Yellow, Brown, White, Dying plants PLZ HELP

Hey everyone, I am seeking a great deal with the plants Im trying to grow.

I have attatched photos of the grow box and necessities, and pictures of the plant,

Potting mix - General Purpose
Super Grow liquid concentrate(guano), Ideal for hydoponic use.
Super Bloom liquid concentrate (guano), ideal for hydoponic use.

1 x LAMP_ES100/6400K GROWLUSH ENERGY SAVER LAMP 6400k
1 x LAMP_ES100/2700K GROWLUSH ENERGY SAVER LAMP 2700k

2 rectangle planter boxes, with multiple plants in each.

Watered eevry 2 - 3 days, and up until last week i would use the solution every second water and sometimes everytime watered.

I have first started all the plants off in one box as seeds, this was approx a month and 2 weeks ago maybe 3, The grow wicked, fast, healthy perfect, was soo stoked, now AS YOU CAN SEE IN PICS, they are drying up becoming yellow, brown and curling up at the end of leaves, yet the top of the plant its complelty healthy apart from maybe a little dry.

There are also photos attatched of my grow box, - There are two 8inch fans, one sucking other extracting. Timer for 18hour light 6 off. ? Not sure of temperature will get themometer today, but it is average room temp with the heat of light, its not that noticably different.

If anyone can give me tips on this grow and my box and plants pleae let me know, i can see they are close to dying and i really need to fix this. Thanks for the time.. Cheers

Also, I transferred them from the old soil to new soil in two different growboxes and added the same potting mix, it was just fresher, could this have caused this?

Nicnoob said:

Hey everyone, I am seeking a great deal with the plants Im trying to grow.

I have attatched photos of the grow box and necessities, and pictures of the plant,

Potting mix - General Purpose
Super Grow liquid concentrate(guano), Ideal for hydoponic use.
Super Bloom liquid concentrate (guano), ideal for hydoponic use.

1 x LAMP_ES100/6400K GROWLUSH ENERGY SAVER LAMP 6400k
1 x LAMP_ES100/2700K GROWLUSH ENERGY SAVER LAMP 2700k

2 rectangle planter boxes, with multiple plants in each.

Watered eevry 2 - 3 days, and up until last week i would use the solution every second water and sometimes everytime watered.

I have first started all the plants off in one box as seeds, this was approx a month and 2 weeks ago maybe 3, The grow wicked, fast, healthy perfect, was soo stoked, now AS YOU CAN SEE IN PICS, they are drying up becoming yellow, brown and curling up at the end of leaves, yet the top of the plant its complelty healthy apart from maybe a little dry.

There are also photos attatched of my grow box, - There are two 8inch fans, one sucking other extracting. Timer for 18hour light 6 off. ? Not sure of temperature will get themometer today, but it is average room temp with the heat of light, its not that noticably different.

If anyone can give me tips on this grow and my box and plants pleae let me know, i can see they are close to dying and i really need to fix this. Thanks for the time.. Cheers

Click to expand...

well my first instinct is to say nute burn... my second instinct is to say ph problems.. more than likely its a combination of both..

first how much are you feeding them nute wise?? really with the size they are they shouldnt need any nutes.. you dont need to feed them until you see growth slowing or if it stopped or if you start seeing yellowing, which is usually signs of a nitrogen def... and even then you only need to start out with a 1/4 strength application and build on from there..

secondly what is the ph of the water you use to feed with, the water the with the nutes added in, the run off water when you do water, and the soil?? i know those are a lot of things to ask.. but they are all very important.. they need to all be around 6.5... if not you will experience nute lock out.. this can cause deficiencies.. but can also cause nute burn and more ph problems.. the more salts that end up in the soil the lower the ph.. the more it looks like you have a nute def the more nutes you add... then more salt.. then a lower ph.. and so on..

