Which Would You use a Tube or Hood?

MrGhettoGrower

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
I've decided to go big this grow so I finally graduated up to 1000 watter! I was using one 400 watter in veg and two 400 watters in flower. I found this B-Line Mini slightly used for $120 with a 6" air cooled master blaster for $40 and I already had a 6" cool tube. The cool tube has a smaller reflector so the light will hits higher up the walls is this what I want so I can hang the light closer to the plant? Or would you go with the bigger hood?31VwJzM1+RL._AC_SY239_.jpg 31e3dUls-GL._SX355_.jpg41nC3ob3FAL._AC_SY153_.jpg
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I use cheap batwings but have them ducted at the top to remove the heat and it works well. If you have heat issues you may be stuck using cool tubes are sealed hoods. I have a 2x3 ducted hood but it weighs about 30 lbs lol.
 
MrGhettoGrower

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
chemphlegm said:
doing it again I'd have used bare bulbs, or just a cheap wing.
Click to expand...
Budley Doright said:
I use cheap batwings but have them ducted at the top to remove the heat and it works well. If you have heat issues you may be stuck using cool tubes are sealed hoods. I have a 2x3 ducted hood but it weighs about 30 lbs lol.
Click to expand...
chemphlegm said:
doing it again I'd have used bare bulbs, or just a cheap wing.
Click to expand...
Yes I definitely have to use a cooled hood a cheap wing wasn't an option:eyesmoke:
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
I dont vent anything in my sealed rooms, I noticed hoods with glass reduce par light, vented ones lose more every day if used with carbon filter, venting outside caused me condensation issues and when hot outside didnt do anything for me, so I sealed it for the best exp I could dream of. bare bulbs would have suited me fine
 
Last edited:
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
MrGhettoGrower said:
I'm trying the cool tube first!
Click to expand...
Then why for the love of Mike, did you bother to ask?

BTW, you choose wrong. Unless that "tube" is actually glass. It's going to yellow and then begin to darken to a tan and then brown. This reduces light by stopping some and changing the spectrum on the rest....

Hood is by far a better light reflector.
 
MrGhettoGrower

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Then why for the love of Mike, did you bother to ask?

BTW, you choose wrong. Unless that "tube" is actually glass. It's going to yellow and then begin to darken to a tan and then brown. This reduces light by stopping some and changing the spectrum on the rest....

Hood is by far a better light reflector.
Click to expand...
While I was doing this I figure out all by myself in my own mind what the difference is and why the reflector is a much better choice and that is because the cool tube's reflector is in a perfect circle which reflects the light downward and concentrating it into the center of the tent where the reflector will be a much more even light :eyesmoke:
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
MrGhettoGrower said:
While I was doing this I figure out all by myself in my own mind what the difference is and why the reflector is a much better choice and that is because the cool tube's reflector is in a perfect circle which reflects the light downward and concentrating it into the center of the tent where the reflector will be a much more even light :eyesmoke:
Click to expand...
Square hood for a square tent brother!

Look into The block buster hoods....

https://www.sunlightsupply.com/shop/product/blockbuster-8-in-air-cooled-reflector-generation-3
 
Stealthstyle

Stealthstyle

Well-Known Member
i would remove the reflector off the tube and do a vertical personally, either vert sog or vertical scrog dpending if you up for 72-80 clones in a sog vert.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I meant this:
Burn orientation can effectively influence these color variation qualities. Mercury and High- Pressure Sodium lamps may be operated in any burn positionand will still maintain their rated performance specifications. Metal Halide and Low-Pressure Sodium lamps, however, are optimized for performance in specific burn positions, or may be restricted to certain burn positions for safety reasons. They are:
U = Universal burning position HBU = Horizontal -15° to Base Up HBD = Horizontal +15° to Base Down HOR = Horizontal ±15° H45 = Horizontal to ±45° only VBU = Vertical Base Up ±15° VBD = Vertical Base Down ±15° If no special burn position is noted, the burn position is universal.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top