3 POUND GOAL (48 OZ) OR GREATER - 4 PLANTS ONE, 1000 WATT HPS SCROG

[BubbaGumpHemp]

before and after pictures day 12 vs. day 63

 

[Letstrip]

Those are so frosty dammmn

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

Those are so frosty dammmn

thank you! i think i will prob giver them the ax a week from saturday

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

maybe a little longer we'll see

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

Here is my training net, its filling up very nicely, almost full already. ready to go under the SCROG flower net soon as the others come out (may even take me 2 or 3 days to complete the harvest idk what im getting into)

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

Day 68 update
the bub here looking alright so far. think i might get in one more feeding this weekend before i start flushing. maybe longer i just need to wait and see what the trichs look like, im also going to cut another sample branch off latter this week to see how ii like the smoke and better judge the harvest date

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

Day 68

Here is the POG. i cant really say its POG because (and id love to hear other opinions of people who have grown it) it looks all OG to my eyes. looks like just strait up OG. the other two phenos i have at least one is def showing more signs of its purple wreck lineage. the other one just looks like this OG pheno did. im guessing the genetics are rather unstable and the OG is most likely the pheno you get most of the time with this strain

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

oh forgot to mention, the heat stress is getting under control with the cooler weather the past few days. notice how the POG leaves aren't cupped nearly as much as they were a few days ago?

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

heres a nug i snipped off just now to test in a few days after dry. i must say i am happier with the density than i have been in previous grows as well as the resin like i mentioned before

 

[JalapenoBuds]

Here was my sample from a couple days ago.

 

[chickenmarley]

Nice Scrog grow they look awesome. Can't wait to see the yield. Nice target for the yield but I think that seems ambitious. That's nearly 1.5 g per watt and that is crazy. Have seen people get just over a gram per watt though. Anyways awesome grow man, never got a chance to try og yet but always wanted to. Peace

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

Nice Scrog grow they look awesome. Can't wait to see the yield. Nice target for the yield but I think that seems ambitious. That's nearly 1.5 g per watt and that is crazy. Have seen people get just over a gram per watt though. Anyways awesome grow man, never got a chance to try og yet but always wanted to. Peace

hehe ambitious, perhaps, 1.5 is just what i need to see to make SCROG'ing worth it. 1.2-1.3 grams per watt is what i hit without, just growing xmas trees with a little bit of training. so i fiigure 2.5 lbs per 1000w without SCROG during the right time of year, i should be able to see over 3 lbs using a SCROG net the best i can figure.

anything over 16 OZ this harvest i will be happy with since i have never done SCROG before (20 OZ is kinda what i have in my head for this harvest. this next rip of all that POG is when im going to actually get serious about this. it will be my first fall crop and they are always much healthier that the hot summer crops. we shall see. i have every intention of completely maxing out my little 32 square foot canopy this winter, cant wait to see how ffar we can go!

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

View attachment 3228828 Here was my sample from a couple days ago.

look like u got a little heat burn like i did! what strain r u working with there?

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

i posted this in a different thread earlier today, we were discussing different fertilizer regiments in regards to the transition period between veg and flower and weather to flush or not. which happens to be the area i try to focus mostly on as its the most important phase IMO. like i said earlier in this journal i stop fertilizer 2 weeks before flower and rely on symbiosis with the microbes i use to get by on minimum N and in turn reduce node spacing, and in some cases density. Dr. Who enjoyed this i hope you will to heres the explanation as to why this counter intuitive technique works well for me




and yes my methods are a little different than most. after college i figured if u want to see something different u got to try something different, so i stepped out of my old "by the book" way of growing and haven't looked back since (i prefer going by the latest science). there is a lot of new research out there regarding the need for synthetic nitrogen. if you use a live culture of both aerobic and anaerobic microbes they are constantly decomposing elements into usable form for the plants. forgive me but this is going to get a little scientific here. to understand why and when the plant truly needs nitrogen u need a basic understanding of how N is converted to different forms.
the first step would be the conversion of atmospheric N (which is happening in your roots all the time) through a process called nitrogen fixation which is carried out by beneficial bacteria living in the root zone the (diazotrophs) combine hydrogen with nitrogen to produce ammonia (NH4) in a process called ammonification. this is important because the latest research has shown that when soils are lacking N these beneficial organisms will produce ammonia (which is converted to NO2 during nitrification by the oxidation of ammonium) in exchange for some carbohydrates. (another fascinating thing that is yet to be fully understood by the scientific community is the fact that the plant trades back some of the amino acids it produces back into the bacteria inorder to skip the whole process of ammonium assimilation process. however NO2 still cannot be used by the plant, this requires another step, yet again by the microbes you should be adding to your soil every month at least. once the nitrites (NO2) are converted by nitrifying bacteria into nitrates (NO3) which is important because nitrite is toxic to plants, the N can finally be assimilated by the plants roots mostly as nitrate ions. once in the plant the nitrate ions are converted into ammonium ions. the ammonium ions are the final product of this long and fascinating process. once the N has been assimilated into ammonium ions the ammonium is what the plant uses to build amino acids, chlorophyll and nucleic acids, which as you know are the fundamental building blocks to life. that's the basic logic behind why i am getting away with lower N levels in early flower/late veg. microbes microbes microbes. did i mention microbes? lol this is a little overly simplified. there is a lot more complexity to the exchange of amino acids between microbes and the plant but i don't feel like typing a whole thesis here atm. BTW i do have a degree in microbiology with a minor in descriptive inorganic chemistry, i have to say this little symbiotic relationship that goes on between microbe and plant is only just now beginning to be understood. its been a lot of fun putting all these theories and research to real life application in the cultivation of cannabis okay im done. just wanted to explain a bit of reasoning behind my madness. this transittion period is the part of the plant cycle that i have really been working hard to understand, as i believe it is the most critical point in the entire cycle for the best end result. yes N is very important however u can cut the added N way back in the transition. let the microbes do the fine tuning for u in transition and see your nodes get tighter and tighter
https://www.rollitup.org/t/3-pound-goal-48-oz-or-greater-4-plants-one-1000-watt-hps-scrog.836164/





↑
Nicely put there Bubba.!
Great posting, I enjoy the science you share. Your methods are, as I stated earlier, interesting!
And everyone should know that if it works for you.....It WORKS.
Thanks for sharing and I may just give your method a good old American try on a few with a side by side testing.
I sure don't have anything to loose by trying! (maybe some time and work, but I like to try out different things to "see" for myself).
There are things I will closely monitor when I do.
Trying is how we learn.

Grow on!


thank you Dr.! heck yeah thats what i always say! i love trying new techniques ive never tried or heard of science is my passion well i may like cannabis a little more but i am trying to put the latest scientific info i learn to use in a real life way. i always say the day i don't enjoy learning new things is they day i just need to give up. that technique takes some tinkering thats for sure! need to find the right live cultures to use in you region, grow room, media etc., as different ratios of different species in the culture will yield different results. the strain varies it a lot as well, i havent quite figured it out yet but there seems to be a big difference between incica and sativas in how they share proteins and molecules and how much they share. sativas from what ive seen so far, seem to react better than indicas when tampering with that delicate symbiosis. not to say it wont work in indicas by any means, i just havent dialed it in. i have Bubblicious (my more sativa strain) and OG18 X purple wreck (mostly OG indica pheno) the bubblicious responded very well to my little experiment. the POG went a little N deff early in bloom, resulted in super dense buds but the node spacing has def left something to be desired, it streched like CRAZY on me whereas the Bubblicious all tightened right up and turned out spectacular. this next crop i will have mostly POG growing since i feel like i have my Bubblicious mostly figured out now. im keeping fingers crossed it can go as well.
i have a bit of a theory as to why it doesn't work so well with indicas, mind you i have no proof or research to back up my thought process (i dont believe anybody has studied sybiosis of anyplants at altitude to my knowledge yet). indica is native to areas of a generally higher altitude, meaning that the air is thinner where they grow naturally. that makes me think that the plant does not rely as heavily on that symbiosis between microbes and plant as much since there is less N and less O to oxidize the ammonium into protein chains (amindo acids, clorophyl etc.). so it may just be a genetic pre-disposition of sativas to be able to manipulate growth by biological processes. idk i find it interesting to think about, but im just a science nerd lol im entertained by funny things like that

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

ok thats enough scientific gibberish for one day i apologize.

