yellowing leaves always 2nd week of flowering!

abesmitty

Active Member
Every time the 2nd week or so of flowering comes around my leaves turn yellow as is all of the stored energy is going from the buds and the leaves never make a recovery after that. should i increase nitrogen or phosporous or something else and keep it at 1300ppm? should i increase my ppm to 1500? is there an extra nutrient that i can add to help prolong this because im not getting the full potential out of my ladies... any advice from experienced growers would help! thanx smoke in peace
 

abesmitty

Active Member
bionicare with superthrive once amonth, molasses, and im in soil. I fluch once every 3 times. I ve got 60 ladies in flowering and there starting to bud well and of course the yellowing is starting.
 

abesmitty

Active Member
its a soiless mix sunshine # 4. I just bought the whole line of fox farm products and i followed the directions today on it and the ppm was 1930! im experimenting with 20 of them.

Igot them under 600w with co2 and great temps, hum, and air ventalation
 

Mcgician

Well-Known Member
Your problem is difficult to pin down. More information is needed to answer your question. I use rockwool and don't see unexpected pH swings. I use Dutch Master nutrients, and as far as flowering nutes, that line has been tops in keeping the leaves green up until the end. I keep my pH between 5.5 and 5.8. IMO, your pH is WAY too high and nutrients are totally locked out. Flush your medium with water, and then feed them with a 2/3 strength nutrient solution in the proper pH range. You should see positive results after that.
 

abesmitty

Active Member
i thought 6.6 was the proper ph level for soil... what should it be then? wow ive been way to high this whole time... i feel like a fucking rookie, 6.0 is the ideal ph and ive always been high... more than one meaning right there. thanks bro
 

Mcgician

Well-Known Member
I thought you said you were in a soiless mix? Sunshine mix to be exact. This is obviously NOT soil if that's the case. If you were in soil, there would be no reason to feed your plants the high amount of nutrient salts you currently are. Soiless mediums used for hydroponics have a desired pH range of 5.5-5.8.
 

MicG

Member
i thought 6.6 was the proper ph level for soil... what should it be then? wow ive been way to high this whole time... i feel like a fucking rookie, 6.0 is the ideal ph and ive always been high... more than one meaning right there. thanks bro
naw bro,don't take one person's word and run with it.5.5-5.8,he's probably doing hydro,6.6 for soil is right where you wanna be
 

Mcgician

Well-Known Member
I would be wary of advice from noobs with only 2 posts that haven't properly read the entire thread myself. Take your chances if you like. Lol.
 

abesmitty

Active Member
faq's got soil @ 6 here and im obviously got some kind of feeding problem or ph prob. and ive been doing 6.6 so wtf... faq's are pretty respectable but just like you micg i thought 6.6 was right on. but im starting to think (because of my possible lockout, the faq's and mcgician) i might be wrong.
 

BongFiend420

Active Member
I like 6.3 or 6.4 when I am using sunshine #4. But you said your soils pH was 7.1, thats a little bit high. Sprinkle a tiny bit of dolomite lime in your soil, that will get it to that sweet 6.3 6.4
 

speeka

Well-Known Member
The optimum ph of the compost for maintaining health and growth is 6.5 to 6.8. It is much harder for the compost to buffer up than to buffer down.
PH below 6.5 will mess up the micro flora and if not very careful ruin your compost. Thats why i never ph in soil, the soil is a good enough buffer if you have to phdown only.
As you are at week 2-3 i would think its a Mg deficiency, a heaped table spoon/10L of Epsom salts should do the trick. The new foliage should be nice a green.
 

jahtrip

Well-Known Member
Man, your leaves shouldn't be turning yellow at the second week of flower even if your ph is at 7.... some fertilizer company's recommend to set the ph of the water at 7 before adding the products...
In horticulture the rule is to always test and modify ph after putting all the ferts and additives in the water.. but there are some exceptions... (biobizz for example) or Bio canna, which modifies the ph of the water by itself.. and therefor no need to modify it yourself..
1st check if your ferts modify ph on their own... cause if they do this could be the reason why your ph is off..
2nd It isnt a bad idea to put a little bit of growth fert during the first 3 weeks of flowering, because the plant is still creating roots, and growing... so it uses up more Nitrogen...

What i find helpfull is to look at a few different company's feeding schedule, and create your own to fit the plants needs...=)

Another thing i can suggest is, to focus on less plants till you get it right...

peace and grow :)

Jah
 
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