'Wick' humidifier in hydro, anyone ever done it?

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Isisyogi

Active Member
Even with a humidifier, in the arid AZ climate, I cannot keep the daytime humidity level above 37%. I've tried a tons of methods, nothing is working. I'm just about to leave for 5 days and need to get this under control now.

I am thinking that since I have a fan running, why not set up a fan blowing in front of a wick that is using the rez water? Fan becomes a multi-tasker, no need to constantly wet a towel and hang over the fan.

Not sure how to make certain the wick stays bacteria and fungus free, but that's my task for today.

If anyone has any suggestions in the creation of such, please let me know.

Also, I won't be able to have the humidifier running during most of my vacay since I won't be able to refill its rez. I'm thinking of putting it on a timer that only has it coming on during the lights out period, which is when the humidity reaches 47%. I considered doing it during the day, but the rez won't last for the entire time I am gone if I run it during the day. I have a shot at having higher humidity if I turn it on low for 5 hours before lights on, with a wick system hopefully helping during the day.

If anyone can think of various methods to keep humidity going in my absence, let me know.
 
MoonRaver

MoonRaver

Active Member
Sounds like you need a swamp cooler. Helps with cooling and humidity. Remember to add some peroxide in the SC'c reservoir to kill any molds that may grow in there.
 
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Isisyogi

Active Member
MoonRaver said:
Sounds like you need a swamp cooler. Helps with cooling and humidity. Remember to add some peroxide in the SC'c reservoir to kill any molds that may grow in there.
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I'm in a cabinet. I can't put a swamp cooler in there. Haven't seen any tiny ones, they are all almost as big as my grow area. But thanks.
 
urgod

urgod

Well-Known Member
if you live in AZ i'd get a evaporative cooler. kills two birds with 1 stone. if not i'd put a few fans blowing at a bucket of water.
 
M

madmad

Active Member
I reckon you should give the wick idea a go, thats what the evaporative coolers really are: a wick+fan. I just bought one, smallest I could find its about 1ft x 1ft x 1ft cube. Not very efficient cooler but sure blasts the humidity into high 60s.
 
asaph

asaph

Well-Known Member
really, why is humidity so important? it's true that high RH is good when growing, but really, i've grown plants in 15%, no problems at all. There are such more important issues, like fungus and bacteria.
 
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Isisyogi

Active Member
asaph said:
really, why is humidity so important? it's true that high RH is good when growing, but really, i've grown plants in 15%, no problems at all. There are such more important issues, like fungus and bacteria.
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I've been told it's important. My plants feel like they need moisture. Have some issues going on, which are noted, with pics, in my journal if you feel like looking, it's my sig. Too tired to write & repeat.
 
asaph

asaph

Well-Known Member
humidity has nothing to do with your problems, forget about it. listen to people with 5 bars of rep and not 1.

"I don't think 40-47% humidity if making your plants show def signs. I don't like what your feeding your plants. A jump from from 280 to 490 is fine. I go from clone (200ppm) to veg (800ppm) several times a year. No problems. I would keep it simple on your nutrients I don't like the gimmick brands. And did you say all your doing is foliar feeding? I assume thats a typo."
(some super repped guy in your post)

believe me, i've grown beautiful plants in 15%. I agree with what the guy says.

Flush your plant. If in DWC, give it a few hours in just water maybe some epsom in it. Then start feeding at say 350-500ppm (0.7 conversion), with just your basic nutrients. The slowly start adding the other nutes and additives, one by one. don't put too many products in there, it makes a mess...
 
I

Isisyogi

Active Member
asaph said:
humidity has nothing to do with your problems, forget about it. listen to people with 5 bars of rep and not 1.

"I don't think 40-47% humidity if making your plants show def signs. I don't like what your feeding your plants. A jump from from 280 to 490 is fine. I go from clone (200ppm) to veg (800ppm) several times a year. No problems. I would keep it simple on your nutrients I don't like the gimmick brands. And did you say all your doing is foliar feeding? I assume thats a typo."
(some super repped guy in your post)

believe me, i've grown beautiful plants in 15%. I agree with what the guy says.

Flush your plant. If in DWC, give it a few hours in just water maybe some epsom in it. Then start feeding at say 350-500ppm (0.7 conversion), with just your basic nutrients. The slowly start adding the other nutes and additives, one by one. don't put too many products in there, it makes a mess...
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Thanks. When you say basic nutes, is there a specific brand? First grow, so I kinda thought that the Technaflora Veg nutes were basic in their formula.
 
asaph

asaph

Well-Known Member
yes, basic means any nutrient that has both NPK and micro elements, either for veg (more N) or for flower (more PK) depending on your stage.
i should admit that this last advice is based on a hunch more than anything else - but still I think it's worth a shot if your problems are not improving. Flushing is always good. You need to give your plants something stable and balanced to work with. how are you doing ph wise?
 
