Led build~ 2' heatsink 200w
- Thread starter Positivity
- Start date
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Hey pos, Have you ran a fan off one for those drivers yet. To me it seems that it have a 50ma capacity? I could be mis interpreting the data sheet.
The setup is looking clean. The cover with a fan centered will force the heat right out the sides, perfect.
The setup is looking clean. The cover with a fan centered will force the heat right out the sides, perfect.
the dopest
Well-Known Member
The solid one looks like it would work best if you cut the hole for the fan in the center. The perforated one would probably work better if you don't want a fan hole there.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Rapid led might not like this..Just floating a few ideas around..
Kinda like this one..bend a top cover. Had a 12" x 24" sheet aluminum laying around. Was going to cut out reflectors but changed my mind and never used it. How easy is that...stick a sheet in one end bend it into the other end and press down....lol
The sheet one looks like a rapid onyx a little and the perforated looks a bit like the osram...
Actually kinda like the solid sheet. Maybe I'll call her the silver bullet
View attachment 3413271 View attachment 3413270
Positivity
Well-Known Member
F@ck...lol. Lucky you said something, I went and hooked things up to check
Thats what happens when I don't read the specs thoroughly. Doesn't run on 120v...200-240vac. I wasn't too worried about the fans not running but this is a buzzkill. Such a nice driver otherwise. Thats the biggest driver mistake i've made yet. Guess I'll put them on the side for now, bummer
Somewhere a star and god is smiling...
. WTF, a 60w driver that won't run on 120v.Oh well, back to the 700ma driver. Either that or I go back to driver shopping
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Alrighty then. Drivers on order, will keep it low voltage, try something different. Save those other drivers for an eventual 240v upgrade, it'll give me some motivation to get that done.
Got the 4" x 4" aluminum plate secured with the t-slot screw and nut system. Drilling thru 1/4" plate can be done with a hand drill but it is challenging to say the least. I used a small bench drill, good investment for anyone who thinks they will make a few lights. Under a $100 and its useful for much more than just lights. 5/32 drill bit used to give the 4-40 screw a little wiggle room and make centering easier.
Thermal paste will go between the plate and sink. An alternative to this would be a smaller 3" x 3" or so plate that would use less TIM. You could simply thermal adhesive it in place. My experience with thermal adhesive is it it holds very strong but a good hit with a hammer and it'll come off. A decent option..
Also notice the ledil clamp and wire holder. I'll be drilling thru the heatsink to route wires more cleanly but this is a good option if your limited to a hand drill. Just use the t-slot to add a wire holder with some sheathing to protect the wire from abrasion. If theres no t-slot than tap a hole or drill and self tapping screw. Get those wires held down tight and free of abrasion.
And the underside of the ledil CXA clamp. No wire quick connects, just a square slot to hold it firmly. Small openings for the wire to snake out the sides.
Thats it for now..slow and steady.
Got the 4" x 4" aluminum plate secured with the t-slot screw and nut system. Drilling thru 1/4" plate can be done with a hand drill but it is challenging to say the least. I used a small bench drill, good investment for anyone who thinks they will make a few lights. Under a $100 and its useful for much more than just lights. 5/32 drill bit used to give the 4-40 screw a little wiggle room and make centering easier.
Thermal paste will go between the plate and sink. An alternative to this would be a smaller 3" x 3" or so plate that would use less TIM. You could simply thermal adhesive it in place. My experience with thermal adhesive is it it holds very strong but a good hit with a hammer and it'll come off. A decent option..
Also notice the ledil clamp and wire holder. I'll be drilling thru the heatsink to route wires more cleanly but this is a good option if your limited to a hand drill. Just use the t-slot to add a wire holder with some sheathing to protect the wire from abrasion. If theres no t-slot than tap a hole or drill and self tapping screw. Get those wires held down tight and free of abrasion.
And the underside of the ledil CXA clamp. No wire quick connects, just a square slot to hold it firmly. Small openings for the wire to snake out the sides.
Thats it for now..slow and steady.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
What is that black cover on the red wire.
