stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Yes,indeed...
DiY LED - Cree CXA3070
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Lots of good input drom all sides thanks guys!
Regarding the kapton/thermal paste method vs COB holder, both methods have their ups and downs. If you prepare your heatsink properly (1000grit) and use a high quality thermal paste (thermal adhesive not necessary or recommended) you get the best thermal transfer possible. I put the paste on the back of the COB and place it on the heatsink, then press hard but carefully on the four corners and rub around slightly. Slowly the paste makes its way to the outer edges and as you keep pressure on it the paste gets thinner and thinner and creates a powerful vacuum effect. The COB holder would not allow for that, how do you know the paste has made an even, thin, bubble free layer? The kapton is only there to keep the COB from sliding sideways, not to keep pressure on the COB. This method also works great on 20mm stars.
Also, COB holders add cost/time to the build and if you decide to switch or combine 3070s 3590s and Vero29s, you have a mess of holes on your heatsink. I am constantly changing things around and it has served me very well not to drill my heatsink surfaces over the years. I have changed the position of my COBs already on several heatsinks when switching from active to passive cooling and I might switch back again.
The COB holder look awesome and avoids soldering which is very cool and for those who prefer them I say more power to you
Regarding the kapton/thermal paste method vs COB holder, both methods have their ups and downs. If you prepare your heatsink properly (1000grit) and use a high quality thermal paste (thermal adhesive not necessary or recommended) you get the best thermal transfer possible. I put the paste on the back of the COB and place it on the heatsink, then press hard but carefully on the four corners and rub around slightly. Slowly the paste makes its way to the outer edges and as you keep pressure on it the paste gets thinner and thinner and creates a powerful vacuum effect. The COB holder would not allow for that, how do you know the paste has made an even, thin, bubble free layer? The kapton is only there to keep the COB from sliding sideways, not to keep pressure on the COB. This method also works great on 20mm stars.
Also, COB holders add cost/time to the build and if you decide to switch or combine 3070s 3590s and Vero29s, you have a mess of holes on your heatsink. I am constantly changing things around and it has served me very well not to drill my heatsink surfaces over the years. I have changed the position of my COBs already on several heatsinks when switching from active to passive cooling and I might switch back again.
The COB holder look awesome and avoids soldering which is very cool and for those who prefer them I say more power to you
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SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
I only use North Atlantic kelp meal but soon the Fukushima cesium contaminated water will be swirling in the North Atlantic as well. I think I read that it would take about 6 years. I only use chicken manure from certified organic layers. Chicken manure from GMO fed industrial chickens may actually be worse than chem ferts I agree. I also collect fresh insectivorous bat guano from right outside my house (in the woods) and I collect composting worms and leaf litter from forest which has never been developed.
The same goes for the food I feed myself. I buy bulk organic hemp protein from Canada, organic sprouted protein (RAW Protein), Parry organic spirulina from India and local organic fruits and veggies whenever possible. I never drink tap water, luckily there is confined aquifer spring water nearby and I installed undersink R/O systems for drinking/cooking/final weeks for the ladies. Yes some of my food is contaminated but I still feel organic is a better bet than the pesticide laden food. I am sure some would disagree, we both have to place our bets and eat
How much more do food grade chem ferts cost than bulk greenhouse ferts?
The same goes for the food I feed myself. I buy bulk organic hemp protein from Canada, organic sprouted protein (RAW Protein), Parry organic spirulina from India and local organic fruits and veggies whenever possible. I never drink tap water, luckily there is confined aquifer spring water nearby and I installed undersink R/O systems for drinking/cooking/final weeks for the ladies. Yes some of my food is contaminated but I still feel organic is a better bet than the pesticide laden food. I am sure some would disagree, we both have to place our bets and eat
How much more do food grade chem ferts cost than bulk greenhouse ferts?
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churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I just can't understand this part. When did salts become pesticides? There is a 0% chance calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate, mono potassium phosphate, etc will have pesticides in them. I just can't understand how a pesticide would end up in raw salts as a by product.Yes some of my food is contaminated but I still feel organic is a better bet than the pesticide laden food. I am sure some would disagree, we both have to place our bets and eat
The MSDS wasn't good enough for agriculture grade? Humans get human salt. The plants aren't going to complain about a fly in their soup, or at least they better not..
