White Slime In Rez 2nd Week Flower

Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
jronnn said:
oh i thought you meant the UVC bulb. but damn only 1.5"??? would my 2 airstones be sufficient enough for the pushing of water? lol id hate to put something else in my res thats going to heat it up. I'm at 68.4 so i don't really have room for much heat, although, i guess i wouldn't have to worry about shit growing in my water if i have the uvc bulb and h2o2 in my res lol
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The aquarium ones I've seen are quite small but yup they would probably add heat, not sure if they even work TBH. And no, pretty sure you need to push the water past the length of the tube. Also maybe try bennies (I use hydroguard but sure they're are cheaper ones) instead of running sterile.
 
J

jronnn

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
The aquarium ones I've seen are quite small but yup they would probably add heat, not sure if they even work TBH. And no, pretty sure you need to push the water past the length of the tube. Also maybe try bennies (I use hydroguard but sure they're are cheaper ones) instead of running sterile.
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damn, alright dude thanks for the help
 
two2brains

two2brains

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
I understand u have a closed loop just wondering if it gets green? Probably the temps stop that from happening I would guess. My setup is a bit different in that I use seperate heat exchangers for each Res and run a glycol loop outdoors in the winter. Gonna have to come up with a closed loop for the res's though. Probably just build a chiller dedicated to the system or buy a used one. I'm a refrigeration mechanic so should have done the chiller thing a while back lol. I can't believe the difference a chilled Res makes for plant health, and growth.
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No havent seen any mold or slime or anything on the tubes. Heres some pics of the worts




And here is a couple of pics from a system test run of 1 plant at 6 weeks from seed with a very nice stalk and tap root and nice roots. The chilled rez is a HUGE part of hydro i think for strong healthy plants.

 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
two2brains said:
No havent seen any mold or slime or anything on the tubes. Heres some pics of the worts




And here is a couple of pics from a system test run of 1 plant at 6 weeks from seed with a very nice stalk and tap root and nice roots. The chilled rez is a HUGE part of hydro i think for strong healthy plants.

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Looks great and yup after three years of running without chilled res's and getting a nasty root rot thing I switched. The plants are amazing, never realized what I had been missing re growth potential. I've had to raised my nutes by 1/3 and their drinking twice as much. Even though the roots looked healthy before I don't think they were at their peak ever.
 
C. Duke

C. Duke

Member
two2brains said:
All you need is a 75L de humidifier from lowes for 200 and change. A few diy mods and you'll have a chiller that will cool everthing you put chilling worts in. Its such a HUGE difference if you have a chilled rez all the time
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Good deal! I like re purposed stuff!
 
C. Duke

C. Duke

Member
churchhaze said:
The 500ppm from your tap has nothing to do with what you run your nutes at. You shouldn't run a higher ppm just because your tap water is high ppm. The stuff in your tap water is nutrients and contributes to the total.
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Yeah, I know. The mark for nutes if the tap had no ppm is 1000. So I can go as high as 1500 with my 500 tap. My meter does not differentiate between tap ppm & nutes ppm.
 
C. Duke

C. Duke

Member
I'm wondering if the snot isn't actually helping the plants a little. Between h2o2 doses [3-4 days], the ph drifts up a little.
With 5.8 being optimal, and looking at the nutrient absorb-ability ph chart, some nutes are barley available at 5.8 on either side of the spectrum. My logic is that by setting it lower, say 5.6-5.7, and then letting it drift up [thanks to the slime] to 5.9-6.0 before adding ph down again, the plants should theoretically be getting more than just trace elements of the nutrients that are barely absorbable with a constant ph of 5.8.
 
C. Duke

C. Duke

Member
And I think by working with the ph up drift, any chance of a ph related nutrient lockout can be totally avoided. Win win.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
C. Duke said:
I'm wondering if the snot isn't actually helping the plants a little. Between h2o2 doses [3-4 days], the ph drifts up a little.
With 5.8 being optimal, and looking at the nutrient absorb-ability ph chart, some nutes are barley available at 5.8 on either side of the spectrum. My logic is that by setting it lower, say 5.6-5.7, and then letting it drift up [thanks to the slime] to 5.9-6.0 before adding ph down again, the plants should theoretically be getting more than just trace elements of the nutrients that are barely absorbable with a constant ph of 5.8.
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Ummm don't think the snot is helping, my PH drifts down as the water gets used up and pretty sure it's due to higher concentration of nutrients. Once set it moves very slowly but from that I know it's time to refill. PH swing is a good thing but yours is swinging for the wrong reason I think.
 
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