Yellowing, falling off, WTF is the Issue? What to Do?

I just re-read the thread, and your pH is a bit low (for soil) in my opinion, at 6.3. I like mine at around 6.8, but that shouldn't be locking out N, and thats what that looks like. She's starving for N. You definitely ain't over watering, and your roots do look fine. The root ball is dry enough. I'm at a loss here. Thats not like any nute burn I've ever seen, so it's probably not that. Just get some holes in the pots, start watering again when they get dry and see what happens.
Water them until the soil is soaked (you'll get run-off). The lift the pot and feel the weight. Let it go dry, and lift it, feeling the weight. Thats how you'll tell when to water. Check the pH of the run-off water and get back to us. (Scratching my head)

Jack Harer said:

I just re-read the thread, and your pH is a bit low (for soil) at 6.3. You want it at around 6.8, but that shouldn't be locking out N, and thats what that looks like. She's starving for N. You definitely ain't over watering, and your roots do look fine. The root ball is dry enough. I'm at a loss here. Thats not like any nute burn I've ever seen, so it's probably not that. Just get some holes in the pots, start watering again when they get dry and see what happens.
Water them until the soil is soaked (you'll get run-off). The lift the pot and feel the weight. Let it go dry, and lift it, feeling the weight. Thats how you'll tell when to water. Check the pH of the run-off waterand get back to us. (Scratching my head)

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I agree. Just feed them N i didnt see where he said 6.3 but that is a tad low i was looking at the post were it said 6.6 and jack is correct 6.8 is ideal but with soil that .2 is harder to accomplish then in hydro. Heres what i do whith watering keep in mind i use genral organics. I will mix nutes feed with out ph adjusting, this is all new to me since i am hydro guy turn soil guy for several reasons. But thats what GH says to do. Then i wait 1 day 2 days to water i use R/O water just cause i have the filter and shit. Not needed if your under 300ppm out of the tap. I will ph adjust that to 7.0 then i water 2 times before i feed again.

But i cant express to enough that you need to get some N uptake or she will die or have a super earl harvest. I never did ask what strain and flowertime is. If its a 50 day flower you will get something. I wish you the best of luck and i will keep cheking back.

Do not use RO water unless you have to. Distilled either. If anything, use mineral water. RO strips everything (mineral content) out of the water, and you want that, just not the chlorine. There are ways to remove chlorine. Just bubble that out. Chloramine is a bit more problematic, but not really a problem either. More people who use RO or distilled have cal/mag or other essential mineral issues than not!!!
Use RAIN water if you can, but tap water is fine in most places, unless you live in Miami, NY, or Three Mile Island. I don't even own a ppm or ec meter. Just a good ole reliable Hanna pH meter.

im with jack, this is kind of a head scratcher...you got all the advice to fix whatever it is.... but to recap.. get wholes in the pot, flush it good, then feed it with atleast 1/2 strenght nutes, but that plant might need a full dose by now...and you SHOULD be straight..good luck bro

Hey, i need some help, this is my first time grow. it been growing good untill i noticed that a few of the bottom leaves started to get brown spots on the tips, very small but then as time went on it dried out the leaf and turned it yellow and crackly. The top portion of the plant seems healthy. is this nute burn? or something else. please lemme no so i can do something to fix it asap. Anything helps. Thanks

I have this same problem appearing in my grow. I agree with what everyone is saying about drainage at the bottom being crucial but the real problem is the plants have run out of pot and are rootbound. This problem shows up during mid/late flowering because the heavy growth cant be supported by the root system. I am transplanting.

See this post

zvuv said:

I have this same problem appearing in my grow. I agree with what everyone is saying about drainage at the bottom being crucial but the real problem is the plants have run out of pot and are rootbound. This problem shows up during mid/late flowering because the heavy growth cant be supported by the root system. I am transplanting.

See this post

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this is not due to being rootbound...the roots will still be able to take up nutriens (if nutes are there)and keep the plant healthy, even if they have reached their max growth potential or being "root bound"...you should not repot in flower, as this will make the plant start growing roots AGAIN...as opposed to putting all energy into the flowers...

gkawall said:

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Hey, i need some help, this is my first time grow. it been growing good untill i noticed that a few of the bottom leaves started to get brown spots on the tips, very small but then as time went on it dried out the leaf and turned it yellow and crackly. The top portion of the plant seems healthy. is this nute burn? or something else. please lemme no so i can do something to fix it asap. Anything helps. Thanks

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my $ is your overwatering...let your pots dry out really good b4 next water...this is a classic 1st timer mistake

I just added another 32 oz. These pots have a "spacer/screen " insert on the bottom that allows water in the bottom 1" but not soil. I figured I better start soaking them now, drive some of the salts to the bottom. I'm still getting the Rubbermaid containers for run off.

gkawall said:

View attachment 1756639View attachment 1756640View attachment 1756643View attachment 1756644View attachment 1756645
View attachment 1756647View attachment 1756648View attachment 1756649
Hey, i need some help, this is my first time grow. it been growing good untill i noticed that a few of the bottom leaves started to get brown spots on the tips, very small but then as time went on it dried out the leaf and turned it yellow and crackly. The top portion of the plant seems healthy. is this nute burn? or something else. please lemme no so i can do something to fix it asap. Anything helps. Thanks

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You shouldnt high jack this thread.. Start a new thread i will help ya out. Give info on the grow what soil any nutes ect..