I

Isisyogi

Active Member
asaph said:
yes, basic means any nutrient that has both NPK and micro elements, either for veg (more N) or for flower (more PK) depending on your stage.
i should admit that this last advice is based on a hunch more than anything else - but still I think it's worth a shot if your problems are not improving. Flushing is always good. You need to give your plants something stable and balanced to work with. how are you doing ph wise?
Click to expand...

My ph has been good and steady since I got my CWP Tri meter about 2 weeks ago. Love that thing. I just calibrated it, just to be certain it was accurate. My ph stays between 5.3-6.3, usually right around 5.6. For the first 3 weeks, I thought it was at 6ish, but now believe it was about a 7. This is when my brown slime (gone now) then yellow spots appeared. I had to add Aquashield, sensizyme & rapid start due to slime. The other nutes are just the basic technaflora veg state nutes mixed at less than 1/8th strength for a week or so, then up to 1/4th strength, now to about 1/3 strength. Haven't deterred from their standard formula. I think it's a nitrogen deficiency. Can't believe such weak nutes would cause nute burn.

This morning, my humidity is at 48%, lights have only been on for about 30 mins, so I expect that to drop by 9am. AZ is just about to switch seasons, so my heat and water temps should lower nicely in the next few weeks. For now, my humidity is above 45% for only 6 hours during lights out. Daytime is about 30%.

I think I'll wait to flush until right before I leave on vacay, Sunday. Take care of it Saturday so that while I'm gone they are not sitting in anything harmful. 5 days of RO alone, what's your opinion on that? While I'm gone, I'll have no way of refilling the humidifier, so humidity will be at 20% for a majority of the time.
 
asaph

asaph

Well-Known Member
Isisyogi said:
My ph has been good and steady since I got my CWP Tri meter about 2 weeks ago. Love that thing. I just calibrated it, just to be certain it was accurate. My ph stays between 5.3-6.3, usually right around 5.6. For the first 3 weeks, I thought it was at 6ish, but now believe it was about a 7. This is when my brown slime (gone now) then yellow spots appeared. I had to add Aquashield, sensizyme & rapid start due to slime. The other nutes are just the basic technaflora veg state nutes mixed at less than 1/8th strength for a week or so, then up to 1/4th strength, now to about 1/3 strength. Haven't deterred from their standard formula. I think it's a nitrogen deficiency. Can't believe such weak nutes would cause nute burn.

This morning, my humidity is at 48%, lights have only been on for about 30 mins, so I expect that to drop by 9am. AZ is just about to switch seasons, so my heat and water temps should lower nicely in the next few weeks. For now, my humidity is above 45% for only 6 hours during lights out. Daytime is about 30%.

I think I'll wait to flush until right before I leave on vacay, Sunday. Take care of it Saturday so that while I'm gone they are not sitting in anything harmful. 5 days of RO alone, what's your opinion on that? While I'm gone, I'll have no way of refilling the humidifier, so humidity will be at 20% for a majority of the time.
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i'm not sure, but 5 days on RO sounds counter-productive in the good case. I'd do it now to resolve the problem before you go away, you still have time. What is the status of problems now? How is new growth doing? Did you resolve the initial problems you had? Was there a time when new growth was looking good and old foliage not deteriorating?

This is to isolate your problem. Remember, nutes are not only measured by strength but also by balance - npk ratios and abundance of micro elements. too much of one element in relation to the others, despite an overall low mass of minerals (low ppm) can lead to lockout. That's why I'm saying you should first get your act straight with basic nutes then add others. Just to have less things to think about - while trying to solve the problem. How are the roots looking? what's your res temp now? I really don't think humidity should be a major concern. it just means the plants drink more water.
 
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Isisyogi

Active Member
Just cleaned the rez and filled with 15 gallons of RO (15 ppm).
Ph 5.2
h2o 74'

So how long should I wait to add NPK?

Roots look good. Leaves not so much. But it takes 2+/- days for whatever you did to effect the plants, right? I'll post pics tomorrow.

Thank you.
 
asaph

asaph

Well-Known Member
i don't think it takes so long, esp in hydro... I really don't know about that, but I would think 12 hours or 24 should be enough.
 
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