Yellow/Light Green Leaves in the midsection

jwoolfall

Member
Can someone give me some input on my current problem?

Iv got several plants that are showing signs of yellowing/turning light green. Its only happening in the middle of the plant.

They have been in flower for 20 days.

These plants are in soil and Im using Tiger Bloom 2-8-4 and Fox Farm Big Bloom .01, .3, .7

Iv been watering with Nutes every other watering and doing about 75% strength.

I water about every 3rd day.

Room temp is in the upper 70"s with about 45% Humidity

These spots started showing up around day 10 of flowering and they seem to have become slightly worse over the last few days.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

Attachments

i mean im a noob but to me it sounds like you should lower the nutes to about 50% to a gallon of water...other than that keep doin it up man...i also heard that watering every three days is ideal good luck
 

HookdOnChronics

Well-Known Member
did you switch to your bloom nutes as soon as you switched the lights over to 12/12? Because your should keep feeding veg nutes for the first week and a half to 2 weeks in flower as the plant makes the change. I think your just a little low on the N factor. Take a leak (pee) in your water before watering next time, only like a double shot glass per 1 gallon of water worth. Urin has a high source of N. This may solve your problem.

You probably think I'm joking here, but I'm not at all. Dead fucking serious, pee in your water before you water next, for the N. It's said to use a ratio of 1 part urin to 10 parts water. So since there are 128 FLOZ in a gallon. You could use up to 10 shots of urin per gallon of water. It's always safe to start low tho. So give it 2-4 shots per gallon of water.
 

jwoolfall

Member
did you switch to your bloom nutes as soon as you switched the lights over to 12/12? Because your should keep feeding veg nutes for the first week and a half to 2 weeks in flower as the plant makes the change. I think your just a little low on the N factor. Take a leak (pee) in your water before watering next time, only like a double shot glass per 1 gallon of water worth. Urin has a high source of N. This may solve your problem.

You probably think I'm joking here, but I'm not at all. Dead fucking serious, pee in your water before you water next, for the N. It's said to use a ratio of 1 part urin to 10 parts water. So since there are 128 FLOZ in a gallon. You could use up to 10 shots of urin per gallon of water. It's always safe to start low tho. So give it 2-4 shots per gallon of water.
I stopped giving them the veg nutes almost as soon as they went in to Flower. Whoops!! Rookie mistake I guess.

I thought the Tiger Bloom had enough Nitrogen but maybe I was wrong.

I'll give your suggestion A try on the next watering... eventhough that seems pretty crazy

thanks for the help
 

smokaholic

Active Member
If you piss in anything you are going to feed your plants you are a dumbass. Just put a teaspoon of some veg nutes in there. With a high N ratio. What the fuck is this other cat talking about.
 

HookdOnChronics

Well-Known Member
If you piss in anything you are going to feed your plants you are a dumbass. Just put a teaspoon of some veg nutes in there. With a high N ratio. What the fuck is this other cat talking about.
Sorry to dissapoint... But it is YOU sir, this is the dumbass! I don't appreciate you coming here calling me a dumbass when it is actually YOU that has not done his research. I mean REALLY? Your gonna hop up in here, knowing nothing obviously, calling me a dumbass? Prepare to get trumped son!

Here, enjoy this, and I hope it makes you feel like a fuckin idiot smokaholic! I found this on another site a while ago and have been doing it. I need to prove nothing to anybody, my product speaks for itself, and I use this technique. Read for yourself. I wasn't trying to start anything here. Just a friendly grower trying to give a helping hand to another friendly grower.

Here's a link to the thread on Grass City
http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-growing/439841-pissing-your-plants.html

And here's how that thread starts:

I found this at hg420 and thought it was pretty informative (props to BuddyNugs) so here it is, also i took out a couple of not-so-important paragraphs to meet the 10,000 character restriction

a link to the original thread can be found at HomeGrown420 - Can I use my urine as a fert. (OG refugee thread)


Can I use My Urine as a Fertilizer?

Sure you can. In fact Sweden has tested a full scale urine ‘recycling’ program. Among their findings they have discovered that urine is a complete fertilizer for farm use, lowers the environmental impact of wastewater, improves recirculation of the 3 main nutrients, and that the hygienic risks are negligible if handled properly. Nature has been making use of urine for centuries before humans had even mastered the art of agriculture. Animal wastes contain nutrients that plants needs, and in return they provide us with nutrients we need. It is a circle that has been broken only in recent years, but before you go using your pots as a urinal you will need to be aware of how to use your urine. DO NOT PEE DIRECTLY ON OR AROUND YOUR PLANTS. You will burn them. The following will detail everything that you need to know to be successful.

Use in Soil
Pure concentrated urine will burn your plants; it must first be diluted with water. Typically a ratio of 1 part urine to 10 parts water is effective. Some have gotten away with a slightly higher ratio on unusually hungry girls. It is recommended that you do not exceed 1:10, even though a nutrient burn with urine is rare, the smell can be unpleasant, and salts will build quickly, at higher concentrations. For younger plants start with a ratio of 1:20-1:30 and work your way up. As always do not fertilize germinating seedlings. Wait until the cotyledons (little round leaves) have fallen off before beginning any fertilizer regiment. Also it is not needed every water, every other or every third is sufficient. Let your plant do the talking, if she is a nice dark green then lay off a little, use a weaker solution and lower frequency, if she is getting on the yellow side then step up the strength a bit. Note: Urine can have a high salt content, depending upon your diet. I recommend that when you water with plain water, you allow some run off (approximately 1/8-1/4 volume of your pot) and toss it, this should rid your soil of excess salts.

Use in Hydro
About 8 ounces (1cup) for every 3 gall or reservoir water has been effective (thanks foto) but you should adjust according to your conditions, plant needs, and smell issues. The nitrogen in urine (ammonia and urea) must first be consumed by bacteria as food. The bacteria then store the nitrogen in the bacterial protoplasm. As the Bacteria die, they liberate the stored nitrogen as nitrate, sort of like a time release capsule, to be taken up by the plants. In soil this is no problem but in hydro setups there may not be enough bacteria culture to breakdown the urea and ammonia. Therefore it will be a good idea to drip your Res water through a porous material that can support a bacteria culture such as lava rocks, ceramic bio filter material, foam, sponge. It is up to you; it does not need to be fancy just able to support beneficial bacteria. This step may not be required if your root mass is large enough or if you have a trickle system through a porous medium like rockwool or coco. To get a good start on your bacteria culture you can get some bio-filter booster liquid from any aquarium shop. This liquid contains "good" bacteria that will help you develop a thriving population use as directed (usually a few drops per gal.)


Nutrient Levels (approximation, will vary according to diet)
Alanine, total ..... 38 mg/day
Arginine, total ..... 32 mg/day
Ascorbic acid ..... 30 mg/day
Allantoin ..... 12 mg/day
Amino acids, total ..... 2.1 g/day
Bicarbonate ..... 140 mg/day
Biotin ..... 35 mg/day
Calcium ..... 23 mg/day
Creatinine ..... 1.4 mg/day
Cystine ..... 120 mg/day
Dopamine ..... 0.40 mg/day
Epinephrine ..... 0.01 mg/day
Folic acid ..... 4 mg/day
Glucose ..... 100 mg/day
Glutamic acid ..... 308 mg/day
Glycine ..... 455 mg/day
Inositol ..... 14 mg/day
Iodine ..... 0.25 mg/day
Iron ..... 0.5 mg/day
Lysine, total ..... 56 mg/day
Magnesium ..... 100 mg/day
Manganese ..... 0.5 mg/day
Methionine, total ..... 10 mg/day
Nitrogen, total ..... 15 g/day
Ornithine ..... 10 mg/day
Pantothenic acid ..... 3 mg/day
Phenylalanine ..... 21 mg/day
Phosphorus, organic ..... 9 mg/day
Potassium ..... 2.5 mg/day
Proteins, total ..... 5 mg/day
Riboflavin ..... 0.9 mg/day
Tryptophan, total ..... 28 mg/day
Tyrosine, total ..... 50 mg/day
Urea ..... 24.5 mg/day
Vitamin B6 ..... 100 mg/day
Vitamin B12 ..... 0.03 mg/day
Zinc ..... 1.4 mg/day

approx 2 liters is excreted /day.

Human urine is a great source of auxin, in fact one of the most potent auxins can be found in human urine; indol-3-acetic acid or IAA. Among many things auxin is known to stimulate flower growth, promote ethylene production, and stimulate root growth.

