CoralGrower
Well-Known Member
I used FP for vegging and after the 6th week of flowering, I would switch to "grow". The Bloom did nothing except cause my fan leaves to yellow and fall off.
Dyna-Gro Bloom
- Thread starter LocknessMD
- Start date
i am using foliage pro on my grow right now and i am loving it. dyna grow is the shit. i have just switched to 12/12 and i am still using the foliage pro. are u guys reccomending that i use foliage pro throughout the entire grow? i was thinking of maybe mixing bloom and foliage pro to get healthy nitrogen levels. what do u guys think. by the way here is an interview with the owner of dyna gro. it is really informative. the owner seems like a really honest and intelligent person.
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
I have been growing with just the FP for a while now, i wouldn't grow any other way. doing a perpetual of multiple strains,It's easy to use the same barrel to mix my nutes for flower and veg. I feed every time at around 5-600 ppm's so they all get what they need to be healthy. Buds are always dense and plentiful.
BROBIE
Well-Known Member
Advanced Sensi Bloom works great for me in bloom. I had just the defects mentioned once and the Sensi revived the light green leaves as advertised. Would not recommend anything else of theirs though. Sensi has fulvic acid and a few other things in it so it will cost a bit more, but not much.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
That dyna-gro rep said what I've been saying for a while.
"I'm sure most of your viewers would be really surprised to find out that calcium is more important than phosphorous, but in fact in cannabis, calcium is typically more important than nitrogen and potassium COMBINED."
In making my own hydroponic formulas from salts, I've noticed the exact same thing. K:Ca:Mg ratio is more important than NPK ratio also, imo. K:Ca:Mg should be around 1:0.5:0.25
"I'm sure most of your viewers would be really surprised to find out that calcium is more important than phosphorous, but in fact in cannabis, calcium is typically more important than nitrogen and potassium COMBINED."
In making my own hydroponic formulas from salts, I've noticed the exact same thing. K:Ca:Mg ratio is more important than NPK ratio also, imo. K:Ca:Mg should be around 1:0.5:0.25
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~Dankster~420
Well-Known Member
Just to let everyone know I am conducting a vs test study of (MOAB) + GO lineup VS NFTG on this thread if anyone is interested. https://www.rollitup.org/p/10394346/
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Oh wow, this is very interesting. He says the number one factor contributing to flavor is sulfur.
I've thought that sulfur levels could be responsible for that skunky scent... This means you could add MgSO4 toward blooming to enhance flavors (maybe?). I wonder if this also means that using sulfurless formulas would reduce smell in stealth ops.
I know low-sulfer soil is used to grow a certain type of onions that don't make you cry.
Very interesting...
I've thought that sulfur levels could be responsible for that skunky scent... This means you could add MgSO4 toward blooming to enhance flavors (maybe?). I wonder if this also means that using sulfurless formulas would reduce smell in stealth ops.
I know low-sulfer soil is used to grow a certain type of onions that don't make you cry.
Very interesting...
Milovan
Well-Known Member
This is why I add a little bat guano with my bloom neuts every time I feed and I
get great results. So easy and perfect!
Btw, bloom has a higher count of P & K that plants need.
I stick with bloom for flower and I add a little N with it every feeding.
Super results everytime!
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
~Dankster~420
Well-Known Member
I've always heard that you feed extra Magnesium to make buds stinky. I read recently that Sulfur is the key to dank. Sulfur increases a certain terpene, it is because the particular terpene molecule contains Sulfur, or uses Sulfur in its metabolic pathway (needed to synthesize it). Or else Sulfur ISN'T involved in terpene production.
You could also look into sulfur's role in overall plant health.
Gypsum is a cheap way of supplying sulfur as well as calcium. So is Sul Po Mag if you want K and Mg also.
Here's a link
http://www.nutri-tech.com.au/blog/2010/05/starving-for-sulfur/
You could also look into sulfur's role in overall plant health.
Gypsum is a cheap way of supplying sulfur as well as calcium. So is Sul Po Mag if you want K and Mg also.
Here's a link
http://www.nutri-tech.com.au/blog/2010/05/starving-for-sulfur/
~Dankster~420
Well-Known Member
NICE FIND. 
Milovan
Well-Known Member
I noticed using higher levels of N during the flowering period kept my leaves green till
harvest thus a bigger better yield.
The OP in that post fails to address how/why higher levels of N inhibits flowering.
Then he goes on to say
"It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 that produce a lot of bud"
More N throughout the entire grow is what gave me an abundant amount of healthy leaves
all the way up to the day of harves.
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BROBIE
Well-Known Member
How is one to know the calcium and not the nitrogen contributed more as discussed in the audio interview? Calcium Nitrate is the main source of N in hydro - correct Church?
What would your outcome be if you used another source of N or did you? Interesting.
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churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Yes, there's a direct correlation between Ca and N in hydro formulations because the main source of N is usually calcium nitrate.
Potassium nitrate supplies more potassium than nitrate, so it can't really be used to boost nitrogen without boosting potassium more.
Nitric acid obviously would lower the pH unless you neutralized it with pH up (potassium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide which lands you back at potassium nitrate and calcium nitrate once neutralized).
Ammonium (NH4+) is no good in hydro formulations as it competes with K+. Nitrates (NO3-) compete with H2PO4-
Potassium nitrate supplies more potassium than nitrate, so it can't really be used to boost nitrogen without boosting potassium more.
Nitric acid obviously would lower the pH unless you neutralized it with pH up (potassium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide which lands you back at potassium nitrate and calcium nitrate once neutralized).
Ammonium (NH4+) is no good in hydro formulations as it competes with K+. Nitrates (NO3-) compete with H2PO4-
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Because of this correlation, it's hard to tell whether it's high N that's providing a benefit, or high Ca. The evidence would be whether low N hydro formulas cause yellowing associated with N deficiency or other problems.
Strocat
Well-Known Member
Dyna gro bloom is amazing stuff. I've only used their "bloom" .. I did an autoflower of nirvanas auto bubblelicious... I put it in fox farm ocean forest soil... 30 days later I started using dyna gro bloom at 1/4 tsp per gallon and slowly upped it to 1/2 tsp per gallon... Using ONLY dyna gro bloom and the organic nutrients already in FFOF I grew these nugs... You can use only dyna gro bloom and get nugs like this....