here an update, the result of that symbiosis i was talking about at day 69

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

question..... what do all of u do in regards to watering the last few weeks? i tend to let things go a little dry in between watering for a day. before the last few weeks i water fert water every other day its just enough to keep them slightly moist in between. at this point i let them go every 2 days and water. they get pretty dry but seems to me they like it.

please, tell me about your technique or if u let them get real dry or just slightly moist

 

[Letstrip]

i posted this in a different thread earlier today, we were discussing different fertilizer regiments in regards to the transition period between veg and flower and weather to flush or not. which happens to be the area i try to focus mostly on as its the most important phase IMO. like i said earlier in this journal i stop fertilizer 2 weeks before flower and rely on symbiosis with the microbes i use to get by on minimum N and in turn reduce node spacing, and in some cases density. Dr. Who enjoyed this i hope you will to heres the explanation as to why this counter intuitive technique works well for me




and yes my methods are a little different than most. after college i figured if u want to see something different u got to try something different, so i stepped out of my old "by the book" way of growing and haven't looked back since (i prefer going by the latest science). there is a lot of new research out there regarding the need for synthetic nitrogen. if you use a live culture of both aerobic and anaerobic microbes they are constantly decomposing elements into usable form for the plants. forgive me but this is going to get a little scientific here. to understand why and when the plant truly needs nitrogen u need a basic understanding of how N is converted to different forms.
the first step would be the conversion of atmospheric N (which is happening in your roots all the time) through a process called nitrogen fixation which is carried out by beneficial bacteria living in the root zone the (diazotrophs) combine hydrogen with nitrogen to produce ammonia (NH4) in a process called ammonification. this is important because the latest research has shown that when soils are lacking N these beneficial organisms will produce ammonia (which is converted to NO2 during nitrification by the oxidation of ammonium) in exchange for some carbohydrates. (another fascinating thing that is yet to be fully understood by the scientific community is the fact that the plant trades back some of the amino acids it produces back into the bacteria inorder to skip the whole process of ammonium assimilation process. however NO2 still cannot be used by the plant, this requires another step, yet again by the microbes you should be adding to your soil every month at least. once the nitrites (NO2) are converted by nitrifying bacteria into nitrates (NO3) which is important because nitrite is toxic to plants, the N can finally be assimilated by the plants roots mostly as nitrate ions. once in the plant the nitrate ions are converted into ammonium ions. the ammonium ions are the final product of this long and fascinating process. once the N has been assimilated into ammonium ions the ammonium is what the plant uses to build amino acids, chlorophyll and nucleic acids, which as you know are the fundamental building blocks to life. that's the basic logic behind why i am getting away with lower N levels in early flower/late veg. microbes microbes microbes. did i mention microbes? lol this is a little overly simplified. there is a lot more complexity to the exchange of amino acids between microbes and the plant but i don't feel like typing a whole thesis here atm. BTW i do have a degree in microbiology with a minor in descriptive inorganic chemistry, i have to say this little symbiotic relationship that goes on between microbe and plant is only just now beginning to be understood. its been a lot of fun putting all these theories and research to real life application in the cultivation of cannabis okay im done. just wanted to explain a bit of reasoning behind my madness. this transittion period is the part of the plant cycle that i have really been working hard to understand, as i believe it is the most critical point in the entire cycle for the best end result. yes N is very important however u can cut the added N way back in the transition. let the microbes do the fine tuning for u in transition and see your nodes get tighter and tighter
https://www.rollitup.org/t/3-pound-goal-48-oz-or-greater-4-plants-one-1000-watt-hps-scrog.836164/





↑
Nicely put there Bubba.!
Great posting, I enjoy the science you share. Your methods are, as I stated earlier, interesting!
And everyone should know that if it works for you.....It WORKS.
Thanks for sharing and I may just give your method a good old American try on a few with a side by side testing.
I sure don't have anything to loose by trying! (maybe some time and work, but I like to try out different things to "see" for myself).
There are things I will closely monitor when I do.
Trying is how we learn.

