Yellow leaves everywhere

psynapse

Member
Greetings!

After reading a bunch of threads, and experimenting with my girl, i give up. I really don't know what to do. The leaves of my lady started to turn yellow, from the bottom of the plant, and this phenomenon is spreading all over her. First i though, okay, as a first-time grower, i overdosed her with the nutrients, so i gave her only PH buffered water for 10 ten days. The effect? Nothing. I said, allright allright, no problem, let see, what other problem can it be. Maybe sodium deficiency, give her a little from it. Effect? Yeah, still nothing. So i continued to give her just water.
And now i'm asking for the help of the experts of this field.

I'm using Bio-Nova Soil Mix A-Quality mixed with small amount of perlite and vermiculite, she is in a 4 liter pot (1,05 gal), the nutrients i'm using is the holy trinity of the General Hydrophonics (Flora, Bloom, Micro) [i only use the half of the recommended amount], the room temperature is between 24-28 C (75-82 F), the daily amount of water i give her is around 0,2-0,5 liter. She is in the 5th week of flowering and she is a Bubble Gum, from Serious Seeds. The water i'm giving her is around 20 C (68 F), and the PH of it is 6.2-6.5. The source of light is a 400W HPS.

At last but not least here are some pictures of my lady:
201212272103.jpg201212272104.jpg201212272102.jpg

Thank you for your help in advance!
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
They're flowering, they're supposed to do that(although, they do look a little more yellow than I'd like, maybe it is the strain?)... =) Nice looking babies by the way....


Now that I am more carefully reading and thinking through your post......

I see the part where you said "i overdosed her with the nutrients, so i gave her only PH buffered water for 10 ten days."


Nope, what you more than likely did, was got paranoid that you were burning the crap out of her, so then you flushed her with straight water, although properly ph balanced water. Rinsing out fast acting nitrogen.

You're already close to the end of your grow, I do not know if it would be beneficial to add nitrogen now or not. It might leave a chemical taste left over when you go to smoke it.

I, personally, me myself and I, would say "Ok, I won't do that again." and let it finish, I would however give it one more nice dose of GH's flowering formula, the formula that says "For Full blooming and ripening"... (if i recall correctly) it is 2 tsp Micro|1 tsp grow|3 tsp Bloom, there should be enough nitrogen in that formula to see you through to finish..... (DO NOT SKIMP and only give it HALF!) It's part of the reason you have yellow leaves. You skimped and went half, then you flushed out all the nutes...

I would then flush at the very end for like 48 hours 3 to 4 times a day... based upon your soil method.

IF you just left everything alone as is..... and rinsed 36 hours before harvest, you'd get some really smoooooooth tasting weed. If I think of more, I will come back and edit here, I hate using up more than 1 box to say 1 thing... hehehhe

IF you just left everything alone as is..... and rinsed 36 hours before harvest, you'd get some really smoooooooth tasting weed.
 

Sir.Ganga

New Member
You need to give them a shot of nitrogen...their starving! If you do not want them to loose leaves then you must continue with nitrogen throughout the flower stage on most strains. With 3-4 weeks left there is plenty of time to flush them out...Again. lol

Good luck
 

psynapse

Member
Thank you for the advices!

I started to water her three times a week from a water with normal nutrient level, two times just simple ph-buffered water, and two times a little sodium boosted water (actually, it's the mixture GH recommends for the first two weeks of flowering). I hope it will solve the problem. (Yeah, the flush, i really don't want to forget it, maybe i should write that down)
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Usually what I do is use the full strength veggie GH formula for the first couple weeks of 12/12 until the plants start definitively showing that they are female.. I will then switch over to the "Transition to Bloom" phase of the GH formula ratio.

and then the from the middle of flowering to the end of flowering I will run the "Full bloom" formula until the last 2 weeks, and then put nothing but PH balanced water in for the flush. You don't want to flush with plain water, you need something for the captions to bind to(according to Jorge Cervantes), I am thinking that the PH adjuster will act as the binder. Jorge suggests using a very minimal amount of the grow formula that's higher in nitrogen.
 

psynapse

Member
I spent countless hours reading articles, forums, blogs, guides etc. before buying the equipment, assemble my room, or even put my first seeds into the wet tissue, but as i see, i still have a lot of things to learn. Thank you!
 

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
Greetings!

After reading a bunch of threads, and experimenting with my girl, i give up. I really don't know what to do. The leaves of my lady started to turn yellow, from the bottom of the plant, and this phenomenon is spreading all over her. First i though, okay, as a first-time grower, i overdosed her with the nutrients, so i gave her only PH buffered water for 10 ten days. The effect? Nothing. I said, allright allright, no problem, let see, what other problem can it be. Maybe sodium deficiency, give her a little from it. Effect? Yeah, still nothing. So i continued to give her just water.
And now i'm asking for the help of the experts of this field.

