Another Cree CXA3070 DIY Thread

CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
My Arctic11s come with the stock thermal paste (a little grey square). Having read @SupraSPL 's exploits in the realms of "to sand or not to sand?" I wonder whether it is worth removing this and replacing with Céramique paste?

Experience is always welcome :)
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
Back there in Post 481 - majins posted pictures of his DIY LED light. He oughta move the driver some other place. The way he's got it strapped across the fins it's blocking the exhaust heat.
 

majins

Well-Known Member
The drivers are attached like that so they get some cooling as well.
My fans are set up as suck air though the cooler instead of blow into the cooler.

Not that I even need active cooling. Having the fans unplugged temps max out at 43C for the T junction, 30C for the driver.
Having fans running T junction temp maxes out 32C and driver runs at ambient temp.

Temp probe is fitted by taking a very small drill and drilling down from top of the heat sink in the space between where the heat pipes are.
Leaving 0.6-0.8mm of copper left in the base so the hole doesnt go all the way though. Then probe inserted with some thermal compound for a tight fit.
Driver temps taken with just a IR thermometer.

Mine are only running at 25-30W
 

happy75

Well-Known Member
My Arctic11s come with the stock thermal paste (a little grey square). Having read @SupraSPL 's exploits in the realms of "to sand or not to sand?" I wonder whether it is worth removing this and replacing with Céramique paste?

Experience is always welcome :)
I use also the Artic 11's, now for a few monts. I heave read that it was not necessary to remove and to sand the surface, because you won't gain very much.
 

happy75

Well-Known Member
Sorry I missed this till now. Going with top bin white COB's doesn't affect flower time but increased my yields dramatically,using 730 nm and increasing the light schedule has seemed to shorten flower times for me as much as a week.
Hi Cap. Last run I used the 730nm from about week 2 flowering, 7 minutes after lights out with 13.5/9.5 hours, I experienced no faster flowering but a larger harvest. I have 2x epistar 10 watts 730nm in my flowerroom of 55 square feet. I have been thinking last couple of days what went wrong. Wrong chinese led maybe, I have no clue. Did you always experienced shorter flowering?
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
I use also the Artic 11's, now for a few monts. I heave read that it was not necessary to remove and to sand the surface, because you won't gain very much.
I think Supra said that and I'm sure it's true but it only takes me like 15 minutes each so I'll keep doing it.


Hi Cap. Last run I used the 730nm from about week 2 flowering, 7 minutes after lights out with 13.5/9.5 hours, I experienced no faster flowering but a larger harvest. I have 2x epistar 10 watts 730nm in my flowerroom of 55 square feet. I have been thinking last couple of days what went wrong. Wrong chinese led maybe, I have no clue. Did you always experienced shorter flowering?
I use 730 at 12/12 for the first 2 to 3 weeks then go to 13.5/10.5 so that might be the difference,it stretches more but I think it speeds up the on set of flower,some strains show pistils in 3 to 5 days. I originally started using 730 to increase my yields and not to shorten flower time. At 13.5/10.5 the plants are receiving 12.5% more energy to grow with.
 

majins

Well-Known Member
So iv given it another go to get the Cree 3070 running at better output.
Picked up two LPC60-1400 to replace the drivers I was using.

From the wall its now pulling 58-60W.
But watching the base of the heat sink there seems to be a very small puff of smoke every now and again. I have had it on for a hour, Checked temp 49C in the heat sink base. 44C in the driver.
Switched it off and visually inspected the cob and there doesnt seem to be any burnt out parts. Just 1 small brownish dot which has always been there.


Do I need to use a current limiter resistor or anything?
On the old driver it did this but just for the first few secs. Where it seems to be doing it every 40-50 secs for a hour so far before I switched it off.


-----


Sorted.
Pulled the cob off and it had made a little track though the thermal compound, Looks to have been cooking some of it since there is a concave section on the back of it.
New thicker thermal compound and its sweet.
 
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Metacanna

Well-Known Member
Hello all,

I might have skipped on something, after reading almost the whole discussion I still not sure what's the difference between CXA3070 Z4 and AB. Could you enlighten me?
captainmorgan, could you tell how much did the 2 critical kush yielded?
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
Hello all,

I might have skipped on something, after reading almost the whole discussion I still not sure what's the difference between CXA3070 Z4 and AB. Could you enlighten me?
captainmorgan, could you tell how much did the 2 critical kush yielded?

Z4 and AB are the bins,when I got mine the Z4 was the top bin then they added the AB. AB would be a little more efficient than the Z4.
If the yield is not in the thread I'm not sure,don't think I've ever gotten under 1.2 g/w with the CXAs.
 

Metacanna

Well-Known Member
Z4 and AB are the bins,when I got mine the Z4 was the top bin then they added the AB. AB would be a little more efficient than the Z4.
If the yield is not in the thread I'm not sure,don't think I've ever gotten under 1.2 g/w with the CXAs.
I was curious about that particular grow as the flowering in the two critical kush was looking even more successful than your previous grow, you never posted the final result, but I will assume it was close to 1.5g/w, fantastic.
Once the AB bin is introduced I suppose the Z4 was discontinued? I found both on Ebay with the same price, got me confused...
 
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