invest in a ph test kit and at least test the ph of the water and run off.. as i said you should adjust it to between 6 and 6.5... you can use vinegar or lemon juice to lower it if it is too high... you can use baking soda to increase the ph if it is too low.. or you can invest in some ph up and ph down... if you use the home remedies, the amount you will need to use to get the job done will vary...

you are also going to end up with growth issues from them becoming root bound... the larger the amount of root space the stronger the plant will be.. if they have to fight over root space, water, and nutes, they will not end up being all they can be... you may want to consider transplannting them into serperate pots.. of pulling a few smaller ones..

also you may want to consider flushing your soil.. run about 7 to 10 gallons of plain ph'd water through the soil to leech out any of the salts... and then just water the next couple of times with plain water before adding nutes again.. start off with a 1/4 strength application and build from there... you may also want to consider only feeding nutes every other watering.. this will help the plant use all the available nutes in the soil up before you introduce more.. this will help eliminate the problem you have now..

excellent thanks for the info, I have just purchased PH water tester, and PH soil tester and themometer. I have done the tests and gathered;

Temperature - 12-15'C morning,
24-27'C with lights
Time - Light: 6am-12am(18hrs)
Dark: 12am-6am (6hrs)
Soil PH - 6.5 - 7.0
Water PH - 7.4
Run off water PH - 7.0
(dodgy test as mix of soil and water)
Guano 'SuperGrow'
+ water - 7.4

I have flushed the plant box but not thurougly, just a rinse with about 4 liters, fills the bottom as they as in a self watering box, I never filled the box i would just water so soil was wet and not drip and drain. only recently starting filling the box say, 5 days ago, problem started just before.

I also grew them from seeds to 1nch just water, from than till this started i was i feeding it the guano for growth as i mix it in with the water which is;

Guano 'SuperGrow' liquid Concentrate
(100% natural organic garden fertilister, ideal for hydoponic situations)

Thanks for the time to read, please reply with feedback.

Nicnoob said:

excellent thanks for the info, I have just purchased PH water tester, and PH soil tester and themometer. I have done the tests and gathered;

Temperature - 12-15'C morning,
24-27'C with lights
Time - Light: 6am-12am(18hrs)
Dark: 12am-6am (6hrs)
Soil PH - 6.5 - 7.0
Water PH - 7.4
Run off water PH - 7.0
(dodgy test as mix of soil and water)
Guano 'SuperGrow'
+ water - 7.4

I have flushed the plant box but not thurougly, just a rinse with about 4 liters, fills the bottom as they as in a self watering box, I never filled the box i would just water so soil was wet and not drip and drain. only recently starting filling the box say, 5 days ago, problem started just before.

I also grew them from seeds to 1nch just water, from than till this started i was i feeding it the guano for growth as i mix it in with the water which is;

Guano 'SuperGrow' liquid Concentrate
(100% natural organic garden fertilister, ideal for hydoponic situations)

Thanks for the time to read, please reply with feedback.

Click to expand...

you have a combination of a few problems... nothing that is not easily fixed...

then main one to begin with is the ph of everything... ph is the beginning to most issues.... your water both plain and with nutes has a ph that is too high.. first place to begin would be to start lowering that before you feed... try to drop it down to between 6 and 6.5... you can use lemon juice or vinegar if you are trying to do the home method... of you can invest in some ph up and ph down... this works best.. a little goes a LONG way tho.. becareful when using those.. if you use the vinegar or lemon juice the amount will vary, but it is more forgiving as the swing in ph will be more gradual...

your soil ph isnt too bad.. but i have a feeling the flush will still be beneficial.... and here is why. . .