I'm using Bio-Nova Soil Mix A-Quality mixed with small amount of perlite and vermiculite, she is in a 4 liter pot (1,05 gal), the nutrients i'm using is the holy trinity of the General Hydrophonics (Flora, Bloom, Micro) [i only use the half of the recommended amount], the room temperature is between 24-28 C (75-82 F), the daily amount of water i give her is around 0,2-0,5 liter. She is in the 5th week of flowering and she is a Bubble Gum, from Serious Seeds. The water i'm giving her is around 20 C (68 F), and the PH of it is 6.2-6.5. The source of light is a 400W HPS.

At last but not least here are some pictures of my lady:
View attachment 2456651View attachment 2456649View attachment 2456650

Thank you for your help in advance!
http://www.4hydroponics.com/nutrients/items.asp?ItemNo=floraseries

Which product are you using?. And your containers appear on the smallish side.

Nevermind, you mentioned half strength on all 3...assuming you are only using 1 at a time. That flora product has zero N.
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Hey Sunbiz, right in the same post you reposted and quoted......he says - [i'm using is the holy trinity of the General Hydrophonics (Flora, Bloom, Micro) [i only use the half of the recommended amount], and then he further goes on to say... [the daily amount of water i give her is around 0,2-0,5 liter. She is in the 5th week of flowering and she is a Bubble Gum, from Serious seeds. The water i'm giving her is around 20 C (68 F), and the PH of it is 6.2-6.5.]

SO he is obviously mixing the nutes. in water between 0.2 and a 1/2 liter of water.

:peace:
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I spent countless hours reading articles, forums, blogs, guides etc. before buying the equipment, assemble my room, or even put my first seeds into the wet tissue, but as i see, i still have a lot of things to learn. Thank you!
I don't see any mention of NPK or micro values in your foods, just the same noob jive dropping label names. You started off on the wrong foot. Unlearn everything you've "learned" here, buy Mel Frank's "MJ Insiders Growers Guide" and glean horticulture info from places like this - http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda Chalker-Scott/Horticultural Myths_files/index.html

Speaking of starting off on the wrong foot, what are you doing using a paper towel to germinate a seed? Big mistake, and a perfect example of what's wrong with RIU. It's the blind leading the blind using ill founded, hocus pocus, unconventional techniques.

As you will find out once you do your homework regarding plant nutrition, the main reason why plants start yellowing from the bottom up is a deficiency of N, which is the case in ALL cannabis specific foods, causing many (like yourself) to fail. Get informed, the right way, not the cannabis forums way.

UB
 

jackamofo

Member
It sounds like your underfeeding them. I am going through this now and I just got her stabilized and I did that by upping my dose of nutes more than what the GH feeding chart says to. I guess if I learned anything is listen to what your plants want, not what is "recommended" by the suppler.
 

infdjedi

Well-Known Member

  • Speaking of starting off on the wrong foot, what are you doing using a paper towel to germinate a seed? Big mistake, and a perfect example of what's wrong with RIU. It's the blind leading the blind using ill founded, hocus pocus, unconventional techniques.​


Uncle ben... I've followed your threads/advice for years but I have to say I am disappointed to see you have become so cynical. Just help the guy out.. sheesh. Also, I pop my beans in paper towels and have incredible success :P

As to the original poster.. as others have said you did not provide enough Nitrogen for your plants. I still see a lot of white hairs so there is time. Give them a full dose of your Nitrogen rich nutrients and watch those leaves slowly turn back to green. Then water, then do one last full dose of your bloom nutrients. Then you can flush for 2 weeks or until your hearts content and harvest at 9 weeks or so.
 

Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
It sounds like your underfeeding them. I am going through this now and I just got her stabilized and I did that by upping my dose of nutes more than what the GH feeding chart says to. I guess if I learned anything is listen to what your plants want, not what is "recommended" by the suppler.
Sounds like your figuring things out, good deal. One thing thats always good to have on hand is some Fish emulsion. It contains a nice amount of water soluble Nitrogen and is perfect IMO for situations just like this. It make a nice compliment to any feeding program. Added benefit is fungus gnats dont seem to like soil its been used in. Not saying it will keep them completely away, but will aid in keeping their numbers in check if you do get them.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Uncle ben... I've followed your threads/advice for years but I have to say I am disappointed to see you have become so cynical. Just help the guy out.. sheesh.
I did, including an explanation of why his leaves are yellowing. If he knew the NPK values of his foods and the cause/effect of N regarding leaf retention, this wouldn't have happened, which it does all to often. The fact that you didn't understand my points is not my problem.

And just for the record since you also fall for the same ol lame forum paradigms - flushing before harvest is a myth....so I'll repeat - " Big mistake, and a perfect example of what's wrong with RIU. It's the blind leading the blind using ill founded, hocus pocus, unconventional techniques."

UB
 

beuffer420

Well-Known Member
You'll learn how to rock psynapse! It takes time and you have to acquire an eye for theses things. You've got some good info from the others on this thread use it, spiral outward! This is def a field where you must fail to learn how to succeed. Not that you failed but you get my drift I hope. Feed those ladies some food judging by the pic there is still time to feed her before final preparations are made for harvest.
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Welp, I didn't learn to grow from these forums, I went to the horses mouths so to speak, Ed Rosenthal, Jorge Cervantes and the like...

