wiring for cob light with switch and fuse.

burnpile

Well-Known Member
Does this look right? I think it is but don't trust myself.
 

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  • cmx 22 light 001.JPG
    cmx 22 light 001.JPG
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I think that the ac power is going into the the driver, right? the other plug shown is for connecting another fixture. So the way I have it is 120v into the driver, the driver outputs to the switch and fuse. I think the daisy/plug should be in a different spot though.
 
What parts you got on the output side of the driver? Personally I would fuse and switch the AC side of the driver not the DC output side. They make switched fused and filtered ac plug ins might be a better option.
 
What parts you got on the output side of the driver? Personally I would fuse and switch the AC side of the driver not the DC output side. They make switched fused and filtered ac plug ins might be a better option.

Now there would be the fuse connector, the switch, the 4 cmx22 cobs. I'll redraw with the fuse and switch on the other side. What is this? "switched fused and filtered ac plug ins", I'll google it, thks.
 
I love it when someone post a good idea... I have been cutting and soldering shit together to achieve this, you mean I can just plug a computer power cord in! sweet. Seems like i should have found that before. thks.
 
What is it that you're trying to protect? I see no reason to fuse the output-ensure your wiring is secure and use the correct gauge of wiring. Circuit breaker in distribution panel protects house wiring so input side is already fused.
 
I think that the ac power is going into the the driver, right? the other plug shown is for connecting another fixture.
I freaked out when I saw a 120VAC connector on the DC side. A 120VAC plug should NEVER be used on low voltage dc wiring. Your drawing shows black and white wires connecting the driver to cobs, the DC output wires from the driver are black and RED.
 
Here is a switched fused and filtered one. If you have a lot of motors running in your house or do a lot of welding or maybe have a neighbor that does the filter cuts out a lot noise in the supplied power. Noisy power will cut down the life of electronics. Another option is to add a capacitor bank to electrical panel to clean up noise. You can find these cheaper from other suppliers.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...MI486b7cK82AIVDBCBCh0zUQBLEAQYBSABEgIEs_D_BwE
 
I freaked out when I saw a 120VAC connector on the DC side. A 120VAC plug should NEVER be used on low voltage dc wiring. Your drawing shows black and white wires connecting the driver to cobs, the DC output wires from the driver are black and RED.

I see the one driver output should be labeled red not white.
 
IMG_0338.JPG For the daisy chain feature, split the AC at the input/switch with a piggyback spade connector and connect one side to your second input plug. That plug will always have power. With the other AC line you'll have, jump to the switch, then connect the driver to the other side of the switch. I chose a combo input/switch without the fuse. There is no switch, plug, or fuse on the DC side, just the LED load.
 
View attachment 4067506 For the daisy chain feature, split the AC at the input/switch with a piggyback spade connector and connect one side to your second input plug. That plug will always have power. With the other AC line you'll have, jump to the switch, then connect the driver to the other side of the switch. I chose a combo input/switch without the fuse. There is no switch, plug, or fuse on the DC side, just the LED load.

Thats a better way to do it.
 
I have previously made 4ea 2 board qb120 fixtures that the driver plugs directly in the wall, is there a device I can plug them into that would have a fuse?. Something like a power strip for 1 plug or 2 withs a 4 / 6 amp fuse. make any sense?
 
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