World Of Hempy

Nizza

Nizza

Well-Known Member
those girls are soil, next run i plan on going hempy so then i will add it into moe's list; good shit i forgot all about that~!
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
Observation and question!

I am in day 19 of 12/12 and have had no issues to this point at all, other than I think I vegged a one to two weeks to long. 3.5 gallon Hempy, 85/15 P/V. Three plants WW mainlined to 14, Ice 1 mainlined to 8 and Ice 2 mainlined to 6. Using Lucas for Hempy formula, MaxiBloom @ 7 gram per gallon. That puts me at around 900 to 1000 ppm, my rain water that I use is 61 ppm.

Looking at the plants under the LED today and saw some discoloration in Ace 1, Ace 2 and WW color is a little off but not bad. Took the plant out of the cabinet to inspect it. Here are a few pictures.

20140306_160524.jpg20140306_160604.jpg20140306_160628.jpg20140306_160701.jpg

Though it is not showing up bad here on her buds I can still see some discoloration.
20140306_160721.jpg

Not showing up as much as under the regular light but yes the some discoloration and a little leaf burn. I had attributed the leaf burn to not misting the nutes off the leaves when I feed, I do get some nutes on the leaves.

I pulled the plug at the base of the bucket to inspect the roots and there was no standing liquid in the bottom of the bucket but the stopper was damp so the system is not dry, they were fed/watered yesterday morning. pH was 5.89 and ppm of the solution was 980.
View attachment 3015214


Well I decided to give the bucket a flush, so I pH'ed a gallon of rain water to 5.92 fill the bucket till the upper Perlite floated. moved the bucket around a bit then opened the base plug. I caught some of the solution and let the rest drain out completely. The pH of the rinse-ate was 5.98 but the ppm was 1296, I have never even come close to feeding that rich.

So I plug it up and refilled with pH'ed water to 5.88, did the same routine and this time the pH was 5.89 and the ppm was 1051. So I flushed and drained again just like before and the pH was 5.89 and ppm was 836.

I am going to leave it like it is and not feed/water till tomorrow as planned, but I may not feed just pH'ed rain water. I know there is enough moisture to carry it for the next 16 hours or so.

So my question is how did the ppm's increase to that point and what can I do to prevent it from happening again?

I believe the problem is caused by nute burn. Just would not expect a nute buildup in Hempy's. And since I am seeing some of the same action on Ace 2, I believe I will flush both WW and Ace 2.

Thanks,

GR
 
WattSaver

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
hey gr, you're probably correct on the lower leaf brown tips. The light green shows there is a slight deficiency of some sort, especially since it shows in new growth. I'd recommend to start with adding some cal-mag, the cal is very important in the uptake of many different nutrients. Since you're using rain water it will have no cal in it, where as most of the USA population tap water comes from an aquifer that has some contact with a limestone substrate. And nute manufactures knows this and won't add enough cal to work well with RO or in your case rainwater. Try adding 2ml/gal if I'm right you'll see results within a couple of days, if I'm wrong cal/mag at this level won't cause any additional harm.

Best on your grow I want to see a 14 headed hempy.
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
Thanks Watt,

I was using Cal/Mag up until a few weeks ago with every feeding. But then I read that using the Lucas formula with MaxiBloom has all the cal/mag you need so I stopped. I will reintroduce this in my feeding.

I do think I have some burn from the high nute content.

I posted this on the Mainline forum to a response from Mo.

"What I don't understand, well maybe I do, is the high ppm at that flush. My thoughts are that as the nute liquid sits in the 3+ inch rez that they nutes settle out and it rest on the bottom of the bucket and not being flushed with each feeding as the consensus says. So when I filled the bucket with pH'ed H20 and gave it a shake it loosened the nutes at the bottom and they came out with the rinse-ate. Or, the shaken solution also broke free any bound up nutes in the full column of the medium."

We will see in a few days. I will be watering tomorrow with no nutes and see how they respond. May add light rate of cal/mag.

Thanks for the info and the refresher course in geology, I was in the golf biz for 35 yrs and know how water works. But is is great to find others who have that knowledge.

GR
 
WattSaver

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
I live along a tributary to the Colorado river. All sources to this river are within 20 miles, our HOA's wells are all shallow wells in the river aquifer, my tap TDS generally runs 450 to 500ppm, and it has no cal.

Maybe some of the powdered MB didn't get fully dissolved. I've always thought that the nute level in the rez would be slightly concentrated, but with my water I wouldn't know how to check. Then again your rez is half again larger than the standard 2", which may give it more time to concentrate. These are wild ass guesses, with no science to back, just food for thought.