I have gone though an entire grow using urine without any deficiencies, but many feel that during flowering your phosphorus levels are too low. If you desire, a bloom fertilizer may be used in tandem during the flowering phase.
A tea made with the Russian comphry plant (3.6-1-10.6) is an excellent organic bloom fertilizer for those of us who do not wish to use chemicals at any step. Also a tea of bone meal, or bone meal in your soil mix is probably the best way to add Phosphorus.

In addition I would, and have, cut back on the amout of urine used in the flower period (both frequency and consentration). There is some evidence that Nitrogen in excess will inhibit flower growth, and increase your 12/12 time.

Your body can only absorb about 10-15% of a multivitamin/mineral pill the rest is flushed out with your urine. Taking a multivitamin/mineral about 3 hours before your urine collection can give you many vital micro nutrients.

A balanced and healthy diet means balanced and healthy urine. Keep fit and eat well and you should have nutrient rich urine and happy plants.

PH
The PH value for human urine can range anywhere from 5 and 8.5 but most often is found between 5.5 and 7.5 in healthy individuals with a balanced diet. A value of 6 is average. High protein diets can lower PH (more acidic) and Vegetarian diets raise PH values (more alkaline). Urinary infection will increase PH value. Test your PH and lower it (coffee, lemon juice, or vinegar are great organic PH downs) if any higher that 6, especially if in a hydro system, or increase your protein consumption. If the soil you are using is fairly acidic, like peat moss you will want to make sure you are not dropping it too low with acidic urine; dolomite lime can help you buffer this up, or increase your vegetable intake and lower your protein.

Pro's

It Works
Tried and true. In my (and a few others) opinion it works as good as commercial fertilizers when used properly. A side by side clone to clone test has not yet been done (to my knowledge), but there is no question that urine produces healthy, frosty, dank nugs, as good as anything out there.

Cheap
You can't beat free can you? Not likely. Weather you are growing for pleasure or profit saving money is something that I think we all desire. If you have no problem with spending the money, then go right ahead. Call it ghetto if you want, I call it natures gift, and I intend to make the best of it.

Available
It’s like fertilizer on tap. No hasty visits to the hydro/garden shop. No “I’ll have to do without for a while”. It’s always there when you need it.

Environmentally friendly
Many of us would like to preserve the earth. Well organic fertilizers are the way to go if this is part of your ethos. Chemical fertilizers are produced from petroleum products, natural gas, and coal. Minerals are made more soluble with acids. After the compounds are used by the plant the contaminants left over in the soil can become poisonous and over time can leave the land depleted and ‘dead’. Using organic fertilizers closes a cycle of life that has existed for millennia. We feed the plants and they feed us, much like the oxygen and carbon dioxide cycle.

Compost
Urine in your compost pile is probably the best way to get extra Nitrogen into your mix.

Con's

Salt content
Human urine will contain various salts. Depending on diet your urine can contain up a max of 2.2% salt, this is because the human kidney cannot concentrate salts to greater than 2.2%. On average salt content will be about 30g/L Total dissolved solids constitute about 5% of urine volume. As previously stated it will be to your benefit to allow some run off when watering and toss it, this will rid your soil of excess salts.

Infections and parasites
Hygienic risks are negligible, unless the urine comes in contact with pathogens after leaving the body. The urine of a healthy person is sterile in the bladder. If you have a urinary tract, or kidney infection your urine will contain bacteria that can infect others. It is quite impossible for the infection to be passed through the plant, bud or smoke. If you are sick the majority of pathogens that can transmit disease will die within 24 hours of leaving the body. Infections will increase both your salt content and PH values, and can contain bacteria that consume nitrates.

Imprecise
Urine fertilizing is not an exact science. Exact nutrient levels and concentrations cannot be accurately established without the proper equipment. Notwithstanding some trial and error is necessary in every fertilizer regiment. Certain strains can have differing tolerances, different growing conditions and methods vary in their ability to deliver nutrients reliably.

^^^And that's the end of that post^^^
I have more sources if you'd like to see them. Or just go to google and type in Human Urin as Fertalizer and read one of those thousands of post's

try a lil bit more nitrogen in your regimine.
^^You said it yourself^^^ That is basically all I suggested

!BURN!
 