I see vero has 4 screw holes and vero clamp has only 2. Are you going to use only 2 screws.
What ledil reflector do you plan to use. I think only Angelina and angelica series is compatible with this clamp.
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Its a wire sheath to protect the wiring. If you look in most prebuilt lights they will have them, even in enclosed lights. I just think its a good idea, especially when running wires over the heatsink. The edges where heatsinks are cut are usually pretty sharp, not like they are bullnosed with a nice smooth edge.
I usually get them from here, i'm sure there are other places..
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Wire_c12.htm
As far as i know the ledil clamp will only fit the angelina reflectors. Just two screws... I chose this just to have a one piece reflector holder versus the 2 piece ideal system. Need to be careful with the angelina reflectors also, they have a few different attachment types and won't all work together. Its a good idea to just buy single pieces to make sure they will work together.
Last edited:
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Looking good POS!
Another place to get shrink tubing and wire wrap cheap, 25 feet for $10. They may give a discount via direct email sales
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Flexo-F6-Braided-Cable-Sleeving-Wrap-Split-Loom-Techflex-F6N0-25BK-/350999178330?var=&vxp=mtr&hash=item9069801b71
Another place to get shrink tubing and wire wrap cheap, 25 feet for $10. They may give a discount via direct email sales
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Flexo-F6-Braided-Cable-Sleeving-Wrap-Split-Loom-Techflex-F6N0-25BK-/350999178330?var=&vxp=mtr&hash=item9069801b71
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Most of their stuff has very narrow beam angle. This is a petite little reflector you can try. Let me know what u end up using
Mouser #:928-F13838ANGELINAXW
Mfr. #:F13838_ANGELINA-XW
Positivity
Well-Known Member
I'll be using the angelina f13838...90 degrees. Widest angle that will fit the holder. In case anyones thinking of ordering the f13839 made for the 3070 it will only fit aag stucchi holders. The 838 made for 3590s has the right mounting points, and fits both 3070 and 3590...
. Same reflector different mounts
testiclees
Well-Known Member
pos, as you are deciding on how hard to drive the cobs do you have light distribution in mind when it comes to planning which reflector to use? For example are you calculating the optimal distance to canopy with a particular driver and then employing reflectors that provide the correct spread for your footprint?
I am following along closely as im planning a very similar diy to cover a 2x4 space. im leaning towards 15"x40" sink w 10 x vero 29s @700 or 1070mA. I was thinking to leave tbe cobs bare. Is there any tools to model coverage with varying intensities and distances.
Please feel free to clarify the concepts if need be. i am completely new to led diy.
many thanks.
I am following along closely as im planning a very similar diy to cover a 2x4 space. im leaning towards 15"x40" sink w 10 x vero 29s @700 or 1070mA. I was thinking to leave tbe cobs bare. Is there any tools to model coverage with varying intensities and distances.
Please feel free to clarify the concepts if need be. i am completely new to led diy.
many thanks.
Last edited:
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Check out supras reflector thread.. About page 4 sds has some nice links to computer modeling programs for reflectors
Sounds like you have a good idea already. Just use a heatsink that will spread the cobs as much as possible and possibly use reflectors to increase the intensity.
Most of my lights are just really adjustable. Low power and up close or high power and held high.. Reflectors go on and off as I need them, power up and down as I need. Not really designed for one particular area..
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Got a little done..need some little self tapping machine screws to hold the wire clips and 12v psu. Just screw right into the sheet, holds secure enough for me.
Used tin snips to cut a pice of zinc plated sheet metal. Cuts pretty easy just a little hard to go perfectly straight, but it gets it done easily. Zinc plated was weathering well in the hardware store so I left it bare for now. It was only $7 versus the aluminum for $20.
Plates in position, just needs a little thermal paste
Tapped a few screws so the sheet can screw right in. Could probably again just drill and self tapping screw with a similar result.
