Gage Green Group Info Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.

racerboy71

bud bootlegger

Amos Otis

Well-Known Member
By the way, I'm sure you can figure out how a microwave works. It isn't complicated.
I have no doubt. I'm rather brainy. But I have no interest in the knowledge. Just the performance and results.

Same with my cars......my women.......and my weed. :weed:
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
I can understand tapering off the feeding the last week or so and finishing up with some plain water, but it makes no sense at all to me to dump 15 gallons of water in to a 5 gallon container (your definition of flushing) every time you water for the last 2 weeks. That simply isn't going to do anything to enhance the flavor, or smokeability of the weed.

As has already been mentioned by others.... get the drying down pat and your weed will smoke smooth.
There's different ways to flush you can do a 3x flush or you can do a water only for the last 2 weeks (leeching soil) type flush. You can also do a flush with flushing agent to 40% run off and it works well. I have done all 3 and prefer the 2 weeks of watering in organic, and the flushing agent in soilless.
 

King Arthur

Well-Known Member
There's different ways to flush you can do a 3x flush or you can do a water only for the last 2 weeks (leeching soil) type flush. You can also do a flush with flushing agent to 40% run off and it works well. I have done all 3 and prefer the 2 weeks of watering in organic, and the flushing agent in soilless.
Starving your plants sure brings out the best of them
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
There's different ways to flush you can do a 3x flush or you can do a water only for the last 2 weeks (leeching soil) type flush. You can also do a flush with flushing agent to 40% run off and it works well. I have done all 3 and prefer the 2 weeks of watering in organic, and the flushing agent in soilless.
Hey man, at the end of the day if it works for you then rock on. I see no harm in using plain water for the last bit of your grow. I pretty much use just water for my entire grow, so I can dig it.
 

King Arthur

Well-Known Member
^^member since Saturday not 1 posted grow log or anything I bet this guy really knows.
Dude you could be a member here for 10 years and still not know how to grow medicine. Not my fault you believe in fairy tales and not science. Racer posted the link to your facts, instead of us arguing I will give you some time to go catch up on your reading. I mean you have been here for a while you should know this already.

Sorry I offended you, go get your lesson on.

[ Also you can see my nug shots in the smoke report section under Godfather Kush. Stop making yourself look so ignorant. ]
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Hey man, at the end of the day if it works for you then rock on. I see no harm in using plain water for the last bit of your grow. I pretty much use just water for my entire grow, so I can dig it.
Same here, I have a water only (teas too I do bat guano and vermi-t) and I also have a semi-organic coco-coir grow that is flushed with a flushing agent at the end of flower to remove salts and nutrient build up.
 

genuity

Well-Known Member
Hey man, at the end of the day if it works for you then rock on. I see no harm in using plain water for the last bit of your grow. I pretty much use just water for my entire grow, so I can dig it.
I was just about to say something along these lines....

People (me) grow using only water the whole grow,so water only the last two weeks of a synthetic grow,what harm is that going to cause..

Now 5x water to a pot size is bullshit...IMO
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
and this


Nutrient uptake by plants.

Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen come from the air and water. Soil is the principle source of other nutrients.
Primary nutrients
(nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) are used in relatively large amounts by plants, and often are supplemented as fertilizers.

Secondary nutrients (calcium, magnesium, and sulfur) are also used in large amounts but are typically readily available and in adequate supply.
Micronutrients
or trace elements are needed only in small amounts. These include iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine.

Essential Plant Nutrients



Roots take up nutrients primarily as ions dissolved in the soil’s water. The ions may be positively charged (cations) or negatively charged (anions). The nutrient ion soup in the soil’s water is in a constant state of flux as the variety of ions dissolve in and precipitate out of solution.

Humus, clay particles and organic matter in the soil are negatively charged, attracting the positively charged cations (like ammonium, NH4+, and potassium, K+) and making the cations resistant to leaching. Negatively charged anions (like nitrate, N03-) are prone to leaching and can become a water pollution problem. Both ammonium and nitrate are important plant nitrogen sources and are commonly found in salt forms in fertilizers.

The Cation Exchange Capacity, CEC,is a measurement of the soil’s capacity to hold cation nutrients. More precisely, it is a measurement of the capacity of the negatively charged clay and organic matter to attract and hold positively charged cations. CEC is useful in comparing the potential for different soils to hold and supply nutrients for plant growth.Foliar absorption of mineral nutrients by above ground plant parts including leaves stems and flowers have been reported for over 200 years. Interest however has been mainly since the 1950's. this interest has grown over the years because of the increased costs of fertilizers, environmental concerns about leaching and runoff, a better understanding of how to facilitate the absorption process and a better understanding of plant growth. Minor element deficiencies in fruit have been corrected by foliar applications for 80 to 90 years. More recently over the last 40 years or so, foliar absorption of the macronutrients has also been studied extensively. It is now known that not only nutrients can be absorbed but also pesticides, growth regulators, organic acids and many carbohydrates.
Among the advantages to foliar absorbed nutrients include the fact that they can be rapid and effective, with quick plant response. Because they are so effective they require less fertilizer input by avoiding soil fixation, leaching and runoff. They are applied to the leaf blade and allowed to remain there until fully absorbed. You do not water in. Today we have the knowledge of how plants grow in order to make the most effective use of this technique. Other advantages revolve around the fact that they are effective when the turf has a restricted root system from such things as being closely mowed, periods of environmental stress, seasonal root loss, periods of low photosynthetic output and correspondingly low carbohydrate reserve.

Some nutrients become fixed in the soil and results in low efficiency as a root absorbed nutrients. Foliar applications of nutrients as a supplementary fertilizer are highly effective. Factors affecting foliar absorption.

Several factors will affect foliar absorption include relative humidity, temperature, pH of the nutrient solution, variety of the turf, age of the leaf, concentration of the nutrient solution, difference in the nutrient compounds(formulations) use of surfactants and the addition of non-nutrient facilitating or carrier-mediated agents.

Humidity and temperature have a direct relationship with absorption of nutrients and as they increase, penetration also increases. The total amount of time the nutrient is in contact with the leaf is critical. Optimum pH is a factor that varies from nutrient to nutrient and most good formulators recognize the need to have optimum pH for the nutrient used.

Many chemical compounds are ineffective as foliar nutrients. For example Shafer and Reed studied a total of 31 organic and inorganic potassium compounds for their efficacy as a foliar fertilizer. Their results showed a broad spectrum in foliar absorption of potassium from both organic and inorganic carriers. Studies from other researchers on many other nutrient compounds show similar results.

Modern Foliars

The effectiveness of modern foliar fertilizers varies significantly and is directly proportional to the quality of the product. Using both organic and inorganic facilitating agents to transport the cations into and throughout the plants has become a very exact science. Harvest Grow uses only the finest colloids in the form of Humates and Kelp nutrients to achieve the best results. The process of building excellent foliar fertilizers is an exacting and complex one.

Many humic and organic materials have the capacity to bind substantial amounts of metals and other cations, and they can therefore exert considerable control over the supply and availability of nutrient elements to plants and in water.

When the metal ion combines with an electron donor, the resulting substance is said to be a complex or coordination compound. If the donor atoms are attached not only to the metal ion but also to each other as well forming a ring, it creates a chelate.

There are good complexes and bad complexes and there are good and bad chelates. Some of the good organic agents used in these products are: humic acids from many sources, fulvic acids, ligno sulfates, amino acids, sugars and carbohydrates and hydrolyzed protein mixes. Harvest Grow nutrients are biodegradable and available to the plant and the soil micro community as a significant energy source.

Synthetic chelates are used extensively in many agriculture and turf products. Some researchers have reported that they may remain as a residue in the plant tissue or in the soil tying up other nutrients and they provide no additional energy source. Harvest Grow uses organic chelates keeping them available and biodegradable.Mobility
Absorption is only one aspect of a foliar fertilizer. In addition, the absorbed nutrient generally must be trans located throughout the plant. While absorption is a key process in selecting a foliar applied nutrient, the extent of redistribution or mobility of each nutrient in the plant is an important consideration also.

