What's going on with these plants?

[MD914]

Def heat stress...do you have an intake fan? A small one would do wonders for you

 

[Hempowering]

Could she also use dry ice (solid CO2) to reduce the temperature and provide higher CO2 levels?

Dry ice kind of freaks me out!

Def heat stress...do you have an intake fan? A small one would do wonders for you

I've put a table fan next to an opening to blow air in.and across some ice packs to cool the air. The ice seems to be helping just a little, but it doesn't last long at all, it melts really fast. Luckily the weather seems to be changing and outside air will be cooling off.

Here is an update of photos from the past 24 hours.

 

[oilmaker68]

Dry ice kind of freaks me out!

I've put a table fan next to an opening to blow air in.and across some ice packs to cool the air. The ice seems to be helping just a little, but it doesn't last long at all, it melts really fast. Luckily the weather seems to be changing and outside air will be cooling off.

Here is an update of photos from the past 24 hours.

Ye the ice doesn't last long at all. The trick is to fit either a passive intake with ducting that sucks in air from a cool place or to fit a fan powered intake. But if it's hot outside it'll blow/sucks warm air in. Also fit the intake as low as possible and put your outtake as high as possible. Keeps as much electrical connections and ballasts outside your grow area. Cooltubes on hps/MH fittings are great too.

 

[MD914]

Dry ice kind of freaks me out!

I've put a table fan next to an opening to blow air in.and across some ice packs to cool the air. The ice seems to be helping just a little, but it doesn't last long at all, it melts really fast. Luckily the weather seems to be changing and outside air will be cooling off.

Here is an update of photos from the past 24 hours.

I believe it's easier to pull air rather than push...a small intake fan would probably do you better than a table fan...

 

[Greenhouse;save]

DIY air conditioning unit just add a 12v PC fan(or any fan cut hole to fit)to the top and fill with ice and off u go perfect for lowering temps with little expense.works for me mate wot soil r u using.i noticed u r using the biobizz range of nuites.

 

[Greenhouse;save]

I also noticed u r in scotland as I am weather's been fine but I also have been having to fight the temps hence the diy air con knocked it up in no time and works a treat....

 

[Hempowering]

Ye the ice doesn't last long at all. The trick is to fit either a passive intake with ducting that sucks in air from a cool place or to fit a fan powered intake. But if it's hot outside it'll blow/sucks warm air in. Also fit the intake as low as possible and put your outtake as high as possible. Keeps as much electrical connections and ballasts outside your grow area. Cooltubes on hps/MH fittings are great too.

I've been able to read that adding a bit of salt to the water before freezing it can actually also slow the melting process, although this is still a bit unclear to me.
The intakes are all placed pretty low, right around soil-level, and I have my ballast sitting outside my tent.
I am already using a cooltube, actually!

I believe it's easier to pull air rather than push...a small intake fan would probably do you better than a table fan...

I totally agree, at this point an intake is a necessity. As it is right now, if I take away the table fan the negative pressure gets a little out of hand.
I will definitely need an active intake.

DIY air conditioning unit just add a 12v PC fan(or any fan cut hole to fit)to the top and fill with ice and off u go perfect for lowering temps with little expense.works for me mate wot soil r u using.i noticed u r using the biobizz range of nuites.

I was thinking of attempting to craft something similar out of an old styrofoam box I have, that should slow the melting rate a little I guess.
I use normal potting soil mixed with perlite, and hydrocorrels top and bottom.

 

[oilmaker68]

I've been able to read that adding a bit of salt to the water before freezing it can actually also slow the melting process, although this is still a bit unclear to me.
The intakes are all placed pretty low, right around soil-level, and I have my ballast sitting outside my tent.
I am already using a cooltube, actually!



I totally agree, at this point an intake is a necessity. As it is right now, if I take away the table fan the negative pressure gets a little out of hand.
I will definitely need an active intake.



I was thinking of attempting to craft something similar out of an old styrofoam box I have, that should slow the melting rate a little I guess.
I use normal potting soil mixed with perlite, and hydrocorrels top and bottom.

Hydroton balls on top of your soil will prevent evaporation very effectively.

 

[cobyb]

I've been able to read that adding a bit of salt to the water before freezing it can actually also slow the melting process, although this is still a bit unclear to me.

http://antoine.frostburg.edu/chem/senese/101/solutions/faq/why-salt-cools-icewater.shtml

 

[Hempowering]

Hydroton balls on top of your soil will prevent evaporation very effectively.

Ah yeah, I am using those

http://antoine.frostburg.edu/chem/senese/101/solutions/faq/why-salt-cools-icewater.shtml

Hmm. I wonder what the salt to water ratio should be, then. Like how much per liter of water. I am going to have to look into this further. Thanks for the link!