you also have some nute burn issues... this is a common mistake... nutes are one of those things that less is usually more... as in its easier to fix deficiencies than to fix burn.. the first problem is you began feeding them way to early in their life.. if you use good soil it is possible to get through the entire veg period without feeding.. but you generally dont need to start feeding nutes until about the 3rd or 4th week of growth.. maybe a little sooner.. but i suspect you started a little too young and now you are here... the other thing that could contribute is the amount you are feeding.. you have the right idea with every other watering... that has probably been the reason your plants survived... but you also need to gradually ween them onto the nutes... start out slow.. with 1/4 strength applications.. and gradually increase the amount with their needs... you can tell when they will need more because growth will start to slow or stop or start to yellow... it wont yellow, brown, dry out, and die tho...

but you still need to give your girls some recoup time before hitting them with any more nutes.. you flushed which is a good thing.. it will give you a new starting block.. imho i would do this.. water a couple more times with plain water.. make sure you check the ph and get that set... after a couple waterings reintroduce the nutes... follow the 1/4 strength suggestion.. and water feed every other watering.. if you need to increase the amount of nutes between feedings to get them through thats fine.. but make sure you need to before doing so... in a couple weeks your girls will be back to normal and growing.. this whole thing will slow your flowering and everything down.. but that is to expected since they are stressed and need to get their health back.. just be patient... and dont let it stress you out.. everything will be fine!

oh.. last thing... if you can keep the temps at night closer to 20C you will be much better off.. the swing in lowest to highest temps are a little extreme and will just make things more difficult... if you can lower the day temps a few degrees as well that would be good also...

simpsonsampson420 said:

oh.. last thing... if you can keep the temps at night closer to 20C you will be much better off.. the swing in lowest to highest temps are a little extreme and will just make things more difficult... if you can lower the day temps a few degrees as well that would be good also...

Click to expand...

Covered almost everything I would suggest. The potting soil that you are using looks more like a garden soil mix, it has no perlite or anything mixed in to retain more oxygen for the roots. Even on budget I've mixed in styroform particles from the packaging of a tv I bought. Not nuting to early is prolly the best tip to convey here, the plants almost seem to develop a dependency to the early addition of the nutes in thier environment. Then when u changed soil u change thier environment and suddenly they weren't getting what they were used too and the shock is kinda killing them. Ur ph is a little on the high side, I would suggest lowering it into the mid to lower 6's so it isn't so acidic. Lastly use a fertilizer with veg nutes first then when u'd go 2 budding use that bloom stuff. budding nutrients have far less nitrogen then plants need at that early stage of veg life when they need it to grow and develop, the guano is bat crap and it is very concentrated nitrogen but it might not be the right stength for the combination u r trying to use. Try to find a fertilizer that targets your unique medium of grow better, save hydro nutes for hydro growers if ur using soil even miracle grow has better concetrations of what u'd need then what u find in hydro nutes and it has all those nice micronutes too.

Growing that many plants in 2 CLEAR tubs might being cause your roots issues. Light is bad for roots and you might run out of rooom in one tub (transplanting an interlocking root mass is a monster bitch). And as the plants grow they spread out in a beautiful, but large and ever expanding canopy of green. If the plants r to close together they can't breath well cause they suffocate each other cause they're too close, think tomato plants for distancing rules. Another obsticle with plants that close sometimes is mold but thats a whole different issue that u'll have later when they're bigger.

For now I agree, flush then give them regular ph balenced water a few times b4 easing into a nice Soil nute once you start experience new health looking growth and not until. Also limit ur watering to every 4-6 days at least, they look over watered and 2-3 days should only be used on seedlings. hygrometers are cheap and can help you learn when to water if you need a tutor, roots need to let the soil dry out every now and they so they get air (thats y perlite in a 1/3 mix is good).

Sorry for the ramble, I get professorial when I'm high but there is good advise there. I hope it helps and I will let u know when I start my grow journal, Just waiting another month or so so I can do it with a fresh crop. Til then keep me posted and I wish you luck man

sorry bout the clear bit, guess u don't have that problem. I see alot of posts and I didn't see the pics rt in front of me when I was typing but the rest of the advise all still applies;P

Ok thanks soo much guys, i really appriciate this awesome information.