Buyer Beware

There is little regulation over the complexing and chelate foliar industry:
  • The presence of an organic or synthetic chelating agent in the formulation legally makes the product a chelate regardless of how much is in the mix.
  • It does not matter whether there is enough chelating agent in the mixture to chelate all the metals in the formulation or not to be considered a chelate.
  • Any agent that can be shown to cause chelation is considered a chelate, without regard to whether it is stable or not.
  • Unstable chelates that precipitate when mixed with anions, such as phosphorous, are poorly absorbed by the plants and do not translocate well in the plant.
  • The concentration of these complexing and chelating agents in the various formulations need not be on the label.
The best chelating agents are those that are natural components found in the metabolism of the plant and they should compose a high concentration within the formulation.

In his thesis for his PH. D. degree from Michigan State University in 1956 H.B. Tukey Jr. researched Nutritional Foliar Sprays. He made this observation:

"Foliar fertilizers produce quick, visible results and can increase the effectiveness of fertilizer applications to the soil, reducing total amounts of fertilizer applied."

He showed that it works like this:
In photosynthesis; sunlight, carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, water and nutrients, along with chlorophyll in the leaf, combine to produce carbohydrates for plant growth and health. The nutrients in the soil are soluble in the ground water and enter the plant with the water through the membrane of the roots and are carried up the xylem tissue and distributed throughout the leaf where the carbohydrates are produced. The carbohydrates are then distributed throughout the plant and carried by the phloem to the root for storage.

When we apply foliar fertilizer containing the proper nutrients for photosynthesis directly to the leaf, the plant begins to produce more carbohydrates and in the process requires more water. The stomata on the leaf open allowing water vapor to escape, which reduces the water pressure in the xylem tissue allowing more water to flow up the vascular bundle. In turn more water is absorbed into the roots to replace the water moving up. If good nutrition is available in the soil surrounding the root, extra nutrients enter the plan with the water.

If you visualize the plant as a water pump, the foliar fertilizer acts as a primer, priming the pump and bringing more nutrition into the plant.

It is important to remember that the foliar fertilizer actually increases the total uptake of nutrients by several folds over the small amount of foliar fertilizer applied. Harvest Grow products effectively enhance nutrient uptake by the plant, .
Harvest Grow uses natural chelates to enhance nutrient uptake and nutritional value capability of the plant.
http://harvestgrow.com/feedtheplant.html
 

purplelicious

Well-Known Member
I use a ton of different growing techniques. This room is full mix of ATF,blue magoo,plushberry,headband 707 and cookies x bubba kush with one each of purple paralyzer,raspberry kush,critical kush, purple kosher strawberry banana, sweet cream mandarin. I can't wait to get some good ggg genetics in the garden!
 

Attachments

purplelicious

Well-Known Member
One that shall live on here at the Ponderosa....it's just so simple once you learn how.

I guess rock wool is not a fad......:?:
No sir rock wool is here to stay. maybe dwc is too but it fails for the most part unless you can check your plants every couple hours just in case a pump failed or something is wrong.Maybe have them on video so can can look at them all the time but what if something happened and you were a few hours away and all you could do was watch your plants wilt lol. Too many undesirable variables in dwc is my 2 cents.
 

Amos Otis

Well-Known Member
No sir rock wool is here to stay. maybe dwc is too but it fails for the most part unless you can check your plants every couple hours just in case a pump failed or something is wrong.Maybe have them on video so can can look at them all the time but...........
Wow.......are you serious? You got to chill out, amigo.

I look in on them once a day - not out of fear and freakin' out - but because I enjoy the hobby.

In 5+ years, I've never had a pump fail, and still use the originals. I have had an air stone fail. Once. Dropped another in. Plant continued undeterred.

Nearly freaked me out.
[ just kidding ]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top