 

[Hempowering]

Here's another photo update. The leaves seem to be turning a light green, what is causing that? Might I have fed them nutes too early? "Nute burn?" I could use a reply as soon as possible, pretty concerned over here Also, if it is being caused by the nutrients, should I flush the pot under a faucet in efforts to rinse the nutrients from the soil (if they can be?)

 

[Greenhouse;save]

Shouldn't b to much nuites although I'm not familiar with ur soil some of the more experienced guys will chime in and hopefully give u an idea but I does look like a deficiency..

 

[oilmaker68]

Light green could be lack of nitrogen, depends on what you've fed it. Is your water phd? If it's out it'll cause lockout. What's your feeding strength?

 

[oilmaker68]

Just had a look at your previous pics. I think you should stop feeding until you have six sets of leaves. I also think you should ley them dry out a bit. They are drooping like that because the soil/coco is too wet (I think youre using a soil type medium) if it's a hydro system then I'm out....

Don't water until the leaves are horizontal and then only add 10% of the volume of the pot.

Ph the water to 5.5 - 6.2 and see how you go for a few days sis*

 

[oilmaker68]

Just had a look at your previous pics. I think you should stop feeding until you have six sets of leaves. I also think you should ley them dry out a bit. They are drooping like that because the soil/coco is too wet (I think youre using a soil type medium) if it's a hydro system then I'm out....

Don't water until the leaves are horizontal and then only add 10% of the volume of the pot.

Ph the water to 5.5 - 6.2 and see how you go for a few days sis*

 

[Hempowering]

Light green could be lack of nitrogen, depends on what you've fed it. Is your water phd? If it's out it'll cause lockout. What's your feeding strength?

Just had a look at your previous pics. I think you should stop feeding until you have six sets of leaves. I also think you should ley them dry out a bit. They are drooping like that because the soil/coco is too wet (I think youre using a soil type medium) if it's a hydro system then I'm out....

Don't water until the leaves are horizontal and then only add 10% of the volume of the pot.

Ph the water to 5.5 - 6.2 and see how you go for a few days sis*

Thanks for the reply, mate The water (from the faucet) Ph is approximately 8 according to the testing kit. How is it possible to adjust the Ph of water? I tried to find out what to do to make water a different Ph but didn't find any information, maybe I am searching incorrectly. How is it done?

There are more than six sets of leaves. There are clusters of large leaves, and many new small ones that have formed. Do you suggest stopping feeding until those small leaf clusters are larger?

It is soil. 50% potting soil, 50% perlite with Hydrocorrels. I've noted down what you say about the watering, thank you

 

[Greenhouse;save]

U can buy ph up/down to combat the prob or if it's reading that high (water) then theirs also bottled water until u get some.aren't u up in my area Scotland ur water shouldn't b that high...

 

[oilmaker68]

Thanks for the reply, mate The water (from the faucet) Ph is approximately 8 according to the testing kit. How is it possible to adjust the Ph of water? I tried to find out what to do to make water a different Ph but didn't find any information, maybe I am searching incorrectly. How is it done?

There are more than six sets of leaves. There are clusters of large leaves, and many new small ones that have formed. Do you suggest stopping feeding until those small leaf clusters are larger?

It is soil. 50% potting soil, 50% perlite with Hydrocorrels. I've noted down what you say about the watering, thank you

Like Greenhouse said get some ph up and down and a good ph meter. Strips aren't accurate enough but they are better than nothing. If you use strips aim for a ph of 6. You're not gonna be far out. I don't feed my plants till there are six well developed sets of leaves (see my thread to see what I class as well developed, Marshydro led grow
..)

You're doing what every new grower does so don't worry.

 

[MD914]

Here's another photo update. The leaves seem to be turning a light green, what is causing that? Might I have fed them nutes too early? "Nute burn?" I could use a reply as soon as possible, pretty concerned over here Also, if it is being caused by the nutrients, should I flush the pot under a faucet in efforts to rinse the nutrients from the soil (if they can be?)

This is still heat stress...high temps can make it difficult for your plant to uptake the proper nutrients. Are you in organic soil?

 

[Hempowering]

Like Greenhouse said get some ph up and down and a good ph meter. Strips aren't accurate enough but they are better than nothing. If you use strips aim for a ph of 6. You're not gonna be far out. I don't feed my plants till there are six well developed sets of leaves (see my thread to see what I class as well developed, Marshydro led grow
..)

You're doing what every new grower does so don't worry.

The testing kit isn't a strip, it has a vial to fill with the water you want to test and a dropper that you add 2 drops. Then compare color the water turns with a spectrum on a card. Are they pretty much the same thing, as far as accuracy?

This is still heat stress...high temps can make it difficult for your plant to uptake the proper nutrients. Are you in organic soil?

Yes it is organic soil. Fortunately the temps have cooled off, though the yellow color in the leaves has lingered despite the better temperature. I fear it may be permanent damage. I am hoping it will go away if I withhold nutes for a little while and only give it half strength.