yellow/brown leaves,curling inwards

spiffster

Active Member
hey guys,

Have my baby's about 2 weeks now and the last few days they have been curling upwards with brown and yellow spots, i water when the the top soil is dry. The hum is 50-55 temp usally 75-80. yesterday i got super thrive added a pin drop to a litre of tap water, I dont know what to do can anyone help me at all please???
 

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Londoner

Well-Known Member
Whats the wattage of that light? 250?

Do you have any extraction in the tent?

What soil are they in?

Looks like light burn/heat stress with a bit of N deficiency.
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
Your oscillating fan is very close too, this will cause wind burn and make your leaves dry out.
 

spiffster

Active Member
I'm using a 250 wat, i aranged the fan now and brought lights up a bit more, have to buy ph tester tomorrow to test the soil, i'm shittin a brick first grow and all!!!! thanks for getting back. The soil i'm using is plagrow, its a grow mix with perlite, got it in the grow shop.
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
Do you mean plagron soil? Which one, is it their bat mix?

Dont bother with the PH, your wasting your time and money.

Plagron soil/compost is made from ingredients that buffer the ph for you, faffing around with ph in organic compost youl only do more harm than good, destroying the micro herd thats so important when growing organically.

Iv been growing organically in similar composts for nearly 7 years and never touched anything to do with PH, its not necessary, and my tap water PH is often 8+

Id pot up into a bigger pot of fresh compo, as they look a bit hungry, and a one off water with 1drop of superthrive p/4l to help with any heat stress.

If youve upped the light a little, and repositioned the fan your halfway there i think.

Extraction??

My current plants, 4wks of 12/12 ZERO PH adjustment or checking.
 

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spiffster

Active Member
I dont have an extraction fan i open the doors each night and i have the vents opened on the tent. I'll plant them in bigger pots tomorrow. thanks for the hlp dude hopefully this works for me and might i say thats some nice green going on. What plant are they?
 

panta

Well-Known Member
i have asimilar problem whit my lr/ak47 brown drying of the leaves on the edges and some yellowing,dont have a camera but its very similar to his condition im using a 6.5 ph soil my plants are 13 days old 4 days ago i transplanted them in 3 gallon pots under a 430 hps they been under cfls,this shit started after 4 days and i thought its gona stop but it seems its spreading 2 days ago i watered whit a 1/4 strengh 8-4-4 fert. i dont have a ph tester but i dont have the solution to set it,its the tipe of tester whit a screw in the back.what can i do i dont think its the soil i had 6 diferent strain grown in that soil whit no problems and they were to young to have a nute def. and the lits are 70cm avay so its not burnt especialy uder cfl were it first started
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
Without pics mate and knowing your soil i dont know.

But a 3gallon pot is FAR too big for a 13day old plant, you want to start small and pot up in stages each time you see roots at the pots drainage holes or the plant starts to look hungry, this build a much better rootball.

If you put a small plant in a huge pot the roots will just go straight down and to the sides and become rootbound without making use of all of the pots huge volume.

Sounds like youve over fed too, plants that young dont need feeding (soil type depending, pre-fert/fertless??) i dont feed in veg at all using pre-fert organic compo and the pot up method.

The pot up method into a bigger pot of fresh soil in stages feeds your plant right through veg, and builds a far more efficient rootball, then once in flower, after the final pot up has been done, i then start my feeding.
 

panta

Well-Known Member
tomorow im gona get a camera an take pics,i transplanted them so soon couse i thought that the soil might be the problem,if its a ph problem which i am almost sure it is how to treat it,i did water them whit destiled water can that cause problems
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
Growing In Soil
Data Sheet Page 1/3
Shop/Technical line:
Order Freephone:
Growing in compost mixes
Growing plants in compost mixes under high output lights, has become a very popular way of growing,
especially with the wide range of good organic products available. It’s simple, effective and although you
may not quite reach the same yields as you would with a hydroponic system, the the quality is excellent.
Traditionally, to get a good usable compost mix you would mix a little soil (or earth) in with layers of manure
or home made compost (from rotting vegetable/organic matter). This home made mix should be left for a
while before using to let the bacteria and micro-organisms have time to turn the manure or compost into
usable feed for the plants. This takes time, so the longer you leave your home made mix (up to a few
weeks is best) the more fertile it will be and the less feed you will need to add. Alternatively you can just
buy a bag of Bio-Bizz All-Mix, a specifically blended organic compost.
Structure of the mix is all important too, so in a good compost mix Perlite is added to improve drainage and
oxygen content. This is very important in the demanding indoor environment where our pot mix must be
able to deliver enough feed, moisture and oxygen without becoming too wet or compressed. We
recommend that you use approximately 30% Perlite and 20% worm castings or Coir/Fibre flakes in home
made mixes to help with drainage, oxygenation and structure. Most good ‘Ready to Use’ mixes should
already contain similar ingredients and percentages.
You shouldn’t worry too much about your water pH and we don’t recommend pH adjustment of water for
soil/compost plants. The nutrient availability pH range is much wider in an organic environment than in
hydroponics and the introduction of acidic pH adjusting liquids is neither necessary or desirable.

With 3 or 4 month cycle fruit and flowering crops, just rooted or cuttings should be grown up a few inches in
a small 13cm (4”) pot to build a nice root ball before transplanting the plant into a bigger pot which they will
stay in until harvest.
When transplanting your plants into their final pot:
- Slightly moisten your compost mix as this will reduce the chance of any root rot to roots
damaged in transplant.
- Fill your new pot with somewhere between a quarter to one third full of your compost mix.
- Ease the plant gently out of its existing small pot.
- Gently place the plant in the new pot and carefully fill in around the plant. Do NOT pack the
compost down. Do NOT water the plant for at least 24 hours to prevent any rot to roots
damaged in transplant.
In larger pots, try not to make the root zone too deep and add an extra 10% Perlite. This will help maintain
an unrestricted, well oxygenated, well drained root environment.
© 2003
 
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