Bublonichronic said:

this is not due to being rootbound...the roots will still be able to take up nutriens (if nutes are there)and keep the plant healthy, even if they have reached their max growth potential or being "root bound"...you should not repot in flower, as this will make the plant start growing roots AGAIN...as opposed to putting all energy into the flowers...

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Under ideal circumstances you don't want to transplant at this stage. But here, its health is at risk. A little distraction with root growing might be better than the alternative. No?

I still think he has a salt build up because he has watered it so little. He never waters it enough because he is afraid to get the carpet wet. So instead of having some of the left over salts flush out the bottom of the pots, he continually has a build up. Which can set the PH of the Medium out of wack! Even if he feeds and waters at 6.3PH inside the medium he could have 5.5-8.0PH. Who knows. I am sure he did not use lime of what ever he needs to buffer his soil. He might have soil that is already far out of range when he bought it. This is why I say he should get some holes in the bottom of the pots and feed or water with like 1.5 gallons at 6.8PH. Then take all of that water that ran out the bottom and give it a little mixxing. Next take a sample. But not from the top. Take it from the middle. This will give you a basic idea of what is happening with the PH within you medium. If you feed that at 6.8PH and the run off is 8.0 you know something is wrong in the medium.

Actually I put some Dolomite Lime in last Monday. I realize it might take some time to work. The soil pH was lower before I did, 5.8 I believe.

I'm NOT afraid to get the carpet wet - it can't get wet because there aren't any holes in the pot. I'm going to get some containers to put under the pots and I'm going pop some holes so it will drain.

I was told elsewhere in this thread that I was probably overwatering them. That doesn't seem the case since I pulled the plant out of the pot and checked, so now I know. I previously was watering when the gauge said dry. I do agree that the lack of runoff has most likely caused a salt issue.

I appreciate the followup about the mixing question. I'll put all the runoff together and get a pH sample from that. Will post results tomorrow.

Okay, the trip to Wal-mart was successful. I use a drill to put some holes in the very bottom sides of the pots. These pots have a screen/spacer that prevents soil in the bottom 1" of the pot, I drilled the holes into this "chamber".

I poured a lot of water until I got a good flow out the bottom. I poured in about 80 oz.

The pH of the water as it went in was 7.6. It came out at about 6.4. Does that imply that the pH in the pot was around 5.2 ?

How to proceed? Do I continue to flush? If so, how often and until when?

When should I continue feeding? (remember this is Scotts Moisture Advantage soil, feed up to 4 months, planted in mid-May).

it may be a 4 month release..but your plant may have used up pretty much everything available... i would have flushed her with 7.0 water ...but just let her dry out and start to feed her again...i would start at 1000 ppm and work my way up

It is hard to tell someone what PPM they should be feeding at unless you know what strain it is and what brand of nutrients. I would start at 1/4 of what you were feeding them. And then slowly raise it until you just start to get a little burn on the tips. Then flush a little and back off 10% of what you fed them. Mark this do-wn in your journal as the max amount of nuts that certain strain will take. Some strains can handle 2,000 PPM while another strain will only take 600 PPM of the same nuts.

ALWAYS keep a journal when trying out a new strain or nutrients. And never feed at a PPM that someone tell you unless they know the strain well and the Brand of nutrients. I always just start at 1/4 of what is suggested and slowly increase it over time until I just start to get a burn, then I back off 10% as I said before.

Strain is a very popular one known as "Bagseed", LOL. This is my first ever grow (can you tell?) and I was looking at this in a purely educational way. Mission accomplished there.

I'm Using Jack's Classic. I have the Dynamic Duo, which has both a 20-20-20 and a 10-30-20. Which one to use now, 20/20/20?

PPM, parts per million, I'm assuming I need to get another measuring meter for that? Can you recommend a good fairly inexpensive one?

How would one adjust the watering pH? ph DOWN or something similar?

I'm hoping that Lord DB was correct in theorizing that the salts have caused the plants to stop taking up water.

Lord Dangly Bits said:

It is hard to tell someone what PPM they should be feeding at unless you know what strain it is and what brand of nutrients. I would start at 1/4 of what you were feeding them. And then slowly raise it until you just start to get a little burn on the tips. Then flush a little and back off 10% of what you fed them. Mark this do-wn in your journal as the max amount of nuts that certain strain will take. Some strains can handle 2,000 PPM while another strain will only take 600 PPM of the same nuts.

ALWAYS keep a journal when trying out a new strain or nutrients. And never feed at a PPM that someone tell you unless they know the strain well and the Brand of nutrients. I always just start at 1/4 of what is suggested and slowly increase it over time until I just start to get a burn, then I back off 10% as I said before.

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this far into flowering..1000 ppm is safe for any strain..i would start there and work my way up

IMO don't waist ur money on a PPM meter...there not that important, I have never used one, ahha