Here's some general pot news. On Wednesday (Lent, you would have thought they would have opened on fat Tuesday) the first rec pot shop opened it's doors in Aspen. Now everything in Aspen cost more ($5/gal gas, $20 cheeseburgers, etc) An eighth of Jillybean was going for $105, and the 1st customer was over 60.
 
Indoor Sun King

Indoor Sun King

Well-Known Member
gr865 said:
I was using Cal/Mag up until a few weeks ago with every feeding. But then I read that using the Lucas formula with MaxiBloom has all the cal/mag you need so I stopped. GR
Click to expand...
I can't find the link but the Lucas formula does include Cal-Mag.

In my situation, Cal-Mag is critical as my water is soft, I use about 4 ml per gallon

I have had people advise me to stop using it, I just ignore their suggestions as without it I get major lock-out

I use 7 grams of MaxiBloom per 4 litres, plus 4 ml of Cal-mag and pH+ to ~5.8
 
WattSaver

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Little update here. I got the short straw on this 50/50 Satori seed pop 3 out of 5 are male, I've known it for several days but couldn't accept it. Anyways 2 of them are now folded into a box and heading to the curb. The other is in my office, I'll collect some pollen and do a limited seed run. It also cleaned out the veg, throwing out 6 of 10 clones and you know they were the ones that were throwing on lots of new growth.

Here's the last group shot

Satori_14-03-07 002riu.jpg

Gonna have plenty of room for the 2 girls.
Satori_14-03-07 011riu.jpg

Last shot of the boys
Satori_14-03-07 014riu.jpg
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
Indoor Sun King said:
I can't find the link but the Lucas formula does include Cal-Mag.

In my situation, Cal-Mag is critical as my water is soft, I use about 4 ml per gallon

I have had people advise me to stop using it, I just ignore their suggestions as without it I get major lock-out

I use 7 grams of MaxiBloom per 4 litres, plus 4 ml of Cal-mag and pH+ to ~5.8
Click to expand...
Was this the link you spoke of?
[h=1]Lucas Formula - A Hydroponic, soil, and coco Feeding Regimen[/h]
Please direct all Cannabis related questions to http://askcannabis.com​
Summary:Lucas Formula, sometimes known as the Lucas Ratio, is less complicated than it initially seems. It is nothing more than a basic recipe of nutrients to give your plants during both the vegetative, and the flowering state.
The original recipe uses 2 parts of the General Hydroponics 3-part FLORA series (Gro, Micro, Bloom) nutrient system, but Lucas Formula may also be used with Advanced Nutrients, GH's dry nutes (Maxibloom), etc.
​

[h=2]Lucas Formula using General Hydroponics 3-Part System[/h]General Hydroponics makes a 3-part system named the FLORA series. It consists of FLORA GRO, FLORA MICRO, and FLORA BLOOM. These are 3 bottles you buy, that you would normally use together throughout the entire grow. You may use it as per the instructions on the bottle, with excellent results, but...
Lucas figured out that FLORA MICRO contains enough nitrogen, and everything else that MICRO GRO contains, that you use it with FLORA BLOOM alone, saving you from having to buy FLORA GRO.
How do you use it? Simple. Add 8ml of Flora Micro (dark red stuff) to 1 gallon of water*, mix, and then add 16ml of Flora Bloom (pink stuff) into the water, and mix. Done - unless you're growing in coco. If so, see below.'

[h=2]Lucas Formula using General Hydroponics Dry Nutrients (Maxibloom)[/h]MaxiBloom and MaxiGro are dry nutrient also from General Hydroponics. It turns out, Maxibloom, used in a ratio of 7 grams per gallon of water*, is very close to the original Lucas Formula (above.) You do not need MaxiGro, and so this is the cheapest and easiest recipe to use.
Add 7 grams of Maxibloom into 1 gallon of water*, and then adjust the pH, and stir vigorously to dissolve the Maxibloom in the water. I advise putting the 7g of Maxibloom into a cup of warm water, dissolving it, and then adding it to the remaining gallon of water, before pH adjusting and mixing again.

[h=2]Lucas Formula using General Hydroponics FloraNova series[/h]This is probably the easiest (but not cheapest - see MaxiBloom above) feeding plan available. If you're using General Hydroponics' FloraNova Bloom 1-part system, simply add 8ml of FloraNova per gallon of water* and feed.