Jonus

Well-Known Member
Do you mind putting up a pic of the whole plant. Often seeing it in its entirety can help determine what is causing this. Also can you explain all the different things you do to the plant on top of the feed/water regime. For instance, do you foliar spray as well...
 

jwoolfall

Member
Thanks for all the info Hookd. Much appreciated

Do you mind putting up a pic of the whole plant. Often seeing it in its entirety can help determine what is causing this. Also can you explain all the different things you do to the plant on top of the feed/water regime. For instance, do you foliar spray as well...
here are a few photos. not sure if they will help much. As you can see in the second one there is another leaf turning light green. Its not a huge problem (prob a few leaves on each plant) but I rather be proactive about it then wait until the problem is wide spread.

I dont not foliage spray the plants at all. Other then watering/feeding I pretty much leave them alone.
 

Attachments

Jonus

Well-Known Member
It is good to see the leaves within the context of the full plant in determining whether this is just a rogue shade leaf that has reacted to some earlier shock or whether there has been a root problem which will be affecting a larger area of the plant. As long as you are watering deeply then allowing them to dry right out then they will be ok. Allowing a pot to dry to the point that you get a little sagging of the leaves is very beneficial to plants root systems. It keeps their roots lively and wanting moisture, but also allows lots of oxygen to be affixed to roots along with vitamins and nutrients. Irregular changes to the growing environment and soggy roots are often your worst enemy, grower panic sits above them all as the worst of all, and it looks like you have the right attitude, you have time on your hands to watch and make good decisions.

I do the whole alternating feeding with my plants and I find that works real well. It's still intensive growing techniques but you are allowing the plant to grow rather than trying to force feed them to grow bigger buds. Around week 4 you usually see the increase in metabolism where plants switch into high gear for that week 5 to week 7 final growth spurt. Best thing to do is to prepare the soil area for that period of growth by feeding them a more balanced regiment rather than the high P and K regimes yet. Once their metabolism changes then you can start on the ones you are feeding them now.
 
Sorry to dissapoint... But it is YOU sir, this is the dumbass! I don't appreciate you coming here calling me a dumbass when it is actually YOU that has not done his research. I mean REALLY? Your gonna hop up in here, knowing nothing obviously, calling me a dumbass? Prepare to get trumped son!

Here, enjoy this, and I hope it makes you feel like a fuckin idiot smokaholic! I found this on another site a while ago and have been doing it. I need to prove nothing to anybody, my product speaks for itself, and I use this technique. Read for yourself. I wasn't trying to start anything here. Just a friendly grower trying to give a helping hand to another friendly grower.

Here's a link to the thread on Grass City
http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-growing/439841-pissing-your-plants.html

And here's how that thread starts:

I found this at hg420 and thought it was pretty informative (props to BuddyNugs) so here it is, also i took out a couple of not-so-important paragraphs to meet the 10,000 character restriction

a link to the original thread can be found at HomeGrown420 - Can I use my urine as a fert. (OG refugee thread)


Can I use My Urine as a Fertilizer?

Sure you can. In fact Sweden has tested a full scale urine ‘recycling’ program. Among their findings they have discovered that urine is a complete fertilizer for farm use, lowers the environmental impact of wastewater, improves recirculation of the 3 main nutrients, and that the hygienic risks are negligible if handled properly. Nature has been making use of urine for centuries before humans had even mastered the art of agriculture. Animal wastes contain nutrients that plants needs, and in return they provide us with nutrients we need. It is a circle that has been broken only in recent years, but before you go using your pots as a urinal you will need to be aware of how to use your urine. DO NOT PEE DIRECTLY ON OR AROUND YOUR PLANTS. You will burn them. The following will detail everything that you need to know to be successful.

Use in Soil
Pure concentrated urine will burn your plants; it must first be diluted with water. Typically a ratio of 1 part urine to 10 parts water is effective. Some have gotten away with a slightly higher ratio on unusually hungry girls. It is recommended that you do not exceed 1:10, even though a nutrient burn with urine is rare, the smell can be unpleasant, and salts will build quickly, at higher concentrations. For younger plants start with a ratio of 1:20-1:30 and work your way up. As always do not fertilize germinating seedlings. Wait until the cotyledons (little round leaves) have fallen off before beginning any fertilizer regiment. Also it is not needed every water, every other or every third is sufficient. Let your plant do the talking, if she is a nice dark green then lay off a little, use a weaker solution and lower frequency, if she is getting on the yellow side then step up the strength a bit. Note: Urine can have a high salt content, depending upon your diet. I recommend that when you water with plain water, you allow some run off (approximately 1/8-1/4 volume of your pot) and toss it, this should rid your soil of excess salts.

