Wiring a mini split???

vkambull

Active Member
Get ready to install my first mini split, and the instructions seem to way over complicate the issue. Do I just run 220 to the outdoor unit, and 4 wire 14 gauge to the indoor unit?
 

kinddiesel

Well-Known Member
if its 220. then yes it will take 3 wires out side 2 hot black and white. hot..... then the ground green earth ground. if your over 20000 btu I would use 12 gage wire, for the inside I thought the wires would interconnect inside unit to the out side unit ? how mine was . I would hit the internet pull up install info from them web site. sory I could not help out more. things are trying to be a bitch. if all else fails call the company, they will be glad to help.
 

vkambull

Active Member
It's 24000 btu, I was gonna go with 10-2 to outside, and 16-3 to the inside from outside. Do I need a disconnect to the outdoor unit, or is that just to pass code?
 

computergroove

Active Member
I have a 24k and a 30k btu minisplit and I used 10-3 on both. There shouldn't be an electrical wire needing to go inside. Only on the outside unit
 

vkambull

Active Member
Doesn't the outside unit power the inside unit with electrical wire?? not trying to sound like a smart ass.
 

computergroove

Active Member
The unit should come with a small wire that controls the power of the low voltage fan in the unit and a water drainage tube. You will also have to get a pair of copper tubes fro the refrigerant. Sometimes the units come with them included. The power cable going inside isn't a heavy gauge and should come with the unit (4 wire 14 gauge).
 
Do I need a disconnect to the outdoor unit, or is that just to pass code?
Yes you need a disconnect. It is for safety, AND to pass code.

The disco should be near the condenser. The idea is anyone servicing the unit can keep an eye on the disconnecting means, so no one can inadvertently re-energize the circuit and "light up" whoever is working on the equipment. Plus during troubleshooting it is a great spot to confirm power is at least getting to the disco which would eliminate the question of an "open" upstream in the circuit.

And depending on the installation, you usually need a J-box anyway to transition from romex or a conduit run to a flexible whip that connects to the condenser unit. So it might as well be a disconnect.

Right from the Lowe's website:

disconnect.JPG
 
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