[h=2]Lucas Formula when growing in Coco Coir - Head's Formula[/h]If you're growing in coco, you may need to adjust the Lucas formula slightly to compensate for a property of coco which may result in a calcium or magnesium deficiency. How? You may be able to get by simply by adding 1-2ml of calmag (or MagiCal+), or 1 gram of Epsom salt (any pharmacy carries this), per gallon of water, before feeding the plants.
There is a modified formula specifically for Cocothat consists of using a different ratio: 6ml of Flora Micro, and 9ml of Flora Bloom, per gallon of water, along with 1 gram of Epsom salt per water.
Either works, but be sure to try Head's Formula if you're having deficiencies or other nute/pH problems.
If you are confused or unsure, ask your Weed related questions here!

[h=3]Low light ratio, and flowering vs veg[/h]Lucas Formula should be used in the same ratio throughout the grow. There is a misconception that one should use 5ml of Micro and 10ml of Bloom, when in veg, and switch to 8ml of Micro, and 16ml of Bloom, when flowering.
This was never stated by Lucas himself. He originally stated that the 0-5-10 ratio was for LOW LIGHT situations (fluorescent lighting like PL/L and CFLs, or HID lamps less than 400W), whereas 0-8-16 is for medium to high light (400W+)

[h=3]* What type of water should I use? What about pH/ppm?[/h]The original formula uses reverse osmosis, or RO, water, and is intended to be used without having to measure pH and ppm. Reverse Osmosis water makes this possible because it should, in theory, be the same for everyone. It is filtered water, which you can get either by buying a reverse osmosis filter system, or just buying bottled water (among other brands, Dasani, the bottled tap water is reverse osmosis, for example). One may also use dH2O (distilled water) with good results. You can get distilled water from most convenience stores (Walgreens, CSV, Rite-Aide, etc..)

[h=2]Lucas Formula for seedlings/cuttings[/h]For young plants (< 4 weeks old) or cuttings, which may not be able to handle a full strength feeding formula, may require that you dilute the nutrient solution before feeding. This is OK, just make sure you keep the correct ratio when mixing. For example, 50% strength would be 4ml Micro and 8ml Bloom, or 3.5g of dry Maxibloom per gallon.
[h=2]Lucas Formula with tap water[/h]You may use Lucas Formula with tap water successfully, but this may require pH adjusting on your part. Keep the pH close to 5.8.

[h=2]Can I use additives with Lucas Formula?[/h]You may. It is recommended that you do not introduce additives until your setup is dialed in. After you've ironed out any deficiencies and fully understand how your plant and strain likes to be fed, feel free to begin using additives (such as Floralicious) - not that the additives will help. For increased quality and yield, focus on good genetics, and ample light and temperature control, rather than trying to compensate for those with additives.
Cannabis Questions & Answers (QA)
[h=2]Interested in the details? See the following[/h]
 
BigLittlejohn

BigLittlejohn

Well-Known Member
There are a bunch of growers in my state rocking the Lucas formula with the Cutting Edge Solutions product line. They claim it's game changing. Personally, I haven't bought into the idea of not using a base grow product, but CES is one of the few lines I've seen that uses it's bloom base throughout the entire plant life cycle.

I've been given samples of their line that I am running in one of my DWC buckets. Also have been using their finishing product called Sugaree on my White Widow hempy that has 3-4 weeks to go.
 
T

TWS

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the Lucas link. Im new to Hempy and are plagued with purple stems. Seems to be worst under Fluorescents in vegg . Will probably just cut out the grow and use the Lucas style. Growing with organic teas in soil all I ever used was the Bloom recipe.
 
Javadog

Javadog

Well-Known Member
I got my stems to green up, in both my Holy Grail Kush and
my Purple Wreck, by letting them get a lot drier, along with
lightening their feed when I did water them.

Good luck,

JD
 
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smokey the cat

smokey the cat

Well-Known Member
hey thread,

I've been trying to find out a bit more about hempy to see if I wanna give it a go. Tried to read a bunch of pages, so sorry if this has been asked before, lol.


Are organic hempy a thing?

Back when icmag was still thriving there was an epic organic bio-bucket (hempy with airstone kind of thing), which is the closest I've seen. But I'd love to know if anyone has done fully passive hempy organic???


Also,

Does anyone have a guide to preparing and buffering coco? I'll have to get it locally - have seen the no-name bricks of it at garden centres.
 
Ou8aCracker2

Ou8aCracker2

Well-Known Member
What do you mean by "back when ICmag was still thriving" comment?

ICmag still is thriving and tge number 1 message board I recommend to any and everyone!

When it comes to Coco coir my advice straight up is to just by the bagged prehydrated,pre rinsed,pre buffered/charged with Cal/Mg Canna Coco.
 
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