Use in Hydro
About 8 ounces (1cup) for every 3 gall or reservoir water has been effective (thanks foto) but you should adjust according to your conditions, plant needs, and smell issues. The nitrogen in urine (ammonia and urea) must first be consumed by bacteria as food. The bacteria then store the nitrogen in the bacterial protoplasm. As the Bacteria die, they liberate the stored nitrogen as nitrate, sort of like a time release capsule, to be taken up by the plants. In soil this is no problem but in hydro setups there may not be enough bacteria culture to breakdown the urea and ammonia. Therefore it will be a good idea to drip your Res water through a porous material that can support a bacteria culture such as lava rocks, ceramic bio filter material, foam, sponge. It is up to you; it does not need to be fancy just able to support beneficial bacteria. This step may not be required if your root mass is large enough or if you have a trickle system through a porous medium like rockwool or coco. To get a good start on your bacteria culture you can get some bio-filter booster liquid from any aquarium shop. This liquid contains "good" bacteria that will help you develop a thriving population use as directed (usually a few drops per gal.)


Nutrient Levels (approximation, will vary according to diet)
Alanine, total ..... 38 mg/day
Arginine, total ..... 32 mg/day
Ascorbic acid ..... 30 mg/day
Allantoin ..... 12 mg/day
Amino acids, total ..... 2.1 g/day
Bicarbonate ..... 140 mg/day
Biotin ..... 35 mg/day
Calcium ..... 23 mg/day
Creatinine ..... 1.4 mg/day
Cystine ..... 120 mg/day
Dopamine ..... 0.40 mg/day
Epinephrine ..... 0.01 mg/day
Folic acid ..... 4 mg/day
Glucose ..... 100 mg/day
Glutamic acid ..... 308 mg/day
Glycine ..... 455 mg/day
Inositol ..... 14 mg/day
Iodine ..... 0.25 mg/day
Iron ..... 0.5 mg/day
Lysine, total ..... 56 mg/day
Magnesium ..... 100 mg/day
Manganese ..... 0.5 mg/day
Methionine, total ..... 10 mg/day
Nitrogen, total ..... 15 g/day
Ornithine ..... 10 mg/day
Pantothenic acid ..... 3 mg/day
Phenylalanine ..... 21 mg/day
Phosphorus, organic ..... 9 mg/day
Potassium ..... 2.5 mg/day
Proteins, total ..... 5 mg/day
Riboflavin ..... 0.9 mg/day
Tryptophan, total ..... 28 mg/day
Tyrosine, total ..... 50 mg/day
Urea ..... 24.5 mg/day
Vitamin B6 ..... 100 mg/day
Vitamin B12 ..... 0.03 mg/day
Zinc ..... 1.4 mg/day

approx 2 liters is excreted /day.

Human urine is a great source of auxin, in fact one of the most potent auxins can be found in human urine; indol-3-acetic acid or IAA. Among many things auxin is known to stimulate flower growth, promote ethylene production, and stimulate root growth.

I have gone though an entire grow using urine without any deficiencies, but many feel that during flowering your phosphorus levels are too low. If you desire, a bloom fertilizer may be used in tandem during the flowering phase.
A tea made with the Russian comphry plant (3.6-1-10.6) is an excellent organic bloom fertilizer for those of us who do not wish to use chemicals at any step. Also a tea of bone meal, or bone meal in your soil mix is probably the best way to add Phosphorus.

In addition I would, and have, cut back on the amout of urine used in the flower period (both frequency and consentration). There is some evidence that Nitrogen in excess will inhibit flower growth, and increase your 12/12 time.

Your body can only absorb about 10-15% of a multivitamin/mineral pill the rest is flushed out with your urine. Taking a multivitamin/mineral about 3 hours before your urine collection can give you many vital micro nutrients.

A balanced and healthy diet means balanced and healthy urine. Keep fit and eat well and you should have nutrient rich urine and happy plants.

PH
The PH value for human urine can range anywhere from 5 and 8.5 but most often is found between 5.5 and 7.5 in healthy individuals with a balanced diet. A value of 6 is average. High protein diets can lower PH (more acidic) and Vegetarian diets raise PH values (more alkaline). Urinary infection will increase PH value. Test your PH and lower it (coffee, lemon juice, or vinegar are great organic PH downs) if any higher that 6, especially if in a hydro system, or increase your protein consumption. If the soil you are using is fairly acidic, like peat moss you will want to make sure you are not dropping it too low with acidic urine; dolomite lime can help you buffer this up, or increase your vegetable intake and lower your protein.

Pro's

It Works
Tried and true. In my (and a few others) opinion it works as good as commercial fertilizers when used properly. A side by side clone to clone test has not yet been done (to my knowledge), but there is no question that urine produces healthy, frosty, dank nugs, as good as anything out there.

Cheap
You can't beat free can you? Not likely. Weather you are growing for pleasure or profit saving money is something that I think we all desire. If you have no problem with spending the money, then go right ahead. Call it ghetto if you want, I call it natures gift, and I intend to make the best of it.

Available
It’s like fertilizer on tap. No hasty visits to the hydro/garden shop. No “I’ll have to do without for a while”. It’s always there when you need it.

Environmentally friendly
Many of us would like to preserve the earth. Well organic fertilizers are the way to go if this is part of your ethos. Chemical fertilizers are produced from petroleum products, natural gas, and coal. Minerals are made more soluble with acids. After the compounds are used by the plant the contaminants left over in the soil can become poisonous and over time can leave the land depleted and ‘dead’. Using organic fertilizers closes a cycle of life that has existed for millennia. We feed the plants and they feed us, much like the oxygen and carbon dioxide cycle.

Compost
Urine in your compost pile is probably the best way to get extra Nitrogen into your mix.

Con's

Salt content
Human urine will contain various salts. Depending on diet your urine can contain up a max of 2.2% salt, this is because the human kidney cannot concentrate salts to greater than 2.2%. On average salt content will be about 30g/L Total dissolved solids constitute about 5% of urine volume. As previously stated it will be to your benefit to allow some run off when watering and toss it, this will rid your soil of excess salts.

Infections and parasites
Hygienic risks are negligible, unless the urine comes in contact with pathogens after leaving the body. The urine of a healthy person is sterile in the bladder. If you have a urinary tract, or kidney infection your urine will contain bacteria that can infect others. It is quite impossible for the infection to be passed through the plant, bud or smoke. If you are sick the majority of pathogens that can transmit disease will die within 24 hours of leaving the body. Infections will increase both your salt content and PH values, and can contain bacteria that consume nitrates.

Imprecise
Urine fertilizing is not an exact science. Exact nutrient levels and concentrations cannot be accurately established without the proper equipment. Notwithstanding some trial and error is necessary in every fertilizer regiment. Certain strains can have differing tolerances, different growing conditions and methods vary in their ability to deliver nutrients reliably.

^^^And that's the end of that post^^^
I have more sources if you'd like to see them. Or just go to google and type in Human Urin as Fertalizer and read one of those thousands of post's


^^You said it yourself^^^ That is basically all I suggested

!BURN!

thats all i need to see im pissin in a jug now haha
 

Uk.Cobra

Active Member
Thanks for all the info Hookd. Much appreciated



here are a few photos. not sure if they will help much. As you can see in the second one there is another leaf turning light green. Its not a huge problem (prob a few leaves on each plant) but I rather be proactive about it then wait until the problem is wide spread.

I dont not foliage spray the plants at all. Other then watering/feeding I pretty much leave them alone.


they look fine to me its just a few leafs not the entire plant...


if you got the fox farm trio throw a teaspoon of grow big in there with a teaspoon of tiger bloom and 2 teaspoons of big bloom


i would throw some molasses in there 1 tsp good for the buds and has some nutes in it


thats PER GALLON ive been using that and there doing great


remember do that every other watering and when you don't see problems anymore remove the grow big from the mix and just use big bloom and tiger with molasses EVERY OTHER WATERING
 
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