Yellowish spots on leaves

johnsmith1010

Active Member
You wouldn't need calmag if the nutrient companies didn't purposely leave it out so they can sell you another bottle of stuff. There is absolutely no reason that coco specific nutrients don't have enough in their base. I grow in coco and have never had the need for calmag because the cheap base nutrients I use contain everything the plant needs. These are not cannabis specific nutrients but formulated for hydro to grow all kinds of plants. Cannabis specific nutrients are just overpriced marketing nonsense. By slapping the word "Big" "Giant" "Power" on the label and targeting cannabis growers they can sell the same fertilizer for 5 times what they could if they just sold it as Plant Food which is what it is.

I also don't understand mixing hydroton with coco. Straight coco or coco/perlite is better. In fact I stopped adding perlite a long time ago and grow in straight coco. Plants thrive in straight coco.

I'd bump the pH up to 6 and keep it there myself. I also wouldn't let it dry out like it is in those pictures. Although unlike many I don't believe excessive amounts of runoff are needed. In fact I use Blumats and there is no runoff. So much of what's out there regarding growing in coco I don't follow and never have any issues. I don't water until runoff because the Blumats keep the coco consistently damp and I don't use calmag because I feed a nutrient that contains all of that. I have very little faith in any cannabis growing website as I don't follow their guidelines and have healthy plants from start to finish while others follow those guidelines and have issues all throughout their grow and end up checking runoff and chasing pH and nutrient issues. It's a damn plant. It doesn't require all this hocus pocus floating around on the internet.
sir , that was absolutely beautiful ( me clapping )that is one of the best answers I have seen. you are so bang on with 4he nutrient. I have made my own since 1989
You wouldn't need calmag if the nutrient companies didn't purposely leave it out so they can sell you another bottle of stuff. There is absolutely no reason that coco specific nutrients don't have enough in their base. I grow in coco and have never had the need for calmag because the cheap base nutrients I use contain everything the plant needs. These are not cannabis specific nutrients but formulated for hydro to grow all kinds of plants. Cannabis specific nutrients are just overpriced marketing nonsense. By slapping the word "Big" "Giant" "Power" on the label and targeting cannabis growers they can sell the same fertilizer for 5 times what they could if they just sold it as Plant Food which is what it is.

I also don't understand mixing hydroton with coco. Straight coco or coco/perlite is better. In fact I stopped adding perlite a long time ago and grow in straight coco. Plants thrive in straight coco.

I'd bump the pH up to 6 and keep it there myself. I also wouldn't let it dry out like it is in those pictures. Although unlike many I don't believe excessive amounts of runoff are needed. In fact I use Blumats and there is no runoff. So much of what's out there regarding growing in coco I don't follow and never have any issues. I don't water until runoff because the Blumats keep the coco consistently damp and I don't use calmag because I feed a nutrient that contains all of that. I have very little faith in any cannabis growing website as I don't follow their guidelines and have healthy plants from start to finish while others follow those guidelines and have issues all throughout their grow and end up checking runoff and chasing pH and nutrient issues. It's a damn plant. It doesn't require all this hocus pocus floating around on the internet.
( me clapping) sir , that is probably the best answer and info I have seen on several different sites.so simple. nutrient is cheap. no rocket science. standard agricultural product. a simple inexpensive 12 mineral minimum product with N P K Ca Mg S Fe Mn B Z Cu Mo
get an ingredient list as is normal on every other plant because weed is just another agricultural crop like any other and is not special...bravo ( me clapping again)
so the only 5hjng I would ad ( if I missed seeing that u already said it) is 5o keep watch on 6our input EC as well as your runoff.
the medium EC should 4un between 25 to 50% more than feed ec
so f3ed ec 800
waste ec is 1000 to do 1200 .
if your ex is more than double input you will most likely experience nutrient lockup and salt burn.
the easy fix is to flush 1/2 ststrength solution though 5h3 medium until waste or runoff is back down around 1000 then continue watering as normal with a 15% over flow each watering to keep medium EC down.
The solution to ANY nutrient disorder , toxicity , or deficiency, the solution is th4 same. flush out old solution with new Solution until EC of waste is 800 to 1200 ec .
i have made my own nutrient since 1989 . I buy in 25kg bags of individual nutrient salts and mix my own formulas. can post them too if wanted. costs me about 7 to 10$ for 20 liter 100: 1 concentrate. ( 20 l a and 20 l b ) the only reason 5here is 2 part formula is to keep the concentrated calcium and phosphorus way from each other so they do not combine 5o form water insoluble calcium phosphate. calcium nitrate is in the A and monopotassium phosphate in the B
no supplements either .
any way my friend good job. I think I will follow you.
truth is when I started reading I though I wrote it until about half way through. read my responses 5lto most issues and they are the same lol
 
sir , that was absolutely beautiful ( me clapping )that is one of the best answers I have seen. you are so bang on with 4he nutrient. I have made my own since 1989