Now, sometime soon when they become healthy, i will purchase separate pots for them to grow in and also soil.
can you give me some advise on what soil, i will go to bunnings so name anything thats not rediculously expensive hah.

I will change the ph in my plain water and start feeding to plants and see what happens from there. I havent been feeding them nutes only the liquid concentrate with water, thats the same right? this is what they look like today.

Also, my testing kit has 7 nuetral, above 7 is alkaline and below 7 is acidicty. why did u say mine was too acidicty when its 7 or higher for most. ??

Temp with lights on is around 22'c just double checked. Soil is still wet today so i will not water since flushed a little bit today, should i give it a proper 20 liter flush or should be good now?

Thats what I meant about the ph man, I was smoking b4 I messaged ealier and simply got them turned around lol

When it comes to bargain soil, I generally try and look for anything that says it has nutrients mixed in. Like it could say, "feeds plants for up to 3 months" or "up to 6 months" alot of the time, thats all the nutes u'll need 4 the veg stage, like the other guy said, don't give the plants nutes until grow slows or haults or the plants show some sign of a defeciency. Like yellowing, spotting, turning brown, looking papery or dried out, wilting and more. See this thread for more information on plant defeciencies: https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/38772-guide-diagnosing-plant-problems.html

When adding your nutes back into start low dose and work up to full. If you use a general soil fertilizer follow the dosage instructions for tomatoes, then cut then in half for the plant living in a container - it doesn't have the drainage outside plants experience - and that will be the full strength for your plants.

Also good note when shopping for cheap soil is to look for soil that says its of commercial grade. If its not of commercial grade it WILL say so somewhere on the bag. Commercial grade soil is going to be sterile, as in free of bacteria that can cause plant problems. This grade of soil is designed for people that want to generate production value results, that also means results you can get time and time again without problems.

If the soil you buy doesn't have perlite or vermiculite mixed in then buy some and mix it in yourself. It is absolutely imparitive that your girls roots can breath properly or they will thin out yellow and die (along withyour plant).

Lastly, a tip on watering. When I water I let the plant tell me when it needs water. When my girls are thirsty thier leaves will tuck in kinda like an umbrella closing. To make sure this is a sign they are ready for water and this isn't a sign of some other problem I then stick my index finger into the soil about 3" and feel for moisture. If it needs water I get a bowl or a tray and water until the water comes out of the bottom evenly (u can use this water to check soil ph) then I let the plant sit for at least a half hour. I then repeat the watering. Doing it this way assure that the soil has an even moisture level throughout. Even moisture levels will allow roots to grow properly and help reduce the risk of getting root bound, which will also hault your growth. This condition is an easy fix by repotting your girl in a larger container.

Hope this helps ya!!!

Also if ur gonna repot do it fast before the root masses become too big and get all tangly. And don't get intimedated, its just a plant and growing is in its nature. I've seen plants bounce back that were worse off, once you get them on the right track new 3 bladed leaves will sprout and progress into full blown new growth and everything will be fine. Probably. Hopefully.

And if you must have several plants in one planter box, give them a square foot of space for horizontal growth even small plants can get to be 18+ inches across with a little grooming very fast. Also give them at least 7-10 inches of soil depth, thrive below ground and you can thrive above it too.

Okay, its 4am here and the pot and the red bull are starting to loose their punch. Bedtime, L8trz

Also if your wanting to keep it cheap I've heard of people using vinigar and baking soda to control ph levels. not sure I remember which one does what. You could test it and find out or just google it. Okay I'm passin out.

vinegar will lower.. baking soda will raise....

flush them out and don't use any nutes yet ,wait a couple weks after u flush then start with the nutes at 1/4 the strength on the package. ph every time u mix your nutes.

that soil looks VERY wet, it needs to almost dry out.................? i dont want to butt in so i'll read the rest of the thread first!

homegrow0420 said:

