How to Remove Heat?

[m3d1c1n3man]

Well, it is impractical, and there are better ways.

You get what is called an icebox. The idea is to not let the water ice system stall, which it will. The water begin to ballast the temperature pull down, sooner than you think.

The idea is that you circulate chilled water, thru a heat exchange, and fan inside the room, but the water/ice reservoir is outside your room and well insulated.

That is because, the amount of ice needed and the temp/energy curves are just not worth it, if you just allow ice to just melt in water. But with a tiny pump recuiculating the cold water, works fine, lasts a long time.

Around a $100. Then get a little plumping going in a picnic cooler full of ice water,the bigger the better.

http://www.hydrogalaxy.com/growing-lights/lighting-accessories/6-ice-box-heat-exchanger/?gclid=COWB3_vJgb0CFYdFMgodzGQAQg

interesting. nice to know that exists. of course at that point I could just get an air conditioner. I'm probably just going to go with your original advice and just try to exhaust more air.

 

[m3d1c1n3man]

Going by the part of your post I highlighted in bold...you're exhausting back into the same room you're pulling fresh air from aren't you?

That's a no no.Route the exhaust into the attic,another room,or through a window via a window exhaust box that can be built cheaply.

Also,you failed to mention the size,airflow rating,and type of fan (inline centrifugal,squirrel cage blower,duct booster,etc.).

yes... it's going back into the same room. but the room is large and well ventilated and the temperature is monitored and easily controlled so I don't see it as a problem. In other words the exhaust doesn't warm the room any so it wouldn't affect intake temp.

the fan is about 4 inches wide and the duct is 4 inches wide, both intake and outtake. don't know the exact rating of the fan but you can guess about what a 4 inch fan would push. it's just a basic fan, i don't know that technical garble you mentioned about the squirrel but a fan is a fan is a fan, fundamentally speaking.

 

[m3d1c1n3man]

That is until you began the passive aggressive dick swinging based on your made up turd world.

that's gotta be a sig...

 

[Ou8aCracker2]

A fan is a fan is a fan is bullshit.

A booster fan from HD isn't an inline centrifugal from a hydro shop.Booster fans can't handle pressure losses at all inline centrifugals and inline mixed flow fans from hydro shops can.

And I guarantee you that exhausting back into the room the tent pulls fresh air from IS heating that room up.

Also,your fresh air intake (if passive) needs to have twice as much area as the exhuast.If using an active intake (1 fan for exhuast,1 fan for intake) then the intake fan needs to have a lower airflow rating than the exhuast fan.

Shows how much you know.You can either take advice from me,someone with over 15 years of growing under his belt or...you can continue blindly down the path you are taking noobie.

 

[dajosh42069]

Hey no one called for your judgement. No one has to agree here. No one values your toss off solutions to nothing.

And I believe, if you are paying attention in life you simply mind your own business..

You're right, SURELY bitching like a little girl (as you are doing) is far more effective.
I'm sure it's very helpful to see you insult and whine at everyone who's opinion differs from you. You're the WORST kind of grower, the kind who has to get in a pissing contest with anyone who doesn't agree with you.
Seriously kid... grow up.

 

[Red1966]

There is too much heat in the grow room! 90+ F ! How to remove? There is a 400w HID in a room about 4' by 6'. The light is about 2 feet from the plant and yet temps at the bottom of the plant still show 90F. There is an outtake fan a couple feet above the light and a passive intake, otherwise the room is basically sealed, with outside temps around 70F. You can feel the heat coming out of the exhaust. There is also a fan blowing directly on top of the plant and around the HID light. Can't seem to get rid of this heat! What is the usual solution? I know a lot of people use HID's and solve the heat problem so what is the secret? I tried searching the site but does not seem to be working. I thought about putting some ice cubes in there but that seems half-ass. Any help?

Is the light in a vented hood? This helps greatly.

 

[Red1966]

I believe the idea would be to remove the bucket from the room once the water has melted i.e. heat transport out. Technically it's no different than venting air, it's just water exchange instead of air exchange. It would probably take a lot of cold water to work and so be impractical, but the physics is sound.

You would need more ice than a residential freezer could supply. Think about it. You'd be removing as much heat (freezing water) as your lamp puts out. About 2,000 BTU/hour. I doubt a freezer can do 1/10 that. Air cooled hoods are the way to go with HID.

 

[Red1966]

yes... it's going back into the same room. but the room is large and well ventilated and the temperature is monitored and easily controlled so I don't see it as a problem. In other words the exhaust doesn't warm the room any so it wouldn't affect intake temp. the fan is about 4 inches wide and the duct is 4 inches wide, both intake and outtake. don't know the exact rating of the fan but you can guess about what a 4 inch fan would push. it's just a basic fan, i don't know that technical garble you mentioned about the squirrel but a fan is a fan is a fan, fundamentally speaking.

The difference in the amount of air moved by different fan types is at least ten-fold. Inline centrifugal fans work the best for our purposes. Moving air with low or moderate back pressure.

 

[dajosh42069]

If you have an HID with a cooltube design, you can mod a blower fan for pretty cheap and it pulls/pushes a shitload of air.
If you're interested, I can link you to a tutorial.

 

[m3d1c1n3man]

A fan is a fan is a fan is bullshit.

A booster fan from HD isn't an inline centrifugal from a hydro shop.Booster fans can't handle pressure losses at all inline centrifugals and inline mixed flow fans from hydro shops can.

And I guarantee you that exhausting back into the room the tent pulls fresh air from IS heating that room up.

Also,your fresh air intake (if passive) needs to have twice as much area as the exhuast.If using an active intake (1 fan for exhuast,1 fan for intake) then the intake fan needs to have a lower airflow rating than the exhuast fan.

Shows how much you know.You can either take advice from me,someone with over 15 years of growing under his belt or...you can continue blindly down the path you are taking noobie.

tear ' Way to give me advice immediately prior to insulting me, quite classy. Thanks for your help, but I actually got the problem solved using the same mysterious fan from before.

 

[m3d1c1n3man]

Is the light in a vented hood? This helps greatly.

no unfortunately/fortunately it is an open hood

 

[m3d1c1n3man]

You would need more ice than a residential freezer could supply. Think about it. You'd be removing as much heat (freezing water) as your lamp puts out. About 2,000 BTU/hour. I doubt a freezer can do 1/10 that. Air cooled hoods are the way to go with HID.

i meant using the ice in conjunction with the ventilation, not to replace it. might help pick up some of the slack.