When should I stop feeding?

FLO-GRO

Member
Hey all - 1st grow in a looooong time. I have 3 healthy females - 2 pineapple pomegranate/1 lemon pineapple that just ended the 8th week of flowering. I've read a lot about switching to plain water around 2 weeks from harvest. Is there something I should watch for instead?
Depends on your style of growing.... meaning what your using as far as medium and nutes/food.

I for example grow all organically 100%. My soil and micro-nutrients are all organic. I grow indoors with full spectrum LED's. I use organic compost teas, well water (only adjusting PH to keep my soil PH buffered to 6.2 ~ 6.5), organic dry amendments and ofcoarse some Mykos/ Azos from extreme gardening. My ladies will get fed (top dress with dry amendments) for the last time in the middle of their flower cycle, typically week 4 or wk5. This is usually when I will see signs they're hungry (not to confuse with some early senescence). This will vary from strain to strain and dependent on how heavy they feed, you will get to be in tune with this as you develop your style. As long as you have a good handle on your soil PH and no nute lock out its easy to tell when they're hungry. When differentiating the two always begin at the soil PH to catch any lockout issues before thinking they incorrectly need food and risking toxicity/ salts build up. All the magic thats happening above the soil is critically dependent on whats actually happening below the soil. I have several different test methods I use for redundancy when testing the soil I use (Roots Organics Original).
My style dosnt require a Flush (two weeks of water prior to a chop), BUT.... I do incorporate more plain PH watering into the regimen in order to induce a natural senescence in the end of the life cycle (like autumn/ fall), I also at this time (week 5 or 6) will drop the temps to mid to high 60's F to further simulate the season and boost tricome production, this also enhances terpene profile and is incredibly prominent with a god slow dry technique. For me, I slow dry for a period usually 10 to 14 days at 68 F and around 45 to 54 RH. I adjust RH depending on how many days they have been on the rack. I start at the high RH around 54 and will work it down to 45 RH closer to days 7 ~ 10, then jar it up with some 62% RH bovida packs from amazon... smoothest, stickiest, tastiest stuff ive EVER had (had to grow it myself to get it how i like it, lol). And with my style my product has NEVER required a cure after my slow-dry organic flowers. Curing does enhance it as time goes yes, but is AWESOME right off the drying rack as well!!

Looks like you got some nice frost going there! Your doing something right, remember... dont fix it if it aint broke! lol..
 
That is very informative and educational! I'm growing indoors in organic soil on LEDs, but using a commercial fertilizer to feed daily. I think I will go ahead and move them to fresh water, and will definitely use your suggestion to cool the room down at night. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Depends on your style of growing.... meaning what your using as far as medium and nutes/food.

I for example grow all organically 100%. My soil and micro-nutrients are all organic. I grow indoors with full spectrum LED's. I use organic compost teas, well water (only adjusting PH to keep my soil PH buffered to 6.2 ~ 6.5), organic dry amendments and ofcoarse some Mykos/ Azos from extreme gardening. My ladies will get fed (top dress with dry amendments) for the last time in the middle of their flower cycle, typically week 4 or wk5. This is usually when I will see signs they're hungry (not to confuse with some early senescence). This will vary from strain to strain and dependent on how heavy they feed, you will get to be in tune with this as you develop your style. As long as you have a good handle on your soil PH and no nute lock out its easy to tell when they're hungry. When differentiating the two always begin at the soil PH to catch any lockout issues before thinking they incorrectly need food and risking toxicity/ salts build up. All the magic thats happening above the soil is critically dependent on whats actually happening below the soil. I have several different test methods I use for redundancy when testing the soil I use (Roots Organics Original).
My style dosnt require a Flush (two weeks of water prior to a chop), BUT.... I do incorporate more plain PH watering into the regimen in order to induce a natural senescence in the end of the life cycle (like autumn/ fall), I also at this time (week 5 or 6) will drop the temps to mid to high 60's F to further simulate the season and boost tricome production, this also enhances terpene profile and is incredibly prominent with a god slow dry technique. For me, I slow dry for a period usually 10 to 14 days at 68 F and around 45 to 54 RH. I adjust RH depending on how many days they have been on the rack. I start at the high RH around 54 and will work it down to 45 RH closer to days 7 ~ 10, then jar it up with some 62% RH bovida packs from amazon... smoothest, stickiest, tastiest stuff ive EVER had (had to grow it myself to get it how i like it, lol). And with my style my product has NEVER required a cure after my slow-dry organic flowers. Curing does enhance it as time goes yes, but is AWESOME right off the drying rack as well!!

Looks like you got some nice frost going there! Your doing something right, remember... dont fix it if it aint broke! lol..
 

JoeBlow5823

Well-Known Member
You likely overfed. They are fox tailing you got heat under control? Basically looks like it was ready then started foxing.
 
Are you saying the foxtailing is from overfeeding, or just an observation? The plants are overall very healthy, but I did notice the fan leaf tips are starting to brown. I used Bergman's powdered notes, using their recommended schedule for soil. Temp kept around 75°. Could the foxtailing be genetic? Only the lemon pineapple is doing it. I've read that is sometimes a thing in sativa dom hybrids.
 
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