Grow on!


thank you Dr.! heck yeah thats what i always say! i love trying new techniques ive never tried or heard of science is my passion well i may like cannabis a little more but i am trying to put the latest scientific info i learn to use in a real life way. i always say the day i don't enjoy learning new things is they day i just need to give up. that technique takes some tinkering thats for sure! need to find the right live cultures to use in you region, grow room, media etc., as different ratios of different species in the culture will yield different results. the strain varies it a lot as well, i havent quite figured it out yet but there seems to be a big difference between incica and sativas in how they share proteins and molecules and how much they share. sativas from what ive seen so far, seem to react better than indicas when tampering with that delicate symbiosis. not to say it wont work in indicas by any means, i just havent dialed it in. i have Bubblicious (my more sativa strain) and OG18 X purple wreck (mostly OG indica pheno) the bubblicious responded very well to my little experiment. the POG went a little N deff early in bloom, resulted in super dense buds but the node spacing has def left something to be desired, it streched like CRAZY on me whereas the Bubblicious all tightened right up and turned out spectacular. this next crop i will have mostly POG growing since i feel like i have my Bubblicious mostly figured out now. im keeping fingers crossed it can go as well.
i have a bit of a theory as to why it doesn't work so well with indicas, mind you i have no proof or research to back up my thought process (i dont believe anybody has studied sybiosis of anyplants at altitude to my knowledge yet). indica is native to areas of a generally higher altitude, meaning that the air is thinner where they grow naturally. that makes me think that the plant does not rely as heavily on that symbiosis between microbes and plant as much since there is less N and less O to oxidize the ammonium into protein chains (amindo acids, clorophyl etc.). so it may just be a genetic pre-disposition of sativas to be able to manipulate growth by biological processes. idk i find it interesting to think about, but im just a science nerd lol im entertained by funny things like that

That was a read! A good one though. The science of how all this works is amazing and applying your knowledge to a passion like cannabis is great.
You may have already answered this but soil must play a roll in symbiosis and microbes? I heard someone say synthetic nutrients feed the plant were as organic nutrients feed the microbes then the plant then feeds of it? The No3? I know this could get complicated but you seem like the guy to ask Building a good soil must help?

 

[JalapenoBuds]

That strain is buzz light gear "to infinity and beyond". I have done pretty much everything wrong my first time around. Is normal

look like u got a little heat burn like i did! what strain r u working with there?

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

im glad you enjoyed the read, seems like everybody did. maybe ill do another write up and focus on P or K transpiration instead. yes your absolutely right you must find the right balance in your soil. good old fashioned homemade compost is very conducive to microbial life. ill be perfectly honest with you im not an organics expert (MD914 may be the person to ask about organic soil. i just use bagged stuff from the hydro store, don't have time to fool with my own soil mixes really and the bagged stuff seems to work great (pro mix) and i just started trying a brand called lucky dog???? i think its called fox farm makes it and it seems to work just as well or a little better than the pro mix.

as far as organics feeding the microbes and synthetics feed the plant, dont buy into that theory! there is nothing to support that claim scientifically. NO3 is NO3 and is assimilated through the roots just the same whether its from a natural source or artificial. the microbes i discussed will draw N straight out of the air, combine it with hydrogen and convert it through a series or processes to NO3 which is the usable form of N that a plant can use. NO3 is the nitrogen that u find in any fertilizer its immediately available to the plant.

some of the microbes will produce ammonia directly (which is oxidized into NO2 then to NO3) using carbohydrates directly from the plant as well as directly receiving amino acids from the plant. thats kind of like magic at the moment, nobody fully understands that particular process as of yet. see how microbe and plant scratch each others back? given that knowledge it makes perfect sense that you want to supplement carbs somehow to the plant, either molasses, sweet (what i use) or something of that nature. if your serious about all of this you can use some of the plants fluids in a sugar refractometer like farmers use for corn and monitor the plants sucrose production. i think i put a picture up of Great White its the live microbial dust that i find works best so far. it has many many different species both aerobic and anaerobic microbes. thrichoderma seems to be one of the more important ones to the process and this stuff has several types in it. i apply it every few weeks. i will also take a couple handfuls of dirt out of pots from my last harvest and mix it into the fresh soil. i do this because certain species thrive and others will die (natural selection in my pots lol) you will also get random microbes just from your own environment in there that u cant buy in a bottle so its kinda like mixing a petri dish into fresh soil or keeping a great yeast alive.

hope that explains a little better..... im all ears and here to serve if i can help out

 

[BubbaGumpHemp]

That strain is buzz light gear "to infinity and beyond". I have done pretty much everything wrong my first time around. Is normal

keep it up! making mistakes is what makes us better at our craft. lord knows ive had some really bad crops lol. im here to help out if u need anything