From the Medical Grower's Bible By Jorge Cervantes itself: flushing removes nutrients from the growing medium. Plants should be flushed a week or so before harvest so that the roots take in clean water and the plant expels fertilizers which can give it a bad taste when smoked. The plants should be flushed with a couple gallons of water 7 to 10 days before harvest and the only other time to flush is if you've added too much fertilizer.

If you want to argue that flushing is indeed a myth, well, you can go argue it with them, as for me, I taste the difference between flushing and not flushing wether imagined or not... regardless, I will continue to flush.

It is one of those topics that can be made as controversial as leaf plucking. The reality is, it's just a different way some folks do things than others, there is nothing right or wrong about it, and there is plenty of enough evidence to support flushing to begin with and then there is others who claim that it reduces yield in the last 2 weeks of growth.

Whatever.........
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Welp, I didn't learn to grow from these forums, I went to the horses mouths so to speak, Ed Rosenthal, Jorge Cervantes and the like...

From the Medical Grower's Bible By Jorge Cervantes itself: flushing removes nutrients from the growing medium. Plants should be flushed a week or so before harvest so that the roots take in clean water and the plant expels fertilizers which can give it a bad taste when smoked. The plants should be flushed with a couple gallons of water 7 to 10 days before harvest and the only other time to flush is if you've added too much fertilizer.

If you want to argue that flushing is indeed a myth, well, you can go argue it with them, as for me, I taste the difference between flushing and not flushing wether imagined or not... regardless, I will continue to flush.

It is one of those topics that can be made as controversial as leaf plucking. The reality is, it's just a different way some folks do things than others, there is nothing right or wrong about it, and there is plenty of enough evidence to support flushing to begin with and then there is others who claim that it reduces yield in the last 2 weeks of growth.

Whatever.........
Jorge and I used to correspond frequently so I consider him a friend and I do (or did) argue with him. A plant is not a radiator, you can not flush out what (salts like potassium phosphate, calcium nitrate, etc.) was immediately broken down into ions within the plant's tissue. Flushing a soil only flushes those salts that have an like charge to soil particles like nitrates.

Heck, he didn't get my Griffin's Spin-Out cause/effect right when he quoted my root tip method in his Bible book, said it causes the root tips to turn up, which it doesn't.

Helluva nice guy, but he doesn't always get it right. Does have the best chapter on indoor lighting I've seen.

UB
 

psynapse

Member
I don't see any mention of NPK or micro values in your foods, just the same noob jive dropping label names.
I thought i mentioned everything, sorry. NPK: FloraBloom (0-5-4), FloraMicro (5-0-1), FloraGro (3-1-7). In the Micro there is Cu (0,01%), Fe (0,12%) Mn (0,05%), Mo (0,004%) and Zn (0,015%).


A plant is not a radiator, you can not flush out what (salts like potassium phosphate, calcium nitrate, etc.) was immediately broken down into ions within the plant's tissue. Flushing a soil only flushes those salts that have an like charge to soil particles like nitrates.
What is your suggestion then with the flushing procedure?
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
OK, I will go with Jorge on this one, sorry, if you flush with a mild nutrient solution as Jorge suggests, the nutrient is able to bind itself to the left over salts, and with repeated flushings it will eliminate them. With the end goal being that you want to flush out the nutrients from the soil itself, so the plant will have NO nutrients to leach out of the soil and will have to use what is left over in the plant. Not to mention the people who over-fertilise and then flush out the excess in an effort to save their plants.

Now does this mean you should go out and buy a 50 dollar bottle of "Plant Flush" HELL NO! Those folks are just trying to take your money so they can put it in their bank account.

According to Jorge, you only need like 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon per 2 gallons.

Plants wouldn't show nutrient deficiencies if this method did NOT work.

According to Jorge(and I've noticed this as well) plants that have not been flushed will leave a darkened ash behind from the left over unused nutrients in the plant material. Plants that are, will leave an almost whitened ash behind, attesting to the purity of the material. Plants that have a higher nitrogen chemical left over will also "crackle"... This I have not noticed so much except if there is a stem attached to the bud. It MIGHT crackle up a little.

That is the theory, anyway.

Anyway, nice to disagree with you Uncle Ben, right or wrong, it's a part of how we all learn stuff.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I thought i mentioned everything, sorry. NPK: FloraBloom (0-5-4), FloraMicro (5-0-1), FloraGro (3-1-7). In the Micro there is Cu (0,01%), Fe (0,12%) Mn (0,05%), Mo (0,004%) and Zn (0,015%).

What is your suggestion then with the flushing procedure?
OK, if you used them in equal parts your K would be more than your N which is too little N. Check out the following concept - http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

You need to maintain your leaves in a healthy, green, productive manner until harvest.

UB
 
Top