (not using an air stone, just placing the line on the bottom).
If you please I'll link you to some more scientific sources. You can also google it up, fungal AACT is what recomended for trees and quite a few people use it.