Contaminants means dust, not lead.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
I am referring to conventionally produced crops that make up the ingredients in just about everything that fills the supermarket. Not only are they chemically fertilized but they are GMO in many cases and doused in pesticide/herbicide/fungicide regularly. Because people don't drop dead instantly from eating it, it is considered no problemo. Cancer rates are insane despite the willpower and money being thrown at it. I think it is 40% of all men will get cancer now, er maybe it was 60%.
I am not suggesting that food grade chem ferts are the answer, SDS made the point that food grade chem ferts were freer of contaminants than organic ferts. So I am asking what is the difference between the cost of agricultural chems vs versus food grade salt peter etc.
I am not suggesting that food grade chem ferts are the answer, SDS made the point that food grade chem ferts were freer of contaminants than organic ferts. So I am asking what is the difference between the cost of agricultural chems vs versus food grade salt peter etc.
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SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Upgraded the passive cooled room to 575W (dissipation) last night. Modified one older module by removing 8 XTEs and 3 XPE 630nm reds then added a CXA3070 3K AB in the middle of the heatsink. Big increase from 33% to 50% efficiency and it was a pretty quick modification. Most of the work is cleaning up the paste.
Kind of looks like someone has lost their marbles...But I am making much better use of my space and the improvement in yield has been very rewarding.
Also found out 3 of 4 Sin City Galactic Jack (Aliendog V2 X Sour Jack) are males, great smelling males though.
Kind of looks like someone has lost their marbles...But I am making much better use of my space and the improvement in yield has been very rewarding.
Also found out 3 of 4 Sin City Galactic Jack (Aliendog V2 X Sour Jack) are males, great smelling males though.
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Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Damn man tough luck on that. I hate when that happens. Just this run I struck out on a couple strains.
What current are you running the AB at for 50% efficiency? 700mA?
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Yessr the XTE/blue string that I replaced was running at 650mA so I just swapped the COB onto that circuit and moved the blues over to the red circuit which is also running at 650mA. I have a bunch of 650 and 700mA drivers but all the 900mA drivers are being used I need to wire up some more.
This mean that weed can uptake lead, arsenic, cobalt, and nickel?
I believe it uptakes heavy metals the easiest. I read somewhere that we could grow cannabis in radioactive areas to help get heavy metals out of the ground. I can't find the article but i'll post it when I do.
foreverflyhi
Well-Known Member
Yup, lots of articles on hemp beig able to uptake metals. Many many other plants can do the same as well.
Years back, I help start a garden right in downtown San Diego, but before we did, we got the soil tested and it tested very high in metals (construction, downtown waste), which made it not safe for food to be grown there. We prep the area, and planted sun flowers and other flowers heavly. Two years later and days upon days of prepping, the soil was safe enough to plant vegetables
happy to report the area is very very beautiful and produces food for homeless victims in downtown.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Since I have been increasing the light and canopy size, I grabbed a CO2 monitor to find out if I need CO2 supplementation. Upstairs air is 675, basement air (with incoming fresh air source) is 470. After sitting down there and trimming for an hour it was up to 530.
When the humidity rises outside I shut down the fresh air and recirculate the indoor air, and run the dehumidifier or AC. It will be interesting to see how low it drops without the fresh air. My plan is to use the central air blower to exchange the upstairs and downstairs air and see how high it jumps back up.
When the humidity rises outside I shut down the fresh air and recirculate the indoor air, and run the dehumidifier or AC. It will be interesting to see how low it drops without the fresh air. My plan is to use the central air blower to exchange the upstairs and downstairs air and see how high it jumps back up.
CaliWorthington
Well-Known Member
I guess you won't be running too many, and/or running them very soft. These things run fairly hot, as LED goes, in my experience.
CaliWorthington
Well-Known Member
Pet, I was thinking about installing a larger oscillating fan than the 12" currently in there. I'll grab a noisy 16". I think it's the open nature of the system, it heats the room up fast. It is summer though. In a few more days I'll cut to 12/12, just letting those plants recover from light deprivation a bit first.