( me clapping) sir , that is probably the best answer and info I have seen on several different sites.so simple. nutrient is cheap. no rocket science. standard agricultural product. a simple inexpensive 12 mineral minimum product with N P K Ca Mg S Fe Mn B Z Cu Mo
get an ingredient list as is normal on every other plant because weed is just another agricultural crop like any other and is not special...bravo ( me clapping again)
so the only 5hjng I would ad ( if I missed seeing that u already said it) is 5o keep watch on 6our input EC as well as your runoff.
the medium EC should 4un between 25 to 50% more than feed ec
so f3ed ec 800
waste ec is 1000 to do 1200 .
if your ex is more than double input you will most likely experience nutrient lockup and salt burn.
the easy fix is to flush 1/2 ststrength solution though 5h3 medium until waste or runoff is back down around 1000 then continue watering as normal with a 15% over flow each watering to keep medium EC down.
The solution to ANY nutrient disorder , toxicity , or deficiency, the solution is th4 same. flush out old solution with new Solution until EC of waste is 800 to 1200 ec .
i have made my own nutrient since 1989 . I buy in 25kg bags of individual nutrient salts and mix my own formulas. can post them too if wanted. costs me about 7 to 10$ for 20 liter 100: 1 concentrate. ( 20 l a and 20 l b ) the only reason 5here is 2 part formula is to keep the concentrated calcium and phosphorus way from each other so they do not combine 5o form water insoluble calcium phosphate. calcium nitrate is in the A and monopotassium phosphate in the B
no supplements either .
any way my friend good job. I think I will follow you.
truth is when I started reading I though I wrote it until about half way through. read my responses 5lto most issues and they are the same lol
This is my first time and I just wanted to get the basics right until I start diving deeper. I would like to see your formulas if you don't mind so I can start looking into it and making my own nutes.
 

johnsmith1010

Active Member
This is a copy of my formulas .they are in grams per liter as well as how to make 20 l concentrate stock solutions .this is a chapter out of a manual I wrote for my guys in 2000
. I have been growing since birth 1989 .
the best advice is :
-use basic 12 minerals N P K Ca Mg S Fe Mn B Z Cu Mo
2 part solution
-pay attention to the feed and waste ec
-get free light meter app that reads in footcandles.
-seedling needs around 1500 fc to start
-veg responds well to around 2500 fc
-bloom is best at average of 3000 fc
( light averages are exactly that, averages. bloom can be 2000 to 4000 but average is around 3000)
-do not use any supplements that are already in your basic formula
- the only ones I found useful are :
SUPERTHRIVE ( b1 and trace but only for veg )
growth plus/sUPERTHRIVE a seaweed based spray. it has a natural hormone called kintetin a cytokinen. stalk and stem growth. used in veg weekly. not for bloom .
spray n grow....its one of the only things I use that I am not 100% sure what it is. it says manganese and zinc ? I think but it is harmless and I personally found it seemed to help with stress. I made weekly sprays with SNG and growth plus. same spray for cuttings .
with NO CO2, SUPPLEMENTS, OR ANY TYPE OF SPECIAL TRAINING OR TRIMMING TECHNIQUE I AVERAGED 2.75 lb per 1000watt light per 25 sq ft . I used movers and there is a little discrepancy because of figuring watts per sq ft ( just to compare) but
35 gram per sq ft.was easily achievable. so 1.25 lb per 4x4 area with a 600 watt hps
get a baseline without anything extra or special so you can actually tell if something actually does anything. ie supplements , special techniques etc.
doing less will NOT make shitty bud .it will be excellent. fucjkng around with unknown things without knowing the basics will.
good luck !
text me any issues if you want
I added some shots from hydroponic food production by dr Howard m resh about the base nutrient and how to know what is in there .
 

Attachments

A little update. So far so good. pH still hasn't changed but I'm not hoping for it anymore. Plants seem to be healthy with perky leaves. Nearing the end of 3rd week of flowering, all plants are developing buds. Yield probably will be nothing special but should be few oz to smoke at least providing everything will be good. I read plants are most picky when flowering so I'm a bit worried about the pH level but we'll see. I tried to even out the canopy so it's not too bad. I've learned a lot from the first grow and will be striving for improving my knowledge and skills with each grow. Next time I'm definitely going for the scrog method with better equipment and knowledge and NO DAMN PEBBLES. I'll post pics of the final result on the day of harvest.
 
OK I'm dumb. Myke, when I was struggling with yellow spots on leaves you helped me out and educated me about my watering schedule and advised on adding CalMag. You told me to give 2 or 1ml/L to fix the plants, I, the dummy I am somehow understood 1ml/100L and that's what I've been giving them since then every single day, it did fix the problem however I just noticed today that I've been giving them nowhere near the amount you told me to. This is interesting though. Does this mean that all the CalMag my plants need is in the nutrients I already give them or could they still benefit from me adjusting the dosage and giving 1ml/L?
 

myke

Well-Known Member
The 1 ml /l is half of what the bottle says. Your food and water will have Ca and Mg. In coco there’s a demand for mg. That’s when you see the yellowing between the veins. So if your not seeing yellow I’d say your good. I can’t remember exactly but the ratio for Ca to Mg is 2:1
So in some cases all people need to add is a little epsom to up the Mg so the ratio is better.
myself I add about .5 ml/l. Your food probably has enough in it. Which is not common. This way they can charge you extra.
 
It came to an end :( Result was 11oz, not great but always something, I learned a lot from my mistakes and will improve a lot with the next one. Thank you Myke for all your help, I wouldn't have done it without you.
 
Top