Thats what I meant about the ph man, I was smoking b4 I messaged ealier and simply got them turned around lol

When it comes to bargain soil, I generally try and look for anything that says it has nutrients mixed in. Like it could say, "feeds plants for up to 3 months" or "up to 6 months" alot of the time, thats all the nutes u'll need 4 the veg stage, like the other guy said, don't give the plants nutes until grow slows or haults or the plants show some sign of a defeciency. Like yellowing, spotting, turning brown, looking papery or dried out, wilting and more. See this thread for more information on plant defeciencies: https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/38772-guide-diagnosing-plant-problems.html

When adding your nutes back into start low dose and work up to full. If you use a general soil fertilizer follow the dosage instructions for tomatoes, then cut then in half for the plant living in a container - it doesn't have the drainage outside plants experience - and that will be the full strength for your plants.

Also good note when shopping for cheap soil is to look for soil that says its of commercial grade. If its not of commercial grade it WILL say so somewhere on the bag. Commercial grade soil is going to be sterile, as in free of bacteria that can cause plant problems. This grade of soil is designed for people that want to generate production value results, that also means results you can get time and time again without problems.

If the soil you buy doesn't have perlite or vermiculite mixed in then buy some and mix it in yourself. It is absolutely imparitive that your girls roots can breath properly or they will thin out yellow and die (along withyour plant).

Lastly, a tip on watering. When I water I let the plant tell me when it needs water. When my girls are thirsty thier leaves will tuck in kinda like an umbrella closing. To make sure this is a sign they are ready for water and this isn't a sign of some other problem I then stick my index finger into the soil about 3" and feel for moisture. If it needs water I get a bowl or a tray and water until the water comes out of the bottom evenly (u can use this water to check soil ph) then I let the plant sit for at least a half hour. I then repeat the watering. Doing it this way assure that the soil has an even moisture level throughout. Even moisture levels will allow roots to grow properly and help reduce the risk of getting root bound, which will also hault your growth. This condition is an easy fix by repotting your girl in a larger container.

Hope this helps ya!!!

Click to expand...

Ok, excellent, i will repot the plants and make sure i find the right soil. thanks for the tips very helpful.

should i wait for them to come back to a healthy state before repotting or anytime?

I will let you guys know in a couple more days how the recoup is going, pics etc.

Nicnoob said:

Ok, excellent, i will repot the plants and make sure i find the right soil. thanks for the tips very helpful.

should i wait for them to come back to a healthy state before repotting or anytime?

I will let you guys know in a couple more days how the recoup is going, pics etc.

Click to expand...

Not a problem. I'm happy to help anyone I can. It's alot more fun once you have it figure out your way.

On the repot, I'd let the soil dry out before doing it. You always wanna be able to water your repot heavily right after transplanting and then give it time and let the leaf umbrella tell you when to water again so your roots can spread into the new soil searching for water. Helps them get a firm grip on thier new foundation. Good luck and keep me posted!!!

ok, one more thing. I have these little flying bugs in my grow box? theres a few of them, they are the tinyest little thing. Could they be doing anything? No idea where they came from? tried to take picture but too small they are little black blurry shades. anyone know? if there is a bug that commonly breeds when u first start, than thats probably it...

any help would be great.

Nicnoob said:

ok, one more thing. I have these little flying bugs in my grow box? theres a few of them, they are the tinyest little thing. Could they be doing anything? No idea where they came from? tried to take picture but too small they are little black blurry shades. anyone know? if there is a bug that commonly breeds when u first start, than thats probably it...

any help would be great.

Click to expand...

I had a similar problem once. I notice that they were actually coming out of the soil. what I did was mist the surface soil with cold water, just enough to get it damp. Then I scooped away the loose damp inch or so of top soil and tossed it. I replaced the top dirt with some fresh potting mix from a different bag. In case the bug larva came from the previous bag itself. The bugs never came back.