Need a new hole saw, it was giving me a hell of a time. Usually goes much smoother. Few scrapes but it will still get the job done
Everything screwed down with self tapping screws. 3 meanwell lpf-60d-42 1.4a drivers, 1 lpf-25d-24 1a for the red channel, and a noctua industrial I had from a earlier design that changed.
Everything fits under the silver bullet...
So, another day I'll get to the rest. Wiring, feet, hangers, and that should about do it
Just some design ideas...far from perfect..
Used tin snips to cut a pice of zinc plated sheet metal. Cuts pretty easy just a little hard to go perfectly straight, but it gets it done easily. Zinc plated was weathering well in the hardware store so I left it bare for now. It was only $7 versus the aluminum for $20.
Plates in position, just needs a little thermal paste
Tapped a few screws so the sheet can screw right in. Could probably again just drill and self tapping screw with a similar result.
Need a new hole saw, it was giving me a hell of a time. Usually goes much smoother. Few scrapes but it will still get the job done
Everything screwed down with self tapping screws. 3 meanwell lpf-60d-42 1.4a drivers, 1 lpf-25d-24 1a for the red channel, and a noctua industrial I had from a earlier design that changed.
Everything fits under the silver bullet...
So, another day I'll get to the rest. Wiring, feet, hangers, and that should about do it
Just some design ideas...far from perfect..
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Asking again just incase you missed it last time.
'I see vero has 4 screw holes and vero clamp has only 2. Are you going to use only 2 screws.'
Might be too complicated for a DIY. I saw an indoor light recently in a building and it had power supply in a metal mesh like cage connected on one side of the light. Something like this to conceal the power supply and yet provide good airflow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400622418595
'I see vero has 4 screw holes and vero clamp has only 2. Are you going to use only 2 screws.'
Might be too complicated for a DIY. I saw an indoor light recently in a building and it had power supply in a metal mesh like cage connected on one side of the light. Something like this to conceal the power supply and yet provide good airflow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400622418595
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure a rigid holder only needs 2 screws to provide even pressure over the cob, shouldn't be a problem..Asking again just incase you missed it last time.
'I see vero has 4 screw holes and vero clamp has only 2. Are you going to use only 2 screws.'
Might be too complicated for a DIY. I saw an indoor light recently in a building and it had power supply in a metal mesh like cage connected on one side of the light. Something like this to conceal the power supply and yet provide good airflow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400622418595
I posted a pic earlier of a perforated sheet option as a cover instead of solid sheet. It would work, and is just as easy to bend a cover, but I prefer the solid sheet. There should be quite a bit of airflow coming through the side openings and leaving through the heatsink fins. Much more airflow then say a recessed lighting in a home where the driver is in the attic...
But this is all early...i have lots of options in mind for extra venting if necessary. I'll wait until i turn it on and put my thermocouple on a few places to see what temps things are running at. This is a big heatsink for 200w so I'm not expecting much heat issues..
Last edited:
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Slight delay, project is undergoing design chaos
Theres room for my arduino...
. Plugged it in and I'm liking the features, realllly liking them. This darn thing even has temp readings built in the software. Won't be using that, but I will be attempting to get everything dimmed by this little puter'. Deep red, white, and far red..maybe a little uv
Heres where I'm at, I'll go through the details a bit later. You could have pretty much stopped at my last photo and wired up a few cobs and been done with it. I was originally going to just drill a hole in the cover with a nice little grommet for the power cord. But....decided to use my fused, filtered, and switched c14 ac inlet. So anyway...shouldn't take much longer. 200w gon' overkill...
Theres room for my arduino...
. Plugged it in and I'm liking the features, realllly liking them. This darn thing even has temp readings built in the software. Won't be using that, but I will be attempting to get everything dimmed by this little puter'. Deep red, white, and far red..maybe a little uvHeres where I'm at, I'll go through the details a bit later. You could have pretty much stopped at my last photo and wired up a few cobs and been done with it. I was originally going to just drill a hole in the cover with a nice little grommet for the power cord. But....decided to use my fused, filtered, and switched c14 ac inlet. So anyway...shouldn't take much longer. 200w gon' overkill...
Last edited: